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Ropes4u posted:Debating cork style bases for my death guard, a few rocks and an occasional plant would round out the bases. Thoughts? Yea but skip the rocks and tufts and do this instead http://fantasygames.com.pl/how-to-make-nurgle-base I did this with my plaguebearers but went with a pink-purple to make it look like spilled guts 
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Sep 28, 2019 23:59
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I might consider that idea, need to find some spare bodies for the “scenery”.
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Sep 29, 2019 00:08
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I did my first paint ever. Tortle and lizardfolk minis for DnD. https://imgur.com/a/gOZAqp9
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Sep 29, 2019 03:47
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rodbeard posted:I did my first paint ever. Tortle and lizardfolk minis for DnD. Those are nice! Miniatures need help defining their shape and details at a distance, so the next thing I’d recommend is trying out some highlights on these guys.
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Sep 29, 2019 12:03
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Two Headed Calf posted:Yea but skip the rocks and tufts and do this instead That's cool. There's some trick for snow involving super glue and baking soda but if you do it "wrong," it gets a similar veiny look. It never worked for me, I just kept getting snow like texture  How it's supposed to be "wrong"  How it turned out for me 
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Sep 29, 2019 14:49
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e: snip - Whoops.
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Sep 29, 2019 22:45
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I started this morning with a basecoat, shoulder trim and chest eagle done. I'm calling it a night here. Maybe.   I tried using contrast for the inner cape but it looked like poo poo so I'm in the process of going over it in white scar. Undecided on what to do with the outer cape. Gonna be hard to get in under that power pack. Any recommendations for a color to highlight the fist logo on the shoulder pad?
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Sep 30, 2019 01:59
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Ropes4u posted:Debating cork style bases for my death guard, a few rocks and an occasional plant would round out the bases. Thoughts? Add some amount of basing gel, all it takes is a little with the cork to make it look good.
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Sep 30, 2019 07:37
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From a few pages back, but these are great. What Blood Bowl miniatures are these?
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Sep 30, 2019 08:51
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I bought one of those small foldable spraybooths to try and up my airbrush game. Am I going to die if I don't use the hose to vent the fumes out the window? I'm only spraying normal acrylics, so there isn't anything in them that should seriously rot my brain.
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Sep 30, 2019 09:12
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Electric Hobo posted:I bought one of those small foldable spraybooths to try and up my airbrush game. Am I going to die if I don't use the hose to vent the fumes out the window? I'm only spraying normal acrylics, so there isn't anything in them that should seriously rot my brain. There are still pigments in the paint, some of which can be nasty. Wear a painters mask to keep from breathing too much particulate.
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Sep 30, 2019 09:21
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TheBigAristotle posted:I tried using contrast for the inner cape but it looked like poo poo so I'm in the process of going over it in white scar. Undecided on what to do with the outer cape. Gonna be hard to get in under that power pack. Do not use white scar for base coats. Basecoat in Celestra or Ulthulan grey and edge highlight with white scar. You can see how thick the brush strokes on that cape are and that's because the paint isn't designed for what you're doing with it.
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Sep 30, 2019 10:04
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Two Beans posted:From a few pages back, but these are great. What Blood Bowl miniatures are these? 2002 Khemri team Mummies/Tomb guardians. The one in the middle is Ramtut III star player from 2004. Meanwhile I did some painting yesterday, quickly done in a couple of hours. Not Blood Bowl for a change. 
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Sep 30, 2019 12:00
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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:2002 Khemri team Mummies/Tomb guardians. The one in the middle is Ramtut III star player from 2004. Those are rad.
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Sep 30, 2019 12:28
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Thanqol posted:Do not use white scar for base coats. Basecoat in Celestra or Ulthulan grey and edge highlight with white scar. You can see how thick the brush strokes on that cape are and that's because the paint isn't designed for what you're doing with it. It was previously based in wraithbone, then contrast which I didn't dig, then went white scar. The layers have been thin enough that I can probably just go over it again with ulthuan
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Sep 30, 2019 12:38
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:There are still pigments in the paint, some of which can be nasty. Wear a painters mask to keep from breathing too much particulate.
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Sep 30, 2019 13:09
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I haven't made a lot of progress, but I DID get my Eldar rolling pin from Greenstuff World: 
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Sep 30, 2019 20:05
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Well, after what was several months of work and procrastination, the Blood Angels Tactical Squad is (more-or-less) finished.           Obviously, the chapter banner is not finished (I need Khorne Red, along with some BA transfers), and there are some mistakes and spots I missed. The photos aren't the best quality, and the blurriness along with the angle and lighting probably obscure some more errors. However, looking at them here, I think they came out pretty good. Please let me know what looks good/what I did wrong or the method in which I painted some of these.. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Oct 1, 2019 |
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Oct 1, 2019 02:48
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They feel just a little flat. Do you have any washes? If not, you can make a fast serviceable one for quick and dirty work in nooks and crannies with a suitable acrylic and water, but that needs a careful hand to keep from getting out of control and puddling.
