|
Thanks for the suggestions! The logging roads aren't super crazy, but they're rutted, and some have big enough chunks of gravel that it sounded like the undercarriage of my Fit was being torn out at 30km/h. The road up to one of the cabins we visited this summer was bad enough that I had to slow to a crawl at times in our old Outback and I'd be worried about a minivan flexing too much or bottoming out on roads like that. But also I'm probably overly-cautious and 90% of the time it'll be paved roads that are plowed semi-regularly in the winter. I'm in Northern BC, though, so the conditions can get pretty bad.
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2019 17:46
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 10:13 |
|
|
There's zero shame in going slow. You don't want to knock out your oil pan, transmission pan, etc. ESPECIALLY in a non-traditional offroad vehicle. I took my old Saturn on some seriously nasty roads that it had no business on, and it got it stuck decently. I know my Outback would have only done better in that it would have gotten me maybe 500 ft further before getting stuck - and then requiring a tow instead of being able to rock it out. I was able to get the Saturn out relatively easily. Also FWIW my Outback spent half its life in BC.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2019 17:52
|
|
|
So I actually mustered the courage to go so see a 1975 Fiat 124 Coupe (CC). I've been dragging my feet getting a classic because I'm actually a bit terrified as I've never driven anything older than a 1998 Mitsubishi Carisma. I think for $1800 it's hard to pass up a cheap entry into the classic car world. Parts are super cheap here in Europe as well. This brings me to: What the hell do I look for except obvious rust etc? The guy said he had the car fixed rust-wise by a friend and that it's "been done properly". Yeah ok. As long as the MOT people are happy it won't be any dangerous rust/dangerous fixes to structural parts. He's been driving it about 500km the last couple of months, so it drives OK. Refurbished brakes and changed the timing belt. Worn interior, and missing some trim pieces. I don't really care as I'm not looking to restore it to original anyway. So what else should I look for on a $1800 classic car? 
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2019 18:38
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:So I actually mustered the courage to go so see a 1975 Fiat 124 Coupe (CC). I've been dragging my feet getting a classic because I'm actually a bit terrified as I've never driven anything older than a 1998 Mitsubishi Carisma. I think for $1800 it's hard to pass up a cheap entry into the classic car world. Parts are super cheap here in Europe as well. Parts are fairly cheap for that one. Carrier bearing might be shot along with random suspension bits.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2019 18:55
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
just another posted:I need a vehicle that can comfortably sit five, plus a dog, and camping gear, and travel down logging roads and beat up rural highways. And handle with real winter driving. Buick Regal TourX (AWD station wagon)
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2019 19:04
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:Parts are fairly cheap for that one. Carrier bearing might be shot along with random suspension bits. Cool. Yeah I saw that one on Wheeler Dealers lol. It seems like the only "expensive" parts is stuff like some of the body trim, glass and bigger engine/transmission parts. Service parts, as well as random stuff like suspension, brakes etc are dirt cheap, which is nice. If I buy it I'm thinking first of all I'll just drive it, sort minor things. Get a feel for it. Then do stuff like performance and cosmetic stuff. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Oct 16, 2019 |
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2019 19:23
|
|
|
What is the best way to do a waterproof splice that isn't solder? I love soldering but I'm being told on vehicles there is too much vibration and my wires will fail. I'm creating a wiring harness for some exterior lighting, with one set of wires splitting out into two.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2019 22:58
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:What is the best way to do a waterproof splice that isn't solder? I love soldering but I'm being told on vehicles there is too much vibration and my wires will fail. I'm creating a wiring harness for some exterior lighting, with one set of wires splitting out into two. Butt crimp sleeves that have the built in heat shrink with glue. Also soldering is _fine_ if you do it right.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2019 23:04
|
|
|
I mean splicing two wires into a single wire. Like a tap, but waterproof.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2019 23:11
|
|
|
Alright so I'm helping my neighbor work on his 2002 Jaguar XJ8 (I KNOW SHUTUP I DON'T WANT TO TALK ABOUT IT), we're doing the rear carrier fulcrum bearings while we have the hubs out to do the wheel bearings (thank the stars I'm just having him take the hubs to a machine shop for that poo poo). They have to be precisely preloaded because of loving course they do. Here's what the manual says "Using 3.905mm shim and pre-load measurements as a datum, select two new shims of equal thickness to provide a pre-load measurement of 0.076 mm" When they say "pre-load", do they mean there should be that much space, or the other way around? Edit: Poking around a bit on Jaguar forums it seems I need to have negative space, i.e. compression, which makes sense for "pre-load". I'm just not willing to take anything for granted with how stupid this entire setup is. gently caress Jags forever. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Oct 17, 2019 |
