|
I'd like to recommend an android app called "paint rack" it has a comparison between all the major brands and what's analogous to what. I found it impossibly useful, particularly figuring out what colors I could use from my vallejo set for painting crimson fists close to the citadel approved colors. Definitely check that sucker out, it'll help.
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2019 06:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 22:01 |
|
|
Cricken_Nigfops posted:I'd like to recommend an android app called "paint rack" it has a comparison between all the major brands and what's analogous to what. I found it impossibly useful, particularly figuring out what colors I could use from my vallejo set for painting crimson fists close to the citadel approved colors. Oh yeah, I think I have that app. I haven't used it a whole lot. I remember someone saying it was worth buying the full version.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2019 06:46
|
|
|
paint rack is 100% worth buying because if it keeps you from buying a single duplicate bottle it's more than paid for itself
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2019 06:48
|
|
|
the price is like $3 just buy it. don't act like you all haven't wasted 100 times that amount on something in this hobby
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2019 06:50
|
|
|
Agreed, well worth the price of admission.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2019 06:58
|
|
|
I painted the Chosen Axes. I'm sick of them, and don't want to use any more time on them, but I might come back to them and paint the OSL in a few years. I tried using Mordant Earth for the skin, and it kind of worked, but it's pretty hard to control where it goes.    
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2019 13:57
|
|
|
Max Wilco posted:Is there a specific color or colors you'd recommend? In my big long post, I was looking to find cheapr equivalents to the GW stuff, and with the multiple paints you need to base painting, layering, highlighting, I don't know what you'd pick that's the same as Leadbelcher/Runefang/etc. VMA Gunmetal, VMA Silver are my go-to paints. I use the airbrush paints even when brushing. They're pre-thinned.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2019 18:30
|
|
|
Yeah, I gotta definitely second looking for Vallejo airbrush paints. It's the same quality paint from Vallejo, still in a dropper bottle, and having them pre-thinned helps to not gently caress up and over-/under-thin and ruin whatever you were working on. As for metals, I really love using the VMA Chrome as incredibly bright metal highlights. Also seconding VMA Gunmetal as a Leadbelcher replacement. Now, looking back, I know you have the Game Color versions of these, and have had issues thinning them. In this particular case, I'd do a little experiment, and see how thin you need to go before you get too thin. Basically, just take a scrap piece of cardboard/plasticard/whatever not-paper you have lying around, and draw a decent-sized doodle on it (like a squiggly line, or a spiral, or whatever) in marker. Then take a drop of the paint you want to try out, don't thin it at all, paint a line over the doodle and let it dry. Then, take a drop of water, mix it in, and paint another line, right next to the first line of paint. Add another drop of water, mix it in, paint another line, etc. Keep going until you're more or less painting with sparkly water. This way, you have a visible idea of how much water you'd need to get the coverage you want without having the paint be too loose and just running everywhere on the model. Personally, using a dry palette I've found it's a little bit easier to over-thin metallics by a little, as they usually tend to be a little thicker than normal paints due to the metallic pigment, and it'll slowly dry to the consistency I want on the palette as I'm working it anyway.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2019 20:09
|
|
|
Those dwarves are loving rad as hell and yeah OSL would be like going to super saiyan blue
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2019 21:26
|
|
|
Beer4TheBeerGod posted:VMA Gunmetal, VMA Silver are my go-to paints. I use the airbrush paints even when brushing. They're pre-thinned. Aniodia posted:Yeah, I gotta definitely second looking for Vallejo airbrush paints. It's the same quality paint from Vallejo, still in a dropper bottle, and having them pre-thinned helps to not gently caress up and over-/under-thin and ruin whatever you were working on. As for metals, I really love using the VMA Chrome as incredibly bright metal highlights. Also seconding VMA Gunmetal as a Leadbelcher replacement. Now, looking back, I know you have the Game Color versions of these, and have had issues thinning them. Yeah, that was the problem; even with minimal water-thinning, I couldn't nail a balance between, "paint still seems too thick" and "glittery water". I'll probably just pick up the VMA metallics (because I'm lazy), but that's a good method to keep in mind, and I'm sure I'll use in the future to make use of the rest of the VGC, or to test something else. I have been using a wet palette, so that might be why I've had issues. I did find that I had to let it dry a little to get it to apply better, but it still didn't seem right. I dunno; I want to branch out and try different brands to save money and try different stuff, but there's so many different manufacturers, with so many varying degrees of quality and application that it becomes daunting. Citadel and Vallejo Game Color have been the main two that I've been using, along with some Army Painter washes. I've thought about trying P3, since it sounds like it's pretty good. With Vallejo Model Color, it sounds like the only difference is that the colors are more 'grounded' compared to VGC, which are more gear to sci-fi/fantasy stuff. EDIT: One that I've wanted to try (though not at this time) is the TurboDork paints, because their color-shift/metallic paints look really cool. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Nov 16, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2019 23:25
