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Captain Lavender posted:Thanks. I've got the right size for sure - from the wall connection to the valve. I just looked at the threads on the output to the washer, and there are about 3/4 as many threads than on the other new one that was installed, don't know if that's a deal breaker. That should be fine. Use some teflon tape and you should be good to go.
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Oct 14, 2019 21:08
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Sweet thanks again.
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Oct 14, 2019 21:18
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Make sure you got the gender right. Otherwise, you'll need another part.
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Oct 15, 2019 01:39
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also applies to your bedroom
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Oct 15, 2019 04:39
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Is it common for contractors to order new granite or quartz countertops that only have one hole cut out, even when there is supposed to be a dishwasher? Ours did that, and there is nowhere for an air gap now. What is the easiest fix for this? Here's what I've tried so far. First, our handyman, who doesn't have the ability or the tools to cut a second hole through our quartz counter, tried to find an alternative. I actually caught him hiding the air gap from us -- still installed -- as I traced the drain pipes coming out of the dishwasher and snaking deep behind/between our cabinets. Jesus, if it had stayed that way, then every water surge that came through the air gap would have dumped water into our drywall. So that wasn't the solution. I went to the hardware store and bought the adapter for him to bypass the air gap, but he just made the hose drop straight down from the garbage disposal to the dishwasher -- no upward loop to prevent disposal gunk from getting down there. That's the condition it's in now. Since he left I've tried to make my own loop by jamming the hoses upward through the cabinet hole where the faucet is, but now they interfere with the movement of the faucet sprayer hose, and could be knocked back down. I guess I'll need to clamp it out of the way somehow. This all feels wrong and backwards. I have a plumber in here right now working on other jobs and he refuses to touch that, saying that there's no solution besides cutting out an air gap hole. What do homeowners usually do when their contractor only cuts one countertop hole even though there's a dishwasher? I thought I read that was a common arrangement... is it always completely unworkable? Happy Thread fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Oct 15, 2019 |
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Oct 15, 2019 20:02
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Ugh Our main water supply line is leaking somewhere. We assumed it was right next to the sump basin because of how heavy the leaking water was. But the pvc pip the line is running through obscured the actual location of the leak. The leak detection company can't pinpoint it either. So Monday they're chopping up more of the floor. This could get really ugly, really fast.
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Oct 15, 2019 20:14
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Dumb Lowtax posted:Is it common for contractors to order new granite or quartz countertops that only have one hole cut out, even when there is supposed to be a dishwasher? Ours did that, and there is nowhere for an air gap now. What is the easiest fix for this? Dishwasher air gaps must not be code in my area. I've never seen one and I've subsequently never seen a countertop with a hole for one. Edit: Just looked it up, in my area (Minnesota) they were not required until 2016, and all signs point to them becoming optional equipment when the new code goes into effect in 2020. Edit2: According to the Minnesota code it would not be legal to mount the airgap in a countertop in most cases. It has to be mounted in such a way that if it were to have water filling it, said water would discharge into the sink. This means that the hole for it should be in your sink unless your sink is undermounted, in which case it has to be right next to it. Check your local code before drilling any new holes. PremiumSupport fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Oct 15, 2019 |
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Oct 15, 2019 20:24
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melon cat posted:Is it possible to (easily) install separate shut-off valve, here? And I'm also thinking that we should get rid of the saddle valve completely and putting in a proper tee. Because the more I read about saddle valves the more they come off as an all-around terrible idea. Sorry for a "bump" or whatever, but anyone have any insight into getting at the valve for this tub without removing the tub surround? gvibes posted:I have a lovely mid nineties hot tub in a bathroom with separate hot and cold water handles. They just spin to turn the water on and off, but there is no “stop” to it, ie, I think I can keep on spinning it forever. It is now super finicky to get one side fully turned off—we usually have a slow drip. Is there some basic/dumb fix to this that does not require tearing apart tile to get to and presumably replace the valve? I took off the handle but I can't seem to remove anything else. I got a screwdriver under the lip of the metal thing but it doesn't seem to move. Pictures below. Any ideas? My wife said she asked a plumber we had over for something else, and he said he would need to tear open the tile to underneath, but that is second hand, and doesn't make any sense to me.   
