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Fz6 Fazer S2 - 2007/2008 Non ABS Riding my bike it suddenly went down to two cylinders and gave me a warning light as well as an error code (34) - inducer coil for cylinders 2 and 3. I thought I could limp it home on two cylinders, but after braking for a red light it died completely. No display on the dash, no immobiliser flashing LED, nothing. I threw some money at a friend I know with a van to get it home. I have no idea where to begin. I've just stripped all the bodywork off to see as many of the wires and connections as I can. - I have a multimeter and my battery's giving 12.8v which the manual says is 75% full and nowhere near needing replacing. - I've checked all the fuses, they're all good. - I'm following the haynes manual instructions for checking the coils and that's going to take a while. It has been incredibly wet this month, even by UK standards. I've been parked for whole days in the rain while I'm doing poo poo and I think it's all added up. I hate electrical problems because they're too hard to find. I might call this one and get the pros in, but before I do... ...any suggestions? Because this is the S2 version with the immobiliser, if the ECU is dead the unit replacement is actually worth more than the bike and it's a write off, so there's that. Azza Bamboo fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Oct 5, 2019 |
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Oct 5, 2019 18:09
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| # ? May 16, 2024 17:54 |
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I mean, you have a fault code for the 2-3 coil so you have 90% of the work already done for you. Your post reads kind of panicky - stay calm; you have a manual and a multimeter and a functional cerebral cortex, aka all the resources you need to fix this. This is like solving a murder and the fault code is like an anonymous tip telling you where it happened and who the victim was, you just need to search the room for the weapon. Start by finding the coil that fires the two middle cylinders. Make sure it's getting 12-ish volts with the bike turned fully on. Make sure you don't have a bunch of water down the plug holes or in the ignition leads or connectors. Pop the plugs out while you're there and have a good look at them, compare the 2-3 plugs with the 1-4. Test the low and high tension circuit continuity on the coil, report back here if you find nothing unusual. There is no way on this gay earth you have some sort of ecu/immo problem. If I remember right you've been having some mild issues for a while which could very well be a flagging coil on it's way out.
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Oct 5, 2019 18:44
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The part that's worried me is how it's gone from: Everything normal except only 2 cylinders firing, the dash displaying a warning light, and a fault code to: No signs of any of the electric systems turning on, including the display, with the key turned on. Also, with the key in the off position, the immobiliser LED isn't flashing like it would do.
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Oct 5, 2019 18:54
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E: yes you have. Ok time to check if you've got power going to and coming from the ignition switch From that description it honestly sounds like you've got water in the fuse box, ignition switch or something else crucial. The ECU isn't like a brain that runs everything on the bike, you'll still have a bunch of other stuff like lights etc working even if you took the ECU out and threw it in the bin, stop worrying about that. Any decent mechanic will tell you: it is never the ECU. E2: find the wiring diagram. Test for voltage at the positive terminal. Use the diagram to see where the positive wire(s) goes. Check for 12v there. Keep going down the chain until you find something that should have power but doesn't and you'll find the problem. I can't be hosed finding an fz6 wiring diagram but if you posted one here it would be pretty easy to work through it and find where the issue is. Nothing switching on is actually a really easy problem to find because there's only a handful of ways it's even possible at all. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Oct 5, 2019 |
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Oct 5, 2019 19:01
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Hey, I wanna get new tires on my FZ1. I figured the most polite and low hassle way to do it would be to take both my wheels off and bring them into a shop with the new tires. Am I safe to put it up on the center stand and get the front wheel off and just sit the fork ends on a big wooden block to do this?
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Oct 5, 2019 20:40
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Jonny 290 posted:Hey, I wanna get new tires on my FZ1. I figured the most polite and low hassle way to do it would be to take both my wheels off and bring them into a shop with the new tires. Totally. Just make sure the block approximates the height provided by the front wheel so it doesn't fold the center stand and collapse forwards. I usually do this by putting the block or jack under the header or front of the engine so the front end is completely free, that way it won't fall the gently caress over if you accidentally bump the bars or whatever, plus you can check your steering head bearings!
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Oct 5, 2019 20:48
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Probably not the best place to ask, but: what's the best dremel bit for milling out a ~10mm hole in 2mm thick aluminium plate? I'm making a mounting bracket to relocate the indicators on gf's 125 and don't have a drill big enough to do any of the holes in one shot.
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Oct 5, 2019 20:50
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Renaissance Robot posted:Probably not the best place to ask, but: what's the best dremel bit for milling out a ~10mm hole in 2mm thick aluminium plate? I'm making a mounting bracket to relocate the indicators on gf's 125 and don't have a drill big enough to do any of the holes in one shot. It sounds like you want a drill with a step bit.
