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I bought a California Air Tools compressor and the thing is crazy quiet. It may be out of your price range but if you ever have thought your compressor is too drat loud, you might look into them. Worth the money to be able to listen to music and hear yourself think while working in my opinion. E: I just looked up the one I have (8 gallon) and I apparently got it like 60% off on sale because they are crazy expensive. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Oct 17, 2019 |
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Oct 17, 2019 05:21
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Never tried to repair a microwave before. If a microwave now takes 3 minutes to heat something that always heated in 2 minutes--that is a sign the magnetron is going bad? Part of a double oven that is a 2014/15 era Kichenaid, which I believe is a rebranded Whirlpool.
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Oct 17, 2019 16:07
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SpartanIvy posted:I bought a California Air Tools compressor and the thing is crazy quiet. It may be out of your price range but if you ever have thought your compressor is too drat loud, you might look into them. Worth the money to be able to listen to music and hear yourself think while working in my opinion. D'oh, misread your post, thought it said there was currently a 60% off sale! Thanks for the suggestion. They definitely look nice but the price point + functionality is higher then what I need for garage projects and occasionally driving 16 gauge nails to be honest. The noise doesn't really bother me; I just slip on ear pro and ride the wave. Not that I want something super loud of course...
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Oct 17, 2019 16:56
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SpartanIvy posted:I bought a California Air Tools compressor and the thing is crazy quiet. It may be out of your price range but if you ever have thought your compressor is too drat loud, you might look into them. Worth the money to be able to listen to music and hear yourself think while working in my opinion. They also make models with aluminum tanks that are lighter and don't rust.
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Oct 18, 2019 03:25
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I've heard if you can get an oiled compressor they are a lot quieter.
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Oct 18, 2019 05:26
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HycoCam posted:Make roadie boxes / put big casters on your cabinets. Move them across the room or across town with ease. No need to break them down, just stuff your bedding or towels in there when you move. give me road cases, a box truck, and a crew, and I will move the world.
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Oct 18, 2019 16:17
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I just discovered this thread so I'm cross posting from the Haunted House Ownership Thread.Anonymous Zebra posted:Sorry to double post, but what do people know about insulation under the floor in the crawlspace? Essentially putting batts between the joists and keeping the floor above warm as the crawlspace cools off.
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Oct 18, 2019 22:38
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I'm curious about this as well.. my floor is quite cold in the winter. And my heater vents are ceiling mounted which probably doesn't help. I had wondered if insulating the floor would help any.
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Oct 18, 2019 22:58
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I'm not sure how it wouldn't help.
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Oct 19, 2019 18:34
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I have a toilet that was running so I replaced all the tank innards. It’s still running, though not as much. No external leaks. Before I go out and replace everything again, is there anything I can do to help seal it?
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Oct 19, 2019 19:00
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stevewm posted:I'm curious about this as well.. my floor is quite cold in the winter. And my heater vents are ceiling mounted which probably doesn't help. I'm going to be silly and answer my own question. I spent the last 24 hours researching this question and came upon a lot of analysis back and forth on how crawlspace insulation should work. The best site to summarize the whole thing is this one: https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-009-new-light-in-crawlspaces?topic=resources/cond-crawlspaces The short summary of that page is that old-style vented crawlspaces are working as intended when they are left uninsulated since warm humid air entering the colder crawlspace is going to condense somewhere. Uninsulated the joists and subfloor of the crawlspace will always be significantly warmer than the soil of the ground, so moisture will condense on the soil rather than on the wood. Since the actual air movement into crawlspaces is relatively low, most heat transfer going on in there is through radiation and conduction through the wood of the floor, so even on hot days the crawlspace will be cooler than the outside air (thus leading to condensation no matter what), but more importantly on cooler days the subfloor should be warmer than the soil (because the subfloor is being warmed by conduction from the warmer home). This all goes to poo poo the moment you slap insulation batts on your subfloor. Now the warmth from your home is not making it's way down into the joists below the subfloor, which might seem good since that's kind of the point of insulating it, but now the bottom of the insulation and any wood sticking out below where the insulation stops is going to be significantly colder and will likely be closer in temperature to the soil floor. Moisture entering the crawlspace will now condense both on the soil as well as on the bottom of the insulation and that colder wood. If the insulation is cellulose or fiber this moisture will start loving it up and making it moldy, and your wood will also start to get moldy. Even worse, since the wood higher up in the house (above the insulation) is warmer it will also be dryer which will basically cause the moisture below to wick up into the protected wood, and onto the bottom of your floors. So essentially the price you pay for a properly dry crawlspace is both cold floors in the winter and loosing a lot of heat/cold from ductwork that is in the crawlspace. The take-away is that at the minimum to properly insulate your crawlspace you actually need to put up batts and then spray foam a thick layer over the the batts AND the wood so that moisture cannot access it (a moisture barrier), or use an insulation system that covers the wood and is not susceptible to being degraded by moisture (there is a suggestion of the type of insulation to use on that site). The actual no-poo poo best path seems to be completely encapsulating your crawlspace with the help of real professionals that will install sump pumps and proper sheeting to wick moisture out of the crawlspace. Ideally you want to insulate the WALLS of the crawlspace and not the floor. That's my professional assessment from 24 hours of reading the internet. Take it with a grain of salt.
