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Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Trying to be Mysterio from Spider-man

Need a giant plastic globe

Cheapest I can get one online is like $50, and my local Home Depot only carries such globes in white

I might be able to work with white, and illuminate it from the inside, but having it be clear would really open up some options for me with making it cooler.

Any suggestions on sourcing such a thing?

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Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

Maybe look at the local mega pet stores or online for plastic/glass fish tank bowls? That might be your best bet unless you have access to some type of vacuum forming machine or possible 3D printer.

Terec
Dec 14, 2001
Cybernetic Crumb

Sockser posted:

Trying to be Mysterio from Spider-man

Need a giant plastic globe

Cheapest I can get one online is like $50, and my local Home Depot only carries such globes in white

I might be able to work with white, and illuminate it from the inside, but having it be clear would really open up some options for me with making it cooler.

Any suggestions on sourcing such a thing?

I found some off amazon when i was making a old 50's space man bubble helmet. Its still gonna be $50 or a bit higher. something like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00435J8HO?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=4F0Z1JWDFAKZ1BPP131Q

Maybe try looking for electrical supply or street light replacement fixtures

Terec fucked around with this message at 13:35 on Sep 22, 2019

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Did it
People went nuts
I’ve never had a cosplay go over so crazy well



my cat is norris
Mar 11, 2010

#onecallcat

Could you see much through the effects? How was breathing?

wait is that not actual fog and just a painted effect

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!

That is a really good costume, the helmet is great!

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




My visibility was approximately “can see when people are done taking photos but can’t see well enough to walk”

The effect is cotton stuffing that’s been spray adhesives to the inside and then torn off and then repeated several times

Breathing was rough, even with two fans on my neck. Could probably definitely improve both the visibility and breath ability issues fairly easily, but that’s what a one week cosplay gets you. Didn’t even have the full suit on until this morning.

E: the other mysterio in that second photo had a solid white helmet, a camera in his chest, and a small video screen inside his helmet, which seemed pretty silly to me when my solution was obviously superior

Sockser fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Oct 6, 2019

Bakalakadaka
Sep 18, 2004

y'all I have a question about materials. I'm making a nier pod as a wearable helmet kind of thing but I'm not sure what to make the box part of it out of. I was thinking of building it around a hard hat or something so it's easy to wear and has room to mount a voice changer inside.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




EVA foam and a hard hat is a pretty sensible call

CzarChasm
Mar 14, 2009

I don't like it when you're watching me eat.
I picked up a plastic Vega (from Street Fighter) mask with plans to turn it into the face shield for a Shredder costume. Without knowing 100% what kind of plastic I'm dealing with, what's the best way to paint it? I'm thinking a matte black spraypaint base coat and then hopefully a silver or chrome top layer. Thoughts?

Bees on Wheat
Jul 18, 2007

I've never been happy



QUAIL DIVISION
Buglord
So I ended up buying several wigs last weekend because there was a decent Black Friday sale (and also it was my birthday present to myself :toot:) for cosplays I have planned but have done no other work on. Now I can't decide what to start on first and oh god I want to make all the costumes at once whyyy :shepspends:



On a related note, who the hell knew adding wefts to a wig was so drat hard? Not me! But that's not going to stop me from trying. Right? :ohdear:

LeviathanGunship
Dec 6, 2004

I'll be honest, I don't entirely understand where this leaves us.

Question for the thread: I'm finally getting tools together to start EVA armor crafting for projects and am wondering what is the recommendation for a variable speed dremel? I have an older one that I barely use due to the fact it only has a couple of speeds (which usually is too fast for my needs even at the lowest setting). I like a couple of cordless options I've found but I don't know how reliable they are.

GFBeach
Jul 6, 2005

Surrounded by wierdos

LeviathanGunship posted:

Question for the thread: I'm finally getting tools together to start EVA armor crafting for projects and am wondering what is the recommendation for a variable speed dremel? I have an older one that I barely use due to the fact it only has a couple of speeds (which usually is too fast for my needs even at the lowest setting). I like a couple of cordless options I've found but I don't know how reliable they are.

Oh hey, I'm getting started on EVA foam stuff for the first time too. :woop: I've used cordless dremels before and they're okay at first but you have to consider/plan on the battery running out exactly when you need it each and every friggin' time. I recently got one of these WEN rotary tool kits and people seem to like it for this particular application. EVA foam isn't exactly a heavy-duty material so I'm less wary of something that cheap burning out.