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Oct 5, 2019 20:57
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It sounds like he needs a drill with a 10mm bit like you can find at any hardware store.
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Oct 5, 2019 21:07
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Get a drill bit kit and start with a thin one, 4-5 mm. HSS will make light work of aluminium and it'll come in handy for other stuff sooner or later.
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Oct 5, 2019 21:13
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Step bit set on sale is a godsend for randomly sized larger holes
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Oct 5, 2019 21:35
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I've never used a step bit but watching Project Binky made me want to try one But also never don't drill pilot holes
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Oct 5, 2019 21:47
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Phy posted:I've never used a step bit but watching Project Binky made me want to try one as a dude that has a big habit of installing ham antennas (that need usually 3/4 to 1 1/4" holes in sheet metal) i loving love step bits so much. Intensely cleaner cut than a hole saw. Also if you're deft with them, they make excellent countersink bits.
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Oct 5, 2019 22:12
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Slavvy posted:I can't be hosed finding an fz6 wiring diagram but if you posted one here it would be pretty easy to work through it and find where the issue is. I couldn't find one online so I hope a photo of the manual works. 
Azza Bamboo fucked around with this message at 13:24 on Oct 6, 2019 |
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Oct 6, 2019 13:17
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I'm guessing: - With the battery disconnected, check continuity from the positive battery terminal to the output of the starter relay fuse. - With the battery connected, Check for 12 volts at the red and black wires into the ignition switch plug female. - With the ignition switch plug disconnected, check continuity across the red and black wires out of the ignition plug male, key in the ON position. Azza Bamboo fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Oct 6, 2019 |
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Oct 6, 2019 13:44
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Okay so I didn't dig into the headlight fuse because I didn't think it was relevant. That was a critical error. There was no continuity between the ignition plug female negative crimp and the battery negative. I looked on the circuit diagram and it connects along the headlight fuse (why?) It was blown, which explains how the bike died when I was trying to ride it on 2 cylinders.  So now we're back at "#2 coil is dead" I'll check continuity across the windings, and replace if there is none, otherwise see if there's a connection broken or something.
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Oct 6, 2019 15:15
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Isn't the "route ignition through headlight" a thing on scooters? I think theoretically it's supposed to be to prevent you from riding around with a blown headlight, although it is kind of a dumb design.
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Oct 6, 2019 17:03
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Alright goons tell me where I hosed up. I installed an FCR to replace my busted stock carb on my XR600R and got it running fine. Bike would kick over with choke in 2-3 shots, I'd turn choke off immediately and it would idle happily. So later that day, I fired it up to warm the oil in preparation for an oil change. Drained it, cleaned out the oil filter and the down tube oil screen, buttoned it all up and filled it with oil. Fired it up again, topped it off with oil, but it no longer wants to idle without choke. There was some white smoke on startup, which I assumed was oil burning off that spilled onto a hot bit when I was filling up the reservoir. Why the hell would an oil change do anything like this? My only guess is that I spilled some oil onto the frame which trickled down into a carb vent hose and got sucked in?
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Oct 6, 2019 18:18
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Azza Bamboo posted:Okay so I didn't dig into the headlight fuse because I didn't think it was relevant. That was a critical error. It is a stupid, stupid scooter-like design but you found the problem so who cares. Money = saved. Well done! yergacheffe posted:Alright goons tell me where I hosed up. Sounds like you've overfilled the oil and it's now making it's home in the airbox and pilot circuit.
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Oct 6, 2019 18:25
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Slavvy posted:Sounds like you've overfilled the oil and it's now making it's home in the airbox and pilot circuit. Man I'm not used to these dry sumps, it's hard to tell if I overfilled or not!  The oil level seems okay when I check it (I run it for a minute on choke, kill engine, then pull the dipstick)Well I'm about to tear the carb out and root through the pilot circuit. I'm going to check the airbox to see if oil is in there too and wipe everything down. I'm not sure how oil makes it into the airbox though? Do you mean some may have spilled into it by trickling down the frame, or that overfilling oil in general can somehow result in oil getting from the top end, through the carb, and into the airbox? (genuine question, I'm an idiot when it comes to mechanical stuff)
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Oct 6, 2019 18:55
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If you overfill the oil, crank case pressure will blow it through the breather into the airbox. Are you checking the oil level with the bike upright?
