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Thumbtacks posted:it's less a question of "am i using this money in ways it's not intended for" because obviously yeah but it's more a question of "if it's just cosmetic is it irresponsible to use the money for something that isn't repairs" Show us pics?
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Oct 2, 2019 02:10
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Astonishing Wang posted:Will there be potential problems in the future if that same part of the car is damaged again? It's basically not covered any further unless you prove that it was repaired/made whole, right? Well, yeah. Can't claim it twice, and I'll find out about it during the ISO search if you try. Astonishing Wang posted:I'd totally keep the money if it was my Jeep. If you're handy and/or good at junkyarding you can probably get it fixed good enough for waaaay less than $2.5k. Absolutely.
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Oct 2, 2019 02:40
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Thumbtacks posted:It's a 2012 mazda 3, so it's not the newest car, but it's only got like 70k miles on it and I like it and have no real plans to replace it soon. Oof. Sorry I whiffed on that last paragraph. Yeah what's the damage like? Just limited to the door or is it on the body as well?
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Oct 2, 2019 03:43
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Beach Bum posted:Oof. Sorry I whiffed on that last paragraph. It’s pretty much just the door and a bit of the front, here are the two biggest areas I think.   That too one just snaps back into place so I’m not concerned
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Oct 2, 2019 03:59
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Oh hell I had worse on my clapped-out NA Miata and I still sold it for 2k. If I were you I'd use the check elsewhere, I can't imagine that being worth 2.5k down the road on a trade/sale. Make sure any bare metal is taken care of and roll on. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 08:05 on Oct 2, 2019 |
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Oct 2, 2019 05:07
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Thumbtacks posted:It’s pretty much just the door and a bit of the front, here are the two biggest areas I think. Has it gone through the paint, or is it transfer from the other (white?) car? I'd assume the first since you got $2.5k for it. It can probably be made to look much better from a claying/polish PDR guys can do wonders with most dents as well.
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Oct 2, 2019 05:36
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I'd get that detailed for not much money and pocket the rest.
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Oct 2, 2019 06:56
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yeah i believe the other car was gray so that went through the paint. I'll look into getting it detailed, I think I know a guy that can get me a discount.
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Oct 2, 2019 09:35
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Thumbtacks posted:It’s pretty much just the door and a bit of the front, here are the two biggest areas I think. Get an estimate from a paintless dent repair place/guy. You may be pleasantly surprised.
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Oct 2, 2019 14:23
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Is there a car finance thread? I didn't see one in BFC at first glance. I'm trying to figure out a lease for my mother.
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Oct 2, 2019 14:28
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sharkytm posted:Is there a car finance thread? I didn't see one in BFC at first glance. I'm trying to figure out a lease for my mother. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538&pagenumber=575&perpage=40
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Oct 2, 2019 14:37
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Uthor posted:https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538&pagenumber=575&perpage=40 Thanks. It's not quite what I was expecting, but I'll post over there.
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Oct 2, 2019 15:55
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So I'm suffering from "while you're in there-itis" and not sure how far down the rabbit hole I should go. I have a 2012 Honda Odyssey with 80k miles that's been subjected to the fine roads in Michigan for its whole life, though it's not too bad underneath honestly. The front right is making some noise on low speed turns from what I think is the strut mount. I just replaced the front lower control arm on the other side due to the ball joint being loose and had it aligned, so that will likely need to happen again no matter what.  If there were quick struts available from KYB (gently caress monroe or FCS...some no name garbage I assume?) I'd slap those in on both sides and call it a day, but according to their site it looks like it won't happen for a few more months (Available 1st quarter it says). What would you do? Wait a couple months, or just throw a mount at it? Pony up and rent a spring compressor and just buy the parts piecemeal?
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Oct 2, 2019 18:32
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Did your alignment come with a "warranty"? Like hey, bring back it in six months type thing?
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Oct 2, 2019 19:00
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Did your alignment come with a "warranty"? Like hey, bring back it in six months type thing? No idea and I probably already tossed the paperwork.
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Oct 2, 2019 19:11
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If it's really busted, it might be worth trying to replace just the mount. That might just get you by till KYB gets one out there for you. Otherwise, I'd probably take a chance on a set of Monroes up front. Other goons have said they were just fine. I was in a similar position because KYBs hadn't come out for my car, and just kept putting it off, but probably should have just bought what I could. As for an alignment, if you've got a Firestone or Tires Plus near you, I think they still have an alignment for life kind of deal. It was $200 or so, but I think it's a good deal for anybody really and DIYers especially. Otherwise, yeah, you'll probably have to pay for another one (and possibly again if you replace just the mount now and the struts later).