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Oct 19, 2019 23:19
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dupersaurus posted:I have a toilet that was running so I replaced all the tank innards. It’s still running, though not as much. No external leaks. Before I go out and replace everything again, is there anything I can do to help seal it? if it's running, and not going down the overflow, your flush stopper is leaking, so if you replaced it, the seat might be bad and need replacement/repair. https://www.korky.com/products/flapper-seal-replacements-flush-valve-replacements/2-universal-flush-valve-repair-kit-0 if it's running and going down the overflow, you need to adjust the fill valve to stop at a lower level.
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Oct 19, 2019 23:41
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Anonymous Zebra posted:. Thanks for that link. It's quite the interesting read. I kinda like the idea of encapsulating the crawlspace and making it a mini basement. More usable space. My crawlspace is quite high (I can stand up bent over in it). It could be a useful storage space...
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Oct 20, 2019 02:19
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Anyone here have plaster experience? I've got some plaster of Paris I've used before and always remembered that poo poo getting rock-hard within a half day or so. Like if I wanted to carve something into it, I needed to act pretty fast before it became so hard that even metal tools had trouble etching it. I just used a very old box of plaster of paris and the first thing I noticed was that it was a little lumpy so I mixed it extra good. Another new thing I noticed was what looked like steam rising off of it after I poured it, never seen that before. It's 24 hour later and I've de-molded them a couple hours after they went in but they are still incredibly weak and chalky just like when I de-molded them. Has my plaster gone bad?
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Oct 20, 2019 19:55
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Anyone know how to figure out / change the combination to an old safe? The previous owners left this in our house when they moved out. It's open, but we'd like to use it.
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Oct 20, 2019 22:58
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I have a Frigidaire gas oven that is about 6 years old. I just replaced the ignition (ignighter?) for the second time in 5 years. Is this a sign that the whole thing should be replaced sooner or later? FWIW I think all the appliances that came with my home were Contractor Specials or refurbished just due to minor performance annoyances. If it should be replaced, can you typically install an electric oven where a gas oven was, or is that usually a major change? I know the oven needs to plug into electricity, but I'm not sure if it's a high enough voltage back there.
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Oct 20, 2019 23:28
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CzarChasm posted:I have a Frigidaire gas oven that is about 6 years old. I just replaced the ignition (ignighter?) for the second time in 5 years. Is this a sign that the whole thing should be replaced sooner or later? No; ignitors go. I have the same Kenmore gas range I bought in 1994. Have replaced 3 of 4 burner ignitors and at least one for the range. When the PC board goes, it's time for a new unit - mostly because mine is NLA (along with most of the other parts) . Be mindful that the oven ignitor head is very, very brittle & sensitive to cracking at the slightest shock. If it's dropped it's usually totaled; if it still works, its life can be shortened significantly (although five years is not too bad, depending on frequency of use). CzarChasm posted:If it should be replaced, can you typically install an electric oven where a gas oven was, or is that usually a major change? I know the oven needs to plug into electricity, but I'm not sure if it's a high enough voltage back there. You have to run a 10-gauge 220V line, preferably 10/3 and also preferably a straight shot from the panel, up/down through the floor or wall, and terminate in a proper 220V receptacle. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Oct 21, 2019 |
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Oct 21, 2019 00:09
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Goon Danton posted:Anyone know how to figure out / change the combination to an old safe? Hire a locksmith.
