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FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

My 40v Black and Decker batteries do not allow a charge when they're hot. There's a temperature circuit built in. I haven't run my 20v hot enough to encounter that, but I wouldn't worry about it.

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canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
"If you're hot, they're hot. Bring your batteries inside" psa poster

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
I bought a house with old rim locks on all the exterior doors. I want to replace or rekey the cylinders and have them all use the same key, what's the best/easiest way to go about it? Lowe's sells individual replacement cylinders but then I'd have four different house keys.

n0tqu1tesane
May 7, 2003

She was rubbing her ass all over my hands. They don't just do that for everyone.
Grimey Drawer

Toebone posted:

I bought a house with old rim locks on all the exterior doors. I want to replace or rekey the cylinders and have them all use the same key, what's the best/easiest way to go about it? Lowe's sells individual replacement cylinders but then I'd have four different house keys.

Some Lowe's will rekey, otherwise you should be able to take them to a local locksmith to have them all keyed alike.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


n0tqu1tesane posted:

Some Lowe's will rekey, otherwise you should be able to take them to a local locksmith to have them all keyed alike.

How does that work, by the way? Do they replace the pins?

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

BonoMan posted:

Storing power tool batteries in the garage.

I have 2 batteries for my Dewalt 20v drill and 2 60v batteries for my craftsman weedeater and blower.

My little store room in the garage, with my peg board and tools, has an outlet which would be the perfect place to setup the battery station.

Except I live in Mississippi where it gets crazy hot (high today is 95) and humid and I'm a bit worried about storing them in such high heat for 3 months out of the year.

Is it *really* that bad to keep them in that heat?

And a question on the opposite:

I live in Vermont...would my batteries be fine in my unheated garage in the winter, or should I store them inside?

Actually I just answered my own question...it's unheated, what would I be doing out there on a regular basis in the winter to need the batteries right there?

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Jaded Burnout posted:

How does that work, by the way? Do they replace the pins?

I think they replace and or rearrange them. I bought a set of keyed alike locks and they asked if I wanted the old ones rekeyed to match also.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
The number of hardware stores that do rekeying is low in my experience. I wasn't able to find one and locksmiths wanted too much so I bought. Rekeying kit off eBay and did all my locks myself. It wasn't too difficult.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
It's pretty easy depending on the particular lock and if you have the correct tools to get the cylinder in and out. 5-pin Kwiksets are dead simple. The 7-pins are a little different to get apart and I recall Schlages needing some specific tools to disassemble/reassemble. But it's probably been 10 years or so since I've done rekeying. I used to do a lot of them for landlords in a college town so we were usually keying them to work with two different keys so the landlords could have a master for all their properties.

n0tqu1tesane
May 7, 2003

She was rubbing her ass all over my hands. They don't just do that for everyone.
Grimey Drawer

Jaded Burnout posted:

How does that work, by the way? Do they replace the pins?

Yep. Replace the pins to match across the cylinders.

This is a great video on reading keys, matching them to pins, and decoding master keys based on minimal information.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVPSaKLKHd4

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

canyoneer posted:

"If you're hot, they're hot. Bring your batteries inside" psa poster

I'm going to make this btw

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

Toebone posted:

I bought a house with old rim locks on all the exterior doors. I want to replace or rekey the cylinders and have them all use the same key, what's the best/easiest way to go about it? Lowe's sells individual replacement cylinders but then I'd have four different house keys.

I did this a few months ago in my house with a 3 old mortise cylinder locks. I bought 2 new cylinders with the same keyway as the third that I couldn't find an easy replacement for, then rekeyed the old one to match the new ones. I got the new ones from https://ebuilderdirect.com/ and a Schlage rekey kit on ebay, when I got the new ones from them they were already pinned alike. I think that is the standard when you buy from a lock shop as opposed to a general hardware store.

Rekeying the lock was fairly easy, as long as you don't free the pins and springs in the housing. Even if you gently caress that up while playing with it like an idiot (ask me how I know) it's not impossible to get them back in there.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Jaded Burnout posted:

How does that work, by the way? Do they replace the pins?

If you're handy enough to replace the locks on your house and have a modicum of patience you can rekey them yourself with a youtube video and a kit. The big secret is you need a plug follower (dowel the same size as the cylinder) and a pair of tweezers. I imagine the re-key kits would come with plug followers.

Kwikset also has a product that lets you rekey off a given new key using a little tool, it's not more or less crappy than the rest of their products. Then you just need to get a dozen keys cut to your one which you rekeyed it to match.

https://www.kwikset.com/products/details/deadbolts/980-15-smt.aspx

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

H110Hawk posted:

If you're handy enough to replace the locks on your house and have a modicum of patience you can rekey them yourself with a youtube video and a kit. The big secret is you need a plug follower (dowel the same size as the cylinder) and a pair of tweezers. I imagine the re-key kits would come with plug followers.

