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Sepist posted:What, these? The best part about this approach is that it would take more time versus just drilling hole(s).
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Sep 13, 2019 20:16
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Sepist posted:What, these? Probaly loads of joists are under where a cast iron tub used to be?
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Sep 13, 2019 20:45
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There's still a cast iron tub up there. The second floor overhangs the first floor a bit , so the cast iron tub is sitting on the exterior wall framing as well.
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Sep 13, 2019 22:03
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Sepist posted:Fortunately (I guess), in the span of 4 feet I have 11!!!! joists because the builder was smoking crack, so I guess the second floor is secure. they should just make the whole house out of joists
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Sep 14, 2019 03:20
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standard joists that aren't like engineered are designed to still provide stability for a maximum protrusion of 1/3 into the beam itself. Beyond that, sistering joists is how you would strengthen them if somebody did gently caress up. It's also close to a structural wall. But yeah probably some single idiot contractor did that or some previous owner.
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Sep 14, 2019 06:22
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Blindeye posted:I'd trust nothing in your house based on that picture. Thread title.
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Sep 14, 2019 07:28
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I think I need to have my HVAC refrigerant lines rerun. The previous owner moved the outdoor units and welded/buried an additional ~60 feet of line to get to the new location, and one of the lines has had a slow leak ever since. In addition, both sets of lines are basically run over the ceiling and down the wall right above the master bedroom and have started making loud noises whenever an AC unit kicks on or off. My units are 11 years old but are still in good shape, so I think the best thing to do is run entirely new lines over a different route - ideally they will go as directly as possible over the 2nd floor guest bedroom, and then drop down and go through the large garage attic directly to the units. I figure this has a good chance of fixing the leak issue, will solve the stupid noise that wakes me up all the time, and my house will no longer use buried refrigerant lines which was dumb in the first place. The lines will also go from about 120 feet in total length (half outside underground) to more like 80, all inside. I scheduled a couple companies to come out and quote it but hoped to get some thoughts before I meet with them. 1. For two 5 ton R410 units, I am expecting this to cost about $2,000. Does that seem reasonable? I expect some drywall will have to be cut but hopefully not a huge amount. 2. Is it worth replacing the units at the same time, if I think they have 5-10 more years in them? Is there anything special I should make sure to get to future-proof these new lines? 3. Is this super unusual? I got a little bit of whining on the phone from one company - is there something other than a standard residential HVAC company, where this would be a more typical job?
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Sep 16, 2019 20:00
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I'm looking to get some plants for the inside of the house. I'd like to get a couple hanging ones for the kitchen, lots of light as the hooks are right next to the sliding door, and maybe a couple floor plants for the living room, not as much light. Any recommendations?
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Sep 22, 2019 22:35
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I left for an overnight camping trip and as I arrived at the camp ground, I was alerted by SmartThings that my water sensor I placed in my AC drip pan had detected moisture. So I cut power to the AC while I was gone and came back this afternoon to find that indeed my condensate drip pipe was clogged and the water had backed up into the drip pan, but luckily only slightly. Only half a cup of water maybe. If not for that sensor, it probably would have flooded over the drip pan eventually and caused a significant amount of damage. So long story short A++ would get smart home stuff again. Also make sure to snake and bleach your drip lines on occasion. Even though I bleached mine when I moved in, I did not appreciate how much crap could be in a 3/4" line. After I ran my pipe auger through it, and hooked up my shop vac, what came out looked like brown throw up (and a gallon of water) 
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Sep 22, 2019 23:59
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Is bleaching it really necessary? I just shopvac it every 6 months or so. When we moved in it pulled a ton of moisture and junk, but since then it just pulls a tiny bit
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Sep 23, 2019 01:06
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The bleach supposedly inhibits new algae growth. My line was so clogged that my shop vac couldn't even suck the clog out, so I figured why not try it.
