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BubbaGrace posted:None. Battery backup are trash. Get a water powered. This plan fails for those of us with a well. If that's the case you need a backup generator.
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Nov 4, 2019 17:56
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Motronic posted:This plan fails for those of us with a well. Good point. I forget there are still people out there on well systems. I never see them in my area, so I usually don't consider it.
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Nov 4, 2019 17:58
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I am on a well! Gas generator is fine if I'm home, not so helpful if power goes out while I'm not there. Full nat gas backup + automatic transfer switch is out of the question ($$$$). I'm getting ready to re-finish my basement after a 3 hour power outage caused the sump to overflow a month ago, and really don't want to deal with that again.
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Nov 4, 2019 18:06
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brugroffil posted:I am on a well! If you can't afford an auto-start generator that can run the sump pumps that you very obviously need in your basement then I'd suggest not re-finish your basement. Other options could be along the same costs as the generator, but include properly grading so the pumps aren't necessary or a gigantic rack of batteries to run your sumps for a largely unknowable amount of time - I suppose that is a risk calculation you'll have to make on your own based on frequency/duration of utility outages. If insurance is paying for this repair you might want to approach them about mitigation as well. Of course that may lead to them telling you that they won't cover the basement finish anymore unless you buy a generator.
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Nov 4, 2019 18:13
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Motronic posted:If you can't afford an auto-start generator that can run the sump pumps that you very obviously need in your basement then I'd suggest not re-finish your basement. Other options could be along the same costs as the generator, but include properly grading so the pumps aren't necessary or a gigantic rack of batteries to run your sumps for a largely unknowable amount of time - I suppose that is a risk calculation you'll have to make on your own based on frequency/duration of utility outages. Completely unknown runtime is a good point. This is the first outage of more than a couple of minutes that I can remember in the 4 years we've lived here. This was also an "8 inches of rain in an hour" freak event combined with a local distribution transfer going offline thanks to the storm. Insurance paid out, but since it's a sump issue it falls under the water/sewer/sump backup. They just cut a check and didn't bother sending an adjuster. Previous owners finished the basement roughly 15 years ago and this was the only sign of flooding/water damage (aside from a small window leak) I've seen. The cost of an autostart generator installed has gotta be, what, $10k or so? It's already on the "substantially improved cashflow once kids hit public school instead of daycare" wish list, but that's several years out! e: let's assume that things are done correctly with an autostart generator, what about a backup sump in the event the primary fails? brugroffil fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Nov 4, 2019 |
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Nov 4, 2019 18:29
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brugroffil posted:Completely unknown runtime is a good point. This is the first outage of more than a couple of minutes that I can remember in the 4 years we've lived here. This was also an "8 inches of rain in an hour" freak event combined with a local distribution transfer going offline thanks to the storm. Insurance paid out, but since it's a sump issue it falls under the water/sewer/sump backup. They just cut a check and didn't bother sending an adjuster. Previous owners finished the basement roughly 15 years ago and this was the only sign of flooding/water damage (aside from a small window leak) I've seen. How much do you need your basement finished? If it's storage/laundry/mechanical I would consider taking your insurance check and seeing if you can get some remediation done. Later as you get the money together you could re-finish your basement.
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Nov 4, 2019 18:59
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Quick question, not sure if this is the exact right thread: When you have a line with a gas like propane that's going to a burner or something similar, it usually needs a valve in it somewhere to prevent the flame from propagating backwards into the tank, right? What's the name for that?
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Nov 4, 2019 19:24
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Generally that sort of device is known as a check valve. Edit: As you mentioned gas, you might be looking for the more fool-proof backflow preventer. PremiumSupport fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Nov 4, 2019 |
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Nov 4, 2019 19:36
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Gas needs oxygen to burn so in pressurized systems there's no risk of the flame going back through the pipe and blowing up your tank/city or whatever.
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Nov 4, 2019 19:41
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What SpartanIvy said. If you're talking about a hose for a propane tank, the check valve is actually to prevent the gas from escaping until the hose is attached to an appropriate device. The pressure of the gas holds the valve closed until the connection is made and the valve is physically forced open.
