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Hondo garage makes a great phone mount. Used it on a BDR trip and the phone never loosened up even with the bike bouncing all over. A little $$$ but worth it. https://shop-hondogarage.com X grips are ok, but they feel loose sometimes and I’ve had to re glue the end nubs a few times.
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Sep 29, 2019 23:23
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Has anyone ever tried one of those armband things that joggers use, but obviously mounted on the lower arm? Seems like that would be a pretty good solution for most use cases, without having to worry about vibrations (or my main worry, which would be leaving the phone on the bike, because I'm a numpty)
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Sep 29, 2019 23:27
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Redvenom posted:I used to run crash bars on an original model fazer1000, and to those I zip tied cutouts from an A3 drawing folder. That with the combats, mesh jacket and cracked fairings made me look the part of the courier I always wanted to be. I'll see if I can find some pictures a bit later. It don't have to be pretty, it just has to work:  
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Sep 30, 2019 00:24
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Mirconium posted:Question: so what's the deal with copper headgaskets? They seem like a really attractive option, especially if you want compression to the moon. Are there a bunch of drawbacks to them, or do people just not use them because they're expensive?
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Sep 30, 2019 02:48
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AuxiliaryPatroller posted:Hondo garage makes a great phone mount. Used it on a BDR trip and the phone never loosened up even with the bike bouncing all over. A little $$$ but worth it. https://shop-hondogarage.com https://www.tackform.com/ 85% as good as the Hondo Garage stuff, 35% of the price. It's spring loaded (with a heavy-rear end spring) vs having the ball-detent system. If you're riding rock gardens constantly maybe the Hondo Garage mount would be worth it; for the street the Tackform is plenty solid and it definitely beats the gently caress out of the X-grip.
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Sep 30, 2019 04:53
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If I need GPS I just put my phone in the clear pocket on the top of my tank bag, however I did lose my phone on the freeway once when I had it charging from a battery pack and ran the USB cable to the main portion of the tank bag, with the tension from the cable pulling the phone out. That really sucked because it happened during horrible traffic on the 405 in Orange County, so I didn't even bother trying to go back and get it.
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Sep 30, 2019 06:48
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Redvenom posted:I used to run crash bars on an original model fazer1000, and to those I zip tied cutouts from an A3 drawing folder. That with the combats, mesh jacket and cracked fairings made me look the part of the courier I always wanted to be. I'll see if I can find some pictures a bit later. With the temperature getting down I doubt it'd be much of an issue until May at least, but yes I was planning on leaving the middle uncovered rather than running one big sheet all the way across the front. Redvenom posted:It don't have to be pretty, it just has to work: Yes, this.
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Sep 30, 2019 09:04
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MetaJew posted:Do any of y'all have experience on mounting a ram mount to the SV650S? It looks like you can just about squeeze the mount to the left clip-on/handle bar. Is this the best option? Ram has a ton of stock options for mount point, just check them out on rams mount-builder page and select one that fits. 
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Sep 30, 2019 09:49
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Question I'm having trouble finding an answer to- Are all jets for a given carburettor manufacturer, let's say keihin, standard across models? So if I have a range of jets for a crf250 40mm, will they fit an mx41 or 38?
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Oct 1, 2019 14:28
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Shelvocke posted:Question I'm having trouble finding an answer to- I don't think all jets are interchangable between a manufacturer's products, but for your specific example the Keihin FCRs are definitely interchangeable. It's a bit annoying to navigate this site, but you should be able to figure out interchangeability based off the measurements here: https://www.jetsrus.com/FAQs/FAQ_identify_that_jet.htm
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Oct 1, 2019 17:16
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My aftermarket turn signals from the PO are connected like this: I've never actually disconnected them when I'm removing my fairing to change my oil, but today I wanted my fairing all the way off, and now my bike looks like this:  I figured this is as good a time as any to install the Proton 500 signals I've been meaning to put on forever, but it ships with these connectors:  I don't want to just crimp the wires together as I can't remove the fairing completely that way, so what's my preferred way of doing this? It's a bad pic, but I don't have a ton of wire left now that I accidentally ripped it out of the old connector. I need some kind of connectors that can be unplugged easily enough, but I'm also wondering if I should be soldering + wrapping a short 1-2" section of wire on the existing torn off wire? Although that seems unnecessary if I can get whatever connector I buy onto the existing broken short piece. *edit* the green masking tape is just to ID which wire connectors to which connector on the old signals, I had it on there before pulling too hard and ripping out the other connector.