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2019 23:42
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:I mean splicing two wires into a single wire. Like a tap, but waterproof. It's difficult as water can easily get in between the wires. OEMs use open-barrel splices which are then taped over. This results in a crimped joint which has the same size and shape as a soldered joint. I'd say the heat-shrinkable butt splices would still work well in this situation. I generally don't use these, as they are longer, more rigid, thicker, and more expensive than other options. However they are good to use occasionally, outside of harnesses, or in a pinch. They seem perfectly suited for your application. A lineman splice which is then soldered over shouldn't fail within the lifetime of the vehicle if done correctly (solder wicked throughout the joint). Such a splice should hold itself together even without solder. I use this method when I don't have any open barrel crimps to hand (which is pretty much always). Another advantage of the open-barrel splice is that you can join wires of different gauges without trouble.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 01:28
|
|
|
Pomp and Circumcized posted:It's difficult as water can easily get in between the wires. Open-barrel actually solves two of my problems. I have 14awg laying around which I'm using for most of the wiring, but the LED strips are 20 or 22 awg. A bucketload of open barrels is cheaper than a few step-down heat shrink butt crimps.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 05:03
|
|
|
Stupid question: any recommendations for a good long-term, outdoor, actually waterproof car cover? My wife got a new job that she can take the train to, and I really want to keep her shiny new-ish car in top shape while it sits out in the driveway. Paying for a garage isn't really feasible. Seems like most covers will protect against dust/leaves/sap and the like, but I'd really like something that'll handle the more severe rain/snow (NYC area). I bought a 5-layer one of Amazon with the highest/most reviews and the first rain we got, the car was damp underneath 
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 05:44
|
|
|
Snow Cone Capone posted:Stupid question: any recommendations for a good long-term, outdoor, actually waterproof car cover? My wife got a new job that she can take the train to, and I really want to keep her shiny new-ish car in top shape while it sits out in the driveway. Paying for a garage isn't really feasible. Seems like most covers will protect against dust/leaves/sap and the like, but I'd really like something that'll handle the more severe rain/snow (NYC area). If you decide to get one, be super careful putting it on and removing it and make sure both the car and the cover are as clean as possible or there is a big risk you'll scratch the hell out of the paint every time you put it on / remove it. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Oct 17, 2019 |
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 05:46
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:If you decide to get one, be super carefult putting it on and removing it and make sure both the car and the cover are as clean as possible or there is a big risk you'll scratch the hell out of the paint every time you put it on / remove it. poo poo, thanks for the reccomendation. This is the one I've currently got my eye on: https://www.budgecovers.com/protector-v-car-cover It says it's got a fleece-like lining inside for just that reason, but I'll still be careful. For both the lovely cover I tried and whatever one I end up going with, I'm taking it to a hand-wash place around the corner right beforehand. e: Here's a bit of context, feel free to mock the poo poo out of me: The car is a lease, about a year into a 3-year. It's only got like 4k miles on it, a 2018 Jetta SE. The wife getting a job she could easily take the train to was a total fluke. I already own my Passat and love the poo poo out of it, even though hers is slightly nicer I prefer mine. So at this point we're basically paying to have the car sit in the driveway, and I'm worried about keeping it clean and shiny for 
Snow Cone Capone fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Oct 17, 2019 |
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 05:52
|
|
|
edit is not quote
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 05:55
|
|
|
Wait a butt crimp is where the wires all go on on one side? In that case I meant the open barrel type where the wires go in either end, my bad.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 06:21
|
|
|
Snow Cone Capone posted:poo poo, thanks for the reccomendation. This is the one I've currently got my eye on: https://www.budgecovers.com/protector-v-car-cover Wax the car with a good quality wax to help protect against scratches. I don't mean the kind of wax you get at a typical car wash (unless they're doing it by hand).