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Sep 23, 2019 02:00
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StormDrain posted:Who did your layout, Helen Keller? Ghostnuke posted:aside from that mrs lincoln, how was the play? Got my TV mounted in the house! No picture of the one in the office yet. The play was great, thank you for asking! 
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Sep 24, 2019 22:50
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SpartanIvy posted:The bleach supposedly inhibits new algae growth. My line was so clogged that my shop vac couldn't even suck the clog out, so I figured why not try it. bleach breaks down in a matter of hours, there's no way it's doing anything after a day or two, especially with water flushing it out. it's also bad for PVC or ABS lines (eats the glue), and bad for your siding if your drain line drips onto your house's siding use a product intended for the purpose, like this stuff I just randomly googled and have no opinion of brandwise: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Web-AC-Line-Cleaner-for-Air-Conditioner-Drain-Lines-WACL8/100140005 or failing that, use white vinegar, which also won't act as a long-term preventative but at least it won't damage the drain lines There's also these pellets you can put in the pan to slowly dissolve and keep things clean, supposedly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008A3UCYS/ Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Sep 24, 2019 |
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Sep 24, 2019 23:13
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I have a 1450 square foot house. Just got a quote for $5500 to replace the furnace. I’m in Colorado so I don’t expect it to be cheap, but from googling I expected more like $3500. Anybody done this recently? Still getting more quotes.
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Sep 25, 2019 00:21
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SimpleCoax posted:I have a 1450 square foot house. Just got a quote for $5500 to replace the furnace. I’m in Colorado so I don’t expect it to be cheap, but from googling I expected more like $3500. Anybody done this recently? Still getting more quotes. "Hello, how much for you to furnace my house?......$5500???!!!" (you need to be WAY more specific - fuel, size, brand, etc)
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Sep 25, 2019 05:55
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H110Hawk posted:Got my TV mounted in the house! No picture of the one in the office yet. The play was great, thank you for asking! I'm so triggered by the can light placement. It's not diffused enough to be ambient light, not directional enough to be accent light, and not focused enough to be task lighting. It's just in no man's land. Would be good for the end of the night to let everyone know that it's closing time. Congratulations on the healthy child and getting the TV mounted though!
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Sep 25, 2019 06:45
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StormDrain posted:I'm so triggered by the can light placement. It's not diffused enough to be ambient light, not directional enough to be accent light, and not focused enough to be task lighting. It's just in no man's land. Thanks! The can lights are loving awful. 3 of the 8 don't work due to lovely GU-10 bases. It's on "the list" and it was like that when we bought it. I try to leave them off if I can help it. One of these days.
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Sep 25, 2019 07:09
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Tfw you're fine minutes late getting home with the generator and your basement floods Unrelated, any tips for fixing sticking casement windows?
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Sep 29, 2019 23:07
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Can't tell if I'm being too scrupulous about some drywall work I had done. A contractor my friend recommended did it, and I wasn't too impressed with some details. They greenboarded and cement boarded my main bathroom which is 75 sqft. The contractor told me that I should sand smooth before painting..fine. Some of the outlets have gaps between their mud and a "normal" size outlet cover, so I had to use large ones to hide them. There is an area of the greenboard that got blown out so it doesn't sit flush with the wall. It's where the molding goes so it needs to be straight. There's a part of the cement board where it meets the tub lip that is bulged out, so the tiles aren't going to sit straight, and lastly they put the cement board right up to the tub on the back panel. There should be a small gap so water doesn't wick up. I normally do this work myself but I was pressed for time. I brought these problems up to the GC and he dismissed it as good work..
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Sep 30, 2019 18:54
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Sepist posted:Can't tell if I'm being too scrupulous about some drywall work I had done. A contractor my friend recommended did it, and I wasn't too impressed with some details. They greenboarded and cement boarded my main bathroom which is 75 sqft. The contractor told me that I should sand smooth before painting..fine. Some of the outlets have gaps between their mud and a "normal" size outlet cover, so I had to use large ones to hide them. There is an area of the greenboard that got blown out so it doesn't sit flush with the wall. It's where the molding goes so it needs to be straight. There's a part of the cement board where it meets the tub lip that is bulged out, so the tiles aren't going to sit straight, and lastly they put the cement board right up to the tub on the back panel. There should be a small gap so water doesn't wick up. Can you post a picture or three?