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Nov 4, 2019 19:51
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brugroffil posted:The cost of an autostart generator installed has gotta be, what, $10k or so? It's already on the "substantially improved cashflow once kids hit public school instead of daycare" wish list, but that's several years out! Depends on the size of the generator. Some are whole house generators (and you still need to figure out how big that needs to be for your house) and some are standby generators, where one or more circuits are moved over to a combination transfer switch and (sub)panel. Only those circuits are powered by the generator. This is a much less expensive way to do things if all you need to do is power the sump pump, whatever circuit your fridge is on, maybe some basic room lighting and the gas/oil furnace and blower and your well pump. I have two sump pits. Either should be able to keep up. If you only have one pit and it's not reasonable to install another you may be able to fit multiple pumps in your existing pit.
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Nov 4, 2019 20:12
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Motherfuck. I got a new pressure balance unit (M952100-0070A) which appeared identical to the one I ripped out, and it fit right in... but the metal bracket which sits between the pressure balance unit and the pressure balance cartridge doesn't quite fit the face of the pressure balance unit, so that plastic profile has changed very slightly over the years. That makes me think the pressure balance cartridge I've got, despite appearing to line up perfectly, might also not quite fit this unit. I ordered a new pressure balance cartridge and the correct disk from Amazon, based on "suggested purchases" with this cartridge -- I am really hoping this works, because if I have to actually replace the valve body this is going to turn into an entirely different level of suck.Z I am on hold with American Standard, trying to get someone from tech support there to give an opinion. The guys at the plumbing supply place didn't have any great ideas, and the guy at home depot wanted to sell me on ripping the wall apart and redoing everything. edit: American Standard gave me different part numbers after looking at photos I sent, and I'll have those parts from Amazon on Wednesday. Fingers crossed.... Cabbages and VHS fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Nov 4, 2019 |
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Nov 4, 2019 20:54
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DrBouvenstein posted:Well, I called the electric company and it is NOT leased, so I guess the seller just checked the wrong box on the SPIR. It's not going to help, almost certainly you have a bad lower element or thermostat.
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Nov 4, 2019 21:24
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Which is the basic Delta H2O Kinetic shower head I've seen recommended a couple times? I want to give my parents an upgrade for Christmas/give myself an upgrade when I visit for Christmas. It doesn't have to be the absolute basic model, but I don't think they are into multiple settings or the detachable wand.
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Nov 4, 2019 21:51
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On to a new problem. I'm more confused than ever on my bathroom sink. Previously, if I turned on the hot water, it would start fine, then slowly taper off the pressure. Anything below about 3/4 open would eventually trickle down to nothing. In addition, the cold line would start cold, then get hot, then back to cold. In the basement, there was this weird connection between the two lines:  I wanted to get rid of it to see if it fixed both issues.  I had to do it kind of terrible like that, because despite turning off the water supply for the whole house, AND the cold supply into the hot water tank, to prevent possible back-pressure, and the supply coming out of the tank, I had water coming out of my taps after opening them up to relieve pressure. I had all faucets open, but it would not stop trickling. Maybe at a rate of like 1/2 cup a minute or something. Not fast, but more than 0. After cutting the pipe, it was coming out onto me and the basement floor so I had to work fast to put the cap on the cold supply on the right. I was assuming it would flow out even faster if I cut "behind" that weird crimped part. Now the sink flow is terrible...this is both faucets on at full open:  (Yes, my sink and faucet are gross, bathroom remodel is next on my list, which is why I started this stupid "fix the weird hot/cold water issue" project.) So that little weird connector pipe somehow provided extra hot water pressure to the cold side and extra cold water pressure to the hot side? Or something? The stop valves under the sink are fully open, too. I guess the next step is to replace the faucet, at least temporarily since I'm getting a new vanity, and see if it's still low flow. The kitchen faucet and tub are flowing normally. Oh, and also, more of this black, carbon-looking stuff from when I replaced my kitchen faucet is flowing out of the bathroom faucet now:  (That's not my kitchen sink now, that was from a month ago when I replaced that faucet, just giving a picture to show had bad it was.) When I replaced the kitchen faucet, it only came out for the first few minutes, then stopped. Here, it keeps coming out. Every time I turn on the faucet, the first "burst" of water is greyish-black, then goes clear. I've let it flow for several minutes but still has that when first turned on. Here's what it looks like under the aerator:  But most of the crud is smaller than those holes. So it seems like it happens when I turn off/on the house water supply...or cut into a pipe? I think the latter, because there wasn't any more black stuff in the kitchen faucet, just the bathroom. Honestly, at this point regardless of the rest of it I'm getting a plumber to replace my main supply valve since it can't close all the way...and try not to think about why there's black carbon in my pipes...I'll probably replace it all with PEX. DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Nov 5, 2019 |