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 15:11
|
|
|
spankmeister posted:Wait a butt crimp is where the wires all go on on one side? In that case I meant the open barrel type where the wires go in either end, my bad. Google says these are butt crimps 
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 17:54
|
|
|
Judas priest. There is no way in hell I would google that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 18:45
|
|
|
spankmeister posted:Wait a butt crimp is where the wires all go on on one side? In that case I meant the open barrel type where the wires go in either end, my bad. Butt crimp is where the wires go in either end and touch either other (butt up to each other) in the centre. They don't overlap. Open barrel crimp is similar, it's a shorter, U shaped crimp, the wires overlap inside and it's crimped just like the pin on a connector. The advantage of the butt splice is that you can get away without specialist tools. The downside is that you can't guarantee a good crimp when using multiple wires in one side. It's also hard to visually inspect, and the crimp is longer overall. Personally, I solder wiring joins in cars, but if I were to crimp, I would use open barrel crimps and adhesive lined heat shrink. I also use the corrugated plastic sleeving that OEMs love for "outside" wiring, when fully taped over, it does a great job of protecting your wires from the elements. Edit: butt crimp is pictured in the post above, open barrel splice is this: https://www.google.com/search?q=open+barrel+splice&tbm=isch Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Oct 17, 2019 |
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 21:58
|
|
|
This comes up on occasion, but solder is fine when done properly: https://nepp.nasa.gov/docuploads/06AA01BA-FC7E-4094-AE829CE371A7B05D/NASA-STD-8739.3.pdf I was taught to solder by a former Navy AWACS tech, and what I learned is basically the same as in that standard.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 22:11
|
|
|
Soldering leads is fine, just don't be the guy who inexplicably forgets that solder isn't an insulator
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 22:19
|
|
|
FWIW soldered connections are not acceptable in our connectors.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 22:21
|
|
|
I found this post on another forum while writing my earlier post, I think it sums it up quite well:quote:My general rules about splicing:
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 22:21
|
|
|
Pomp and Circumcized posted:[
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 22:23
|
|
|
A proper western union splice IS strain relief. (no, use the strain relief)
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 22:52
|
|
|
Just wondering if someone has a suggestion or idea. 2007 Mercury Mountaineer V8. My wife drives it in the winter, we haven't driven it since May or so, I figured the battery would be dead since health issues prevented me from running it over the summer, but when I tried to jump it with my truck it cranked no problem, but I had to crank it 5 or 6 times until it started. I let it run a few minutes, then shut it off and restarted it. No problem. This was Saturday. I decided to start it again today, dead battery, so I jumped it again, and again I had to crank it 5-6 times and then it finally kicked over. I think the battery is new last year, but it could still be bad, but any idea why it is taking so many cranks to start. It ran great all winter, no starting problems, turning right over, etc. the only thing that changed was letting it sit for the summer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 23:15
|
|
|
BJA posted:Just wondering if someone has a suggestion or idea. 2007 Mercury Mountaineer V8. My wife drives it in the winter, we haven't driven it since May or so, I figured the battery would be dead since health issues prevented me from running it over the summer, but when I tried to jump it with my truck it cranked no problem, but I had to crank it 5 or 6 times until it started. I let it run a few minutes, then shut it off and restarted it. No problem. This was Saturday. I decided to start it again today, dead battery, so I jumped it again, and again I had to crank it 5-6 times and then it finally kicked over. I think the battery is new last year, but it could still be bad, but any idea why it is taking so many cranks to start. It ran great all winter, no starting problems, turning right over, etc. the only thing that changed was letting it sit for the summer. One possibility is that the dead battery reset the engine computer. It then takes a few seconds of cranking for it to get enough info from sensors to bootstrap itself into a running configuration once it gets power again.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2019 23:27
|
|
|
