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Noticed something a bit odd while getting this C50 set up. When I go to download the latest firmware, it mentions to make sure I'm loading the correct region. I double checked I'm at TP-link.ca (in Canada), and the zip file says "CA", but when I extract it, it says "EU". Archer_C50v4_EU_0.9.1_0.2_up_boot[190125-rel63783].bin If I download the older first version, from the same place, it's "Archer_C50v4_CA_0.9.1_0.1_up_boot[180313-rel55577]". Edit: Had a look on their forums. See a post about "How do I see what pages my kids are visiting", followed by "how do I set up OpenVPN", followed by "How do I block VPNs, my kids keep using them to bypass parental controls". Golluk fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Sep 27, 2019 |
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Sep 27, 2019 20:39
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Golluk posted:Edit: Had a look on their forums. See a post about "How do I see what pages my kids are visiting", followed by "how do I set up OpenVPN", followed by "How do I block VPNs, my kids keep using them to bypass parental controls". That's beautiful.
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Sep 27, 2019 22:29
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So I'm looking to replace my parents' aging wireless router. I have an Edgerouter X and AP AC LR at home which works great for me, but is a little outside their price range. Are there any horror stories about using an AmpliFi Instant Router from Ubiquiti? It may not be super quick but it will still be a massive upgrade over their current equipment.
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Sep 28, 2019 01:37
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Could use some advice, please! One of my family members has a ~1600 sq foot home and the wifi setup they have is pretty bad. They're renting a modem/router combo from Comcast—he told me it's the xFi Advanced Gateway: https://www.xfinity.com/support/articles/broadband-gateways-userguides and it's the only device supplying wifi for the entire home (2 floors, plus full basement). The modem/router is on 1st floor, tucked away in their den where their family PC is. The den is on the far left side of house. As such, the wifi signal for devices in the basement and on the 2nd floor take a huge hit. My first thought was to just drill holes to fish ethernet cables to the 2nd floor and basement from the den and attach some APs to the ends of them. Is that the best idea? Would one of those whole home wifi mesh solutions be better? He's down for drilling, but if there's a much simpler/easier/more convenient solution that can get stronger wifi throughout his house, I'm all ears 
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Sep 30, 2019 03:38
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teagone posted:Could use some advice, please! One of my family members has a ~1600 sq foot home and the wifi setup they have is pretty bad. They're renting a modem/router combo from Comcast—he told me it's the xFi Advanced Gateway: https://www.xfinity.com/support/articles/broadband-gateways-userguides and it's the only device supplying wifi for the entire home (2 floors, plus full basement). Try mesh first, and if that isn't good enough, hard wire the nodes in.
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Sep 30, 2019 14:17
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I somehow managed to get Gigabit enabled on my cable setup, what is the best modem to pair up with the service? I have a SB6183 and want to stick with a dedicated modem as I already have all the routing and WiFi infrastructure, but I'm seeing some unpleasant reviews online for the next step up on the Arris side.
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Sep 30, 2019 15:49
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FunOne posted:I somehow managed to get Gigabit enabled on my cable setup, what is the best modem to pair up with the service? My Arris SB8200 has been perfect since getting gigabit internet.
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Sep 30, 2019 16:21
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Update on gigabit internet: My Archer C5 does not appear to be up to the task. It's dropping the WAN connection frequently. The Cox support dudes said the modem is showing totally OK diagnostics from their end, good signal, normal amount of T3/4 drops. The tech said it was really weird that he was seeing a flurry of IPv6 activity and address requests from my router, which makes him think that something's not right on the router's end with the IPv6. I give up with this modem. Ordered an Edgerouter Lite and a AC Lite, going to set them up this week. I have a smallish house and have no problem getting 2.4ghz signal anywhere, and get good 5 ghz coverage in about 2/3rds of the house. I'm somewhat network handy, though grossly out of practice since about the Windows XP era when home routers became idiot proof.
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Sep 30, 2019 16:53
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Can the ER Lite handle 1gb routing?
