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That's a drat fine looking brain that is. I pulled off Star trek bad guy's head and painted a new one from the iron hands upgrade. I think it came out decent 
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Nov 11, 2019 03:11
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painted a handsome boy, im proud of the shading on his slime   
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Nov 11, 2019 05:47
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Got half of Marvel Crisis Protocol base coated over the weekend! Still have shading and highlighting to go but pretty pleased so far! 
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Nov 11, 2019 06:47
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Cricken_Nigfops posted:That's a drat fine looking brain that is. For each of your models I keep finding myself drawn to the hands. What are you using for shade? It doesn't seem to dry in the fingers.
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Nov 11, 2019 13:04
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Professor Shark posted:For each of your models I keep finding myself drawn to the hands. What are you using for shade? It doesn't seem to dry in the fingers. I'm using Vallejo game colors thinned down with flow improver and water for the base colors, and the red is really glossy, so it prevents the reaper master black ink which I use for shading from getting into the cracks. Editing to add this intercessor sergeant: I didn't shade his power fist at all, just relied on the translucency of the red over the black base coat and I'm really happy with how he turned out: 
Cricken_Nigfops fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Nov 11, 2019 |
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Nov 11, 2019 14:26
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Is there anyone that makes a kit of forest floor type debris / odds-and-ends type things? Like sticks etc.
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Nov 11, 2019 17:13
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Sticks and twigs are most economical to source yourself, otherwise Woodland Scenics would be my first go to. Any railroad modeling or possibly craft store should stock their stuff. Birch seeds are supposed to be good for scale fallen leaves. Greenstuffworld also sells some little paper hole punches for leaves.
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Nov 11, 2019 17:58
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darnon posted:Birch seeds are supposed to be good for scale fallen leaves. They do indeed, but note that different birch trees provide different styles of leaves. A silver birch tree will provide what looks like typical fallen leaves from their seed pods, whereas a river birch will have wider, more oval shapes. As an example:  This is a white/paper birch, which are really common around my neck of the woods. They've got an interesting shape to them that would be good for more alien flora.  This is a river birch. Note how oval it is. Could make for lily pads and the like, or perhaps a flower.  And finally, the silver birch seed. This is what a lot of people are looking for, as it looks a great deal like a maple leaf, which is what most people seem to think of when it comes to fallen leaves. They're all really easy to tint with paint, too. Get some small containers, put a drop or tree of paint in there, and fill it up with your birch seed of choice. Close the lid, shake the everloving poo poo out of it, and then spread them out to dry. I did this a couple of years ago and these are the results: 
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Nov 11, 2019 20:58
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So, inspired by Midwinter Minis' Black 2.0 and 3.0 test video what they released today, I decided to spend my last day off before heading back to work at vacation's end tomorrow engaged in a Project. All four 'gaunts have been primed with Stynylrez black primer. The two on the left have been painted with Minitaire Raven Black (my preferred black paint), while the two on the right have been painted with Stuart Semple/CultureHustle's Black 3.0. Everything has been applied with an airbrush. This project was inspired by two questions the Midwinter Minis video raised for me: What happens when you use an airbrush to apply it, and what happens when you varnish it afterwards? Black 3.0 is notoriously fragile and rubs off easily, but most instructions for use say a varnish ruins the finish, and I was curious as to how much varnishing it ruins the finish. Perhaps while it ceases to be as black as it can be, it's still better than regular model paint varnished! (Answered below.)    Some closeups. It's not super visible from this angle, but the Black 3.0 is absolutely clogging detail the Raven Black leaves clear.  Here's a pic that shows the detail clogging more clearly -- look at the vents on the arms and legs of the right 'gaunt. They are not as obscured on the left 'gaunt, which suggests that this effect could be mitigated by being more experienced at diluting Black 3.0 for airbrush use -- this was my first time using it so I was sort of making it up, and it's naturally a very thick paint. Also visible in this pic is the result of rubbing the paint off the right rear leg of each 'gaunt, though I will admit I used a q-tip for that -- it doesn't rub off quite as quickly with just finger handling. But the Midwinter Minis' video has an excellent section on how quickly Black 2.0 and Black 3.0 rub off, so you can see more there.  