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Oct 1, 2019 19:22
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MomJeans420 posted:
If you want easy and how honda/kawasaki/suzuki do it, use these: https://www.amazon.com/Qibaok-Ratch...69954384&sr=8-6 Make sure you use the barrel/female part on the bike-side positive wire so it can't come into contact with ground when hot. Don't worry about extending the wire if you'll still be able to remove the connections easily.
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Oct 1, 2019 19:27
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What is the brand/name of those cool splices someone posted on here ages ago?
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Oct 1, 2019 20:07
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wago?
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Oct 1, 2019 20:11
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Katosabi posted:If you want easy and how honda/kawasaki/suzuki do it, use these: The correct answer but I'll add that narva or other major brand terminals have significantly better material quality and much stronger crimp strength than AliExpress specials.
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Oct 1, 2019 20:15
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CheddarGoblin posted:wago? No, I don't think so. I think it was like an in-line splice that didn't require tools.
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Oct 1, 2019 20:38
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Finger Prince posted:No, I don't think so. I think it was like an in-line splice that didn't require tools. Posilocks?
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Oct 1, 2019 20:52
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Katosabi posted:Posilocks? Yeah, those are the ones! https://www.posi-products.com/ Anyway maybe they'd be a good solution for the turn signals.
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Oct 1, 2019 20:59
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I just bought like a bucket of weathersealed connectors on Amazon for ten bucks and used those. Granted, I had to solder them in place but I like the end result.
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Oct 1, 2019 21:01
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Finger Prince posted:Yeah, those are the ones! They don't work as a quick disconnect because you have to thread the cap over the wire, but they work good for their intended use.
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Oct 1, 2019 21:20
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Those posi-locks look cool, just bought a small 9 pack but I'd like quick disconnects for my fairings. Re: name brand connectors vs the ones Katosabi linked, it looks like Amazon is all generic stuff on unknown quality. I misread Hilitchi as Hitachi and figured these would at least hold up to strong vibrations, but I'm not sure it's worth going for those and a separate crimping tool over just trying the cheaper set. I know people on the tools thread on AI have strong feelings on crimpers, but I never saved any recommendations, and I rarely mess with wiring anyway (though it's nice to have the necessary tools around). I was looking at these crimpers if I went with the Hilitchi set of terminals, but I'm not sure it's worth ~twice the cost for still not high end equipment. At least it's just my turn signals, if anything comes loose it's not like I'll lose power on the freeway.
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Oct 1, 2019 21:38
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If you can stand to wait a day or two over Amazon, this place is legit for all OEM/high quality connectors: https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Bullet_Connectors/bullet_connectors.html e: tool-wise everyone seems to have their opinion; I don't think you need the $70 crimpers easternbeaver has for 4 connections, but $20 crimpers are better than using needle-nose pliers (which I've done, and now Slavvy is gonna come by and shame me for it) Gonna Send It fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Oct 1, 2019 |
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Oct 1, 2019 21:43
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I have a $200 narva crimper and a $20 AliExpress crimper and the end result difference is very small. The quality of the terminals is the main thing, the crap ones are really fragile and tear/crack easily, struggle to clamp the wire effectively etc
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Oct 1, 2019 21:43
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I've had some success with [url="Glarks 6 Sets 2 3 4 6 8 12 Pin Sealed Gray Male and Female Auto Waterproof Electrical Wire Connector Plug 22-16AWG Connector for Motorcycle, Scooter, Car, Truck, Boats https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9XNFGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8p-KDbYVJFY6M"]this style[/url] of automotive sealed connector too, a little better then the bullets imo
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Oct 2, 2019 00:41
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http://www.cycleterminal.com/turn-signal-connectors.html I don't know what Triumph's OEM signal terminals look like and I don't see them called out separately here, but dude carries a shitload of different terminals that you may be able to match with what should've been on the harness from the factory. Prices are a little high but not ridiculously so, and he ships USPS priority so it arrives quickly. You can also just grab the part numbers and order from DigiKey or some other bulk electronics supplier if you want to save a couple of bucks. Elviscat posted:I've had some success with [url="Glarks 6 Sets 2 3 4 6 8 12 Pin Sealed Gray Male and Female Auto Waterproof Electrical Wire Connector Plug 22-16AWG Connector for Motorcycle, Scooter, Car, Truck, Boats https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9XNFGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8p-KDbYVJFY6M"]this style[/url] of automotive sealed connector too, a little better then the bullets imo Deutsch connectors, weatherpaks, etc. are kinda bulky for turn signals
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Oct 2, 2019 03:10
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Jazzzzz posted:http://www.cycleterminal.com/turn-signal-connectors.html They are loving awesome for everything else though.
