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Sockser posted:This thing is 8 3/8” long, I need a piece that covers half of that— going to 4 3/16 is some real quick maths, vs trying to divide 21.27cm in half means I need to go snag a calculator Nah that's easymode. Live converting grain and hop weights at the brewing store was always fun while buying ingredients, that and converting between fluid volumes and cups etc while cooking. I am also a mech. eng so I gotta be good at mental maths lol
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Oct 13, 2019 12:33
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Spent my Saturday morning building a planing fixture on my work bench because it's easier to use my battery planer to bring the pencil round edges off hardwood than to drive an hour in Sydney traffic and then pay for shop time at the local makerspace On the plus side I now have 3x 730mm square dressed blackbutt boards at 70x45(ish) mm and am nearly ready to go thickness the slabs of red gum and to square up the random offcuts and make this drat butcher block
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Oct 13, 2019 12:36
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My mother, knowing that I've been doing some woodworking, has sent me a photo of the gear her joiner has brought on site: Interesting portable workbench, also peepin' some festool.
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Oct 14, 2019 15:21
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I've seen those benches before, PaulK bench I believe.
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Oct 14, 2019 15:40
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Guy I know makes and sells them on Craigslist, his name isn't Paul though 
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Oct 14, 2019 20:03
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I like the image of the dust extractor covered in sawdust
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Oct 14, 2019 20:10
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A friend is trying to add legs to a drop-down folding table that came stock with their apartment; it's one of these:  It's a fairly rickety installation that they don't trust with much weight, and would much prefer to leave it down most of the time and would prefer the look + support of legs, but would like the option of folding it away as needed. Any ideas for a fairly painless/off-the-shelf way to do this? Proper folding table leg hinge hardware is expensive and not likely to be specifically-useful all that often, and the table folding down w limited clearance behind creates big problems for the legs folding away between tabletop and wall, so I was thinking of skipping folding legs altogether and fully removing them for when the table gets folded away: - unscrew the support bracket along w its hinges and put in a safe place for when they move out; - attach four leg mounting brackets at the table underside corners, small versions of this scaled to the table  - make/buy four simple legs of the proper length w the needed threaded stud connectors - screw in when required, unscrew when not the table hinge can't deflect much upwards past the flat plane but it -should- be enough to get at least the outermost pair of legs under the brackets w enough clearance to screw them in. if not, they'll probably be limited to legs w height-adjustable feet/glides, so they can get the clearance they need for installation and then remove it. i'm also worried about the leg and bracket support w that approach; the tabletop isn't a great anchor for the brackets, although it could probably be built up a bit with some contoured plywood bits glued to the underside or used to create the visual effect of... plinths? pediments? idk the exact term- for the legs while permitting the use of longer screws anyways- is there a less stupid / more graceful way of doing this that doesn't involve $100 in specialized hardware or significantly modifying the table? Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Oct 14, 2019 |
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Oct 14, 2019 23:12
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How high off the floor is the surface of the table? Or to put it another way, is it the case that the table legs need to be taller than the table itself is from hinge to outer edge? And I realized that you're just using that image as an example, so are those the actual measurements in the image? And, you said it "came stock with their apartment" which is a bit of a weird phrase. Is their apartment a motor home? If not, how about unscrew the thing from the wall, stick it in a closet, and put a small table where it was?
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Oct 14, 2019 23:34
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Leperflesh posted:How high off the floor is the surface of the table? Or to put it another way, is it the case that the table legs need to be taller than the table itself is from hinge to outer edge? Yeah, the legs are longer than the surface is long, so the legs can't just fold up against the tabletop in the usual manner without hitting the wall. I -believe- the measurements are the same but I'll verify that. My friend's landlord is a control freak and declined allowing the temporary removal of the table, which is basically kosher under this province's tenancy laws. Doing it anyways is probably more headache than it's worth. The space is also small enough that it's legit hard to find tables that work in the space that aren't rickety card tables or one-sided console tables that can't seat people across from one another. And getting a whole new table that fits their decor is probably out of budget, but some suitable legs stained to match the top will be more reasonable.
