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peepsalot posted:I think i'm gonna give OpenWRT a try, and if that doesn't work, I'll revert to factory and just set DNS manually on each individual device, or maybe get a new router. If you can return it then do that. Get an er-x since you seem to be inclined to separate your wifi from your routing. Never look back, or forwards to 2.x firmware for that matter. Latest 1.x is what you want.
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Oct 6, 2019 23:09
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H110Hawk posted:If you can return it then do that. Get an er-x since you seem to be inclined to separate your wifi from your routing. Never look back, or forwards to 2.x firmware for that matter. Latest 1.x is what you want. I also realized/remembered that at one point I was running a ERLite-3 purchased in Nov 2014, but it died on me after a couple years, may have suffered a power surge, don't recall exactly. So that's apparently when I pulled the WNDR3700 out of the closet and just set it up on the factory firwmare. Edit: ...yeah I'm looking at the ER-X now, the price is really tempting. What's this about the firmware versions though? Also my Wifi uses UBT UAP-AC, any idea if I can use the power injector from that for both? I don't know poo poo about PoE really. peepsalot fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Oct 6, 2019 |
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Oct 6, 2019 23:15
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peepsalot posted:Heh, I was just looking at my receipts and I bought this in Feb 2011 so I think its a bit late for returns. Yeah it's time. That Netgear router hasn't been getting security updates for years at this point. Since you've got experience with Ubiquiti hardware, you might as well snag a astral fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Oct 6, 2019 |
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Oct 6, 2019 23:34
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What is the normal operational lifespan of a consumer router anyway?
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Oct 6, 2019 23:43
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Warbird posted:What is the normal operational lifespan of a consumer router anyway? Well, for most people a home router is "can I or can I not get to Facebook?" Most people just use the integrated modem/route/firewall/WAP that their ISP gives them. If we're making recommendations, I'd after at 4-5 years it's probably time for a new one.
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Oct 7, 2019 01:44
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Warbird posted:What is the normal operational lifespan of a consumer router anyway? 1.05*warranty_period
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Oct 7, 2019 01:46
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ickna posted:1.05*warranty_period
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Oct 7, 2019 02:26
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ickna posted:0.90*warranty_period - consumer apathy at having to argue with the agent in some other country on a 24kbps voip line and then a promise of internet in 10-14 days and oh god is best buy still in business?
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Oct 7, 2019 02:51
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I would assume the majority of people just use the ISP-supplied kit and when/if it starts to have problems they get a new one in exchange for re-contracting.
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Oct 7, 2019 08:49
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I went ahead and ordered an ER-X from amazon yesterday, should be here in two more days. I still had a couple small questions that maybe were missed since I was editing them in while astral was replying.H110Hawk posted:Never look back, or forwards to 2.x firmware for that matter. Latest 1.x is what you want. Also my WiFi unit is a Ubiquiti UniFi AC (UAP-AC), any idea if I can use the power injector from that for both? I don't know poo poo about PoE really.
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Oct 7, 2019 19:56
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peepsalot posted:I went ahead and ordered an ER-X from amazon yesterday, should be here in two more days. I still had a couple small questions that maybe were missed since I was editing them in while astral was replying. Ubiquiti are morons and nothing can just be nice. Basically their 2.x firmware is broken and they haven't fixed it yet. Same with the POE - they started out with a hold my beer 24v approach which was a dumb idea and that engineer should have been fired for thinking of it, let alone implementing it. So, no. The ER-X has a power brick, use that. It makes me mad that consumer garbage is so bad that this stuff which is marginally better gets a pass. Thankfully they're coming around to using POE standards (802.3af), I believe it's what your UAP-AC uses.
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Oct 7, 2019 21:17
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peepsalot posted:Could you elaborate on the firmware differences? What's so bad about the newer ones? Earlier 2.x firmware could soft brick your ER-X. Current firmware has messed up hardware acceleration and an overall 10% performance degredation vs 1.x. Also, it still crashes randomly for some people. It's probably another case of underpaid overworked devs at a small company drowning in management's segmentation mess. Ubiquiti has a million loving products and even within product lines their routers use entirely different CPU architectures.
