|
beep-beep car is go posted:It's too old to be floating, so I assume they're nailed into the subflooring. OK, well have a look for the nails, you should see them running in parallel lines, perpendicular to the direction of the boards. That's your line for screws.
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2019 19:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 22:20 |
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:OK, well have a look for the nails, you should see them running in parallel lines, perpendicular to the direction of the boards. That's your line for screws. I'll get down with a flashlight, but it's tongue and groove flooring so I assume it's toenailed into the tongue. I'll check though, maybe I can infer location based on context clues.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2019 19:56
|
|
|
It's even possible that it's nailed into your subfloor and your subfloor is screwed into the joists, or that actually it's not nailed down at all. Sorry, I was envisioning more of a classic "length of wood" floorboard when you said it was too old to be floating (which really just means not nailed down).
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2019 20:32
|
|
|
Hubis posted:I dunno, I think not having a bathroom fan is still preferrable to blowing hot moist air straight into your insulation AND a giant loving hole in your roof. Seriously, WTF. True, but I mean in terms of fixing the issue, all you need is some duct work and the damper/vent for the roof (and then pray the excess moisture didn't cause any long term problems.) I've got to fish some romex up into the attic (all the electrical for the house comes from the basement,) cut a hole in my bathroom ceiling and roof (or wall/siding if I decide to go horizontal,) wire it up, etc... And it's NOT a good attic, not meant for crawling around in.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2019 20:41
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:It's even possible that it's nailed into your subfloor and your subfloor is screwed into the joists, or that actually it's not nailed down at all. Sorry, I was envisioning more of a classic "length of wood" floorboard when you said it was too old to be floating (which really just means not nailed down). No worries, I'll figure it out.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2019 21:13
|
|
|
The stupid fucks who used to own our house didn't insulate the cold water pipes to the bathroom. At least, I'm pretty sure that's the reason for gradual water accumulation in our ceiling. Now I've gotta fix the ceiling and rip out the bathroom floor to insulate the pipes. loving hell.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 02:43
|
|
|
Nevvy Z posted:The stupid fucks who used to own our house didn't insulate the cold water pipes to the bathroom. At least, I'm pretty sure that's the reason for gradual water accumulation in our ceiling. Now I've gotta fix the ceiling and rip out the bathroom floor to insulate the pipes. loving hell. I have never seen insulation on cold water pipes.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 14:40
|
|
Nevvy Z posted:The stupid fucks who used to own our house didn't insulate the cold water pipes to the bathroom. At least, I'm pretty sure that's the reason for gradual water accumulation in our ceiling. Now I've gotta fix the ceiling and rip out the bathroom floor to insulate the pipes. loving hell. I have to run a dehumidifier on specially bad days (~20 days this year) to keep the water pipes in the basement ceiling and around the water softener etc from sweating like crazy. But, that alone is sufficient, and it also helps with the comfort of the house on those days (typically when its >80F and 80% humidity).
|
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 14:48
|
|
|
PremiumSupport posted:I have never seen insulation on cold water pipes. Same.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 15:22
|
|
|
I don’t want to spend $15k on a new driveway, but this spot is particularly annoying. It’s hard to photograph how deep it is, but all the pieces rock around when walked on, and it keeps getting worse because it fills with 4” of water every time it rain.  If I’m able to lift the pieces out, how futile is trying to level underneath with sand (or something?) as a temporary fix?
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 15:33
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:I don’t want to spend $15k on a new driveway, but this spot is particularly annoying. It’s hard to photograph how deep it is, but all the pieces rock around when walked on, and it keeps getting worse because it fills with 4” of water every time it rain. I can't tell for sure the scale of the area, but if it isn't too large I'd pour a new patch.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 15:55
|
|
|
glynnenstein posted:I can't tell for sure the scale of the area, but if it isn't too large I'd pour a new patch. The circle is maybe 3ft across. The whole thing is cracked up, but this is the only place that’s actually sunken in.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 16:26
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:The circle is maybe 3ft across. The whole thing is cracked up, but this is the only place that’s actually sunken in. May have to add some sand underneath before you patch. I suspect that water is getting under the concrete due to the cracks and has washed away the sand/gravel underneath, which is what's causing it to sink.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 16:45
|
|
|
PremiumSupport posted:I have never seen insulation on cold water pipes. Where do you live that it doesn't ever freeze?
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 16:54
|
|
|
Finally got an antenna installed in the attic and coax ran down into the basement to connect to all the TVs. I just installed the electrical/network rack and plan to spend some time this weekend re-running the cat6 drops that feed the first floor and basement from the temporary spot everything was run to this last year. I ran pull strings everywhere as well as J-hook paths so it should be pretty straightforward. Next steps after this are to get the fiber network runs to the second floor in place to help feed a second AP and IP cameras. Ask me about overkill in home network design!  