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Oct 15, 2019 20:42
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PremiumSupport posted:Edit2: According to the Minnesota code it would not be legal to mount the airgap in a countertop in most cases. It has to be mounted in such a way that if it were to have water filling it, said water would discharge into the sink. This means that the hole for it should be in your sink unless your sink is undermounted, in which case it has to be right next to it. Check your local code before drilling any new holes. Yeah it's an undermount sink sadly, so there's nowhere to mount an air gap on top without cutting into the quartz instead. Our previous countertop did have that setup (countertop hole very close to the sink, pointing the water that way). I've seen water shoot out of those things, that's how I knew it was terrible that our handyman just stuffed it behind our cabinets.
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Oct 15, 2019 20:47
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Dumb Lowtax posted:Is it common for contractors to order new granite or quartz countertops that only have one hole cut out, even when there is supposed to be a dishwasher? Ours did that, and there is nowhere for an air gap now. What is the easiest fix for this? Ours goes into the side of the garbage disposal. There is a plug there you remove and it screws right on or hose clamps I forget.
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Oct 15, 2019 20:56
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As scary as putting holes in your new granite is--it isn't the hardest job if you have the right bit. With that said, tacking the dishwasher drain line to the bottom of the counter has been acceptable for a long time--air gaps just became code in our area as well, but our inspectors don't seem to be enforcing. If your drain line isn't long enough to reach the bottom of the counter and back down to the flange on the sink drain, there are dishwasher drain line extension kits for less than $15. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRM7OL42PxU
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Oct 15, 2019 21:01
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That brings up a good point, if this plumber is right that there's nothing he can do without a new hole cut, then wtf are those second holes in disposals even for. He won't even touch the hose setup over that? I'll just mount it with a loop myself somehow then. Might not have enough hose for a literal loop but I can definitely make it slope upward out of the disposal. How do you recommend I "tack" it on to the top of the cabinet?
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Oct 15, 2019 21:04
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H110Hawk posted:Ours goes into the side of the garbage disposal. There is a plug there you remove and it screws right on or hose clamps I forget. The air gap we're talking about is a device that goes between the dishwasher and the garbage disposal. In many areas it's no longer code to connect them directly because there's a small chance of dirty water backwashing from the disposal into the dishwasher and contaminating your fresh water supply. HycoCam posted:With that said, tacking the dishwasher drain line to the bottom of the counter has been acceptable for a long time--air gaps just became code in our area as well, but our inspectors don't seem to be enforcing. If your drain line isn't long enough to reach the bottom of the counter and back down to the flange on the sink drain, there are dishwasher drain line extension kits for less than $15. This would be what I would do as well, especially as it looks like code in my area is changing to not require air gaps in less than a year. PremiumSupport fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Oct 15, 2019 |
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Oct 15, 2019 21:05
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Rhyno posted:Ugh Yikes. So it's somewhere close enough that the water was filling the sump? Your copper supply line is run through a PVC pipe though the slab/foundation to the outside?
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Oct 15, 2019 22:19
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PremiumSupport posted:Dishwasher air gaps must not be code in my area. I've never seen one and I've subsequently never seen a countertop with a hole for one. I had a kitchen professionally remodeled in MN 3 years ago right after the code change. So guess what - I have a sweet airgap. It’s an undermount sink and it passed code with the airgap through the quartz next to the faucet. The plumber said most people just loop it under the cabinet after inspection and use the hole for a soap dispenser or filtered water dispenser so it’s not like anyone really believes it’s necessary.
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Oct 16, 2019 02:16
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angryrobots posted:Yikes. So it's somewhere close enough that the water was filling the sump? Your copper supply line is run through a PVC pipe though the slab/foundation to the outside? Initially we thought it was ground/rain water. So I installed a dry well. We then zeroed in on a leak in the main supply. Because of the amount of water right at the sump line, we assumed the leak was right there. There was also an existing patch in the floor here that supported the idea that someone had already tried to do something here. So we chopped the patch out and discovered that the main runs through a pvc pipe of unknown length. From here the plumber said we could either chop up the floor OR get the pro leak guys to come and do pressure tests to find out if cutting the floor is a waste of time. I'm hoping against hope when he gets here Thursday morning that the pvc pipe runs all the way past the edge of the house. If it does then we just have to dig a hole. Otherwise we have to cut into the floor of the basement and that's where it will get expensive.
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Oct 16, 2019 03:42
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Hey all, I previously posted about the possibility of a tankless electric water heater and was informed that generally they're terrible. Well, now I'm back to look for suggestion on a tankless GAS water heater, since the local gas company will install a gas line for free from the street to my house as long as I get a gas appliance hooked up within 6 months. I'm looking to qualify for an efficiency rebate from my gas company, so here are the efficiency requirements:   So...is it worth finding a tankless that has a .90+ EF from the AHRI, or would the extra cost from that offset the rebate? Is just the .82-.89 good enough? As for flow, I don't see myself ever having to have more than the washing machine (front load, so less water usage) and one faucet on at a time. I live by myself, so there won't be multiple showers or a dishwasher (don't have one) and a shower, for instance, at the same time.