Kwikset also has a product that lets you rekey off a given new key using a little tool, it's not more or less crappy than the rest of their products. Then you just need to get a dozen keys cut to your one which you rekeyed it to match.

https://www.kwikset.com/products/details/deadbolts/980-15-smt.aspx

I use the kwikset smart key thing and it was awesome and worked perfectly

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Also if you attempt to rekey yourself and gently caress up a spring, you can just leave that pin out of the lock completely. Missing one pin is not a big deal because besides having two redundant locks(handle and deadbolt) nobody is going to be picking the lock to your house. They'll just kick the door in. The locks are just to keep honest people honest.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
Lowe's did my Kwikset locks.
Front door and garage door had both knob and deadbolt. When I moved it, I wanted to change the locks. I was replacing the hideous front door brass knob/deadbolt anyway, and brought in the garage cylinders. They keyed the garage cylinders same as the new ones I just bought.

My local Lowe's is surprisingly good though. They've got a few people working there who both know what they're talking about and actually care about being good at their jobs, which is rare in retail.

RandomPauI
Nov 24, 2006


Grimey Drawer
I bought this to hold the portable dishwasher (45 pounds) because it it was the cheapest thing that matched the dimensions and that could hold the weight. Except I got things mixed up and it can only hold 20 pounds on top and 10 pounds each on the two lower shelves.

https://www.target.com/p/folding-kitchen-cart-with-two-shelves-and-one-handle-natural-flora-home/-/A-54617304

Will it be okay? Should I add some sort of structural reinforcement?

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
When I went to (one of a few local) Lowe's they didn't have anyone that knew how to rekey locks and instead the guy started to try and sell me an alarm system as an alternative to rekeying after buying a home.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


RandomPauI posted:

I bought this to hold the portable dishwasher (45 pounds) because it it was the cheapest thing that matched the dimensions and that could hold the weight. Except I got things mixed up and it can only hold 20 pounds on top and 10 pounds each on the two lower shelves.

https://www.target.com/p/folding-kitchen-cart-with-two-shelves-and-one-handle-natural-flora-home/-/A-54617304

Will it be okay? Should I add some sort of structural reinforcement?

Make your own safety assessments as always but.. I tend to find that the weight ratings are quite conservative, you're probably fine.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

RandomPauI posted:

I bought this to hold the portable dishwasher (45 pounds) because it it was the cheapest thing that matched the dimensions and that could hold the weight. Except I got things mixed up and it can only hold 20 pounds on top and 10 pounds each on the two lower shelves.

https://www.target.com/p/folding-kitchen-cart-with-two-shelves-and-one-handle-natural-flora-home/-/A-54617304

Will it be okay? Should I add some sort of structural reinforcement?

Those weight ratings are assuming you are putting 10lbs right in the middle of the shelf. If the weight is distributed closer to the shelf supports it will hold more, whether it will hold enough you'll have to find out the hard way. As for reinforcement (assuming you don't care about the folding feature) you might be able to just screw the shelves into the legs to reinforce them. If that still feels iffy get some small corner braces https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Corner-Brace-Value-Pack-20-Pack-18564/202034301

If all else fails just put it on a furniture dolly https://www.target.com/p/mobile-dolly-roller-with-4-locking-wheels-white-stalwart/-/A-54313818

RandomPauI
Nov 24, 2006


Grimey Drawer
I've thought about getting a furniture dolly for my fridge, actually!

My studio's kitchen only has enough space for a mini-fridge, but the fridge it came with is a full-sized one that was resting on the carpet. So I put a square of plywood under it just to keep it from overheating on the carpet. It's an ugly kludge but it works.

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


A few weeks ago I asked for suggestions about my house and the sewer line. A plumber I got in touch with about it said they didn't do side sewer cleanouts and recommended someone else to me. I had no idea what a side sewer was and when googling it I found what I'm assuming are my city plans and they're confusing/concerning. My house is 3808. Can someone translate this for me? First, it looks like my downspouts are tied in directly to the sewer? And they go through my neighbors property before hitting the city sewer lines? What is SP? What is that 2" C._.F. next to SP? How badly am I about to get hosed?

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

First, it looks like my downspouts are tied in directly to the sewer? And they go through my neighbors property before hitting the city sewer lines?

Yes that appears to be the case.

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

What is SP? What is that 2" C._.F. next to SP? How badly am I about to get hosed?

I'm no water tube expert (perhaps the plumbing thread can help if this is off the mark) but I'm going to say that "CIF" (or "CIP") is a 2" cast iron fitting or cast iron pipe. SP probably the connection to the sump pump? I know y'all have those for your lovely basements. SK I would assume is a sink. Perhaps this will help?
https://s3.amazonaws.com/ResearchDocuments/Prod/8-15-2011/usacoe_Plumb.pdf

All the [number]d by the road is probably the number of feet deep the pipes are buried.