BJA posted:Just wondering if someone has a suggestion or idea. 2007 Mercury Mountaineer V8. My wife drives it in the winter, we haven't driven it since May or so, I figured the battery would be dead since health issues prevented me from running it over the summer, but when I tried to jump it with my truck it cranked no problem, but I had to crank it 5 or 6 times until it started. I let it run a few minutes, then shut it off and restarted it. No problem. This was Saturday. I decided to start it again today, dead battery, so I jumped it again, and again I had to crank it 5-6 times and then it finally kicked over. I think the battery is new last year, but it could still be bad, but any idea why it is taking so many cranks to start. It ran great all winter, no starting problems, turning right over, etc. the only thing that changed was letting it sit for the summer. Try this, do key on engine off. Hear fuel pump prime. Then try to start and see if it is quicker starting.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2019 13:44
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:One possibility is that the dead battery reset the engine computer. It then takes a few seconds of cranking for it to get enough info from sensors to bootstrap itself into a running configuration once it gets power again. This. It's probably re-learning the crank position sensor. It's very common to get an extended crank after a dead battery. And your battery is probably toast.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2019 14:13
|
|
|
Yeah, battery is toast (notice the theme here lately). Should be a free replacement if you say is a year old. That, and you have gas that is 5 or 6 months old sitting in the tank. Toss a bottle of stabil in it, run the drat thing near empty then get some fresh gas in it. Hell I'm not a fan of additives but I'd toss a bottle of Techron in with the fillup.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2019 15:38
|
|
|
The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - Your battery is hosed
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2019 20:47
|
|
|
I'm going to replace the battery this week, I jumped it yesterday, let it run for 30mins or more and then today it was too dead to start. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2019 23:36
|
|
|
Per the OP posted:Tell us the make / model / year / engine type when asking questions about your car. Beyond that, the experts will ask for further details. Mazda / CX-5 (FWD)/ 2015 / 2.5L I need new tires. Use is commute and kid hauling in Norther California. Rarely on gravel, very rarely in Tahoe (snow and steep hills). Where does AI buy tires, and what brands are trusted/value? Edit: Replacing OEM tires. Fake double edit: I have bought from tirerack and had mount/balance done at Firestone for another car and had a fine experience.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2019 23:54
|
|
|
Stitecin posted:Mazda / CX-5 (FWD)/ 2015 / 2.5L I like to look at the reviews on Tire Rack and then just buy them from America's Tire Co cause they have good customer service and it's convinient. Without knowing which trim you have I'm not sure which wheel size you have, but, for example, here's a listing for the 17" wheels, sorted by consumer rating. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/Tire...minLoadRating=S
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2019 00:13
|
|
|
I am pretty sure I know the answer to this but I want a second opinion anyway. I went to check out my brother's 2006 Trailblazer with 201k miles because he's pretty sure it's not long for this world. He just bought a truck to replace it. Here is what I was greeted with: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbDNVZDp4DM It had no oil in it. I put oil in and it didn't get any better. I didn't think it would but I figured it was worth a try and it gave me an excuse to get rid of all of the random store-brand or off-weight quarts I've accumulated over the years. Anyway, that thing is going straight to the scrapyard, isn't it?
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2019 01:07
|
|
|
Yeah that sounds pretty screwed to me.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2019 01:09
|
|
|
Seconding, that's the 'spensive kind of noises.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2019 02:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 10:13 |
|
|
I've just replaced my fuel pump assembly in my 2003 Ford Taurus (SES / FFV, VIN: 1FAFP552X3G138465 ) and performance has substantially improved. However, I do have some rough idling that I had before and a very small trace of it at speed. Because I'd left the hood up after reconnecting the battery, I was able to notice a hissing that I hadn't noticed previously while the hood was down. I was able to track it down to where it is in the video and move my finger around it to illustrate the audible change in the hissing sound, which seems to be sucking air in. Might someone be able to identify what's going on and how to fix it? Edit: Opening the video in a new tab and hitting the speaker will play the audio properly.  https://i.imgur.com/xZx0PgA.mp4
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2019 03:17
|
|