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Sep 30, 2019 19:40
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FunOne posted:Can the ER Lite handle 1gb routing? Yes, as long as you don't turn on anything fancy.
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Sep 30, 2019 19:51
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canyoneer posted:Update on gigabit internet: I've had half a dozen home routers get shifty with IPv6, and have always worked around by just turning IPv6 off. I know it's not ideal, but even my current AT&T router can't happily handle IPv6.
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Sep 30, 2019 20:01
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I'm wondering if it is worth buying a new 802.11ac wireless router or access point in my situation or if I should move straight to giving a powerline solution a try? If anyone has other suggestions I'd be delighted to hear them too. In my new (rented) townhouse the only place to put the modem is in the master bedroom on the first floor. The computer room is right above it on the second floor. The signal is adequate for browsing, but tends to disconnect when I try to use it for gaming. Especially if both computers are in use. In specific, when me and my wife try to play Don't Starve or another real-time multiplayer game whichever of us isn't hosting the game tends to have lag issues bad enough to disconnect us fairly often. I'm currently using AT&Ts all-in-one 802.11n wireless router/modem (an Arris BGW210-700). According to the manual it has an 802.11ac mode, but I haven't been able to figure out how to force into using it. I've also got a decade old standalone wireless router (D-link running 802.11n) that I tested, and it seemed to make things a little better, but wasn't a complete fix. Local wifi spectrums are pretty congested and I'm fairly certain I'm already on the best channel. I say fairly certain because which channels are busiest varies every time I check. LLSix fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Sep 30, 2019 |
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Sep 30, 2019 20:02
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Twerk from Home posted:I've had half a dozen home routers get shifty with IPv6, and have always worked around by just turning IPv6 off. I know it's not ideal, but even my current AT&T router can't happily handle IPv6. Correction, it's an Archer C7. For some reason the little booger won't turn off IPv6. I go to disable it, it agrees, I restart, and it's back 
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Sep 30, 2019 20:05
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LLSix posted:I'm wondering if it is worth buying a new 802.11ac wireless router or access point in my situation Yes.
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Sep 30, 2019 20:12
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willroc7 posted:Try mesh first, and if that isn't good enough, hard wire the nodes in. How do those wifi mesh-kits-in-a-box work? Do the nodes need to be in line of sight from one another? I'd presumably put one node on each floor, but since they're wireless, isn't that similar to just plugging in wireless extenders all over the house? I've never had a good experience with those.
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Sep 30, 2019 20:38
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teagone posted:How do those wifi mesh-kits-in-a-box work? teagone posted:Do the nodes need to be in line of sight from one another? teagone posted:I'd presumably put one node on each floor, but since they're wireless, isn't that similar to just plugging in wireless extenders all over the house? I've never had a good experience with those.
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Sep 30, 2019 20:45
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I only ask, because Comcast offered him a mesh solution called xPods to work with his gateway, but I was reading elsewhere that the pods needed to be in line of sight in order to get good speeds. Maybe it's just the xPods suck lol. Can anyone recommend a good mesh solution for a 1600sq ft home with 2 floors and a full basement? Also, what would I need to do on his existing router/modem other than disable the WiFi on it once we decide on a mesh kit? teagone fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Sep 30, 2019 |
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Sep 30, 2019 21:01
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teagone posted:I ask, because Comcast offered him a mesh solution called xPods to work with his gateway, but I was reading elsewhere that the pods needed to be in line of sight in order to get good speeds. Maybe it's just the xPods suck lol. Eero, Orbi, or Deco on the cheaper end. They do have to be close enough to talk to each other. Not quite line of sight, though. You can start with 2 or 3 nodes and add more as needed if they do not provide sufficient coverage, or if you have to move them closer together.
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Sep 30, 2019 21:03
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The Comcast boxes look like Plume devices, so check the reviews on those.