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Oct 14, 2019 23:46
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In that case my first instinct would be to build some sort of sturdy frame that just slides under the table and wedges itself there to hold up the table. No modification of the table itself whatsoever, just a few bits of maybe 1x1 that you stick together using whatever hardware you like. It would not be convenient to store but maybe you can tuck it in a closet somewhere when not in use. Like here's a super quick sketch, add or remove the bracing as needed for sturdiness although I think given how the table is attached, racking isn't a big concern.  Maybe put some little rubber feet on the top and the bottom to help it grip the underside of the table and the floor? If you wanna get real fancy you could make it so it folds flat but I'd be doing this with scraps of cheap wood and just cover my sins with paint, and consider it a disposable object whenever they move out.
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Oct 15, 2019 00:04
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IKEA et al make screw in legs with brackets like pipe flanges for reasonably cheap and they’re not super duper sturdy, but that’s probably the best option. You can also get the kind of hardware you showed and screw an appropriately sized hanger bolt in the end of whatever leg you can find. I’d just leave it attached the the wall and just use two legs at each of the corners away from the wall. There’s probably some office furniture kind of thing made with adjustable threaded feet like machinery mounts too. A hard kick the the bottom of any of those options has a decent chance of ripping the screws out of the lovely particleboard top, so it’ll need being somewhat careful around. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/olov-leg-adjustable-black-30264301/h
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Oct 15, 2019 05:06
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McSpergin posted:Nah that's easymode. How many cups is a shoulder of 10oz leather? Jaded Burnout posted:My mother, knowing that I've been doing some woodworking, has sent me a photo of the gear her joiner has brought on site: I want to build one of these to replace the top on my fixed workbench but I get stressed about getting the hole placement accurate enough. Also I'd have to find the top of my workbench first, it's under there somewhere...
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Oct 15, 2019 10:11
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Any ideas what wood this is? I'm assuming pine..? (click for big)
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Oct 15, 2019 11:16
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Yeah that's pine to me.
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Oct 15, 2019 11:34
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Leperflesh posted:In that case my first instinct would be to build some sort of sturdy frame that just slides under the table and wedges itself there to hold up the table. No modification of the table itself whatsoever, just a few bits of maybe 1x1 that you stick together using whatever hardware you like. It would not be convenient to store but maybe you can tuck it in a closet somewhere when not in use. I think this is the way to go, yeah. Like Kaiser Schnitzel said, the tabletop itself isn't a sturdy or reliable anchor for the legs as-is, and if I have to modify it to make it sturdy enough to not get torn out when someone stubs their toe then i might as well solve several problems at once and brace the legs against one another. vs. against the tabletop. It'd definitely have to break down flat, but that's not much extra work- design it as two parallel frame sections, each having two legs and appropriate bracing/rails (it only needs two legs but they want four to look more like a conventional table), joined with a number of same-length cross-rails and knock-down hardware, so it all stores in as narrow a space as the widest member in the design.
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Oct 15, 2019 16:53
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Jaded Burnout posted:Any ideas what wood this is? I'm assuming pine..? (click for big) It looooks like some sort of pine, but could also just as well be most any sort of spruce/pine/fir. They can be difficult to tell apart from one another.
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Oct 15, 2019 17:46
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Interesting to see square cut nails being used so late (isn't your house early 1900s?). I thought they'd mostly been phased out by the 1890s. They're usually pretty easy to bang out from the backside without much of a fight because they're wedge shaped, and usually are soft wrought iron so they don't do quite as much damage when you hit them with a sawblade as steel ones. I've found square nails in my house built in the early 1920s. They're not everywhere, but they're definitely in places where you're doing the building and not ornamental stuff. Then again Chicago, so there's an entire portion of houses built by one contractor that used non-standard sized everything, so if you wanted repairs you'd have been buying from his building supply. When the guy died, and his store closed, it made things really annoying for a lot of people. Now there are building codes that keep that from being annoying. Unless you don't want to replace your sewer mains regularly, because you're definitely using clay pipes for anything taller than a few stories. Our building codes are f'd up. In other news, I'm almost done putting up my leg vice, so I can finish cutting my joinery for a coffee table without swearing every three minutes.