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 17:11
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:Where do you live that it doesn't ever freeze? It's pretty normal around the DC area, where it certainly freezes, to not have any insulated plumbing. I'm not around much residential stuff, but newer construction might use it more consistently, though I have still seen brand new stuff going up without anything.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 17:12
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:Where do you live that it doesn't ever freeze? Wasn't the person who brought this up talking about interior pipe insulation? And anywhere that I've lived where it freezes insulation on pipes in unconditioned spaces is basically useless on it's own. It's what you put on after the heat tape.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 17:14
|
|
|
devmd01 posted:Finally got an antenna installed in the attic and coax ran down into the basement to connect to all the TVs. I just installed the electrical/network rack and plan to spend some time this weekend re-running the cat6 drops that feed the first floor and basement from the temporary spot everything was run to this last year. I see you also have bits of doorframe lying around that you prop things up with. You say overkill, but it probably would've saved me a bunch of effort if I'd split my physical network in two by floors and run a couple of fibre lines between them. As it is I have 50 rather long cat7a cables all converging on one spot.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 17:24
|
|
|
I’ll clean it all up nice and tidy once all the Ethernet is run. I’m going to run 3x fiber and 4x Ethernet up into a lockable cabinet in the laundry room. From there I can patch things in however I want. For now 4 Ethernet will be fine, I won’t need more than that for an AP, upstairs TV, and maybe one other drop. When I want to do cameras down the road I’ll drop a POE switch upstairs, patch everything into that, then connect the fiber down to the basement.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 17:30
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:Where do you live that it doesn't ever freeze? Northern Minnesota, where it freezes all the time. E: Like others have said, pipes in non-climate controlled spaces need more than just insulation to prevent freezing, which is why you rarely if ever see pipes in unconditioned spaces in my area. Pipes in interior walls and climate controlled spaces generally don't get any insulation, with the notable exception of exposed hot water pipes. PremiumSupport fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Sep 27, 2019 |
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 18:52
|
|
|
I'm guessing the Nevvy Z lives in a hot, humid climate and the pipes are in an unconditioned attic.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 19:15
|
|
|
So I don't have any pictures at the moment, but I need some advice about siding. My house has a small addition on the back, the corner of which butts up against my electric meter. The previous owners who installed the addition apparently didn't account for siding when they did this, so the siding and flange was blocking the the cover of the meter by an inch or two. I had some electrical problems (which ended up being a problem at the service connection, but that's not the point) which required opening up the meter to test the voltage on the incoming line, so my electrician had to cut the flange with a utility knife to be able to get the cover off the meter. It's a pretty small area and I don't anticipate having to open up the meter frequently, but putting up more flange sounds like a bad idea, as does leaving it uncovered. Would something like Great Stuff work in this spot? It's in a weird little corner at the back of the house, so I don't care how it looks, but it would be easier to cut and reapply if necessary.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 21:02
|
|
|
Pics help.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 21:26
|
|
|
I attempted to loosen the pipe under my bathroom sink in order to clear out years of accumulation, and as soon as I applied pressure to unscrew the joint, rather than unscrew, the entire pipe split in half
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 22:06
|
|
|
Hey, that's good info to have!
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 23:02
|
|
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:I attempted to loosen the pipe under my bathroom sink in order to clear out years of accumulation, and as soon as I applied pressure to unscrew the joint, rather than unscrew, the entire pipe split in half Rust Never Sleeps
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 23:58
|
|
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:I attempted to loosen the pipe under my bathroom sink in order to clear out years of accumulation, and as soon as I applied pressure to unscrew the joint, rather than unscrew, the entire pipe split in half That reminds me that the bathroom in my parents house when I was kid, before a bathroom remodel, had a small port on the bottom of the P trap. You'd turn it like half a turn counterclockwise, and it would pop off. The hole was maybe nickle sized, but useful if you either think a ring fell into the sink or there's a small clog, or about other reason you have to relive the P trap and wanted an easier way to drain it. I've yet to see another p trap in the wild with that feature.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2019 00:50
|
|
|
Nevets posted:I'm guessing the Nevvy Z lives in a hot, humid climate and the pipes are in an unconditioned attic. No but I didn't realize how big this leak is I thought it was slower. I've pulled out most of what it's ruined gonna figure out stopping up the leak next. God I hope I don't experience something like that pipe split. I've gotta figure out how soon I can get a plumber here in case this goes poorly.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2019 02:06
|
|
|
DrBouvenstein posted:That reminds me that the bathroom in my parents house when I was kid, before a bathroom remodel, had a small port on the bottom of the P trap. You'd turn it like half a turn counterclockwise, and it would pop off. The hole was maybe nickle sized, but useful if you either think a ring fell into the sink or there's a small clog, or about other reason you have to relive the P trap and wanted an easier way to drain it. it's a p-trap with cleanout, and they still exist but cost a little bit more than a regular p-trap so that's probably why they're not used in new construction