And here they are with varnish applied. The two on the left have been varnished with AK Interactive Ultra Matte acrylic varnish, and the two on the right with Vallejo Mecha Matte acrylic varnish. The ones marked with a "3" are the Black 3.0 minis. I want to point out this is my first time using the AK Ultra Matte, and I had previously settled on Mecha Matte varnish as the best, least-prone-to-dusting-up acrylic matte varnish I could find after literally two years of looking for the best possible matte varnish to apply to Raven Guard space marines. I previously found that Mecha Matte beat out rattlecan Testors Dullcote. This could mean a couple of things, but one of those things is that I might not have a good handle yet on how best to thin out the AK Ultra Matte.  A closeup of the one that came out the worst, the Black 3.0/Vallejo Mecha Matte 'gaunt. You can see how it's clouded up hugely, forming a sort of fuzzy, almost velvety surface. I have a theory about what's going on here. Given how fragile Black 3.0 is and how it rubs off into a fine charcoal-y powder, I think it doesn't so much bond with the surface it's applied to as rest atop it, almost like carbon flocking. The mecha matte varnish rests atop that, and you get this. Note also the way it didn't dust nearly as badly along the rear left leg where I rubbed the Black 3.0 off.  The two Black 3.0 models with the different varnishes, side-by-side, for ease of contrasting the effects of the different varnishes.  The two Raven Black painted minis, again for ease of contrasting the different varnishes.  The two AK Ultra Matte finishes, side-by-side, for ease of contrasting the different underlying paint jobs.  The two Vallejo Mecha Matte finishes, side-by-side, again for ease of contrasting the different paint jobs.  This is the Black 3.0/AK Ultra Matte after I've rubbed the tail a bit with my finger. Even with the AK Ultra Matte, the Black 3.0 comes off really easily. By comparison, the dusty surface of the Black 3.0/Mecha Matte varnish is tough, and I haven't even taken a picture of my attempt to rub the stuff off because you can't see it.  Finally, for comparison, the above are the photo from earlier in this post of unvarnished Black 3.0 side-by-side for a direct comparison with a photo of the Mecha Matte varnished Raven Black: Conclusion: 1) Black 3.0 is basically unsuitable for use on minis that are going to see handling; you can get almost as good a result by using any black paint -- even a satin-y one -- and a good varnish. Furthermore, the way it obscures detail means it may be unsuitable for minis in general, although someone who's better at painting than me and more experienced at thinning it down might find things to do with it. It certainly is not a shortcut for ultramatte ultradark surfaces even on minis intended just for display. 2) For all that a lot of people call AK Interactive Ultra Matte varnish the best acrylic matte varnish on the market right now, I'm liking Vallejo Mecha Matte more both for toughness and matting power. It does dust up just a bit more, though. Caveats: 1) All these photos are taken under a fairly harsh "full-spectrum" artist's lamp. Further away from a light source, unvarnished Black 3.0 does look a bit darker than this. (It does not become more durable, however.) 2) I am much more experienced using Vallejo Mecha Matte than AK Interactive Ultra Matte. It's possible Ultra Matte really does perform better with a more optimal ratio of varnish to airbrush thinner, or when using AK Interactive's own acrylic thinner and not Vallejo's as I have here. Continuation: If I were going to take this further (but I probably won't), I'd want to do a third pair of 'gaunts sprayed with Scalecolor Flat Black, which I know to be much more matte than Raven Black and much less fragile than Black 3.0. If it were to turn out to be as flat a black as Black 3.0, that would be pretty funny. Or, uh, not, since it turns out that maybe Scale75 is a bunch of wehraboos.
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Nov 12, 2019 02:52
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Stephenls posted:Or, uh, not, since it turns out that maybe Scale75 is a bunch of wehraboos. Yeah, I had been debating on whether or not to finally pick up some Scale 75 stuff, but then I saw the controversy behind their latest Kickstarter (which IIRC included giving out actual swastikas or something like that as some sort of prize/stretch goals) and just went "  ...nooooope, hard pass".Now I'm just hoping Vallejo and/or Army Painter don't reveal themselves to have been secret fans of the fash any time soon 
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Nov 12, 2019 03:48
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Stephenls posted:Black 2.0 and varnishing I don't have anything to add regarding your black testing, but I can anecdotally confirm that Mecha Matte is way flatter and tougher than AK Ultra Matte. I picked up a bottle of the AK stuff myself for scale modelling, and I walked away about as underwhelmed as I was with Dullcote. Unrelated to any of the above, I painted some Skaven. I need some criticism. These need something, but I don't have the wherewithal to figure out what to push on.  