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Sep 30, 2019 21:05
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I'm using UBNT equipment in my suburban home. Huge 2.4ghz interference, but minimal 5ghz interference, as you would expect. Will I get benefits from switching my TWO AC Lite APs to using VHT80 instead of 40 for 5ghz? I max out ~200mb/s on 40 right now.
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Sep 30, 2019 21:10
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FunOne posted:I'm using UBNT equipment in my suburban home. Huge 2.4ghz interference, but minimal 5ghz interference, as you would expect. 80Mhz/VHT80 is really required for best 802.11ac speeds. And assuming your clients are 3x3 they will benefit from it. All modern Apple products are 3x3 for example. And many other products are as well. UBNT equipment being business oriented tends to ship with more conservative defaults.
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Sep 30, 2019 21:15
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Re: mesh in a box, I’d advise against Google Wifi for multi floor home. Mine worked ok-ish but a number of minor grievances added up. Cable internet (600mbps) coming into house is only in basement, so primary point there. Another on main floor and 3rd on top floor. There was the faintest signal from the basement and the system insisted on connecting top floor to basement, amplifying a terrible signal instead of wireless uplink from main floor. Because it’s made to be simplistic, there is no ability to adjust or change this. Would also get lots of random dropouts where the wifi network would drop all connections for 5 minutes or so a few times per week. Some evenings my signal in the top floor would be great, other evenings I couldn’t even load a webpage. Switched to a 2 AP solution with UniFi and everything is blazing fast and solid.
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Sep 30, 2019 21:18
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willroc7 posted:Eero, Orbi, or Deco on the cheaper end. They do have to be close enough to talk to each other. Not quite line of sight, though. You can start with 2 or 3 nodes and add more as needed if they do not provide sufficient coverage, or if you have to move them closer together. Ok cool, thanks. Thanks Ants posted:The Comcast boxes look like Plume devices, so check the reviews on those. Did a prelim search, and looks like Plume pods work a little differently than most other home mesh kits. And they're slower. Will do more reading though! Opioid posted:Re: mesh in a box, I’d advise against Google Wifi for multi floor home. Mine worked ok-ish but a number of minor grievances added up. Hmm, noted. Their connection is teagone fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Oct 1, 2019 |
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Sep 30, 2019 21:38
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Internet Explorer posted:Yes, as long as you don't turn on anything fancy. Like hardware offloading?
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Sep 30, 2019 22:31
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Binary Badger posted:Like hardware offloading? More like QOS or detailed analytics I think. Enabling hardware offload should only increase your possible speed.
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Sep 30, 2019 23:13
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Got a reply back on the Archer C50 firmware, Canada uses the same firmware as EU. At the same time, I realized that the C50 is not the same as the C5 in the OP, most importantly being that it's only 100mbps on its ports, not 1GB. Back to the store it goes. Edit: Picked up a C7, they priced matched to almost as cheap as it was a couple months ago. Golluk fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Oct 3, 2019 |
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Oct 1, 2019 01:30
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This isn't home networking so apologize if this is the wrong thread, but I have an unusual case for a product we are developing. Basically, we are recording video with IP cameras in locations without WAN connectivity, then connecting the system to an ethernet port to upload the videos (and allow us to SSH and check things, update the version of the software, etc.). During offline recording the system is controlled by a web interface. We want to provide the whole setup to clients and allow it to be operated without technical knowledge. The architecture I'm imaging is something like code:So I have a few questions
Any advice is appreciated.
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Oct 3, 2019 12:42
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Just to clarify - your router is disconnected from the client's LAN until it's time to upload, in which a cable is plugged into the router to connect your segregated LAN to theirs? And this is the only time in which your or the client are able to connect to the server? Or have I misinterpreted the process?
If the router and switch both are VLAN capable (and if you're able to disable DHCP on specific interfaces) you could configure vlans + intervlan routing to accomplish this - have the camera vlan reach the cameras and router, have the client vlan reach the client LAN, router, and server, and configure a rule on the router to block traffic from the camera network except when it has the destination address of the server. Will also need to set the default gateway of the server to your router's IP so that it can communicate with the cameras. A layer 3 switch can also accomplish this as well.