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Oct 21, 2019 04:07
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If you can figure out the maker and the serial number you can try looking up the manufacturer for information on how to figure this out of reset it.
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Oct 21, 2019 04:22
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I want to replace my clawfoot tub with a standard modern one. The bathroom doesn't have an alcove, does anyone make traditional size/shape corner tubs, or will I have to frame out a little wall for an alcove tub to fit against?
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Oct 21, 2019 12:41
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Create a Facebook ad selling the claw foot to anyone in your area that follows hgtv and make a million dollars.
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Oct 21, 2019 13:20
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The Dave posted:Create a Facebook ad selling the claw foot to anyone in your area that follows hgtv and make a million dollars. It's just an acrylic one the former owner put in when he "remodeled" the bathroom, but I'll still probably be able to get a couple hundred for it. It'll help fix some of his screw-ups.
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Oct 21, 2019 13:24
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Toebone posted:I want to replace my clawfoot tub with a standard modern one. The bathroom doesn't have an alcove, does anyone make traditional size/shape corner tubs, or will I have to frame out a little wall for an alcove tub to fit against? 2-wall bathtubs were never very popular. Most corner tubs now are the big 5-sided ones that are more triangle shaped. You could always do a drop in tub with 2 sides.
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Oct 21, 2019 17:10
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kid sinister posted:Hire a locksmith. Seconding. With access to the back of the door, changing the lock out should be pretty simple, and relatively inexpensive.
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Oct 21, 2019 17:36
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Toebone posted:I want to replace my clawfoot tub with a standard modern one. The bathroom doesn't have an alcove, does anyone make traditional size/shape corner tubs, or will I have to frame out a little wall for an alcove tub to fit against? you can get "modern" looking freestanders https://www.us.kohler.com/us/starga...&brandId=964943  but the cheapest route would probably to build the knee wall and slide a standard 3-wall tub into the hole.
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Oct 21, 2019 17:48
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Qwijib0 posted:you can get "modern" looking freestanders Step 1: Pull up the subfloor and notch the engineered joists
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Oct 21, 2019 18:17
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Step 2: Install the waste line and don't check the slope.
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Oct 21, 2019 18:23
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HycoCam posted:Never tried to repair a microwave before. If not, don't. Anything. Microwaves are one of the worst things for DIY repair projects.
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Oct 21, 2019 19:33
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RabbitWizard posted:I guess you have some background like being an electrician or something? And you know how to unload a high voltage capacitor? Now that CRTs aren't really a thing anymore I think you're right that Microwaves have taken over as the most dangerous possible DIY projects.
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Oct 21, 2019 21:01
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RabbitWizard posted:I guess you have some background like being an electrician or something? And you know how to unload a high voltage capacitor? What this little thing?  I did one worse and wired up the transform to some alligator clamps  Honestly though, microwaves are not worth repairing. It is usually a piece that cost almost as much as a replacement.
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Oct 21, 2019 22:33
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RabbitWizard posted:I guess you have some background like being an electrician or something? And you know how to unload a high voltage capacitor? Yeah. I opened mine up as it'd been stepped on by a builder. I opened it, clocked the capacitor so I wouldn't touch it, checked that the dent hadn't touched anything important, and hammered the cover back to shape. That's as much "repair" as I was willing to do.
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Oct 21, 2019 22:40
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JEEVES420 posted:What this little thing? Seconding. I had to drill out rivets, just to open the case to replace the light bulb. And yes, it was screwed into a socket, why do you ask?
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Oct 21, 2019 22:49
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JEEVES420 posted:What this little thing? 