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2019 05:41
|
|
|
Plumbing is one of those things that now if I'm going to mess with it I start it in the morning when home Depot is open.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2019 06:00
|
|
|
Nevvy Z posted:The stupid fucks who used to own our house didn't insulate the cold water pipes to the bathroom. At least, I'm pretty sure that's the reason for gradual water accumulation in our ceiling. Now I've gotta fix the ceiling and rip out the bathroom floor to insulate the pipes. loving hell. PremiumSupport posted:I have never seen insulation on cold water pipes. More common than you'd think. You'll most often see cold water insulated pipes in older basements with copper pipes that began their life as unfinished space. The insulation prevents the condensation that forms on the pipes during the humid months in the South from dripping off and destroying the (typically suspended) ceiling. What will really mess with you is when you look up and see an insulated line and a non-insulated line and tap off the non-insulated line expecting cold water. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2019 17:38
|
|
|
We got an old neighbor who's a plumber to come over Saturday afternoon. Took him less than 45 minutes to replace the broken pipe and reassemble everything. He charged me $40,but I gave him $50. We spent like 9 hours putting up photos and such yesterday. That took longer than I anticipated.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2019 13:45
|
|
|
I've got a drafty access door to the space under the porch. It's not full door sized. It is pretty snug to the cinder block walls surrounding. It does have a small door.. frame (just some strips of wood)? that it closes to but it's not a proper door frame. What's the best way of sealing this? Maybe some foam on the door "frame" for the door to close onto?
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2019 15:24
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:I've got a drafty access door to the space under the porch. It's not full door sized. It is pretty snug to the cinder block walls surrounding. It does have a small door.. frame (just some strips of wood)? that it closes to but it's not a proper door frame. What's the best way of sealing this? Maybe some foam on the door "frame" for the door to close onto? Weather stripping. They sell kits of it that you just cut to size and screw/glue into place.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2019 16:38
|
|
|
I went to HD and only saw weather stripping that had metal backs and weren't designed to be cut. Maybe I need to take another look I guess. Also, I assume it's fine to use expanding foam insulation to fill in the small areas in the block where a small chunk fell out? Just fill/cut flush.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2019 16:42
|
|
|
My local one has rolls of it in the isle with the locks & misc. door hardware. Just a length of rubber shaped like a b that you nail the flat part into the trim and the round part compresses against the door to form the seal.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2019 16:56
|
|
|
Nevets posted:My local one has rolls of it in the isle with the locks & misc. door hardware. Just a length of rubber shaped like a b that you nail the flat part into the trim and the round part compresses against the door to form the seal. I only saw these that were door sweeps and had multiple layers of the rubber and wouldn't fit between the door and the blocks, but I'll look again. I saw some for windows that were like that but they were super wide and wouldn't fit on the door frame.. though I guess I could also have cut them in half.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2019 17:22
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Also, I assume it's fine to use expanding foam insulation to fill in the small areas in the block where a small chunk fell out? Just fill/cut flush. Yep. Assuming it's not a structural repair but just a sealing one. totalnewbie posted:I only saw these that were door sweeps and had multiple layers of the rubber and wouldn't fit between the door and the blocks, but I'll look again. I saw some for windows that were like that but they were super wide and wouldn't fit on the door frame.. though I guess I could also have cut them in half. This is what Nevets is talking about, I assume: https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-42-in-Brown-Cinch-Door-Seal-Top-and-Sides-5-Piece-43305/203584940
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2019 18:29
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:I only saw these that were door sweeps and had multiple layers of the rubber and wouldn't fit between the door and the blocks, but I'll look again. I saw some for windows that were like that but they were super wide and wouldn't fit on the door frame.. though I guess I could also have cut them in half. I've bought some cheapo d-shaped self-adhesive stripping from Lowes for a door frame that didn't have any attachment points and it worked good enough. Look for something like this: Silicone Door Seal Weatherstrip It'll be coiled up in a box hanging on a shelf. Just find something you want on-line and see if it tells you where to go in your store (Lowes does it and I think Home Depot does it too).
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2019 18:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 22:20 |
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:Yep. Assuming it's not a structural repair but just a sealing one. Oh yeah, for sure 100% sealing, not structural. effika posted:I've bought some cheapo d-shaped self-adhesive stripping from Lowes for a door frame that didn't have any attachment points and it worked good enough. Look for something like this: This looks like what I need. i guess the metal stuff you can just cut with a saw, huh. Makes sense. https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-1-4-in-x-17-ft-Low-Density-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-02071/100665371 This is the stuff I found but it was two of those strips connected together with a little groove in the middle; there was adhesive on either side of the groove but not in the middle. It said it was for windows.. which I also need to seal but that's a different day/post. Thanks, all!
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2019 22:23
|
|