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Oct 7, 2019 21:28
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Inept posted:It's probably another case of underpaid overworked devs at a small company drowning in management's segmentation mess. Ubiquiti has a million loving products and even within product lines their routers use entirely different CPU architectures. It's crazy how this company could be the end-all be-all if they halved their product lineup and stopped segmenting out everything as though people care what the leading product category is called. But then a bunch of overpaid VP's wouldn't be able to pad their resumes with the new products they delivered.
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Oct 7, 2019 21:32
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My understanding of 24V PoE is this... Blame Motorola to start with. They where the first to make WISP equipment that went into wide use and that equipment used 24V passive PoE. All Motorola's soon-to be competitors followed suit as it meant WISPs could install this new equipment while reusing the existing 24V power infrastructure they already had in place for Motorola's gear. Why Ubiquiti carried this over into the Unifi line, which is a entirely different market segment from WISPs, is anyone's guess.
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Oct 7, 2019 21:42
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stevewm posted:My understanding of 24V PoE is this... Which is all a holdover from POTS telecom gear. Lick your phone line and it's 24v. (I forget the exact spec.)
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Oct 7, 2019 21:47
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H110Hawk posted:Which is all a holdover from POTS telecom gear. Lick your phone line and it's 24v. (I forget the exact spec.) Yup, or lick a T1 line.
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Oct 7, 2019 22:27
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I could have sworn POTS was 48V not 24.
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Oct 7, 2019 23:31
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skipdogg posted:I could have sworn POTS was 48V not 24.
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Oct 7, 2019 23:58
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peepsalot posted:Lick it and see? Been there done that. Was repairing a phone jack in my room. Have habit of stripping wires with teeth. Grandma called while I was doing this. Apparently it hits 96v while ringing. Lost the ability to taste anything for several days.
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Oct 8, 2019 00:48
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I just moved from a 700 sq ft apartment to a space twice as big, and my current network gear is showing its age. The place is wired out the rear end with coax, but apparently the only point with strong enough signal for the cable internet modem is in the front of the apartment. The Airport extreme I have up there doesn't reach the back of the apartment, and while the older Airport I have is technically working as a network extender, the speeds are only around ~20mbps which is awful. Trying to figure out what my options look like... Option A - some sort of mesh network either Eero or Orbi or whatever Option B - have someone come in who can replace the coax runs with Cat 6 cable (most of the runs are external over the roof/side of the unit - can you do that with network cable?) and then upgrade to a Ubiquiti setup with a couple access points. Option C - something I haven't thought of yet Side note... had to give up Sonic Fiber to move and holy poo poo do I miss Gigabit upload.
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Oct 8, 2019 17:25
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ScooterMcTiny posted:Option C - something I haven't thought of yet You can try buying some MoCA adapters and use your existing coax lines. Get them from somewhere with free returns in case your cabling is hosed and unusable. With a couple of those you could do option B without needing to recable your whole apartment.
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Oct 8, 2019 17:38
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ScooterMcTiny posted:I just moved from a 700 sq ft apartment to a space twice as big, and my current network gear is showing its age. The place is wired out the rear end with coax, but apparently the only point with strong enough signal for the cable internet modem You might be able to fix this up with some sandpaper if the copper connectors are just dirty and corroded. Open up the wall plates if they are the threaded side of the F-connector (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F_connector) on the wall and make sure everything is clean and snug on the back. If there is a splitter in the apartment anywhere (check outside walls, closets, that sorta thing) verify it's new and modern. Sadly the best time to do that is when the tech is there so you can sweet talk a new one out of them. Check all connections are clean and snug. Try unplugging all of them and tracing if a single run is causing your issues. Coaxial wire at its core is
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Oct 8, 2019 18:54
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Has anybody with pfSense experience got any idea why making a VPN tunnel to a certain endpoint means I can no longer hit the public IP of the pfSense box from that location? E.g. If I have a pfSense box at 1.2.3.4 I can hit the external interface and manage it from another office with address 2.3.4.5, until I made a VPN tunnel between the two locations at which point the external address of pfSense stops responding. I am aware I can get to the management interface on the LAN side via the tunnel, but I'm curious as to what is happening here. A packet trace shows the connection attempts to port 443 but they just get dropped.