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

If you already have a Dremel check out the 36 inch extension for it.

Dremel extension

The extension is smaller and great for tighter spaces and I use mine alot for all types of projects.

deoju
Jul 11, 2004

All the pieces matter.
Nap Ghost
I started watching the Mandalorian. In episode 5 there's a new bounty hunter character. Picture in spoilers....


I thought those gloves looked familiar. They're motorcycle gloves, the ones I use. 'Icon' brand, 'Pursuit' model. Made me chuckle.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

deoju posted:

I started watching the Mandalorian. In episode 5 there's a new bounty hunter character. Picture in spoilers....


I thought those gloves looked familiar. They're motorcycle gloves, the ones I use. 'Icon' brand, 'Pursuit' model. Made me chuckle.


As a general prop nerd, I love it when someone nonchalantly identifies a "found item". Might grab some of these gloves just on principle. :D

GFBeach
Jul 6, 2005

Surrounded by wierdos
Can anyone recommend a reputable source for costume contact lenses? I've worn contacts before so I know about proper hygeine/storage procedures and such, I've just never bought them for costume purposes before and want to avoid anyplace sketchy.

my cat is norris
Mar 11, 2010

#onecallcat

I purchased mine through my optometrist.

GFBeach
Jul 6, 2005

Surrounded by wierdos

my cat is norris posted:

I purchased mine through my optometrist.

I looked into that, but mine only sells colored lenses, not anything with designs or patterns.

my cat is norris
Mar 11, 2010

#onecallcat

Aha! What are you looking for, exactly?

I would definitely stick to sites which offer prescription lenses (especially if you need the prescription). Even if you don't need the prescription, it seems to guarantee a higher quality product? Some sites out there are just so dang shady looking.

GFBeach
Jul 6, 2005

Surrounded by wierdos
At the moment I'm helping a friend of mine (who's also worn contacts before) shop for snake eye lenses. She had lasik done over a year ago so whatever she finds doesn't need vision correction but she's, understandably, cautious about buying lenses and doesn't want to gently caress up her eyes.

It seems like there're some vendors (like this one) that require a prescription even for non-corrective lenses, so I would think those kinds of companies are safer to buy from?

my cat is norris
Mar 11, 2010

#onecallcat

That's my best guess, at least in the US your prescription lenses have to have that FDA stamp of approval.

Bees on Wheat
Jul 18, 2007

I've never been happy



QUAIL DIVISION
Buglord
Best of luck to you! I want to do some colored lenses for a couple costumes, but I've never worn contacts and I'm terrified of putting things near my eyes. :ohdear:

I plan to talk to my optometrist about it at my next exam (finally have vision insurance for the first time in 10+ years! :woop:) but I'm not sure I'll ever get over that squeamishness. Oh well. Right now it's just wishful thinking, but it's really frustrating how hard it is to find plain red lenses that look.. normal? I don't want crazy flames or Naruto symbols or anything, I just want it to look like my eyes are naturally red.. :sigh:

I guess on the upside, I can finally work on some things now that all of the Christmas decorations are put away. My apartment is pretty tiny so my sewing desk/crafting table always doubles up as a Christmas tree stand every year..

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

As a contact wearer of (off and on) around 35 years, I decided to tint my own. Put them in an extra case with some saline, a drop of red food color, leave overnight. Then rinse and leave overnight to leach out any alcohol from the coloring. Alcohol plus eyes equal owies. Also make sure you use a sterilizing saline.

They take some getting used to the color change. Since I used red, it blocked green colors. Driving at night was a safety issue, green lights were a dim blue and hard to see, and highway signs were black with magenta text. Taking them off, everything is green for a while, since you've used your red receptors so much.

It is a pretty creepy effect. I was banned from using them in yearbook pictures by my division director. But for those two years I'm immortalized with those eyes.

MrUnderbridge fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Jan 6, 2020

The Electronaut
May 10, 2009

GFBeach posted:

Can anyone recommend a reputable source for costume contact lenses? I've worn contacts before so I know about proper hygeine/storage procedures and such, I've just never bought them for costume purposes before and want to avoid anyplace sketchy.

Samhain. https://samhaincontactlenses.com/

I have a custom set in my prescription from him for my Garrett from Thief cosplay. He was easy to work with to get them to match: I sent in-game stills, promo, and concept art for him to work from for the lens designs.