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Nov 12, 2019 04:07
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some works in progress  
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Nov 12, 2019 04:19
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grassy gnoll posted:
i like your floors
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Nov 12, 2019 04:21
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Yeah, I had been debating on whether or not to finally pick up some Scale 75 stuff, but then I saw the controversy behind their latest Kickstarter (which IIRC included giving out actual swastikas or something like that as some sort of prize/stretch goals) and just went " Vallejo has box sets for Luftwaffe and German armor... But fortunately do similar sets for the US, UK, USSR, and Japan that have just as much theme variety as the German ones (Actually probably more so even only counting their WW2 sets), so I'm hoping they're good. Though they're Spanish, so hopefully they're not closet Francos
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Nov 12, 2019 04:26
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If you're looking for an alternative to Scale 75 I have heard that the Pro Acryl line by Creature Caster are extremely good and a similar level of matte. They don't offer as many colors though, mostly just the basics.
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Nov 12, 2019 04:38
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Yeah, I had been debating on whether or not to finally pick up some Scale 75 stuff, but then I saw the controversy behind their latest Kickstarter (which IIRC included giving out actual swastikas or something like that as some sort of prize/stretch goals) and just went " I've already bought completely into Scalecolor. Full range of Scalecolor original, Scalecolor Fantasy & Game, Warfront, all the metallics, both sets of inks, the fluorescents. Bunch of their books. The only line I don't have is the tube paints they did. And the ones I do have are such great paints -- for a while I couldn't imagine using any other metallics. But, like... yeesh. That KS was gross, and writing an apology just requires a half-functional theory of mind, not sincerity, so that they took it down and apologized doesn't mean much on its own. I would very much like to believe that they're not actual ideological Nazis, just moderately concussed wehraboos who've bought into the revisionist mystique surrounding Nazi military history. Lots of military history fans have been about how "cool" the SS (supposedly) were as villains (spoiler: that's unexamined propaganda and the Nazis sucked) without being pro-death camp... but that's also a culture of "military history fandom" that gives actual ideological Nazis plausible deniability, which means it needs to be burned the gently caress down.  Speaking of, here's Scalecolor Flat Black over Stynylrez Black (unvarnished, the lettering is for later when I apply the varnish). Bit more matte than Raven Black, not nearly as matte as Black 3.0. Slightly more fragile than Raven Black, not nearly as fragile as Black 3.0. Honestly most of this doesn't matter to me, my black process uses so many overlapping layers of satin, gloss, matte, and all-over Army Painter acrylic washes and now AK Interactive enamel washes that the initial finish is just short of irrelevant. Stephenls fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Nov 12, 2019 |
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Nov 12, 2019 05:12
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xpost from 40k thread Just finished a Chaos Lord with Jump Pack and Thunder Hammer    
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Nov 12, 2019 05:34
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 Interesting. I applied the varnishes slightly differently this time -- not diluting the AK Interactive Ultra Matte at all, as it's pretty thin already, and diluting the Mecha Matte down to 1:1 with thinner in an effort to make it match the Ultra Matte's consistency -- and Ultra Matte over Scalecolor Flat Black comes off as significantly darker and matter, and legitimately matte on the same level as unvarnished Black 3.0 while coating more smoothly and being tougher. Initial fragility tests aren't in its favor, but that's probably because it's only been on the figure for ten minutes or so; I'll need to let it dry for a couple of hours and see if either of them toughen up. (That said, I suspect I overapplied the Mecha Matte here.) Discovering that Scalecolor Flat Black varnished with AK Ultra Matte is exactly as dark and as matte as Black 3.0 would have made me a lot happier six days ago.
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Nov 12, 2019 05:45
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Two Beans posted:xpost from 40k thread Woah I love this thing. That Mark IV helmet is awesome, where is it from?
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Nov 12, 2019 05:53
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Werix posted:Woah I love this thing. That Mark IV helmet is awesome, where is it from? Forgeworld Moritat. (Also available with plasma pistols.)