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Oct 15, 2019 18:04
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Interesting to see square cut nails being used so late (isn't your house early 1900s?). I thought they'd mostly been phased out by the 1890s. 1908, yeah. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:They're usually pretty easy to bang out from the backside without much of a fight because they're wedge shaped, and usually are soft wrought iron so they don't do quite as much damage when you hit them with a sawblade as steel ones. Probably true, but would've involved bracing the wood properly, bending them straight enough to knock out, not accidentally bending them more while knocking them out, hitting myself in the thumb on a cold morning.. etc. Wasn't in the mood. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It looooks like some sort of pine, but could also just as well be most any sort of spruce/pine/fir. They can be difficult to tell apart from one another. Fair enough. I mostly wanted to confirm it was some form of low value softwood so as to not bother trying to extract more usable wood from the reject pile.
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Oct 15, 2019 18:07
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Interesting to see square cut nails being used so late (isn't your house early 1900s?). I thought they'd mostly been phased out by the 1890s. years and years ago, back when i had a lot more time to kill than i do now, i forged a couple dozen copper square tacks from heavy-gauge wire, fabricated a few matched pairs of strap hinges + a hasp from salvaged scrap brass, and used them to assemble a rough little box made from panels out of another, much older box (can't find any pics of it, rip) i like to think about someone stumbling onto that in the future and being entirely unable to determine its age or provenance
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Oct 15, 2019 18:11
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Jhet posted:
Wait, Chicago requires clay sewer pipe? Why? I know it has some really weird electrical code too.
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Oct 15, 2019 20:20
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shovelbum posted:Wait, Chicago requires clay sewer pipe? Why? I know it has some really weird electrical code too. No good reason that anyone has told me (aka Chicago politics). We can’t use PEX for our plumbing either last I checked. Basically, if there’s anything convenient or easier to use created in the last 50 years, I probably can’t use it to code. I went out to check on my Magnolia tree that has a scale problem and leaned a branch off. I guess maybe I’ll get to carve some spoons from the trunk when I cut it down this week. Cold weather project list is filling up quickly.
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Oct 15, 2019 21:03
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I ended up signing up for that hand plane class at Woodcraft. I'm glad I did it, and I'll probably do the hand cut dove tail class the guy offers as well. I've never really been great at hand planing. I've watched stuff on youtube, but there's something about someone being able to show you in person exactly how to dial in what you're going for or fixes to things you might be doing wrong. Also, and this is a no-brainer, but it hammered in the importance of having your tools properly sharpened. The class was started off by learning the basics with some wood river #4 planes that were properly tuned and sharpened. Watching the paper thin curl of wood pop out was immensely satisfying. He then went over different ways to prep wood you might be working on, grain direction, etc.. We then completely disassembled the planes, and put them back together to get the hang of dialing it back in to where you want it, then discussed fixing up old planes and also steps that might be needed for even brand new, out of the box planes. (basically how to tune the blades). I'm positive I could get the same info from watching Paul Sellers on Youtube or something, but as I said there is something to having someone to actually physically show you something. (those are my grandfather's old planes in the picture below) 
AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 12:15 on Oct 18, 2019 |
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Oct 18, 2019 12:11
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Woodriver really are great, especially for the price. Like 95% as good as lie nielsen/lee valley in terms of function but 40% cheaper.