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Nov 5, 2019 02:41
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Gang tag contest! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3903115
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Nov 5, 2019 18:40
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If the tag doesn't feature a shark bite or a fernco tee I'll be very disappointed
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Nov 5, 2019 19:21
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Faustian Bargain posted:Well this sucks. Just test fit my garbage disposal under a new deeper sink and I hadn’t realized it would make the disposal output lower than the drain in the wall. I’m too far along to move the drain, so is my only option getting rid of the disposal?
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Nov 6, 2019 00:49
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Faustian Bargain posted:I am not sure on the physics of this still because the outlet from the disposal is either even with or slightly higher than the drain...but it's working so whatever. It's lower than the drain on the sink, so I'm guessin' your disposal is full of water up to the bottom of the drain in the wall. IDK I've never had a disposal. Maybe it has some centripetal force too.
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Nov 6, 2019 12:45
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The outlet pipe looks to be close enough to the height of the wall connection for everything to work properly. Everything below the outlet pipe on the disposal should just be motor housing and not holding water anyway.
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Nov 6, 2019 15:49
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It's still against code for the p-trap being way too short, and for the drain being too high. Only really becomes an issue once you go to sell and an inspector notes it though. It may cause some premature failure of the disposal if it's always going to have some standing water in it, but I'm just guessing at that.
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Nov 6, 2019 17:43
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https://i.imgur.com/M2yQJrR.mp4 I only did good cocaine twice, in the early '00s. I was reminded of the flash by the feeling I got seeing a functional shower again I have been, once more, spared the difficulty and adventure of taking this wall apart. (For anyone as OCD as me, the missing screw has since been replaced).
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Nov 7, 2019 02:27
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Is it just something wonky in my browser that makes imgur videos SO HUGE? Like twice the height of my screen  Tim Raines IRL posted:I only did good cocaine twice, in the early '00s. I was reminded of the flash by the feeling I got seeing a functional shower again Oh my dude I know that one. I've not tried coke, but I have experienced the return of, individually, hot water, hot water from a shower, indoor plumbing, an oven, lights... I watched The Money Pit a while ago and absolutely related to the moment where Hanks is running up and down his new stairs, shouting "I have stairs!". And the freakout Shelley Long has when they get running water back.
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Nov 7, 2019 10:51
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DrBouvenstein posted:On to a new problem. think its ghosts
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Nov 8, 2019 04:45
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30 TO 50 FERAL HOG posted:think its ghosts Well, could be ghosts that keep the shut off valve from working, but the slow trickle was just a cruddy old faucet. Swapped it out for the new one I was waiting to install until I got the vanity and was ready to redo the bathroom, and it flows fine now.
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Nov 8, 2019 17:57
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I have a tankless water heater with one of the input scale filter thingers on it: http://www.catalog.falskenwatersystems.com/Model-FtHT-20-RevFlo-G-98-GPM-FAL-FtHT-20-REVFLO-G.htm (That brand, I think that exact one.) How often does that need to get replaced? Is this a simple DIY project like I think it is? Get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Falsken-FTHT-20RF-Treater-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B018JCU6XQ , turn off water/power/gas at the unit, use the filter wrench thing I have for the unit, remove housing, replace inner filter, make sure whatever o-rings/seals at intact, and then put it all back how I found it? Should I run some water out of the service outlet before turning on the unit again or any other precautions to turning on the water/power/gas? (I don't know, never done it beyond killing the gas when the gas was leaking.