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Oct 21, 2019 23:49
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JEEVES420 posted:Honestly though, microwaves are not worth repairing. It is usually a piece that cost almost as much as a replacement. When mine went cold I swapped in a new magnetron for $60 and that sure as hell beat the prices I was looking at to replace an over the stove model with outdoor venting.
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Oct 22, 2019 01:26
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JEEVES420 posted:What this little thing? That's called the ouchy part.
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Oct 22, 2019 03:15
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We've been looking into possibilities for creating a fence to block out some of the sound of the highway and my wife saw something about using Hardie Panel with pressure-treated pine posts. We don't know how to determine whether posts will put up with the level of bullshit we're planning to subject to them. We'd be creating quite a bit of structure using 2x4's inside that is then sheathed with Hardie Panel. I mean, theoretically here. We haven't even figured out what we would do right at ground level because the projects we saw for this don't address that either. But I'm trying to get an idea of how I would take, say, psi data about these posts and determine how well they would put up with: 1. The 2x4's going between them that's holding structure to secure the Hardie Panels. 2. The Hardie Panels themselves. 3. The load of wind against the fence. We were gunning for 6x6's on the notion that 4x4's were wobbly based on one particular video, but they weren't framing out as much as we were planning to do. If you were more generally curious, we've been looking at other schemes, but it looks like external Hardie Panels are something like half the cost here than they were something like two years ago and it's all adding up to be cheaper if we can make that work somehow. Edit: IMO this scheme is a bit out there and I don't know how it would reach to the ground (to block out every last bit of sound) without rotting but I'm doing the math for my wife who looked this all up today and wanted to think about it. I got enough other crazy schemes going on lol. Rocko Bonaparte fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Oct 22, 2019 |
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Oct 22, 2019 05:46
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It's hard to offer advice and suggestions without a general lay of your land vs. the sound source as well as the size of the area you're trying to span, and its distance from your house BUT A marvelous muffler of sound can be made by planting a poo poo-ton of shrubbery/trees across the line of source. One of the best would be evergreen trees in two staggered rows; however, arbor vitae, English yew & other such medium-height greens work well. If you find that a fence with Hardie boards is your best solution, and ytou require an immediate impact, use shrubbery at the bottom. FYI I sided my garage with Hardie clapboard siding and ran it all the way to grade (which is not recommended). That was in 2004. It's been fine...however, I also have 2' deep eaves on my garage roof. It has gotten wet, but hasn't deteriorated.
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Oct 22, 2019 13:19
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PainterofCrap posted:arbor vitae These are a great tree for privacy and sound deadening, but if you have deer in your yard frequently, it can be a bad choice. Deer will eat everything on the tree they can reach, and leave your arborvitaes looking like mushrooms.
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Oct 22, 2019 14:49
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I have an old building with an original door we're updating with a new, dual-layered tempered glass piece - one big piece that will replace many small single glass panes (one of which is broken and the wrong size). Anyway, the glass panes are held in place by wood "trim" that goes around them. It's old and anyway, we're going to have one big glass assembly now. I was wondering what exactly the wood "trim" on the inside of a door that holds glass in place is called? I need to find and buy some, but damned if it's not hard to find out what it's called. If I search for window trim or molding, it's invariably the stuff that goes around the frame of the door. In the case anybody knowledgeable on exterior doors is able to answer, are there any dos or don'ts for painting an exterior door that are worth mentioning? Is it necessary to apply a clear coat after applying exterior paint or is that a preference thing? Nail Rat fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Oct 22, 2019 |
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Oct 22, 2019 15:30
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I am not any kind of expert but I am desperate to avoid my actual work so I spent some time digging around, and I think that the term you would be looking for is a 'stop'. Seems like it would be called with a 'window stop' or a 'glass stop', not sure if there is a specific difference in application or just a variation in terms. A similar thing is called a 'glazing bead', but I think this is only fitted to aluminum windows and not a wooden frame like you are asking about. Here are some links I found - that last one is about windows rather than doors but seems similar enough. Edit: Functionally, I think this is basically the same as a very small/narrow trim so you might want to look for a small size of trim or moulding, maybe under cabinetry trim for the appropriate size? Ashcans fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Oct 22, 2019 |
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Oct 22, 2019 15:49
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