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Nov 12, 2019 05:57
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StephenIs, you should send these posts over to MidwinterMinis. Guy is really cool and interacts loads with his community
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Nov 12, 2019 08:53
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Crossposting from the 40k thread:JackMann posted:My ork airforce is coming along nicely.
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Nov 12, 2019 08:55
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grassy gnoll posted:Unrelated to any of the above, I painted some Skaven. I need some criticism. These need something, but I don't have the wherewithal to figure out what to push on. Also, your bases are looking good, but they're pretty much the same colors as the minis, so they could be blending in too much.
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Nov 12, 2019 09:58
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Orktober is sadly long over, but here's two orky dudes. Also my second attempt at checkerboard, I'm pretty pleased with it. 
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Nov 12, 2019 12:29
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Chunkystyle posted:Orktober is sadly long over, but here's two orky dudes. These are rad and inspiring.
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Nov 12, 2019 13:11
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Chunkystyle posted:Orktober is sadly long over, but here's two orky dudes. That skin is great.
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Nov 13, 2019 02:40
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Hi fellow miniatures goons, just a heads-up that TG Secret Santa thread is up. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3903744
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Nov 13, 2019 04:38
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So I've decided that instead of pre-ordering the Sisters of Battle boxset, I thought about making an order on Miniature Market for some more paints, and possibly models. I thought I'd run a list of the paints I thought about buying by the thread. I've grouped with the project/minis I needed them for, and some notes about the choices. Pretty much all my listed paints are Citadel paints, and I was looking to get some alternatives that are cheaper or better quality Grey Knights Grey Knights Steel; Leadbelcher; Ironbreaker; Gehenna Gold; Runefang Steel; Screaming Skull; Dawnstone; Balthasar Gold; Teclis Blue; Lothern Blue; black wash; Auric Armor/Liberator Gold; Celestra Grey. + Most of these are metallic paints, and its because the metallic paints I have used up to this point are Vallejo Game Color (Gunmetal and Silver), and I feel like they haven't worked that well. I don't know if anyone else has experience with those, but I feel like couldn't thin them properly. + I've wanted to try the Grey Knights Steel for a while. I asked about while at the GW store on Saturday, and the manager said that a black wash would work well with it for a shade. + The blues I got from a video tutorial, to do the eyes. A couple of videos pointed to Celestra Grey for the base coat for doing white details. I think I have Ulthuan Grey, but I don't know if that would work the same. + Because of an mistake I made during a previous order, I actually have two droppers of VGC White. White is one of those colors that seems like a pain to work with, and GW has like 3 that seem to be the same (Corax White, Ceramite White, White Scar) Sons of Horus Lupercal Green; Sons of Horus Green; Rhinox Hide; Doombull Brown + Like with the Grey Knights Steel, I'm interested in trying the green colors to do Sons of Horus without having to mix up paints. I remember someone telling me the greens work best over a grey undercoat. Rhinox Hide and Doombull Brown I picked out because they tend more red then the browns I have (VGC Beastly Brown and Parasite Brown). Imperial Fists Wraithbone; Yriel Yellow; Flash Gitz Yellow; Dorn Yellow; Tyrant Skull; Cassandora Yellow + I probably wouldn't do Cassandora Yellow, but rather the Army Painter Yellow Wash. + I remember hearing that Flash Gitz Yellow was a bad quality paint. + Wraithbone I put on here because I picked up Iyanen Yellow along with Blood Angels Red a few months back, and I haven't used it yet. I thought to just buy a jar or it instead of a rattlecan, since GW rattlecans are super expensive. However, maybe the spraycan would be a better choice. + Tyrant Skull was recommended in one tutorial as a drybrush, but I remember another tutorial that recommended using bone/tan paints as an undercoat for yellow. Da Red Gobbo / Adeptus Mechanicus Warboss Green, Biel-Tan Green, Skarsnik Green, Moot Green, Dark Reaper, Thunderhawk Blue, Blue Horror + I have Waagh Flesh, but I don't have the other green colors for ork skin. I have the Army Painter Green shade, but I don't know if that's comparable to Biel-Tan Green. The other paints like Dark Reaper and Thunderhawk I put down because those are just the recommended paints for the black layering and highlighting. + The reason I put Adeptus Mechanicus here is because I decided to do the Skitarii I have in a Salamanders green color (as I think the Salamaders green uses the same colors). I already painted the robes on some of them in Waagh Green (over a black primer). - I know this is probably a messy, confusing post, but I just wanted to get some feedback. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Nov 13, 2019 |
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Nov 13, 2019 06:31
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Good lord, I was just looking into scale 75 metallics. The only reason I didn't buy some yesterday is because I had confused them with ak interactive. Hard pass now. Anyone have a recommendation for brass and gold? I love the model air bright brass but it covers like water.