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Oct 18, 2019 14:59
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Anyone have experience with sound dampening a workbench? My current setup is 1/2" MDF on a 2x4 frame, and seems to amplify the noise of carving with a mallet. My first thought is to hang some heavy blankets from the sides to muffle any reverb, but what else could I do? Attach some weight to the underside of the MDF to dampen vibrations?
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Oct 21, 2019 21:25
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It sounds like you've literally build yourself a drum to carve on. Maybe increase the number of crossbars under your benchtop and secure your top to them to cut down on vibrations. If you've got 2-3 already going along the depth, add some going along the length, as well? A thicker top (when it comes time to replace it) will help, too. Maybe use proper ply over MDF (or even slabs of 1.5 construction timber).
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Oct 21, 2019 21:35
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dupersaurus posted:Anyone have experience with sound dampening a workbench? A thicker top, more 2x4 bracing, really anything to make it bounce less. My plywood/2x4 bench is loud as hell when you bang on stuff, but the big thick workbench just is a dull thump. The less stuff that can vibrate/the less it vibrates the whiter it will be. You might could screw 3/4” homasote/celotex to the underside between the 2x but it would probably be best between the mdf and 2x? But it might just get squished there.
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Oct 21, 2019 21:57
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I'm sorta-kinda warming up the parts of my circuits dedicated to the kitchen build I have ahead of me. I have layouts done and rough ideas of what's needed where, but I'm curious if y'all have any particular preference for euro vs face-frame cabinets, other than cultural inertia? Being euro-adjacent means it'll likely be easier to find hardware to fit that style, but I'm open to people's experiences.
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Oct 21, 2019 22:15
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm sorta-kinda warming up the parts of my circuits dedicated to the kitchen build I have ahead of me. I have layouts done and rough ideas of what's needed where, but I'm curious if y'all have any particular preference for euro vs face-frame cabinets, other than cultural inertia? I don't have a ton of experience making kitchen cabinets, but Euro stuff is faster to make if you're set up for it and good at it, but you need to use a higher quality plywood and have a good system for edgebanding to hide the edge of the plywood. Iron-on edgebanding is a thing but in my experience it fuckin sucks. You have a less room for error with Euro stuff. Faceframes take longer (gotta build all those face-frames) but you can use cheap lovely plywood and you don't have to worry about edgebanding and the solid wood frame is easier to work with to get things to fit just right. Are you planning to do it yourself? If so, I would say face-frame for sure. You can hide lots of sins behind a face frame. Consider getting someone else to make your doors and drawers (at least in the US, even commercial cabinet shops often outsource this to factories that just make doors and drawers all day) because those are a little hard to build and frame and panel doors really need a router table or shaper to make. Building cabinets is pretty repetitive and it takes up way more space than you'd think too-you need plenty of room around the tablesaw and all those boxes take alot of space before they're installed. You can pocket screw face frames together and that's mostly fine or mortise and tenon or dowel or biscuit them together depending on how much  you want to put in.
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Oct 22, 2019 00:18
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Both have pros and cons. Aesthetically, you can moooostly make faceframe cabinet look like Euro ones with full overlay doors/drawers fronts. With some adaptations you can absolutely use euro style hardware with face-frame cabinets, and some of the Euro hardware manufacturers (I know Blum does) make euro hinges that fit onto face-frames even with a full overlay door. No idea if that stuff would be available in Europe since its mostly frameless cabinets there, but you can always put some blocking behind the face-frame and make it work that way. Face frames are theoretically a little stiffer/stronger, but both styles are more than strong enough for their job. This. Unless you're confident you can build a perfectly squared box multiplied by a dozen or so, along with a pile of perfectly squared doors and fronts, don't do pure Euro. I occasionally used to build frame and panel doors with a single shaper because I liked them, but I didn't do that every day. And I built and/or installed somewhere in the neighborhood hundreds of kitchens. Yet, you have to start with either glued up panels from a shop or be good at gluing them up and flattening them yourself. Depends on how much of yourself you want to invest in the thing. So, in the end, as Kaiser says, you'd be better off pricing them out.