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Oct 1, 2019 03:59
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Every damned time I get out of 40k, something comes along to make me want to do another Imperial Fist army. Told myself I'd only do one if I could work out how to do a colour scheme that takes less than 15mins per mini - not including drying time. So here he is. 14 minutes and change. It looks like I'm doing fists again  
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Oct 1, 2019 04:01
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Loomer posted:They feel just a little flat. Do you have any washes? If not, you can make a fast serviceable one for quick and dirty work in nooks and crannies with a suitable acrylic and water, but that needs a careful hand to keep from getting out of control and puddling.  I have washes, and I did apply them on the minis. For the armor, I did a pin-wash of Strong Tone (brown wash) on the armor, but maybe it wasn't strong enough or applied everywhere properly.
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Oct 1, 2019 04:25
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It's very possible that it's just me being colourblind again. Red and browns are hard to pick out for me which may explain why they're coming off muddy on my end. Hopefully someone else with normal vision chimes in.
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Oct 1, 2019 06:07
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Max Wilco posted:
I can see your pin washing, but I think you'd benefit a lot from a wash on the gold (brown, black, red, purple) and the silvers (brown or black).
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Oct 1, 2019 06:12
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Booley posted:I can see your pin washing, but I think you'd benefit a lot from a wash on the gold (brown, black, red, purple) and the silvers (brown or black). I did do a black wash on the silver, and I applied Reikland Fleshshade to the gold, but again, maybe I didn't apply enough.
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Oct 1, 2019 14:01
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How do I highlight red for OSL without making the light source look pink or orange?
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Oct 1, 2019 15:29
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Electric Hobo posted:Yeah, I figured that I'd be wearing a mask just in case, but the pigments should be sucked into the filter. I don't vent outside. You'll be fine. Just make sure you change out your filter on a regular basis.
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Oct 1, 2019 15:35
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Electric Hobo posted:Am I going to die if I don't use the hose to vent the fumes out the window?
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Oct 1, 2019 19:31
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Max Wilco posted:blangels They're looking really good and you should be proud of your progress! You've come a long way from when you were starting, and it shows. I'm gonna give you a big advice dump of different things you could do to expand your skills - you don't need to do all of this stuff at once, and the only thing I'd say you "need" to do is finishing the bases, because a base frames the miniature. To make your minis look really good, you need to finish your bases. Make sure they're all covered in a single colour, give them a wash (Nuln oil or agrax Earthshade would work for the grey you've used), do a light Drybrush of a pale tone (GW often use Tyrant Skull over grey dirt, which is a solid choice) and then coat the rim in a solid colour (black always looks good, browns and other colors are usually only for when you have a gaming board to blend the bases into) Other posters have mentioned shading your metallics, and I agree - Nuln Oil on the silver, Reikland Fleshshade on the gold. This will add a lot of Contrast to them, and you could follow up with highlights but won't need to for it to look good. If you want a Cleaner look (closer to the GW studio style), you could tidy up the red a little bit. Washes usually leave things slightly patchy, even pin washes, and I'll often have several cleanup steps in my painting flows. Carefully go over the larger raised areas with one or two thin coats of red, avoiding the crevices, until they're looking nice and flat. Or leave them how they are, this is a matter of personal taste really and it looks good as is. I'd recommend picking up a pin drill and drilling the barrels of your boltguns. It's a little detail but it makes a big difference. You can get dirt cheap pin drills from AliExpress with a variety of bits, but the pricey ones GW sell have exactly (and only) the right size bit for boltguns and are easier to acquire and better quality, so choose the right option for your wallet here. If you want to push yourself further, you could try doing sharper, brighter highlights. What you've got now is a 'chunky highlight' - it's a bit thicker, and in a tone much closer to the main one, which is ideal as a base for sharp highlights. It looks like you've used Abaddon black -> eshin grey on the casings of your boltguns - a good edge color here would be either dawnstone or administratum grey. You'll want to have thin paint, with very little loaded on your brush, and the brush should be small and have a sharp tip - you want to run the side of the brush along the edges to catch them with a really fine line. It's a good idea to practice this without any paint on your brush, just to develop confidence controlling the bristles and making sure they go where you want. You've got some great looking figures already - keep up the good progress, you'll amaze yourself with what you're capable of 
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Oct 1, 2019 23:14
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Max Wilco posted:Blood Angels Tactical Squad Great job dude! Completing painting projects is a skill in itself.