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


Jaded Burnout posted:

Yes that appears to be the case.


I'm no water tube expert (perhaps the plumbing thread can help if this is off the mark) but I'm going to say that "CIF" (or "CIP") is a 2" cast iron fitting or cast iron pipe. SP probably the connection to the sump pump? I know y'all have those for your lovely basements. SK I would assume is a sink. Perhaps this will help?
https://s3.amazonaws.com/ResearchDocuments/Prod/8-15-2011/usacoe_Plumb.pdf

All the [number]d by the road is probably the number of feet deep the pipes are buried.

To my knowledge I do not have a sump pump but that appears to be about where my crawl space access is behind the house (I don't have a basement). Would that red line between my house and the neighbors that says 6" means the sewer line is 6" down? That seems awfully shallow. If that is the property line my neighbor replaced his fence a couple of years ago. I wonder if that's relevant.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Pretty sure the #" is the diameter of the pipe.

Maybe SP stands for poo poo Pipe :v:

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Yeah it'll be a 6" diameter pipe. They don't have the depths for them on your property because the city isn't going to be digging up your property to run gas lines or whatever. They'll be digging up the street and don't want to hit the sewer.

SP could be a standpipe.

Anyway your question was how gigafucked are you, I'd say not, though you may need to coordinate/negotiate with your neighbour so I hope you're good friends. 6" is a lot of pipe to clog.

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal
Yeah SP = stack pipe.
http://www.seattle.gov/dpd/appdocs/sidesewer/howtoreadasidesewercard.pdf
I recognize those cards anywhere. Unfortunately for my neighborhood they were never updated since 1980?? At least that's the last entry that's dated on the other side of mine.

abelwingnut
Dec 23, 2002


first off, i am not a home improvement expert. far loving from it.

i'm trying to speed up how fast my bath tub/shower hybrid thing drains water. i tried drano, and that helped a bit, but still the water starts to stand after about 90s of the shower being on, and it's just kind of weird and unsanitary ultimately.

i took off the cap to the drain, and thought i might be able to see something down the drain. what i found was that there is...no pipe going down like i expected. i took about a 9" screwdriver, kept poking down there, but all i could contact was some sort of base. i jostled the screwdriver at about every angle i could--just base.

is this a normal type of bath tub/shower? if so, how should i proceed to help speed up the drainage?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

abelwingnut posted:

first off, i am not a home improvement expert. far loving from it.

i'm trying to speed up how fast my bath tub/shower hybrid thing drains water. i tried drano, and that helped a bit, but still the water starts to stand after about 90s of the shower being on, and it's just kind of weird and unsanitary ultimately.

i took off the cap to the drain, and thought i might be able to see something down the drain. what i found was that there is...no pipe going down like i expected. i took about a 9" screwdriver, kept poking down there, but all i could contact was some sort of base. i jostled the screwdriver at about every angle i could--just base.

is this a normal type of bath tub/shower? if so, how should i proceed to help speed up the drainage?

Get a long plastic hair hook snake thing, gloves, plastic bag of sorts, and a strong stomach. They're $5 at home depot. Jam that sucker in there as far as it will go, kinda wiggle and work it down. Then pull it out. Be careful of the caustic drain pipe dissolver you poured down there - don't do that again. If you're lucky it's covered in hair and goop. Do this until it stops bringing up chunks.

If that doesn't work you will need to snake the drain properly.

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


Charles posted:

Yeah SP = stack pipe.
http://www.seattle.gov/dpd/appdocs/sidesewer/howtoreadasidesewercard.pdf
I recognize those cards anywhere. Unfortunately for my neighborhood they were never updated since 1980?? At least that's the last entry that's dated on the other side of mine.

Mine said 1997 I think. That is also where my bathroom is so that answers that.

Are downspouts being tied directly to sewer lines common? I didn't realize that was a thing so I never gave it much thought. Can main sewers get clogged from debris?

abelwingnut
Dec 23, 2002


H110Hawk posted:

Get a long plastic hair hook snake thing, gloves, plastic bag of sorts, and a strong stomach. They're $5 at home depot. Jam that sucker in there as far as it will go, kinda wiggle and work it down. Then pull it out. Be careful of the caustic drain pipe dissolver you poured down there - don't do that again. If you're lucky it's covered in hair and goop. Do this until it stops bringing up chunks.