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Oct 22, 2019 01:34
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Huxley posted:It sounds like you've literally build yourself a drum to carve on. Maybe increase the number of crossbars under your benchtop and secure your top to them to cut down on vibrations. If you've got 2-3 already going along the depth, add some going along the length, as well? Kaiser Schnitzel posted:A thicker top, more 2x4 bracing, really anything to make it bounce less. My plywood/2x4 bench is loud as hell when you bang on stuff, but the big thick workbench just is a dull thump. The less stuff that can vibrate/the less it vibrates the whiter it will be. You might could screw 3/4” homasote/celotex to the underside between the 2x but it would probably be best between the mdf and 2x? But it might just get squished there. Cool cool. I've been thinking about beefing it up and making it more of a real bench, so here's a good excuse!
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Oct 22, 2019 14:02
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Mr. Mambold posted:This. Unless you're confident you can build a perfectly squared box multiplied by a dozen or so, along with a pile of perfectly squared doors and fronts, don't do pure Euro. I occasionally used to build frame and panel doors with a single shaper because I liked them, but I didn't do that every day. And I built and/or installed somewhere in the neighborhood hundreds of kitchens. Yet, you have to start with either glued up panels from a shop or be good at gluing them up and flattening them yourself. Depends on how much of yourself you want to invest in the thing. So, in the end, as Kaiser says, you'd be better off pricing them out. I'm thinking of building 1-2 hutch / credenza / cabinet type bits of furniture in the house. I was wondering if anyone had a thought on using say 1/2" MDF as a panel, I could cut it with a long Ogee bit or something and run that into the groove on the frame. Thinking of solid stained wood frames and painted MDF panel interiors. This cuts down on building perfect glued up panels etc. Any reasons not to do this or things to avoid? I'm still in the super early planning phases so am kinda looking for points of failure etc.
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Oct 22, 2019 18:21
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That Works posted:I'm thinking of building 1-2 hutch / credenza / cabinet type bits of furniture in the house. I was wondering if anyone had a thought on using say 1/2" MDF as a panel, I could cut it with a long Ogee bit or something and run that into the groove on the frame. Thinking of solid stained wood frames and painted MDF panel interiors. This cuts down on building perfect glued up panels etc. Any reasons not to do this or things to avoid? I'm still in the super early planning phases so am kinda looking for points of failure etc. Use paint grade plywood if you just plan on painting or use hardwood veneer faced plywood to match your stained solid wood. You will be 100x happier with the end result and it will last much longer.
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Oct 22, 2019 19:19
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JEEVES420 posted:Use paint grade plywood if you just plan on painting or use hardwood veneer faced plywood to match your stained solid wood. You will be 100x happier with the end result and it will last much longer. If the panel is raised and has an ogee cut around the borders that then act as a tongue to ride in the groove of the frame wouldn't that be odd with plywood? I guess if I was going to paint that I'd need to put a lot of putty etc on it to make it not look weird before painting wouldn't I?