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Oct 16, 2019 15:10
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DrBouvenstein posted:Hey all, I previously posted about the possibility of a tankless electric water heater and was informed that generally they're terrible. First off, whomever is giving the rebate needs to update their table, the EF rating system was replaced by UEF back in 2017. As for your question, probably not. The extra cost for a 90+ UEF machine will likely eat most if not all of the $200 additional rebate, and you'll see very little actual reduction in operating costs. When the EPA estimated operating cost of a machine is only around $200 a year, knocking 10% off that cost isn't going to be a deal breaker, and will probably result in actual costs that are below the minimum monthly service charge anyway.
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Oct 16, 2019 17:42
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DrBouvenstein posted:Hey all, I previously posted about the possibility of a tankless electric water heater and was informed that generally they're terrible. I got a gas tankless heater from Rinnai. I got completely hosed after I already installed it because the site I got it from literally had a typo on the "uniform efficiency", which I proved in screenshots. The state told me tough poo poo, and the retailer told me tough poo poo too so I'll have to sue the retailer in small claims if I can ever find the time for that bullshit. Make a thousand percent sure to compare the model against the manufacturer's website, call them on the phone, make sure it is the "uniform efficiency" number the state usually wants and not just the normal "efficiency rating" which the manufacture can just fabricate without it corresponding to government testing. Anyway at least it works great. Infinite hot showers and a little more space in the basement, hard to argue with that. Only downside is the sink takes like 30 second of running cold water before it heats up. edit: to answer your original question, it is probably worth it to get maximum efficiency for the best rebate; you have to factor in that your gas usage would be less the higher the efficiency is and calculate for the ROI of that Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Oct 16, 2019 |
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Oct 16, 2019 18:07
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Zero VGS posted:I got a gas tankless heater from Rinnai. I got completely hosed after I already installed it because the site I got it from literally had a typo on the "uniform efficiency", which I proved in screenshots. The state told me tough poo poo, and the retailer told me tough poo poo too so I'll have to sue the retailer in small claims if I can ever find the time for that bullshit. Make a thousand percent sure to compare the model against the manufacturer's website, call them on the phone, make sure it is the "uniform efficiency" number the state usually wants and not just the normal "efficiency rating" which the manufacture can just fabricate without it corresponding to government testing. I sorta wish I had gotten the high efficiency model, I only got mid-80 as I recall and it seems silly how much waste heat this thing sends off. It's definitely a bump in the gas bill, but for a single person it may be under the minimum bill. Especially if you switch to cold water washes like modern technology allows. Spite! Small claims should be really easy to do. Please do it!
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Oct 16, 2019 18:22
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PremiumSupport posted:First off, whomever is giving the rebate needs to update their table, the EF rating system was replaced by UEF back in 2017. Cool, thanks. I'll make sure to get in touch with the gas company (that's who the rebate is through) to clarify regarding EF vs UEF. H110Hawk posted:I sorta wish I had gotten the high efficiency model, I only got mid-80 as I recall and it seems silly how much waste heat this thing sends off. It's definitely a bump in the gas bill, but for a single person it may be under the minimum bill. I don't think my gas company has a minimum bill. I mean...it does in the sense that if even if I I used no gas at all I would get charged roughly $0.75 a day just for the luxury of being hooked up to their system, but there's no sort of "Min. $35 monthly bill if your usage is under XYZ amount." type of thing.
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Oct 16, 2019 19:14
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Some utilities do it like that, others do a tiered delivery charge. Your first 10 CCF might cost $16 to deliver, and then you pay a normal rate for the next 90 CCF, and a different rate for the following 400 CCF, etc.
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Oct 16, 2019 19:24
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My gas company has a minimum bill in a way, because they have a $12 "Customer Charge". This is allegedly because it costs them $12-per-person-per-month to keep track of gas meters and mail a loving bill.
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Oct 16, 2019 20:03
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I discovered my basement washer drain connects to my basement sewer line with the magic of silicone. The drain is pvc and drops down into buried cast iron pipe at the edge of the basement. There is a proper floor drain not far from the washer, but running the washer drain in would have been a big obstruction for moving around. I'm not sure if there's actually a T in the cast iron, or if they knocked a hole in it and called it a day. I am thinking about ripping out the silicone "gasket" and replacing it with mortar as an interim solution. Maybe with wax at the bottom to keep the mortar from running into the cast iron? Is this stupidest idea ever? Will mortar even grab the pvc? The basement isn't full of sewer gas, so it's sort of working right now...