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Oct 2, 2019 00:38
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Texmo posted:
It did occur to me to drybrush the base, but I forgot about applying a shade to it. I don't have Tyrant Skull, but I think I have Terminatus Stone, which I think is similar in color. I'll try adding another layer of shading to the metallics. It could be that the metallics look bad because of the lighting in the photos. Still, another layer of shade might not hurt, and then brighten it up with Retributor Armor. With the silver, the issue is that the silver color I've been using (VGC Silver) seems like it doesn't work that well, so I'm thinking about getting some of the Citadel metallics as a replacement. I have a pin vise that I got for cheap off of Amazon, but I've not worked with it much, and it's probably not the best quality. I could check out the GW one. The mistake I made was not trying to drill out the gun barrels before priming the models, so that's why the holes I did drill aren't that great, as I was trying to drill through the paint. As far as touching up and highlighting goes, I think I might wait until I get to that stage again on the next project I do. Edge highlighting is one of those things that I (or a lot of people, as it sounds) really care for, but it varies with what I'm doing. For something like the bolters it seems more frustrating than something like the helmets or something, maybe because of how many edges there are on the bolter. Kore_Fero posted:Great job dude! Completing painting projects is a skill in itself. That's for sure. I don't remember when exactly I actually started on the squad, but I think it was sometime in April when I had a couple of minis built and primed. However, I actually got the Blood Angels Tactical Squad nearly a year ago ( around October/November 2018. I got them from Miniature Market along with a box of WHFB Chaos Warriors, which is what I worked on first before the Blood Angels). As far as what I plan to work on next, I've got a Start Collecting Skitarii box that I've got mostly assembled (save for maybe one ranger; the Dunecrawler was easier to put together than I thought, and it's almost done), and a lot of it primed in black. However, I still haven't decided what color to paint them. The big thing I'm waiting for is the Sisters of Battle army, and I'm hoping to pre-order those soon. I have a partial idea of the colors I want to do for the Sisters, but I don't know for sure how it'll work until I plan it out and maybe test it. Apart from the Sisters, there's tons of other stuff I want to do. I'd like to do some Grey Knights or Adeptus Custodes, and with the latter, I wanted to try the Vallejo Liquid Gold. As far as Loyalist Space Marines goes, I thought about shifting gears from Blood Angels to a different chapter like Dark Angels, Imperial Fists, or Ultramarines. I also want to paint up some Chaos Space Marines, but again, it's an issue of deciding the legion/chapter and colors. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Oct 2, 2019 |
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Oct 2, 2019 04:16
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about painting
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So this might be a silly question, but is there a way to make a paint more opaque? I'm guessing no (apart from adding more raw pigment), but I've seen a bunch of poo poo in this thread that I wouldn't have thought possible.
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Oct 2, 2019 15:33
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More layers will make your paint more opaque. Don't go too heavy or, y'know, thinyourpaints.jpg Are you angling for more solid colors or more intense colors, though? Higher intensity needs more pigment and less medium, so you want seeing like an ink.
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Oct 2, 2019 15:44
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Inks are mind-blowing.
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Oct 2, 2019 15:49
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grassy gnoll posted:More layers will make your paint more opaque. Don't go too heavy or, y'know, thinyourpaints.jpg I'm painting metals over colours (citadel leadbelcher over mephiston red) and vice versa, and I still see the paint underneath shine through after three or so coats. I was just wondering if there was a way to increase the opacity of the paints themselves, apart from just putting down more layers
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Oct 2, 2019 16:33
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You can thin the paint opacity, but you can't really increase it. if you can actually see your base color through three layers, unless you're glazing or something, your paint is way too thin. Metallics are affected by the color under them though, so maybe that's what your seeing? Like Leadbelcher over black is going to look different than if you put it over white.
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Oct 2, 2019 16:57
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Yeah, for that particular case, you want a gloss black layer or two over your color wherever you're going to paint metals.
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Oct 2, 2019 17:21
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inscrutable horse posted:So this might be a silly question, but is there a way to make a paint more opaque? I'm guessing no (apart from adding more raw pigment), but I've seen a bunch of poo poo in this thread that I wouldn't have thought possible. You can mix a more opaque paint into the paint. White will work for most cases, but of course it will also desaturate and lighten the paint.
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Oct 2, 2019 23:02
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I've recently picked back up painting tinymans, but have focused mostly on making terrain pieces. I learned most of the painting techniques from reading this thread. Here's some of the stuff.   Thanks for all the advice. I know I've still a lot to learn but I'm fairly satisfied with the results even if the picture quality is awful.
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Oct 3, 2019 04:02
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Refind Chaos posted:I've recently picked back up painting tinymans, but have focused mostly on making terrain pieces. I learned most of the painting techniques from reading this thread. That well is great! Could I ask where you got it from? Or did you make it yourself?
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Oct 3, 2019 04:35
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The well and base are almost entirely made from Extruded Poly Polystyrene that I shape with a few different tools, a wooden dowel for the main posts, the rope is bracelet twine, and initial ground texturing with construction sand. Flock is woodland scenics, as is the water effects. Cover the whole thing in a mix of modpodge and black acrylic then just start painting. I could probably do a detailed break down of how I do it, but I don't have pictures of the project from start to finish.
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Oct 3, 2019 04:48
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