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Oct 22, 2019 23:22
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That Works posted:I'm thinking of building 1-2 hutch / credenza / cabinet type bits of furniture in the house. I was wondering if anyone had a thought on using say 1/2" MDF as a panel, I could cut it with a long Ogee bit or something and run that into the groove on the frame. Thinking of solid stained wood frames and painted MDF panel interiors. This cuts down on building perfect glued up panels etc. Any reasons not to do this or things to avoid? I'm still in the super early planning phases so am kinda looking for points of failure etc. A) it's going to destroy your bits B)  You can do like JEEVES mentioned, or as an alternative, a lot of folks use 1/4" plywood birch, oak, ash, etc. as the panels. Easy peasy to cut out and frame. edit- but honestly, if you're just building a single or 2 cabinets, you can glue up 3/4" hardwood and clean it up. Typically 4" of the width of any door is frame material. Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Oct 23, 2019 |
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Oct 23, 2019 01:48
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I decided to get my act together on these cutting boards I've been planning This one is a bunch of scraps and offcuts and a few actual pieces I bought for it. There's zebrano, NSW red gum, Tasmanian oak, Laos rosewood, cherrywood, rengas, blackbutt, and silky oak. It's not glued here but size is about 350x300mm.  This is the next one, which is alternated red gum and blackbutt. I'll cross cut it and glue it into a checkerboard pattern. It's about 500x300mm, I want to take a couple 50mm slices across the smaller board and make borders for the bigger board, then shape what's left into a platter or cheeseboard
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Oct 23, 2019 02:50
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McSpergin posted:I decided to get my act together on Speaking of, my mum asked me to make a couple of platters, and its been ages since I actually did anything in the shop, but seeing that finish go on made me want to do more.  All i can see is the discoloured bit on the right of the join, but the few people I have shown it to havent mentioned it so ehhhh
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Oct 23, 2019 07:01
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NPR Journalizard posted:Speaking of, my mum asked me to make a couple of platters, and its been ages since I actually did anything in the shop, but seeing that finish go on made me want to do more. What timber/s have you used there
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Oct 23, 2019 07:32
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McSpergin posted:What timber/s have you used there Jarrah. I love the way it looks. I hate the dust it creates.
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Oct 23, 2019 07:42
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NPR Journalizard posted:Jarrah. I love the way it looks. I hate the dust it creates. Jarrah is S tier, along with huon pine and red gum
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Oct 23, 2019 10:10
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Both have pros and cons. Aesthetically, you can moooostly make faceframe cabinet look like Euro ones with full overlay doors/drawers fronts. With some adaptations you can absolutely use euro style hardware with face-frame cabinets, and some of the Euro hardware manufacturers (I know Blum does) make euro hinges that fit onto face-frames even with a full overlay door. No idea if that stuff would be available in Europe since its mostly frameless cabinets there, but you can always put some blocking behind the face-frame and make it work that way. Face frames are theoretically a little stiffer/stronger, but both styles are more than strong enough for their job. Mr. Mambold posted:This. Unless you're confident you can build a perfectly squared box multiplied by a dozen or so, along with a pile of perfectly squared doors and fronts, don't do pure Euro. I occasionally used to build frame and panel doors with a single shaper because I liked them, but I didn't do that every day. And I built and/or installed somewhere in the neighborhood hundreds of kitchens. Yet, you have to start with either glued up panels from a shop or be good at gluing them up and flattening them yourself. Depends on how much of yourself you want to invest in the thing. So, in the end, as Kaiser says, you'd be better off pricing them out. From an aesthetics standpoint I don't mind either, so long as the face frame doesn't make a lip that you have to lift things over when taking them in and out of the cabinets. I'm also not settled on a style yet (very early day musings right now) but I will likely paint them or use good quality plywood if the surface is visible. I don't mind the look of plywood edges if they're finished nicely, i.e. sanded and sealed, I don't need to bother with edge banding. Aesthetically I don't like things pretending to be something they're not, so I tend to either come to terms with the look or use a different material. I am planning on making it all myself (or as much as is reasonable given my skills and levels), but I'm totally fine investigating the construction methods involved in a particular style and going for one that more closely matches my setup. That is in a sense another facet of something accurately reflecting what it is. It's my kitchen, and I'm OK with it being made in a way that I can manage. Something that's off the table (lol) right now is building up panels, since I don't have a biscuit-cutter, jointer, or powered planer. I did it with my workbench but the level of flatness I achieved is unacceptable for a nice piece of furniture and I'm not sure I have the time or energy to get that good.The other side of that coin is I'm not planning on doing a second one in this house, so I'm happy to take the time to do it right. I've been using a temporary kitchen for nearly 2 years now. I'll take a poke around at what hardware is available locally for face frame style cabinets, but it's sounding like that's the route to take for me.
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Oct 23, 2019 12:16
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