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Oct 8, 2019 20:04
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My router keeps having to get restarted cause it keeps bugging out or something, its pretty old, so I went ahead and upgraded. The local fiber company has kept telling me that they are "6 months" away from our house for about a year now, so eventually I want to get a pretty decent opnsense box for when I can get full gigabit, but for now I went with an Edgerouter X, which should fulfill my needs, then added a Unifi NanoHD, and a Unifi Switch 8 60W for wireless and ports. Now to wait for amazon to deliver so I can play with shiny new toys.
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Oct 8, 2019 22:56
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For what it's worth I decided to try an Edgerouter 4 and it's working swimmingly with eap_proxy keeping the AT&T gateway out of the traffic path.
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Oct 8, 2019 23:58
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Don't know which thread this should go in, but my Android phone completely lost the ability to see my WiFi network overnight. I have restarted my phone, my router and my modem multiple times with no results. I can see plenty of my neighbors' networks, but not mine, even if I'm standing directly next to the router. Forgetting the network and manually inputting the SSID does nothing. My wired computer is working fine, as are my other wireless devices. Any ideas? Edit: And immediately after posting it works again.  Well that was an annoying couple of hours.Edit 2: And now it's happening again. 
Lester Shy fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Oct 10, 2019 |
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Oct 10, 2019 15:42
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Thanks Ants posted:Has anybody with pfSense experience got any idea why making a VPN tunnel to a certain endpoint means I can no longer hit the public IP of the pfSense box from that location? It's your ruleset - most likely the order isn't correct. https://docs.netgate.com/pfsense/en/latest/firewall/firewall-rule-processing-order.html
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Oct 10, 2019 16:16
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How can I force my work's VPN tunnel to split tunnel? It's routing all network traffic through to my corporate servers which would normally be fine, except since I work from home I can't listen to Spotify while connected to the VPN.  I'm on Windows 10. edit: It's really just the DNS that's screwing things up.
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Oct 10, 2019 17:19
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Hoping this is at least thread-adjacent: Last night we had a big storm and a it appears as though a lightning strike entered through my Comcast coax. The inside of my cable model has some vaporized (?) ICs, and there’s char marks inside my network switch at every port where a device was plugged in. RIP edgerouter, ac-lr-pro, 24 port switch, roku and the NICs in my desktop, nas and television. What do I need to do to make sure this doesn’t happen again? Are surge protectors not enough? I went outside and realized that the cable I had installed 6mo ago has a ground lug at the service entry, but it was never connected. Do I have grounds to complain at Comcast?
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Oct 11, 2019 01:18
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eddiewalker posted:Hoping this is at least thread-adjacent: Last night we had a big storm and a it appears as though a lightning strike entered through my Comcast coax. I feel your pain man. I had a similar ordeal on July 4, 2018. I remember cause we were having a big party at my house. Lightning came in through my phone line, which blew the panel outside of my house off the wall and 30 feet away from the house, went inside to my DSL modem and it blew apart as well. It also took out my DirecTV Genie box, stove, microwave, dishwasher, Nest thermostat, and a few other smaller things. Luckily insurance covered everything after my deductible and we got some appliance upgrades out of the deal.
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Oct 11, 2019 01:56
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There was a construction crew laying fiber on my cross street this morning. I asked them about it and they said it was for Crown Castle Fiber. I currently have Xfinity gigabit but I would love to have a symmetrical gigabit option available. If they are laying fiber this close does that mean it could happen at some point? Who would the ISP be?