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Oct 2, 2019 05:02
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yergacheffe posted:I don't think all jets are interchangable between a manufacturer's products, but for your specific example the Keihin FCRs are definitely interchangeable. It's a bit annoying to navigate this site, but you should be able to figure out interchangeability based off the measurements here: I was hoping you'd come out of the woodwork knowing you've done this exact same conversion. Going to get an 08 crf250 carb today, and start off ordering 45/170 jets and see where that gets me. Going to fab an adapter out of fuel filler hose, or maybe just pay up if that doesn't work. Thanks for the link, that's a dead useful resource!
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Oct 2, 2019 13:21
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Shelvocke posted:I was hoping you'd come out of the woodwork knowing you've done this exact same conversion. You must have me confused with someone else, I rarely post in this subforum. Although coincidentally, I am actually right in the middle of converting my XR600R to use an fcr haha. I'm guessing you're doing the same? Either that or you're converting for a drz, but I think those guys use 45/160. If it's an XR600R though I'd love to talk shop. I could send you a 3d printed adapter to hook up the carb to the airbox.
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Oct 2, 2019 16:00
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yergacheffe posted:You must have me confused with someone else, I rarely post in this subforum. Although coincidentally, I am actually right in the middle of converting my XR600R to use an fcr haha. I'm guessing you're doing the same? Either that or you're converting for a drz, but I think those guys use 45/160. My mistake, thought it was you who gave the advice about the xr650r. Assuming the airbox conversion is the same, I'd love the adapter pattern! Shelvocke fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Oct 2, 2019 |
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Oct 2, 2019 17:50
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Redvenom posted:It don't have to be pretty, it just has to work: My morning brain anagrammed your username to Revdemon.
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Oct 3, 2019 11:31
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   Today was babby's first engine removal. The CT125 actually runs fine AFAIK (kicks on, revs, and idles OK), so aside from checking valves I am not planning on doing anything internal to the motor - it is tempting from a "learning stuff" standpoint but I've got plenty on my plate with the rest of the bike. Did notice the sparkplug was sooty as, so will have a play with the carbie later. I would like to try and spruce up the appearance of the motor/gearbox while it's all off the bike - I haven't got access to a soda blaster or anything like that, although I do have a Dremel - may try some of the polishing attachments, although I have been warned about not getting the cooling fins too smooth as that inhibits their function. Any ideas for this? I was considering doing aluminium high temp paint for a finish - I especially hate how the crank cover looks with the silver finish peeling off. Looking at it I am guessing some disassembly may be required for aspects of the painting, what does CA reckon would be a sweet spot in terms of effort/outcome? I am doing a bit of a resto and want to improve the bike's looks, but on the other hand I'm a relative novice and my endgame isn't a perfect 10/10 cosmetically - I do intend to beat on it offroad. Also, any tips or tricks for getting rear axle out? This one is being a right pain, have tried all manner of supporting/not supporting/lifting/jiggling the wheel while banging away on it with a mallet and punch from the other side, but to no avail. I've been hitting it with penetrating spray on both sides so I'm hoping it'll eventually let loose. Edit: question about that tank - has those two dents visible in it. Normally I'd strip it, bog, and repaint... but I really like the graphics on it (which seem to be quite rare with no repros available). Would a paintless dent place be able to pull them out, or is it a fool's errand? I'm willing to live with them if it's a huge hassle or expense, but it'd be nice to get it looking undamaged. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 08:00 on Oct 4, 2019 |
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Oct 4, 2019 07:54
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Ethics_Gradient posted:
I like this guy's channel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=channel?UCFEDSSjAp1aIlVmgVrEWAOQ but that may be overkill. Just get some mag wheel cleaner or other aluminum acid based cleaner and use a brush. Be sure to rinse it off. I just took another look and now I think I'd just soak everything in simple green and scrub it off with a brush before seeing how things looked and then go from there. Depends a lot on how nice you want it to look vs. effort. I personally would just clean and mayyyyyybe polish if you want to go nuts but it's a dirt bike so... On the rear axle, you're sure it's ready to come out? No extra little bolt or something that needs to be loosened?