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Oct 17, 2019 01:22
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jailbait#3 posted:I discovered my basement washer drain connects to my basement sewer line with the magic of silicone. The drain is pvc and drops down into buried cast iron pipe at the edge of the basement. There is a proper floor drain not far from the washer, but running the washer drain in would have been a big obstruction for moving around. This comes from IT, but I think it applies here: If it's currently working, don't gently caress with it. It may not be right, but it's working.
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Oct 17, 2019 17:30
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PremiumSupport posted:This comes from IT, but I think it applies here: If it's currently working, don't gently caress with it. I second that emotion Unless you're ready to replace everything properly, don't mess with it yet.
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Oct 17, 2019 18:36
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PremiumSupport posted:This comes from IT, but I think it applies here: If it's currently working, don't gently caress with it. Jus make sure that you don't listen to the voice in the drain. Nobody will see the blood.
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Oct 17, 2019 20:24
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gvibes posted:My plumber and HVAC guy both bitched to no end about saddle valves.
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Oct 21, 2019 02:56
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Last night water exploded out of our toilet. I didn't see it but it had enough force to get halfway up the nearby walls. What the hell is going on?
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Oct 23, 2019 09:20
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SurgicalOntologist posted:Last night water exploded out of our toilet. I didn't see it but it had enough force to get halfway up the nearby walls. What the hell is going on? That sounds like a backup of the municipal sewer line. It's about the only way you'd get a violent discharge like that from your toilet, and, in buildings susceptible to them, does happen during a heavy rain which overwhelms the municipal sewer system (many have their storm runoff systems tied in). If it hit you, chances are it hit your neighbors as well. The lower in your house you go, the more violent the discharge. Any opening in your sewer circuit can see one - usually it starts at the lowest-level toilet (largest aperature) and works its way back up your soil line to hit the lowest sinks, the washing-machine drain standpipe, etc. It reeks, too, because it's everyone's commingled raw sewage. If you own the home - see if you have a water backup endorsement attached to your homeowner's insurance . If you have one, clean--up should be covered up to a limit (usually $5000 to $10,000) Whether you own or rent, a backflow preventer should be installed as far down the line (ahead of and fixtures) as possible. This is a large check valve. This house needs one. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 13:13 on Oct 23, 2019 |
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Oct 23, 2019 13:08
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Lemme know if you need a drawing for this one. All my rainwater drainage for my house shares a sewer with the house's blackwater drainage. This is normal in my locale and is how the house was built. I'm shortly going to be adding some rainwater drainpipes (currently it just runs down the wall and into the ground) but I'm trying to figure out the best way to deal with sewer gases. Normally they can be ignored because they're venting up on the roof, but I now have several that will be taking rainwater from one storey flat roofs, and into open hoppers at that. These hoppers will be near and below the level of some windows. There's also new openable skylights on the two storey roof that might be an issue, might not. It's likely that I'll be using some of the drainpipes to act as vents during flushes etc, though that isn't required, it's mostly to avoid having multiple side by side pipes on the house. How do I funnel rainwater while keeping debris out and sewer gas in? Do you use p traps on 4" underground pipes? Or the 3" pipes draining into them? If I have to put traps on all the drainpipes presumably I'd have to run a dedicated vent stack? And what happens in summer when the trap evaporates?
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Oct 25, 2019 11:14
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Jaded Burnout posted:All my rainwater drainage for my house shares a sewer with the house's blackwater drainage. This is normal in my locale and is how the house was built. They do this in the city of Philadelphia as well. They deal with it by installing a combined-system rain leader - it's a combination outside drain & buried soil line - which goes from outside the house at grade, through the foundation wall, and ties in tight with the soil line inside the house. In most cases. there is a trap in the middle. Since this entire concern is 4" pipe, it's a rather large trap. Evaporation is not an issue unless there's a severe drought.
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Oct 25, 2019 13:42
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PainterofCrap posted:They do this in the city of Philadelphia as well. They deal with it by installing a combined-system rain leader - it's a combination outside drain & buried soil line - which goes from outside the house at grade, through the foundation wall, and ties in tight with the soil line inside the house. In most cases. there is a trap in the middle. Since this entire concern is 4" pipe, it's a rather large trap. Evaporation is not an issue unless there's a severe drought. So it sounds like I would need a) traps for each drainpipe (or branch from the soil pipe thereto), and b) a separate untrapped vent stack for general avoidance of draining traps within the house.
