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Jerry Cotton posted:Duct tape is flexible though. That's the point: it'll show displacement in 3-dimensions by wrinkling. Then the rate can be evaluated. Motronic posted:Yes, this. I always leave a section that isn't facing some way you'd look at it open for about 6". Whether that's the back or a side. Maybe I'm weird, but I've never caulked around the toilet. No bus-station bathroom odors, either.
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Nov 12, 2019 01:23
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Gah dp (edit) have some chimney removal!  ...with bonus hole into the dining room (there used to be a coal stove there, in the 1930s) 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Nov 12, 2019 |
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Nov 12, 2019 01:25
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PainterofCrap posted:Maybe I'm weird, but I've never caulked around the toilet. No bus-station bathroom odors, either. It's all in what you're looking for. This is not an odor thing or you'd already have a leak. It's a finished look against the flooring and it helps with cleaning.....otherwise you have dirty mop water or whatever else under the toilet over the years.
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Nov 12, 2019 01:31
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Motronic posted:It's all in what you're looking for. This is not an odor thing or you'd already have a leak. It's a finished look against the flooring and it helps with cleaning.....otherwise you have dirty mop water or whatever else under the toilet over the years. I was referring more to random floor piss getting under the pedestal & festering. In my manse, I'd know immediately if I had a closet flange leak because my wife would provide an ample verbal expression since her office is in the unfinished basement, under the bathroom, Milton-style.
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Nov 12, 2019 01:39
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Excuse me, I believe you have her stapler.
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Nov 12, 2019 02:00
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Weeeellllllll nowwwwwwww...you won't be neeeeeeeeeeeeeeeding that...
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Nov 12, 2019 03:36
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PoopShipDestroyer posted:The problem I'm having is that our laundry closet is only 30 inches deep and from what I can tell it doesn't really look like any dryer that fits into that space will be that much of an improvement over what I already have. My mother did almost the same thing to my brother and his wife when they bought their first house, only they only measured the width of the closet and not the depth. Now they have a laundry alcove instead and a pair of bifold doors taking up space in storage. I guessing you won't win the 'just the washer' argument either, it's going to be a matched pair or they won't be satisfied.
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Nov 12, 2019 03:37
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A 20 year old dryer and people wanting to gift you a new one...just take the new one and save your energy on another battle that's more important.
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Nov 12, 2019 04:05
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Okay, one more question on the dryer front and this is a little more on topic. Even if I wanted to replace the dryer, I noticed that instead of having a 3 or 4 pronged plug, there is just a metallic electrical cable going straight into the machine from the basement. Is this a problem? It seems like pretty much everyone online has either a 3 or 4 prong connection, I can barely find any mention of people with my setup. How hard / costly would it be to change this wire to redirect to a 4 prong plug? I've done some electrical work around the house but nothing more than replacing standard outlets and installing lighting fixtures.
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Nov 12, 2019 17:45
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PoopShipDestroyer posted:Okay, one more question on the dryer front and this is a little more on topic. Caveat that my experience is in the UK, but this is something you should be able to do yourself in 5 minutes with a wall-mount socket from Home Depot. Essentially it's the equivalent of wiring on a plug. That's assuming that the cable is rated for the current etc.
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Nov 12, 2019 18:14
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Jaded Burnout posted:Caveat that my experience is in the UK, but this is something you should be able to do yourself in 5 minutes with a wall-mount socket from Home Depot. Essentially it's the equivalent of wiring on a plug. Or save the money and time and just wire it to the dryer  I guess if you just have to have a plug and then buy 3/4 prong cord to wire to the dryer and then plug in to the new outlet you just wired.
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Nov 12, 2019 18:27
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JEEVES420 posted:Or save the money and time and just wire it to the dryer Yeah depends what's easiest for the dryer I suppose. I assumed that one would come with a plug, thus it would be easier to put a socket on the now-dangling cable, but I'll bow to your experience.
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Nov 12, 2019 18:33
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I believe dryers actually do not come with plugs already on them, you have to buy and wire the plug yourself (or the installers do it). I guess I just wanted to make sure directly wiring the dryer like that is safe and it sounds like it is. I was a little worried that those 4 prong outlets double as GFCI outlets, or something, and that by directly bypassing the outlet I was opening myself up to some sort of danger.
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Nov 12, 2019 18:37
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PoopShipDestroyer posted:I believe dryers actually do not come with plugs already on them, you have to buy and wire the plug yourself (or the installers do it). https://fredsappliance.com/service/3-prong-vs-4-prong-dryer-outlets-whats-the-difference/ They are usually just 3 (hot, ground, neutral) fork terminal screws on the dryer. As someone who moved a lot with a dryer I had a 4 and 3 prong cord but would always lose the one I needed and have to buy another. I hate those drat cords 
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Nov 12, 2019 18:45
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That's useful local info, thanks  Round here they (mostly?) all come with plugs on them.