If that doesn't work you will need to snake the drain properly.

this?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Harris-20-in-Hair-Hook-Drain-Snake-Unclogger-3-Pack-3HAIR-HOOK/307976977

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

abelwingnut posted:

first off, i am not a home improvement expert. far loving from it.

i'm trying to speed up how fast my bath tub/shower hybrid thing drains water. i tried drano, and that helped a bit, but still the water starts to stand after about 90s of the shower being on, and it's just kind of weird and unsanitary ultimately.

i took off the cap to the drain, and thought i might be able to see something down the drain. what i found was that there is...no pipe going down like i expected. i took about a 9" screwdriver, kept poking down there, but all i could contact was some sort of base. i jostled the screwdriver at about every angle i could--just base.

is this a normal type of bath tub/shower? if so, how should i proceed to help speed up the drainage?
Its normal. If you google image search tub drain pipe you'll get an idea of what you're poking into. It can be hard to hit the horizontal pipe, but its there, going straight into your wall.

^^^^^ yes, that's what you want to start with. Hopefully it's enough.

abelwingnut
Dec 23, 2002


thanks for the help!

i had no idea drano would be a bad solution. isn't this exactly what it's made for? :confused:

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

That. If you or a loved one have long hair that thing is about to change how you view plumbing. Get a drain screen too. If you have a flat one it's cheap and easy, if it pops up use this:

OXO Good Grips Silicone Drain Protector for Pop-Up & Regular Drains https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00OCEBMFM/

abelwingnut posted:

thanks for the help!

i had no idea drano would be a bad solution. isn't this exactly what it's made for? :confused:

It's super caustic. There is almost always a better way to get a clog out. They aren't the ones who have to come along and open up the drain that it failed to open potentially burning themselves in the process, and I believe it damages some pipe types just by sitting in there.

H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Oct 1, 2019

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

Mine said 1997 I think. That is also where my bathroom is so that answers that.

Are downspouts being tied directly to sewer lines common? I didn't realize that was a thing so I never gave it much thought. Can main sewers get clogged from debris?

No, they're not. A lot of cities/systems like to keep their surface runoff separate from their sewer. Sewer flow rates are a bit more constant and easier to manage the scale of and therefore treat. Runoff is as predicable as the weather. You don't want your treatment plants overflowing if there's a deluge.

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

Mine said 1997 I think. That is also where my bathroom is so that answers that.

Are downspouts being tied directly to sewer lines common? I didn't realize that was a thing so I never gave it much thought. Can main sewers get clogged from debris?

kid sinister posted:

No, they're not. A lot of cities/systems like to keep their surface runoff separate from their sewer. Sewer flow rates are a bit more constant and easier to manage the scale of and therefore treat. Runoff is as predicable as the weather. You don't want your treatment plants overflowing if there's a deluge.

Unfortunately it's reality in Seattle, we have Combined Sewer Overflow in a lot of neighborhoods where it dumps into the canal / lake if it gets overwhelmed. That's why they have grants for rain barrels and rain gardens, and any new house in those neighborhoods has the gutters run into a giant french drain thing. The PVC at the bottom is slotted.



I don't feel like digging through my pics to find the completed project, but there's a rain garden on top of it now.

edit: I'm trying to find out how my gutters drain; it's not marked on the sewer card. I'm going to borrow an inspection cam from someone I know.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
Re: drain cleaning. Fought with a slow shower drain in my house that I attributed to my wife's hair for months with various drain cleaners. Tried one of the hair hook things and didn't get a hell of a lot of hair out with it. Finally clicked that my water is real drat hard in this house, dumped some baking soda into the drain and chased it with some vinegar and it solved all of my problems.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

Are downspouts being tied directly to sewer lines common? I didn't realize that was a thing so I never gave it much thought. Can main sewers get clogged from debris?

I've no idea how common it is even in my neck of the woods but my house does it that way. And yeah absolutely they can get clogged from debris.

Mine has what they call an "interceptor" which acts I guess sort of like a p-trap, and when that gets clogged with stones from the driveway my entire sewer line backs up. It used to be that the water company owned it despite being under my land, but at some point that got changed so the homeowner owns everything up to the boundary, so now I own a lovely temperamental sewage connection and am responsible for its upkeep. Thanks for that.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

Final Blog Entry posted:

Re: drain cleaning. Fought with a slow shower drain in my house that I attributed to my wife's hair for months with various drain cleaners. Tried one of the hair hook things and didn't get a hell of a lot of hair out with it. Finally clicked that my water is real drat hard in this house, dumped some baking soda into the drain and chased it with some vinegar and it solved all of my problems.

FYI, the baking soda was pointless. Hard water is mineral deposits, and you were right to treat it with vinegar/acid (adding white vinegar to the rinse cycle of a washing machine is a common way to not have hard water deposits on clothes.)

All the baking soda did was sit there and make some CO2 when you added the vinegar...it made some cool looking bubbles and sounds, but in the end all it really did was reduce the effectiveness of the vinegar by reducing the acidity.

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Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
My toilet gurgles/bubbles after flushing sometimes; I'm guessing the vent pipe is blocked somewhere. It's a three story house so I'm not keen on hopping up on the roof to look; where does this fall on "ignore it" to "call a plumber NOW"?

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