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Sep 30, 2019 18:57
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H110Hawk posted:Can you post a picture or three? I'll edit this post in like an hour with a few pictures of what I haven't fixed yet. Waiting for grout release I put on the floor to dry so I can't get in there. Edit: Missing 1/4 gap from tub:  This one is really hard to see in photos but super obvious in person. You can see the mesh tape pulled away from the cement board the bulge is so bad:  Broken greenboard  Here's one more for good measure: 
Sepist fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Sep 30, 2019 |
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Sep 30, 2019 19:03
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Did you already make all payments?
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Sep 30, 2019 19:39
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The Dave posted:Did you already make all payments? Yea
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Sep 30, 2019 19:41
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Sepist posted:Yea What did the city inspector say? Also ask them directly with those pictures if they won't make it better.
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Sep 30, 2019 20:07
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H110Hawk posted:What did the city inspector say? Also ask them directly with those pictures if they won't make it better. It's water under the bridge at this point. The guy is paid, I need to get the bathroom complete before the baby comes so I'm not gonna dick around with chasing mistakes. The only consolation is my friend won't refer any more jobs to them as they were one of his main contractors
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Sep 30, 2019 20:15
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Sepist posted:It's water under the bridge at this point. The guy is paid, I need to get the bathroom complete before the baby comes so I'm not gonna dick around with chasing mistakes. The only consolation is my friend won't refer any more jobs to them as they were one of his main contractors I mean, "water under the bridge" is perhaps a pretty apt comparison if the waterproofing in your shower wasn't done correctly? This is why they're bonded. Do you have a second functional bathroom? (I say this as someone who has a newborn, this sucks but of all the things to raise a stink over waterproofing a shower is one of them. Crappy cutouts for lightswitches is annoying but not unmanageable.)
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Sep 30, 2019 20:34
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H110Hawk posted:I mean, "water under the bridge" is perhaps a pretty apt comparison if the waterproofing in your shower wasn't done correctly? This is why they're bonded. Do you have a second functional bathroom? (I say this as someone who has a newborn, this sucks but of all the things to raise a stink over waterproofing a shower is one of them. Crappy cutouts for lightswitches is annoying but not unmanageable.) Also, where the bulge is and the tiles won't be able to sit straight, it seems highly likely that those tiles will crack, and you'll be reminded of the shoddy work every time the tub is used. That's on top of any leaking. The leaking is definitely more serious, but don't underestimate the power of a forever-daily reminder that the contractor did a cruddy job. I speak from experience on this.
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Sep 30, 2019 20:55
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I'm gonna fix the bulge, didnt mean to make it seem otherwise. The contractors not gonna fix it since he thinks its adequate and hes been paid
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Sep 30, 2019 22:33
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I have a 15 year old Kenmore Elite stove and lately it has been getting way too hot. I tried running a cleaning cycle but after 20 minutes or so it started smoking and then an alarm on the stove started beeping and it shut off. Does anyone know what it could be? I'm guessing there is a thermostatic controller that is messed up but I have no idea if that is an easy fix or not.
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Oct 1, 2019 05:39
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therobit posted:I have a 15 year old Kenmore Elite stove and lately it has been getting way too hot. I tried running a cleaning cycle but after 20 minutes or so it started smoking and then an alarm on the stove started beeping and it shut off. Does anyone know what it could be? I'm guessing there is a thermostatic controller that is messed up but I have no idea if that is an easy fix or not. Check out https://www.repairclinic.com/, they have a lot of how-to videos and parts at good prices. You should at least be able to get an idea if it's worth your time or money to repair vs replace.