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Oct 25, 2019 14:02
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Jaded Burnout posted:So it sounds like I would need a) traps for each drainpipe (or branch from the soil pipe thereto), and b) a separate untrapped vent stack for general avoidance of draining traps within the house. I had a quick look at one of the ground drains that was never fully fitted, and guess what, it's got a trap in it. So, yeah, the above seems to be the case for sure. I'll need a dedicated vent stack.
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Oct 28, 2019 11:38
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PainterofCrap posted:That sounds like a backup of the municipal sewer line. I never answered, but thanks. That was my thought although it didn't reek - I think it was clean water. I've been meaning to ask about it but our doorman is on vacation at the moment. We live in a foreign country (Spain) with somewhat of a language barrier so these things are difficult, or at least slow. We rent, on the 4th floor of a 10-story building. Is it possible that it backflowed enough to reach one toilet on the 4th floor but not enough to reach any of our other fixtures? Maybe all the other lines already have a backflow preventer. Probably there's not much more that can be said until we ask around, but I at least wanted to provide that context.
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Oct 28, 2019 19:13
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SurgicalOntologist posted:I never answered, but thanks. That was my thought although it didn't reek - I think it was clean water. I've been meaning to ask about it but our doorman is on vacation at the moment. We live in a foreign country (Spain) with somewhat of a language barrier so these things are difficult, or at least slow. We rent, on the 4th floor of a 10-story building. Is it possible that it backflowed enough to reach one toilet on the 4th floor but not enough to reach any of our other fixtures? Maybe all the other lines already have a backflow preventer. Probably there's not much more that can be said until we ask around, but I at least wanted to provide that context. There had to be a major clog on your floor (the 4th) for that violent a backup to occur. If it happened at street level, the consequences would be increasingly dire, from “Ghostbusters” on the third floor, to “Biblical” at the street.
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Oct 28, 2019 19:29
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So, I'm buying a house. It has at least one sink with what appears to be an unvented S-trap. I don't think I can do too much about the S-trap, but the inspector recommended an air E: I would actually call it an O trap. it's functionally still an S trap, but wraps around on itself. Not entirely sure how to fit anything with what's there. Also not sure what the drain for that sink looks like in the basement, so I'll check that out once I own the place. carticket fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Oct 29, 2019 |
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Oct 29, 2019 02:54
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So, I bought a Toto Washlet to install onto my toilet, but am having some problems with the plumbing - namely that the fitting that is on the toilet already doesn't want to come off. It's a plastic fitting attached to a steel pipe coming out of the toilet, but it quite stuck on there, it doesn't turn with my hand at all, and if I use pliers to give it a little extra force (trying hard not to damage the plastic fitting), the whole pipe spins along with the plunger assemble inside the toilet. I can't seem to find a good place to get leverage to get this fitting off without damaging something - the exposed bit of the pipe is all threads that I'm worried about damaging, and the internal half of it is pretty flimsy plastic that seems too weak to use as the grip point on that side. Is there something I'm missing here?
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Oct 29, 2019 03:27
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 That should be what your fill valve/water inlet looks like. You shouldn't have to mess with anything beside removing the water source from the bottom of the fill valve (under the toilet's water tank). Make sure the water is off. Disconnect the water source, install the "T" provided by Toto where you just disconnected the water, reconnect everything, check for leaks, install a towel bar next to the loo, and your done. A combination of holding the fill valve in place from inside the toilet and using a larger adjustable wrench on the water supply line should be all the force you need to remove the supply line. If you do destroy the fill valve, have no fear. $30 to $40 gets a new fill valve/internals replacement kit. e: if you loosen the plastic nut touching the bottom of the toilet--prepare for your toilet's tank to drain on to the floor. So don't do that. Shouldn't need to do that unless you need to replace the fill valve. (in which case--empty the tank of water.  )
HycoCam fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Oct 29, 2019 |
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Oct 29, 2019 14:02
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Mr. Powers posted:So, I'm buying a house. It has at least one sink with what appears to be an unvented S-trap. I don't think I can do too much about the S-trap, but the inspector recommended an air ($25 for the valve.) https://www.amazon.com/Studor-20341-Mini-Vent-Adapter-Connection/dp/B00FQEX4UI (Studor is like Xerox--there are lots of companies that make the valve, but the brand name Studor has stuck as the catch all name in our area.)
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Oct 29, 2019 14:07
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