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Oct 6, 2019 18:57
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Slavvy posted:If you overfill the oil, crank case pressure will blow it through the breather into the airbox. Gotcha, that makes sense. However, when I took a look at the crankcase breather hose, it looks like the PO has cut it off from the airbox and it just kinda dangles:  Circled in orange is a tube roughly the same diameter as the breather tube which has one end heat clamped shut and the other attached to a little barb on the airbox. So I don't think oil could've made it's way to the airbox. I checked the oil level on the sidestand, I'll try upright next time.
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Oct 6, 2019 19:29
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What you're holding looks like the airbox water drain but it's not very clear. Somewhere on the bike there will be a tube leading from the engine to some part of the air intake, it is literally impossible to have an engine without one so it's definitely there somewhere. Look there are only two answers here: either you caused the problem changing the oil, in which case overfilling is the only conceivable way you could've done anything to affect the idle, or the problem was always there/is caused by total coincidence and you're barking up the wrong tree.
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Oct 6, 2019 20:30
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I checked the oil level with the bike upright, looked good. Nothing else to check so I just tore down the carburetor, replaced the pilot jet, sprayed down jets and passages with carb cleaner/compressed air and ran fishing line through them. Works fine now, so let's call it a win! Thanks for the info!
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Oct 7, 2019 01:07
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GriszledMelkaba posted:Uggggh is anyone familiar with how difficult it is to replace valve guides on a modern dirt bike? I have a 2015 Husqvarna FC350 that smokes when I rev it. All signs point to valve stem seals leaking. I installed a new piston, then I installed new valve stem seals and it still smokes. I'm gonna pull it apart again and check the play between the valve and the valve guide because I didn't know to look out for that before because I'm an idiot that shouldn't be doing this work but I'm poor and dumb. Take the head off and get a pro to do it for you. If you mess it up it’ll be super expensive. Don’t gently caress up your timing. Also, this seems like a helpful discussion. https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1159264-what-you-can-expect-at-160hrs-use-350sxf/ - see page 2 - did you use a two or three piece ring?
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Oct 7, 2019 01:27
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That was the exact thumper talk post that made me realize "gently caress I never checked the play in the guides" when it was all apart. I'm gonna run it through a few heat cycles to see what happens. I don't want to complain anymore to get any "I told you so's" from the Hatey-Em and Scoffsvarna squad
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Oct 7, 2019 09:19
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I need some winter storage advice. I have a non running '82 Katana I need to put away for the winter and I'm not sure which option is better. Option 1: pull the battery, seat, tank and carbs, plug all open holes and cover the bike and store it outdoors for a Canadian winter (6-7 months, it gets as low as -35c) Option 2: pull the same parts, plug it up but store the bike in my garage that floods every spring and I have no way to drain it out or reduce the moisture for about a month.
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Oct 7, 2019 21:26
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SHAQ4PREZ posted:I need some winter storage advice. I have a non running '82 Katana I need to put away for the winter and I'm not sure which option is better. I'm in Winnipeg so I know the struggle Most important would be bringing the battery inside and leaving it on a battery tender for the winter. Then you can get a winterizing kit from Canadian Tire that has fuel stabilizer + fogging compound, fill the gas tank and add the fuel stabilizer, drain the carbs, pull the spark plugs and spray in some fogging compound so that the cylinder walls stay lubed over the winter. In your situation it would probably be good to leave it in the garage over the winter then pull it outside when the thaw/flooding starts.
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Oct 7, 2019 21:31
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I have a weird question: now that I have a spare engine, what can I do during a teardown/rebuild to make sure it's in top shape? I can't find a gasket set, or an affordable big bore kit for ninja 250. Do I just disassemble and clean everything then put it back together? I'd like to get rid of carbon deposits and stuff.
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Oct 7, 2019 21:33
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mewse posted:I have a weird question: now that I have a spare engine, what can I do during a teardown/rebuild to make sure it's in top shape? Short answer: nothing, don't even bother taking it apart. Long answer: dismantling a water cooled four stroke for shits and giggles is a waste of time and money, because you automatically incur the costs of a gasket set the moment you get in there. There is nothing you can meaningfully clean or tidy up, if you care about carbon deposits the solution is regular servicing and frequent trips to the redline. If you want to learn some poo poo and get some satisfaction: Replace the valve stem seals, measure the spring free length, lap the valves, maybe get a fraction shaved off the head (a good engine shop will also give it a bath in an industrial dishwasher, it'll come out sparkling clean), inspect the cam lobes and bearing surfaces, replace the timing chain, replace the chain rails if needed. Replace the big end and main bearings, replace the piston rings, inspect the piston condition and measure diameters, replace as a pair if needed. Inspect the gudgeon pin and conrod - you can measure this stuff but if it's hosed you're almost guaranteed to see it visually. Inspect the bore, again you can measure but a visual is usually enough and it will almost certainly be fine. Take apart and inspect the oil pump. Replace all the ball/roller bearings in the gearbox, replace the seals for the output shaft, clutch release and shifter, replace the water pump seals and bearing. Inspect the gear dogs and slots, shave down any protrusions or peening with a fine file, have a good look at all the sliding/rotating shaft surfaces - again it's usually pretty obvious when they're hosed without having to measure. Inspect the clutch basket and hub for corrugation or other wear. Inspect the gears from any heat discoloration - dead giveaway of a low oil level, replace them now in case they turn to cheese later. All of the above can be done with basic tools, a torque wrench, a vernier caliper, some valve lapping materials from the tool shop worth about $20, possibly a $20 puller to get the stator flywheel off the crank without loving things. And a manual of course. If you aren't gonna do at least some of the above it is not worth it, whether the cost of all this is worth having a like-new ex250 engine is for you to decide.