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Nov 12, 2019 18:47
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Okay, let's say I want to install an outlet for the dryer using the existing connection that is going into the dryer. The existing cable is one of those metal BX cables so I go out and buy a metal box and a 3 or 4 prong outlet (depending on what the wires inside the cable look like), cut a hole for the box, mount it, feed the cable into the box, connect it to the outlet and that's it? Am I missing anything major (aside from turning the power off)?
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Nov 12, 2019 20:58
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Turn the power off. Disconnect the existing cable from the back of your old dryer. Connect that cable to your new dryer. Have a beer and dry some clothes. If you really want to install an outlet, the above are the correct steps--don't forget the wire clamp for the box. Also, look for a dryer outlet that is a complete unit if not mounting in a stud bay. (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-Black-30-Amp-Round-Industrial-Dryer/4064010) But I'd re-use your existing wiring to hook right into the new dryer and be done. HycoCam fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Nov 12, 2019 |
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Nov 12, 2019 21:03
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The argument for installing an outlet is that it makes it easier if you need to pull out the dryer for whatever reason. Now that I think about it, I've done that once in 6 years to install cabinets and paint.
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Nov 12, 2019 21:12
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Doesn't an appliance like a dryer need to be cord and plug connected unless it's near the panel or other disconnecting means?
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Nov 13, 2019 00:03
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angryrobots posted:Doesn't an appliance like a dryer need to be cord and plug connected unless it's near the panel or other disconnecting means? No different than an electric stove IMO...but I am not an electrician.
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Nov 13, 2019 00:11
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Agreed, I don't know about it from a code perspective but from a practical perspective I can't think of any dryer setup I've seen where it isn't easier (and safer) to run all the way into the basement and flip the breaker than it would be to pull the dryer out from the wall and try to unplug it that way.
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Nov 13, 2019 02:18
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Renovating my basement, and I've run into a little issue. It has metal beams, which I've been cladding in plywood to form a bulkhead. However, one of the beams is directly over a wall. This means I can only put plywood on one side of the beam. This is fine for the side, but I realized it presents a problem for the bottom of the beam (the other beams have plywood on both sides, so the bottom has wood on both sides of the bottom to give the drywall something to screw into.) So it turns out I didn’t really need any glue. It’s thin enough that a row of drywall screws just sucks it up tight with no issue. 
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Nov 13, 2019 02:41
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I'm an idiot who regularly drops stuff around the dryer, so not having to unwire it to find socks and stuff is pretty good. I grant that if you have a modicum of coordination and don't do your laundry like a cookie monster impression, this might not be a thing. 
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Nov 13, 2019 05:09
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angryrobots posted:Hey this guy in the general questions thread has a hardwired electric dryer, with the circuit coming up through the floor from the basement. Motronic posted:400.7 (A) and (B) (I forget the citation for disconnects right now)
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Nov 13, 2019 05:17
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To be fair.....we're not talking code here. We're talking about the intention of the code, which was perverted by a committee. I have to imagine hard to come up with a scenario where this particular situation matters.
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Nov 13, 2019 05:23
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Cross from electrician thread: In the 2017 NEC, section 422 is "Appliances". 422.30(A) requires "switch or circuit breaker within sight" or lockout means. 422.33 covers using a cord and plug as disconnecting means. No-one in America hard-wires their residential dryers as a cord/receptacle is cheaper, most common, and generally easier to hook up.
Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Nov 13, 2019 |
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Nov 13, 2019 05:53
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PoopShipDestroyer posted:Okay, one more question on the dryer front and this is a little more on topic. Honestly, if it's your house and you are doing the wiring, you could rewire a new dryer (assuming it's manufacturer approved for hard-wiring) the way things are. You could put a breaker lockout in your panel supplying the circuit to make it NEC compliant, but if you're the one working on things it's your choice. I think adding a receptacle would add to the value of your home, and would be worth doing if you get a new dryer. 4-wire if you have 4 wires, if not, the old 3-wire hookup is NEC compliant. Your may have a problem with a receptacle needing room down low and forcing you to pull your dryer out further from the wall. In this case you would have to use a shallow 4" junction box and conduit to feed a receptacle above the dryer, or find a way to replace the wire run to make things work with a higher surface-mount or in-wall flush-mount receptacle. If there's 3" or so between the wall and dryer and the wire comes up through the floor next to the back wall, you may be able to mount a surface-mount dryer receptacle to the floor; this would be easy and cheapest.
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Nov 13, 2019 06:30
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Hello. I was recently moving furniture back into a room with wooden floors after finishing some painting, and, as you do, was giving the wooden furniture a clean with some Pledge furniture polish. And I thought, huh, I scuffed up these floorboards a bit, I'll polish them too. So I Pledge'd the floorboards around where I was sitting. Thank god I stopped there, because this treatment has turned that corner of my lounge into an ice rink. The floorboards are now incredibly slippery; a literal deathtrap for anyone wearing socks. Help me SA, what should I do?