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Nov 13, 2019 15:12
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3rd party casting question: Are there any other recast stores as good as War-tablegames?
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Nov 13, 2019 21:54
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Eifert Posting posted:Good lord, I was just looking into scale 75 metallics. The only reason I didn't buy some yesterday is because I had confused them with ak interactive. Hard pass now. I love the vallejo liquid gold, but it's a bit of work to get it going. It has actual metal in it, so you need to thin it with isopropyl alcohol or something similar. There are good guides on the internet. Here's one, for example: http://apaintingchaos.blogspot.com/2012/12/the-vallejo-liquid-gold-paints.html
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Nov 13, 2019 22:02
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I have a pretty good size citadel paint collection that hasn't been touched in months. Is there anything I need to know about maintaining these paints so they don't get ruined from not being used? It would really suck if they did, because this is a pretty expensive collection.
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Nov 14, 2019 00:38
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Stephenls posted:Madness Are you OK? Like, testing out paints is interesting but...
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Nov 14, 2019 00:42
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Im curious, do you guys prefer to base before or after gluing the model to the base?
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Nov 14, 2019 02:52
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Wizard posted:Im curious, do you guys prefer to base before or after gluing the model to the base? I sculpt the base before, then sink a magnet in it. I'll throw a magnet in the foot of the model so I can just swap bases whenever I want.
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Nov 14, 2019 03:10
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I said come in! posted:I have a pretty good size citadel paint collection that hasn't been touched in months. Is there anything I need to know about maintaining these paints so they don't get ruined from not being used? It would really suck if they did, because this is a pretty expensive collection. maybe go through and give each one a good shake
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Nov 14, 2019 04:00
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I said come in! posted:I have a pretty good size citadel paint collection that hasn't been touched in months. Is there anything I need to know about maintaining these paints so they don't get ruined from not being used? It would really suck if they did, because this is a pretty expensive collection. I’ve been told that storing the bottles top down helps prevent them drying out. No idea if there’s any truth to it though.
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Nov 14, 2019 08:01
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Bucnasti posted:I’ve been told that storing the bottles top down helps prevent them drying out. No idea if there’s any truth to it though. Unless the threading between the bottle and cap is bad this is totally horseshit.
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Nov 14, 2019 08:52
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I said come in! posted:I have a pretty good size citadel paint collection that hasn't been touched in months. Is there anything I need to know about maintaining these paints so they don't get ruined from not being used? It would really suck if they did, because this is a pretty expensive collection. About once a year I go through every pot and check them, and use sure droppers to add either distilled water or acrylic medium. I paint on canvas too so I have matte medium in liquid and gel. Usually I start with a couple drops water, and add medium to try keeping it roughly a decent consistency, though it's definitely a bit of trial and error until you get a feel for it. Make sure to clean off the lids of really dried on crud so it's a good seal (next time I'm going to see if brushing on a thin layer medium on the lid prior to sealing makes a difference). I've kept some paint pots alive for... Well, ten to fifteen years now, with about one out of 40 being dried solid per year. Edit: I've never noticed any difference between storing them upside down, right side up, or in a sealed ziplock - tried everything, the only thing that made a difference is cleaning out the lids as well as possible before long term storage. VolatileSky fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Nov 14, 2019 |
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Nov 14, 2019 10:36
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| # ? May 10, 2024 09:53 |
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I have some bottles that are 20years old, it depends onwhat cap they have and how messed up the seal is. After my last hiatus of a decade, most of my 20 year old hex bottles were good, none of the black cap flip top paints survived, though the inks and washes were ok, all of the 10 year old modern style white top foundation paints were ok. Just shake 'em up if they aren't a colourful puck, add in a bit of medium and water to ressurect them.
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Nov 14, 2019 13:37
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