Goldaline
Dec 21, 2006

my dear
I found daily disposable contacts to be a ton more comfortable than the reusable ones. Colored ones don't really seem to be a thing here in the US but they are in Japan--I order mine from https://www.assistcosplay.com/ (the shipping isn't cheap but I get my stuff in like two days) Just make sure you go and get fitted for contacts by an optometrist so you know if the curve will fit your eye. And watch out, some of them are circle lenses to make your pupils look bigger, so they're a little harder to put in.
'

Mad Dragon
Feb 29, 2004

The important part here is to have an optometrist write a prescription for the correct size lenses, so you don't permanently damage your eyes.

Bees on Wheat
Jul 18, 2007

I've never been happy



QUAIL DIVISION
Buglord

Mad Dragon posted:

The important part here is to have an optometrist write a prescription for the correct size lenses, so you don't permanently damage your eyes.

Yeah, I've never worn lenses but I at least know that much. Though it would be sort of ironic if I damaged my eyes with lovely lenses while cosplaying someone who is strangely protective of their eyes.. :shobon:

deoju
Jul 11, 2004

All the pieces matter.
Nap Ghost
I've been chipping away at my Ghostbusters proton pack for a while now, and I'm in the home stretch. But I could use some help with the sound effects. The lights and sound kit I bought didn't come with a speaker, and the vendor isn't clear enough for my dumb-rear end under his recommendations. Does this speaker meet the specs he describes? At this point I think it's probably best for me to start with one speaker, less for me to gently caress up. If it's not loud enough I can add another later.

Once I find the right speaker I don't really know how to wire it. Here's a picture of the circuit board.

Do I just screw down the right type of wires in the slots labeled 'speaker' and then do the same thing on the speaker itself? If It's that simple I think I can handle it.

TerminalSaint
Apr 21, 2007


Where must we go...

we who wander this Wasteland in search of our better selves?
The speaker looks right, 6-1/2" and 4 ohm impedance.

The screw connectors should should indeed just be a matter of inserting the stripped wire ends and screwing down. The speaker side may require soldering unless you've got wires with the right connectors.

TerminalSaint fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Jan 21, 2020

deoju
Jul 11, 2004

All the pieces matter.
Nap Ghost
Thanks for the input. I'm more confident now.

I'll be sure to do a big effort post when I'm all finished.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Me: "Wow, Katsucon was pricy. It'll be good to save some money"

Also me: "Ooh, Lucia Fex cosplay!"

Goldaline
Dec 21, 2006

my dear
I forget to post in here but. I am Ferdinand von Aegir. Or at least I was at Katsucon this year. Armor is a pain to make and a pain to wear and I can't say I'd love to do it again but I'm happy with it.



Related to above I also made Lio from Promare which was fun to tear around in. I didn't want to make it out of pleather so I went with stretch denim and it was very comfy.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Goldaline posted:

I forget to post in here but. I am Ferdinand von Aegir. Or at least I was at Katsucon this year. Armor is a pain to make and a pain to wear and I can't say I'd love to do it again but I'm happy with it.



Related to above I also made Lio from Promare which was fun to tear around in. I didn't want to make it out of pleather so I went with stretch denim and it was very comfy.



What an absolute shame, I should have known there were goons there. I borrowed my friend's Lucia Fex, and loved it enough to make my own



Other highlights included Wild Wild Pussycats, Scottish Pokemon Trainer, and Fire Emblem with my friends as Flayn, Dmitri, and Grappler Dedue

hmu @ https://instagram.com/skirting.the.issues and i'll follow back.

Goldaline
Dec 21, 2006

my dear
That wig is a cotton candy confection I love it.

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

4 months out from the Raleigh comic con and that means time to start prepping a costume. I'm a 6'3 dude and I just bought a dress for myself to convert into the Shredder's gray outer clothing, a few minutes with a sewing machine should allow me to make it tighter around the chest and create the slit front and back design.

The real challenge is going to be the helmet, going to work on a papercraft design and then figure out how to translate that to foam and paint. Going to be looking for advice on the foam and paint weathering in a few weeks, after I get the paper model built.

The rest of the armor should be fairly easy to form with a heat gun and foam. I love getting costume design going.

Also would 6mm Eva foam be fairly good to build a helmet out of?

Rythe fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Mar 9, 2020

GFBeach
Jul 6, 2005

Surrounded by wierdos

Rythe posted:

Also would 6mm Eva foam be fairly good to build a helmet out of?

Unless you're specifically going for a big and bulky helmet I would think 6mm would be plenty!