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Nov 13, 2019 08:16
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Yoruichi posted:Hello. I was recently moving furniture back into a room with wooden floors after finishing some painting, and, as you do, was giving the wooden furniture a clean with some Pledge furniture polish. And I thought, huh, I scuffed up these floorboards a bit, I'll polish them too. So I Pledge'd the floorboards around where I was sitting. Thank god I stopped there, because this treatment has turned that corner of my lounge into an ice rink. The floorboards are now incredibly slippery; a literal deathtrap for anyone wearing socks. Help me SA, what should I do?
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Nov 13, 2019 13:50
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Yoruichi posted:Hello. I was recently moving furniture back into a room with wooden floors after finishing some painting, and, as you do, was giving the wooden furniture a clean with some Pledge furniture polish. And I thought, huh, I scuffed up these floorboards a bit, I'll polish them too. So I Pledge'd the floorboards around where I was sitting. Thank god I stopped there, because this treatment has turned that corner of my lounge into an ice rink. The floorboards are now incredibly slippery; a literal deathtrap for anyone wearing socks. Help me SA, what should I do?
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Nov 13, 2019 14:42
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Yoruichi posted:Hello. I was recently moving furniture back into a room with wooden floors after finishing some painting, and, as you do, was giving the wooden furniture a clean with some Pledge furniture polish. And I thought, huh, I scuffed up these floorboards a bit, I'll polish them too. So I Pledge'd the floorboards around where I was sitting. Thank god I stopped there, because this treatment has turned that corner of my lounge into an ice rink. The floorboards are now incredibly slippery; a literal deathtrap for anyone wearing socks. Help me SA, what should I do? Use orange oil / beeswax next time if it's wood. Throw the pledge away.
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Nov 13, 2019 16:09
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We rent, and a damp rug on a floor unfortunately resulted in some damage. If we wanted to fix this as cheaply as possible, what should we do?  
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Nov 13, 2019 20:25
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me your dad posted:We rent, and a damp rug on a floor unfortunately resulted in some damage. If we wanted to fix this as cheaply as possible, what should we do? Do you want to fix it? Or do you want to "fix" it?
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Nov 13, 2019 20:30
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Jaded Burnout posted:Do you want to fix it? Or do you want to "fix" it? I want something passable for when the owner moves back in. Fine at first glance kind of repair. Basically trying to get our deposit back kind of repair.
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Nov 13, 2019 20:43
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me your dad posted:I want something passable for when the owner moves back in. Fine at first glance kind of repair. Basically trying to get our deposit back kind of repair. Give it a quick rub with a walnut and see how far that gets you. Otherwise hopefully someone can provide guidance on tidying up the finish that's worn off.
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Nov 13, 2019 20:47
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me your dad posted:I want something passable for when the owner moves back in. Fine at first glance kind of repair. Basically trying to get our deposit back kind of repair. They make pens that color wood to look like it's stained. They're like $8. Something like: https://smile.amazon.com/Minwax-63487000-Finish-Marker-Walnut/dp/B0000DI7ZK/
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Nov 13, 2019 20:48
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These couple of comments are a relief so far. I was expecting to get told that I am hosed. I bought some wood filler at Home Depot earlier today, figuring it might come in handy. Should I use that on the more-damaged areas prior to going over it with a pen or stain?
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Nov 13, 2019 20:49
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me your dad posted:These couple of comments are a relief so far. I was expecting to get told that I am hosed. No, wood filler will never match the wood. Just get the pens for small areas and the same color in a small can of stain for the larger areas (apply several coats if need be).
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Nov 13, 2019 20:54
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me your dad posted:These couple of comments are a relief so far. I was expecting to get told that I am hosed. I would say no. It doesn't look like the wood itself is especially injured, so much as the stain and/or varnish has come off, and the board has lifted a bit. In your shoes I would be looking for ways to make it look uniform and maybe reseated a bit, but equally I once had a flat where I accidentally stained a big yellow streak across the wood flooring (from tape, not piss) which I couldn't remove, and nobody noticed when I moved out.
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Nov 13, 2019 20:55
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me your dad posted:These couple of comments are a relief so far. I was expecting to get told that I am hosed. Wood filler is going to look like something bad happened and you tried to fix it and draw attention to the area. Color it in with a touch up pen or honestly magic marker (a hair too dark is always better than too light) and stand back and squint at it. You’re not trying to make it look new because those floors are definitely old, you just don’t want it to stand out. Brown Old English furniture touch up polish/scratch remover may help if a touch up pen doesn’t work. E: the yellowed/whitish areas are areas where the finish has wrinkled. If the touch up pen doesn’t seem to be doing much, you might scrape the loose wrinkled finish off lightly with a razor blade and using the touch up pen on the bare wood. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Nov 13, 2019 |
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Nov 13, 2019 20:55
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