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Nov 9, 2019 01:22
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edit: nm I was silly and discovered the issue
melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Jan 11, 2024 |
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Nov 9, 2019 23:55
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Based on the limited information provided: Look for a water shutoff somewhere that's off
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Nov 10, 2019 02:53
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PainterofCrap posted:Based on the limited information provided: Look for a water shutoff somewhere that's off Had the same thought, and checked it. Shut off valve is here, and it's open. There is also this mystery valve. But it's already open. None of these valves were adjusted or messed with during the electrical work, which is why I'm feeling like there is a pump hiding somewhere. The Electrician did change some light switch re-wiring in the attic (same floor that lost water supply). Previous light switches weren't wired up properly and you had to turn the lights on at the top of the stairs, and dim them at the foot of the stairs (LOL what). Wondering if his rewire might have done something, only because those re-wired light switches are on the same floor that lost water supply. Edit: Problem solved. We shut off all valves throughout the house (for the third time), then re-opened them. No idea what the original issue was, but everything works now. Still going to take a closer look in case the previous owner did some weird Plumbing poo poo when finishing the attic living space. Not the first time we've come across weird handyman surprises in this house. melon cat fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Nov 10, 2019 |
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Nov 10, 2019 03:10
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Hello! I posted about the S-trap sink with the drain directly below the sink previously. The suggestion was a stubby p-trap, sanitary tee, AAV up top, and then 45 deg elbows to get it down to the drain pipe in the floor. I found the "SnappyTrap" on Home Depot's website. It says the use of the flexible PVC is to code, but I assume there are some stipulations. Could I use the snappy trap and put the sanitary tee on the end with the AAV and then use the flex PVC from the kit to take care of the weird angles to get to the drain pipe going into the floor? Should I just invest the extra time to do the idea with the 45 degree elbows and a normal trap? I am thinking more the latter, but the former does simplify things. The other fun thing is replacing the proper P trap in the other bathroom because the previous owner left me a towel... under the drain... to catch all the water that leaked (it's a lot). Other fun plumbing thing I've found is that the downstairs shower hot and cold are opposite the label on the valve.
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Nov 14, 2019 02:55
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Got a picture of that sink? A lot of plumbers don't like the flexible sections because they can collect crap in the folds and stink. The other sink could just be some slip nuts that need tightening. If that doesn't work, check the slip nuts and beveled washers to see if they're cracked. Both are easy and cheap fixes. If something else is leaking, let us know. Short of the bowl being cracked, slip joint pipes are very cheap to fix and well within the ability of a home owner to fix. You got us here to ask for help. Is that a single handle shower? Fixing it may be as simple as taking the cartridge out and spinning it 180 degrees. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Nov 14, 2019 |
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Nov 14, 2019 20:33
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kid sinister posted:Got a picture of that sink?  In taking this picture I noticed the water outlets are in an odd location, too. I wonder if they decided to rearrange the floor plan up here after the fact. The Motronic Disclaimer: the first floor of this home is modular and the second floor (where this bathroom is) was built on site. (Motronic said I need to make this clear when asking about repair stuff). According to SnappyTrap, their flexible PVC is smooth on the inside, so no folds. The other sink is leaking from the ring that attaches the sink drain pipe to the trap, and possibly from the cleanout on the trap. It's hard to tell on the cleanout because of the water coming down from the ring. The internet tells me that ring is the slip nut. Shower is single handle. I'll look up how to get at the cartridge on it. Related: I noticed the shower/faucet selector doesn't reset when the water shuts off. I've always had them reset. Is it possible this is working as intended or is it probably all gummed up somewhere? It's relatively easy to lift and doesn't take a lot of pressure to put back down. It works fine, it's just different than I'm used to.