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Oct 4, 2019 15:49
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I'd take those side covers off to strip the coating, clean the gently caress out of the engine, put the whole engine together and spray it with the holes masked off so it's seamless silver everywhere, bolts and all. If you pull the rh cover, watch the gently caress out for the little spring loaded hat on the end of the crank snout; losing any of those little pieces results in instant bottom end destruction. For the axle I'd make triple sure it hasn't got one of those funny nested axle sprocket carrier things and is just a plain nut and bolt setup, then I'd smash the gently caress out of it with a copper or rubber dead blow hammer. I'd suggest not loving with the carb etc based on spark plug color because it tells you nearly nothing, concentrate on putting things together before potentially introducing new problems and see what it's like when you can actually ride it.
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Oct 4, 2019 18:14
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Noticed my rear shock and springarm looking a lot oilier than usual on my KLR. Found a small hole melted through the bottom of the airbox near the crankcase breather hose inlet. What the heck would've caused that? There's plastic much closer to the exhaust that didn't melt. Hot oil out of the crank case somehow?
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Oct 4, 2019 20:50
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Oil doesn't get hot enough to melt plastic, at least not when it's in the air intake. Are you sure it hasn't chafed through mechanically? Or if the oil is even coming out of that hole. Pics?
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Oct 4, 2019 20:57
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Perhaps something rubbing on the airbox when the bike is loaded.
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Oct 4, 2019 21:07
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Slavvy posted:Oil doesn't get hot enough to melt plastic, at least not when it's in the air intake. Gotcha. Definitely melted, though. I think it may have been a loose exhaust heat shield and I didn't notice the melted hole when I reattached the shield about 500 miles ago. I didn't see any melted plastic stuck to the heat shield but it looks like maybe it only got close enough to melt the plastic but didn't make contact? The plastic looks softly melted but still smooth, like nothing actually touched it. Either way, I'm ripping it all open, giving it a good clean, and JB Welding the hole.
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Oct 4, 2019 22:10
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builds character posted:I like this guy's channel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=channel?UCFEDSSjAp1aIlVmgVrEWAOQ Link not working for me but yeah, some of the Youtubers like Really Random Channel and a few others have inspired me (but I'm managing my expectations in terms of my ability and equipment). Totally forgot about Simple Green, good call. I will pick some up at Bunnings next trip I'm out there. No other bolts or anything as far as I can tell, just a standard castle nut with a cotter pin that I've already removed. I whanged it out another cm or so this morning as soon as I started (spacer on exhaust side is almost ready to drop out) so I'll just keep hitting it with penetrating spray and waiting. Worst case I'll press it out when I get the whole swingarm off, although if the rear axle is this bad I have a feeling that swingarm bolt won't go quietly into the gentle night. Should mention my plan is to swap the CT swingarm out with one from a similar vintage XL so I can have passenger footpegs - as near as I can tell it should bolt right up, but will email seller with some measurements prior to buying it. Will also need to source a longer seat from wreckers. Slavvy posted:I'd take those side covers off to strip the coating, clean the gently caress out of the engine, put the whole engine together and spray it with the holes masked off so it's seamless silver everywhere, bolts and all. If you pull the rh cover, watch the gently caress out for the little spring loaded hat on the end of the crank snout; losing any of those little pieces results in instant bottom end destruction. Thanks for the heads up, that does sound familiar re crank case. I forgot to mention that the bike also dies as soon as I put the choke all the way on or off (forget which position kills it) - makes me wonder if the float is stuck, as I had a similar issue in my postie. But that's a valid point, I may save that until I get everything back together and at least make sure it works as well as it did before I go introducing new variables.
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Oct 5, 2019 01:21
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If it's a flappy butterfly choke, which it usually is on old Honda traillies, then yeah you can kill it putting it all the way on and that's pretty normal. Which way is on and which way is off can get super confusing.
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Oct 5, 2019 06:07
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Uggggh is anyone familiar with how difficult it is to replace valve guides on a modern dirt bike? I have a 2015 Husqvarna FC350 that smokes when I rev it. All signs point to valve stem seals leaking. I installed a new piston, then I installed new valve stem seals and it still smokes. I'm gonna pull it apart again and check the play between the valve and the valve guide because I didn't know to look out for that before because I'm an idiot that shouldn't be doing this work but I'm poor and dumb. Who would I go to ask to get this done? Should I bring the head to a dealership for them to replace the guides or is that stupid expensive? I just wanna do wheelies without burning oil.
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Oct 5, 2019 08:40
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