Could also look into setting up a reverse ssh tunnel on the server if the client doesn't want to open up ports for a VPN.
e.
If you can have your client add in a route on their router to your camera network, then you can just have your server hang out in the same network as your cameras and the clients will be able to access the server. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Oct 3, 2019 |
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Oct 3, 2019 18:46
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hey, what's a decent modem nowadays for a 500mb connection
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Oct 3, 2019 20:55
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Thanks for taking a crack out of this. I'm out of my comfort zone here, if you can't tell.Actuarial Fables posted:Just to clarify - your router is disconnected from the client's LAN until it's time to upload, in which a cable is plugged into the router to connect your segregated LAN to theirs? And this is the only time in which your or the client are able to connect to the server? Or have I misinterpreted the process? Close -- the client needs to be able to connect to the server even when disconnected from their LAN (when traveling). Ideally the setup has one loose ethernet cable. When they're traveling, they plug in their own laptop and can control the cameras through the interface we're serving. When they get back to the office, they plug the cable into their LAN and it starts uploading the videos to us. Actuarial Fables posted:
Yes and no. When the client LAN is available, we need remote access, but there's no camera traffic during this phase of operation. Actuarial Fables posted:
Right, this should be possible, the question is if this configuration of our devices will also work when the client LAN is not available and they directly connect instead.
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Oct 3, 2019 22:21
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SurgicalOntologist posted:Right, this should be possible, the question is if this configuration of our devices will also work when the client LAN is not available and they directly connect instead. I think I've got a better understanding now. You need a small portable network that functions by itself, but can be hooked up to a larger network. If you have DHCP set up on the Camera LAN and instruct your users to plug their laptop into the switch while traveling, then they will be able to "directly connect" to the server. With DHCP turned on, their laptop will be given an address and will be able to communicate with the server. Communication between the cameras, server, and laptop all on the same LAN doesn't require any services of the Client LAN and can be used without an uplink. If you can secure a static IP/DHCP reservation in the Client LAN for of the travel router, then you should be able to set a static route on the Client Router to route traffic to the Camera LAN (or set up a dynamic routing protocol if you really want to I guess). The key thing will be to ensure that the Default Route for the Travel Router is the Client Router, so that the server can communicate back to the Client LAN 
Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Oct 3, 2019 |
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Oct 3, 2019 23:33
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Goast posted:hey, what's a decent modem nowadays for a 500mb connection Who is your ISP? My SB8200 has been rock solid on Comcast. 1000 down/35 up. Can't wait to get a symmetrical connection.
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Oct 4, 2019 02:40
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Moey posted:Who is your ISP? yeah comcast, i guess im swapping my old surfboard for a new one i dunno why i asked the answer has always been the same lmao
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Oct 4, 2019 02:52
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Actuarial Fables posted:I think I've got a better understanding now. You need a small portable network that functions by itself, but can be hooked up to a larger network. Thank you, this is very helpful! One more question, in case we're not able to get a static route, is there some kind of workaround (for us getting access through the Client LAN) involving an autossh service with port tunneling?