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Oct 1, 2019 10:57
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therobit posted:I have a 15 year old Kenmore Elite stove and lately it has been getting way too hot. I tried running a cleaning cycle but after 20 minutes or so it started smoking and then an alarm on the stove started beeping and it shut off. Does anyone know what it could be? I'm guessing there is a thermostatic controller that is messed up but I have no idea if that is an easy fix or not. Had to replace the thermostat on my oven a few years back. All that was required was pulling the stove away from the wall, taking off the back panel, unclipping the lead for the thermostat and removing two screws that held it to the stove body. Installation was the reverse of removal. There's usually two on an oven, one for temperature control, and then a high limit cutoff. Sounds like you might have hit the high limit cutoff. If you've got a multimeter, you can unhook your thermostat and test it to see if its resistance is within spec. You'll have to look up the specifications for your particular model though. They can, and do, get out of whack over time.
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Oct 1, 2019 16:53
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We installed gutters on our new build home this last spring, and because of a variety of drainage reasons, the downspouts all connect to underground PVC pipes with popup emitters that discharge 15-25' away from the house. Now that we're approaching winter in MN, I'm wondering what to do about the discharge pipes. I don't know that I want to leave them connected due to freezing, right? They're not buried very deep, and water does collect in the discharge end of the pipe because of the elbow and popup. The water only collects for an hour or two after rains, because there is a weep hole at the lowest point of the elbow to let everything discharge slowly, but I'm sure freezing temperatures will freeze the elbow and popup eventually, eventually backing up all the way to the downpipe at the side of the house. I do have all of the discharge chutes that belong to all the downpipes from the roof. Is it safest to simply remove the coupling part to the PVC pipes and reinstall those? Run some sort of warming wire down the pipes to keep them clear?
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Oct 1, 2019 18:01
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Being worried about ice damming is good. I'd probably assume that if the ground is frozen to the depth of the drain pipes it's not a lot of water coming down them either. If you have an air gap at the bottom of the gutter to the top of the underground pipe, then there is an escape route for water that's coming down the downspout. If your underground pipes with weep holes freeze solid and break, it's probably not a big deal since they're not solid to begin with, they now have more weeps.
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Oct 1, 2019 18:27
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My garage door now wants to open on its own, constantly, forever. I've killed the circuit breaker and now need to think about how I want to deal with this
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Oct 2, 2019 21:20
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QuarkJets posted:My garage door now wants to open on its own, constantly, forever. I've killed the circuit breaker and now need to think about how I want to deal with this Unwire the button from the terminals and see if it stops. I bet something has gotten jostled together. Also very October appropriate, also drat we've had this thread title for a year.
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Oct 2, 2019 21:45
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Has anything screwed up the obstruction beam? Or perhaps something dangling off the bottom that trips it? Also I don't know what the weather is doing but sometimes the changes cause things to move and maybe it needs to be adjusted.
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Oct 2, 2019 22:32
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QuarkJets posted:My garage door now wants to open on its own, constantly, forever. I've killed the circuit breaker and now need to think about how I want to deal with this What exactly is it doing? There are a bunch of adjustments on garage doors, or it could be a stuck button or something.
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Oct 2, 2019 22:51
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QuarkJets posted:My garage door now wants to open on its own, constantly, forever. I've killed the circuit breaker and now need to think about how I want to deal with this Mine reverses at the bottom randomly despite numerous adjustments. At 26 years old, gently caress it I’m replacing it with something quieter.
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Oct 2, 2019 23:24
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My house came with a satellite dish that has remained unused for the past few years and will continue to be so for the foreseeable future. Should I bother removing it or just leave it be?
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Oct 3, 2019 02:58
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Dazerbeams posted:My house came with a satellite dish that has remained unused for the past few years and will continue to be so for the foreseeable future. Should I bother removing it or just leave it be? Are you wanting to fix the holes they drilled into your roof for it as well?
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Oct 3, 2019 04:35
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