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Oct 2, 2019 20:01
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TPMS - 35 psi Digital Air Compressor - 38 psi Stick/Pencil Pressure Guage - 31 psi (definitely cheap) Analog Dial Pressure Guage - 41 psi (probably cheap) Who do I trust?
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Oct 2, 2019 20:07
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Out of all those, probably TPMS more than the rest. Run by a tire shop and have them validate if you don't want to buy a not-bottom-of-the-barrel dial gauge. If the compressor is decent, that digital gauge is probably repeatable but not accurate.
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Oct 2, 2019 21:37
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nitsuga posted:If it's really busted, it might be worth trying to replace just the mount. That might just get you by till KYB gets one out there for you. Only makes a slight noise at low speed, so I think I'll wait on it and take my chances I guess. Never had a strut mount go bad so not sure how much worse it will get. Only problem is that the car is too long to work on with the garage door closed, so it would suck if poo poo hits the fan this winter and it needs replaced ASAP. Alignment isn't a big deal, but I'll end up forking over another 50-100 bucks later down the line after it's all said and done. Just sucks I didn't notice it before doing the other work.
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Oct 3, 2019 00:36
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Any sources of junkyard parts besides car-part.com? Looking for NC2 Miata taillight lenses but they're expensive AF.
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Oct 3, 2019 00:45
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Does anyone have any experience registering a wagon as a commercial vehicle to get commercial plates, especially in CA? I had this done with my last SUV but that was thru work and they paid for everything. Looking on DMV's website, most of the links are broken (lol) but it seems like you need to get the vehicle weighed by a weighmaster, and then pay tax on the weight. I'm mainly wondering how big an additional cost this will be for montly budgeting purposes if I want to keep parking in those sweet yellow spots.
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Oct 3, 2019 01:03
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blk posted:Any sources of junkyard parts besides car-part.com? Looking for NC2 Miata taillight lenses but they're expensive AF. eBay, with the -nobs filter on the search.
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Oct 3, 2019 10:26
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I have a 2003 Pontiac vibe with quite a bit of rust on the undercarriage. I asked my local auto mechanic about any services to derust the underside, but the shop he referred me too wanted a grand for it. Im going about figuring out my options. Should I invest the money buy a car jack and just do it myself? Or is derusting something the common man can afford at an auto shop.blk posted:Any sources of junkyard parts besides car-part.com? Looking for NC2 Miata taillight lenses but they're expensive AF. Did anyone say Pick n Pull? zaepg fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Oct 3, 2019 |
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Oct 3, 2019 19:54
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zaepg posted:Should I invest the money buy a car jack and just do it myself? You mean jack stands, right? If you want to do basically anything as a home mechanic you'll want some, so my advice is to buy them regardless. They're cheap and a necessary safety precaution. If you're really cheap you can use your car's scissor jack to lift it up onto the jack stands, but yeah, a hydraulic trolly jack makes things so much quicker and easier. In regards to your question, even with the jack stands it sounds like something that'd be kind of miserable to do without a lift... maybe you know someone with a creeper you could borrow at least?
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Oct 3, 2019 22:20
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I'm m still under mechanical warranty but I'm wondering if there might be someone that can shed some light before I'm back in the dealer (booked in for next week) When the car is running warm, I'm seeing white/light gray smoke out of the exhaust in the reversing camera/rear mirror when at low revs. Car is a 2018 Honda Civic 1.5L Turbo Engine CVT Transmission
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Oct 4, 2019 00:46
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Is this smoke: - dense - lingering & not dissipating - occurring irrespective of engine temps (cold start to warmed up)?
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Oct 4, 2019 02:58
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- Kind of dense. Quite large plume when at lower revs - dissipates pretty quickly - yeah I've noticed it with both but it seems to be more when it's warm
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Oct 4, 2019 03:19
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Coolant leak. Possibly blown head gasket, worse: cracked head. Worst: cracked block How's the oil?
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Oct 4, 2019 03:29
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PainterofCrap posted:Is this smoke: Hi, what's the diagnosis decision tree based on the various possible answers to these questions? I don't have this issue right now but I'd love to know what to start with if my answers are different to Solus if (when) it does happen to me
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Oct 4, 2019 04:12
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PainterofCrap posted:Coolant leak. Possibly blown head gasket, worse: cracked head. Worst: cracked block It's now very noticably above the maximum oil level. Which is not how it was when I last checked it. It also smells like Petrol. There's a known issue with the 2016+ Honda Civics and Oil Dilution so time to google what the repair process is so I know what work Honda is gonna do on it Solus fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Oct 4, 2019 |
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Oct 4, 2019 06:12
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Deteriorata posted:Have you actually measured the voltage, or are you just going off the dash gauge? I ask because it's possible the gauge itself or a sending unit is faulty, rather than anything else in the charging system. Colostomy Bag posted:alternator shot, battery is probably done as well. STR posted:Do your lights seem significantly brighter when the voltage spikes? All in all, it seems like I have a loose connection somewhere with I guess a ground connection. I also seem to need a new alternator since it appears my alternator still isn't putting out 14v according to my voltage indicator. I did also put a multimeter across battery positive and a ground point on the vehicle which did indicate 12.5~12.7V and at 2k RPM the alternator was still outputting less than 13.5v.