So I've been working on and off on a Byleth (male) costume from Fire Emblem: Three Houses and my general process has been to try making prototypes of everything out of 6mm floor mats before ordering better (i.e. smooth on both sides) foam. The cutting and assembly has gone well enough, but I'm running into two problems that are linked:

1) I'm using DAP Weldwood contact cement because that's what was most easily available, and while I can attach curved seams well enough, almost every curved seam I've done ends up splitting a little as I let the piece set overnight. I'm applying two coats to each part of the seam and letting them dry before putting them together. I've been able to patch things in with kwik-seal filler, but I get the impression I'm having to lean on this stuff more than is considered normal. Which leads to...

2) As part of tidying up the split seams I'm hitting them with a power sander before applying kwik-seal. Using a power sander I start with 80 grit and work my way up to 320 grit, go over the affected areas with a heat gun to seal the foam, apply the heat seal, but after applying plasti-dip the resulting surface still looks awful and feels really rough. I've put on about four (light) coats of plasti-dip and it's not filling in the surface and evening things out.

I'm not terribly frustrated because these are test pieces destined for the garbage once I get the process right, but I'd like to figure out what I did wrong. Am I using too much glue? Should I have wet sanded with 320 grit (or higher)? With plasti-dip, should I go heavier on the individual coats?

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

I went from this model, made of card stock



To this in preparation for building it out of foam.


To this


Though with this virus going around who knows if the August comic con will happen or not.

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

GFBeach posted:

Unless you're specifically going for a big and bulky helmet I would think 6mm would be plenty!

So I've been working on and off on a Byleth (male) costume from Fire Emblem: Three Houses and my general process has been to try making prototypes of everything out of 6mm floor mats before ordering better (i.e. smooth on both sides) foam. The cutting and assembly has gone well enough, but I'm running into two problems that are linked:

1) I'm using DAP Weldwood contact cement because that's what was most easily available, and while I can attach curved seams well enough, almost every curved seam I've done ends up splitting a little as I let the piece set overnight. I'm applying two coats to each part of the seam and letting them dry before putting them together. I've been able to patch things in with kwik-seal filler, but I get the impression I'm having to lean on this stuff more than is considered normal. Which leads to...

2) As part of tidying up the split seams I'm hitting them with a power sander before applying kwik-seal. Using a power sander I start with 80 grit and work my way up to 320 grit, go over the affected areas with a heat gun to seal the foam, apply the heat seal, but after applying plasti-dip the resulting surface still looks awful and feels really rough. I've put on about four (light) coats of plasti-dip and it's not filling in the surface and evening things out.

I'm not terribly frustrated because these are test pieces destined for the garbage once I get the process right, but I'd like to figure out what I did wrong. Am I using too much glue? Should I have wet sanded with 320 grit (or higher)? With plasti-dip, should I go heavier on the individual coats?

The only thing I can think of with the glue seperating is not letting it cure properly before applying the pieces because it sounds like your doing everything correctly.

With seams I normally use that kwik-seal and "sand" it while wet with a finger dabbed in water. Then I typically just plasti-dip it as the foam is typically smooth after heat sealing. This is my experience with small works of EVA foam.

Maybe try a different distance for spraying on the plasti dip too?

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GFBeach
Jul 6, 2005

Surrounded by wierdos

Rythe posted:

The only thing I can think of with the glue seperating is not letting it cure properly before applying the pieces because it sounds like your doing everything correctly.

With seams I normally use that kwik-seal and "sand" it while wet with a finger dabbed in water. Then I typically just plasti-dip it as the foam is typically smooth after heat sealing. This is my experience with small works of EVA foam.

Maybe try a different distance for spraying on the plasti dip too?

Yeah, I've been smoothing the kwik seal over with a wet finger. Those parts came out fine except I just used too much of the stuff. I did some more testing yesterday and I think I need to be spending a lot more time wet sanding over the rough areas with progressively finer and finer grit sandpaper. I also tried some more thorough heat sealing on a scrap piece and the plasti-dip turned out a lot better, too. Everyone seems to swear by Barge cement, and since I'm running low on contact cement already I may order a can of that and see if there's an appreciable difference. Thanks for your input!

I've been hearing good things about brushable/sandable filler material like Fine Finish and their demo videos are encouraging, but boy howdy that looks like it get expensive fast. o_O; Does anyone know of another filler along those lines that's sandable and plays nicely with being coated with plasti-dip?

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