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Oct 11, 2019 02:07
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fletcher posted:There was a construction crew laying fiber on my cross street this morning. I asked them about it and they said it was for Crown Castle Fiber. I currently have Xfinity gigabit but I would love to have a symmetrical gigabit option available. If they are laying fiber this close does that mean it could happen at some point? Who would the ISP be? You could ask at your local township or borough office what ISPs have franchise contracts for the area. 15 years ago I'd have said dslreports but I have no idea what that site does now. It used to list ISPs for your address so you could fruitlessly try to find broadband in the sticks.
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Oct 11, 2019 02:15
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eddiewalker posted:What do I need to do to make sure this doesn’t happen again? Are surge protectors not enough? I went outside and realized that the cable I had installed 6mo ago has a ground lug at the service entry, but it was never connected. Do I have grounds to complain at Comcast? Some UPSs have coax passthroughs, however I found they caused intermittent dropout at my old apartment with my Cyberpower UPS. ymmv whether it will work at all, no guarantees, I think it's probably intended more for cable television and I'm not sure cable internet necessarily stays within the same frequency bands. Yes, I would bitch at Comcast, I don't think they will cover the stuff that blew up but you absolutely should get it grounded properly.
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Oct 11, 2019 02:23
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eddiewalker posted:Hoping this is at least thread-adjacent: Last night we had a big storm and a it appears as though a lightning strike entered through my Comcast coax. Lightning arresters are no joke and that ground wire wouldn't have saved you. I mean, ask them because gently caress Comcast but if they refuse then that's likely final. Get the wire fixed, or as the lightning would have seen it: the microsecond alternative path with fusible link.
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Oct 11, 2019 02:50
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H110Hawk posted:Lightning arresters are no joke and that ground wire wouldn't have saved you. I mean, ask them because gently caress Comcast but if they refuse then that's likely final. Get the wire fixed, or as the lightning would have seen it: the microsecond alternative path with fusible link. Would this help? TII 212 Broadband Cable TV and Satellite Lightning Surge Protector 75 Ohm 5-1500MHz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016AIYU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eGeODbM8DSXT0
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Oct 11, 2019 10:16
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I think if your line takes a lightning hit then you're hosed regardless. Grounding will help with voltage spikes caused by someone else getting hit, but if you're in an area with cable on poles and there's a storm the only reliable thing to do is to disconnect your kit.
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Oct 11, 2019 11:01
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eddiewalker posted:Would this help? Probably for one way down the wire where you're only getting a large transient, but if you take a hit at your pole nothing short of a thick grounding path above the pole is going to save you. You need lots of conductive surface area for the lightning to ride. Lightning is a lot of electricity. It takes a lot of volts to jump small air gaps (spark plugs for example - Looking at somewhere in the 44KV range iirc,) this has jumped clear from the ground into the sky and the first few results from google tell me this is 10-120MV. It can cut trees in half. If that little thing saved you I would expect it to have literally exploded and still kill the first thing in line. If you want to save your electronics in a lightning storm, unplug them. TVs, fridge, landline telephones (lol), the cable and ethernet ports that run outside, the works. If it's a copper/aluminum wire that goes to the elements, unplug it.
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Oct 11, 2019 15:28
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Ehh, I don’t see any evidence of a direct strike. All my utilities are underground, if that makes matters worse. The same thing happened a few years ago when we were on DSL rather than cable, and we lost a modem, cheap router and one NIC. I went all-out in surge suppressors including for the phone lines, but somehow my vigilance slipped when we switched to cable.
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Oct 11, 2019 15:38
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Maybe try growing a big tree taller than the house or pole so hopefully lightning will strike that first before hitting your valuables? Also a big tree would be rad anyway. Bonus point with a giant copper rod on top as lightning rod.
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Oct 12, 2019 02:28
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Thank you thread, just threw another recommendation for SB6141 and TP-Link AC1750 at my father now that he's in his own place again. Meanwhile my own SB6141 is still quietly chugging along right beside my "fancy" ASUS RT-N66U. Having purchased both items back in 2013, when should I start looking at replacement? The SB6183 is on sale right now for less than the 6141.
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Oct 13, 2019 16:00
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