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Nov 14, 2019 21:09
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It's a bit hard for me to tell from that photo (the photo is fine, just bad luck) but it looks like the brass tailpiece going in to the trap is of a somewhat smaller diameter than the trap. Typically, PVC traps come with more than one wedge spacer - the hard(er), bevelled ring that slips over the tailpiece - and it looks like the wrong (i.e. larger inside diameter) one was used there, leaving a gap that'll leak. The proper spacer should be a snug fit on the tailpiece; then, there is a rubber ring that goes on after it, then the trap is slid on & the threaded ring (which was slid on first) is screwed down hand-tight. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Nov 14, 2019 |
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Nov 14, 2019 22:30
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That one is not the leaky drain. That's the S-trap that the inspector advised reworking into a P-trap due to siphoning issues. It is, however, a slow drain, and probably has a billion hairs caught in it somewhere. E: I should rephrase. I do not believe that drain is leaking, but I haven't really filled the bowl up and checked yet. carticket fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Nov 15, 2019 |
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Nov 15, 2019 04:00
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Question for anyone that has experience servicing water heaters. I shutdown my water heater yesterday to replace a valve and some fittings that were corroding away because the previous install didn't put in dielectric fittings. I shut the heater off, and drained it down. After making the fix, I fill it back up and I go to restart the water heater and the pilot won't light. I have a piezo push button pilot lighter, can't use a match or anything. It clicks when I push down, but no flame. I called a plumber to come out and look at it today, but wondering if I just need to replace the lighter, or what could be happening. Heater worked just fine before I shut it off, so I was getting gas, and the pilot was staying lit. Hoping it's just the lighter and I'm not stuck replacing the entire control valve.
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Nov 15, 2019 14:29
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Bird in a Blender posted:Question for anyone that has experience servicing water heaters. Without knowing more detail about make, model, age, etc. my last experience with a pilot-lit water heater was that the temp control valve had to be rotated to the "light" or "pilot" position, which aligns a small cutout in the knob with a detent on the valve box; then, push the knob in & hold it, count to three, then start hitting the ignitor until the pilot lights; hold the knob in for an additional ten-count to be sure the thermocouple is thoroughly heated, then you can let the knob out & set it to the desired water temperature. If you let the knob go too early, the pilot will go out. In such case, repeat & hold it a bit longer.
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Nov 15, 2019 15:12
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PainterofCrap posted:Without knowing more detail about make, model, age, etc. my last experience with a pilot-lit water heater was that the temp control valve had to be rotated to the "light" or "pilot" position, which aligns a small cutout in the knob with a detent on the valve box; then, push the knob in & hold it, count to three, then start hitting the ignitor until the pilot lights; hold the knob in for an additional ten-count to be sure the thermocouple is thoroughly heated, then you can let the knob out & set it to the desired water temperature. I did that, hold the pilot button down, hit the lighter, I just never get any flame ever. I can smell a little bit of gas after I do it, so I'm pretty sure I'm getting gas into the water heater, I'm just not getting a spark to light it. It's a Richmond 9G40-38F1. I kind of assumed it was something not lighting the pilot because the heater was working fine before I turned it off, so as long as the pilot stayed lit, my heater would have kept on chugging along. Just can't get it relit now.
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Nov 15, 2019 15:40
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Why can't you use a match? No way to get it in there?
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Nov 15, 2019 15:49
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The first time I tried to relight one of those water heaters, I had the same problem. Turned out, I was looking through the sight glass at the wrong angle. When you hear the click sound, do you also see the spark? If not, you may be having the same issue I did. Now, if the spark is clearly visible, and nothing lights up, you may have some residual air in the gas line. Hold the button for several second at a time, before hitting the ignitor.
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Nov 15, 2019 16:02
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No way to use a match, it has a panel that completely covers it with a little window. I have not seen a spark, but I also don't hear it lighting up. Usually you can hear the little rush when it lights. I lay down on the ground and look in the window and absolutely nothing changes. I'll try one more time when I go home and try and look in a bunch of different angles to see if maybe I just wasn't seeing it. I've tried to light it like 6 separate times now. So I think I've purged any air out of the line at this point.
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Nov 15, 2019 16:06
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