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Oct 4, 2019 07:21
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Still sounds like voltage issues, which could be grounding or alternator voltage regulator. Put a meter on it if possible, I wouldn't trust a dash gauge for diagnostic purposes. Might try reading off the cigarette lighter socket. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 11:13 on Oct 4, 2019 |
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Oct 4, 2019 11:06
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Solus posted:I'm m still under mechanical warranty but I'm wondering if there might be someone that can shed some light before I'm back in the dealer (booked in for next week) You said running warm so it almost certainly isn't but.. this isn't just water vapor, right? It's starting to get cold depending on where you live so maybe...? I mean, might as well ask the stupid questions first.
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Oct 4, 2019 14:39
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Need to do power steering pump on my EJ255 Saabaru. Do I need to drain the fluid for this, or flush it afterwards to get air out?
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Oct 4, 2019 16:44
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Beach Bum posted:Still sounds like voltage issues, which could be grounding or alternator voltage regulator. Put a meter on it if possible, I wouldn't trust a dash gauge for diagnostic purposes. I did put a multimeter across battery positive and a ground point on the vehicle. Like I said the multimeter, before getting the new battery, was reading essentially battery voltage at idle and only 13.2-13.5V at 2k RPM with no systems running like AC, radio or headlights.
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Oct 4, 2019 17:21
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blk posted:Need to do power steering pump on my EJ255 Saabaru. Do I need to drain the fluid for this, or flush it afterwards to get air out? If yours is leaking, it might just need new o-rings and not the full pump. Look into it, might be able to save a few bucks and this is a common subaru pump issue. Otherwise, my procedure is: 1. fill the reservoir 2. jack up the front end with the front wheels off the ground 3. Turn wheel lock to lock a few times while keyed on, top off reservoir 4. Turn engine on and repeat lock to lock quickly. Put a rag over the reservoir to catch bubbles/splash until all bubbles are out.
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Oct 4, 2019 17:43
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Solus posted:It's now very noticably above the maximum oil level. Which is not how it was when I last checked it. Well that sucks. It must be pointed out that gasoline significantly decreases the ability of oil to lubricate and protect vital bits like bearings. The car should probably not be driven except straight to your repair shop, and if you have free towing it may be worth considering that option as well.
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Oct 5, 2019 00:19
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simplefish posted:Hi, what's the diagnosis decision tree based on the various possible answers to these questions? Dense & white, doesn't abate: Coolant burning in combustion. Basically, your car is vaping. Hard to tell where the seal break is exactly without tearing it down. (Some cars throw out water vapor for a brief period after starting, but it dissipates quickly & is not an issue) If there's coolant in the oil (i.e. the end of yor dipstick/inside of your oil fill cap is coated in chocolate milkshake) then an oil channel's also breached, & coolant is mixing with the oil. Verdict: guillotine. Don't bother tearing anything down unless you are romantically attached to the engine & money is no object. Dense & blue when sitting in the driveway: oil blow-by at the rings. Engine rebuild or swap (just did a JDM swap on my son's Accord in August for this reason). Dense & blue on cold start, goes away when engine is warm, only to reappear when decelerating/engine braking: bad valve seals/guides. Time to get the head(s) rebuilt. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Oct 5, 2019 |
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Oct 5, 2019 02:58
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Solus posted:It's now very noticably above the maximum oil level. Which is not how it was when I last checked it. That is definitely fuel in the oil. Driving any distance like that will probably destroy the bearings. If possible- stop driving it, or even running the engine, immediately. There is no way in hell this could be an owner maintenance or abuse issue; consequently, it should be covered under the warranty if it is still viable.
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Oct 5, 2019 03:02
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1990 Honda Accord 88,000 miles. Driver door locked and cannot open via key fob, key insert, outdoor handle or indoor handle. This just happened today  so I've been entering and exiting the car through the passenger side. The lock button does move slightly up and down but not completely up or completely down. Is this really going to require a shop to take the door panel off and slice up the inside of the door to fix for $$$? I just replaced the speed sensor a couple months ago for several hundred dollars and put in a new battery after the rubber brake light sensor under the pedal disintegrated draining the old battery, and am really really hoping this is not another multi-hundred dollar fix.
Highbrow Slick fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Oct 5, 2019 |
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Oct 5, 2019 03:05
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