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Oct 4, 2019 11:19
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SurgicalOntologist posted:Thank you, this is very helpful! If you're unable to get a static route, then I would recommend turning on NAT on the travel router. This will cause traffic coming from the web server to use the IP address of the client side of the travel router, allowing it to communicate with the outside world. Sure, it'll be doube-natted, but it'll work. If clients need to be able to reach the server while on the client LAN (and there's no static route), then set up some port forwarding rules on the travel router to the server's IP address (ports 80/tcp + 443/tcp for web traffic). You'll then need to instruct the users that the IP address they use to access the server is different than when connected to the Camera LAN - they'll type in the address of the travel router to access it. autossh will work, yes. You'll probably end up with a command on the server similar to this one to establish the tunnel 'autossh -M 21001 -N -R 20000:localhost:22 remoteuser@remotehost' Then to use the tunnel, the command on the remote side 'ssh -p 20000 serveruser@localhost'
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Oct 4, 2019 21:03
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I just got a pi-hole running today, and it works if I set individual computer DNS to its IP, but I found that my router's (WNDR3700v2) factory firmware apparently doesn't support local DNS servers. I searched and found a post from another user with the same model and issue, and they claimed that switching over to dd-wrt allowed it to work. So I tried to flash dd-wrt, and during the flash everything seemed to go smoothly. The new web interface came up, I changed the default password, and then just clicking around the web interface a couple times, it stopped responding. I rebooted it, and it seems like basically any time I try to apply settings or save changes for anything, the web interface goes down and never comes back up. If i try to telnet in, it says its connected, but immediately closes the connection: code:The thing still routes and I have access to WAN etc after the web interface goes down, but this really sucks that I apparently can't do poo poo to configure this thing. Any ideas?
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Oct 6, 2019 09:38
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peepsalot posted:I just got a pi-hole running today, and it works if I set individual computer DNS to its IP, but I found that my router's (WNDR3700v2) factory firmware apparently doesn't support local DNS servers. I searched and found a post from another user with the same model and issue, and they claimed that switching over to dd-wrt allowed it to work. Did you clear the NVRAM after you flashed it with dd-wrt?
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Oct 6, 2019 17:41
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astral posted:Did you clear the NVRAM after you flashed it with dd-wrt? Also I realized that I am able to connect to telnet as long as I do it after rebooting and before crashing the web interface. So I ran "erase nvram" then "reboot". Still unstable. Then I read that it should actually be "nvram erase && reboot" so I tried that too. I've now read that clearing NVRAM should be done *before* and *after* every upgrade/flash? Before flashing dd-wrt, I had to downgrade the factory image from 1.0.1.14 to 1.0.0.12 because Netgear put some check in the later firmware that blocks alternative firmwares somehow. Did I screw up by not clearing NVRAM before/after the factory downgrade as well as the switch to dd-wrt? I don't understand the need for any of this, why can't it clear its own drat self after a reflash. I'm starting to remember why I gave up on custom firmware years ago. Edit: I just noticed another thing: On the main web interface status page, my "LAN MAC" and "Wireless MAC" are identical... I don't think that's normal? I've been trying this whole time to just disable the drat wireless on this anyways, as I have separate hardware for that. peepsalot fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Oct 6, 2019 |
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Oct 6, 2019 18:47
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peepsalot posted:Whoops, didn't realize this was a thing. OK, I tried "30/30/30" and well, it didn't seem to fully initialize/boot after the last 30, until another power cycle, not sure if that's normal. But anyways after that it seemed to have same crashing issues. ah DD-WRT. What a poo poo show. When you say it didn't seem to fully boot after flashing, how long were you waiting? The claimed "120s" or whatever for my Asus was actually something like 20-30 minutes. I gave up and did something else and came back to it working. And basically, always be zapping nvram. Don't worry, eventually dd-wrt will kill it permanently and in 2-3 years you will buy a new one. You're sure this didn't work? https://kb.netgear.com/30510/How-do-I-set-static-Domain-Name-System-servers-on-my-NETGEAR-router
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Oct 6, 2019 21:23
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H110Hawk posted:ah DD-WRT. What a poo poo show Yeah, and the wiki is a hell world of out-of-date, contradictory, and/or incomplete advice scattered everywhere. H110Hawk posted:When you say it didn't seem to fully boot after flashing, how long were you waiting? H110Hawk posted:You're sure this didn't work? https://kb.netgear.com/30510/How-do-I-set-static-Domain-Name-System-servers-on-my-NETGEAR-router I think i'm gonna give OpenWRT a try, and if that doesn't work, I'll revert to factory and just set DNS manually on each individual device, or maybe get a new router.
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Oct 6, 2019 23:06
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