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Oct 7, 2019 22:13
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mewse posted:I'm in Winnipeg so I know the struggle This is good advice, and probably further than is necessary. My minimum winterizing is fill the tank, a dash of Stabil, petcock to off, drain the float bowls, pull the battery and keep it inside. No issues with starting after 7+ months of Wisconsin winter. Worst case scenario is the battery shits out but hey, that's powersports batteries for you.
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Oct 7, 2019 23:57
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Gorson posted:This is good advice, and probably further than is necessary. Yeah I bought the winterizing kit last year and didn't use it, just brought the battery inside and put it on the tender Slavvy posted:Short answer: nothing, don't even bother taking it apart. You rock Slavvy. This seems masochistic enough for me to pursue
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Oct 8, 2019 00:06
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mewse posted:Yeah I bought the winterizing kit last year and didn't use it, just brought the battery inside and put it on the tender If you’re into it, this book is for dirt bikes but I really enjoyed it. https://www.diymotofix.com/uploads/2/7/9/7/27975509/edited_1.jpg
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Oct 8, 2019 01:28
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I think I might have caught a disease this summer rooting around in the guts of the Rex because that sounds disturbingly close to fun Maybe it's just toxoplasmosis from my cats
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Oct 8, 2019 03:18
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Question for everyone who started on a 125 or 250: How long before you found yourself wanting to upgrade? How long before you actually upgraded? What was your next jump? Context: Not actually worried about outgrowing my 250 any time soon, but genuinely curious what other people's experience is. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't overcome with lust after some 650s but I'm holding steady for now.
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Oct 8, 2019 14:20
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I set a date and goal of one year / 10k miles. Then I spent a year riding all over Colorado. Then when the year was up I bought my next bike. Then I spent half a year kinda missing the 250. Man that thing was light and flicked so easy.
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Oct 8, 2019 14:25
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I definitely miss my 250s more than any other bike I've had. The draw to a bigger faster bike is always strong, but I just don't care too much about it. I'd still love a superduke, but with a 125 to ride all my 650s feel like an SD.
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Oct 8, 2019 15:20
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I spent about 8 months on a 125; told myself I'd stick with it for a year, but then I got my full licence and lasted a whole week before draining my bank account to buy a used 600  In hindsight it was too much, I had a lot of fun on that bike but I really should have waited and saved up for 250/300 with ABS.
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Oct 8, 2019 15:50
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I upgraded in about six months to a 400 and a year after that I was on a hornet 900. I was a dumbass and would've learned to ride good a lot sooner if I had focused my wallet on a higher quality (as in tyres, suspension, not being old as gently caress) small bike instead of just whatever had more power than before. Later I spent the better part of two years commuting on first a 125 and then a 250 enduro and the latter in particular completely changed my riding and made me rue spending all those years on bikes with fat tyres not knowing wtf I was doing, I look back on those days and shudder. The bikes you really miss riding all tend to be either small and slow or stupid huge and powerful imo. A chart of how good you think you are at riding looks pretty much exactly like the anatomy of a stock market bubble - most people never get past the bear trap and just run around layerdanning and bragging about it forever, good riders realise they don't know anything about anything and probably never will.
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Oct 8, 2019 18:45
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Martytoof posted:Question for everyone who started on a 125 or 250: How long before you found yourself wanting to upgrade? How long before you actually upgraded? What was your next jump? I started on a 50 for ~3 years, then was on 125/150s for the next 12 years - all scooters. I didn't add a motorcycle until earlier this year (Ninja 650). It's still the odd one out compared to the scooters and the one I'd sell first. Small bike supremacy.
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Oct 8, 2019 19:12
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