|
|
|
Max Wilco posted:I have been using a wet palette, so that might be why I've had issues. I did find that I had to let it dry a little to get it to apply better, but it still didn't seem right. I'm not any kind of expert, but everything I've seen/been told suggests that metallics dont like wet palettes and vice versa. As for paint variety, my paints are a mix of all sorts of different brands. GW (mainly their contrasts and washes), Army Painter, Coat D'arms, Vallejo, and one brand that appears to just be called "Miniature Paints". Dont be daunted, just do what I do and when you need a specific colour just buy whatever brand you first see which has the colour you are looking for, or a close facsimile of it. Dont be too hung up on an exact colour match for a GW paint (unless of course you are halfway through painting an army and thats the main colour, in which case just stick with what you know works, or accept that half your marines will be almost imperceptibly darker than the other half). Like if you use Coat D'arms Gun Metal on an armour plate instead of Leadbelcher* wash it with an army painter black wash then highlight it with literally anyones shining silver paint it'll probably look fine. Personally I dont buy an alternate for a paint I still have on hand, only when it runs out. I do skew towards Coat D'arms, but thats mainly because thats the bulk of what my favourite local games store carries so if I suddenly realise that this dudes robe would look great in a Jade Green, chances are thats where I'll go and buy something. I do have to walk past a GW to get there, but y'know. *This is not a specific replacement recommendation, I'm not super familiar with GWs current paint lines, but from a google it seems like Leadbelcher is a gunmetal type dark silver? Everyone does a "plate mail" or "gun metal" or "sword blade" metallic paint. If you lined them up next to each other then I'm sure there are differences, but when its on a model? I'd bet the exact colour of the undercoat makes a bigger difference to the final look than exactly which brand you picked for "darkish gray metallic".
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 00:12
|
|
|
SiKboy posted:I'm not any kind of expert, but everything I've seen/been told suggests that metallics dont like wet palettes and vice versa. What I've been doing is using paint comparison charts to try and find the equivalent paints. However, they seem to be out of date, so newer colors like Lupercal Green or Thousand Sons Blue aren't listed, and so I don't know what to look for in regards to finding the closest equivalent. I know it wouldn't be a 1:1 match anyway, but I don't like trying to eyeball, because I feel like I'll pick something that ends up being far off from what I wanted, and searching for info online has mixed results, because either there's no real consensus on what to use as a replacement, or it involves mixing colors and/or airbrushing. Right now, I'm putting together an order via Miniature Market (where the prices are marked down 15% or so), and for the most part, the cost difference between Citadel and Vallejo is $1, so going with the GW brand isn't that big of a price jump. On top of that, some of the paints I have been able to match aren't listed for sale on the site (namely the VMA metallics  ), so I just default to Citadel.You mentioned contrasts, and as terrible as it sounds, I have thought about just doing contrasts in some cases, because it seems like a lot less hassle.  The metallics I just brought up because I thought maybe the VGC ones I got were bad or harder to work with. However, it could have just been the issue that I was using the wet palette for them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 01:25
|
|
|
Cost is not the reason to avoid Citadel, the paint pots themselves are. Washes are fine to use right out of the pot, same with stuff like the technical paints, but for any standard paint dropper bottles are vastly superior.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 01:32
|
|
|
You really shouldnt use metallics on a wet pallet, the caveat being if it’s one you’re reusing. If it’s just some lid with a washing sheet you throw out and rebuild every session then whatever. Metal pigments cant be washed out like acrylic ones for reusable stuff. For metallics this set covers most of my basic usage: https://www.micromark.com/Acrylicos...UYaArwSEALw_wcB
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 02:02
|
|
|
Cinara posted:Cost is not the reason to avoid Citadel, the paint pots themselves are. Washes are fine to use right out of the pot, same with stuff like the technical paints, but for any standard paint dropper bottles are vastly superior.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 02:09
|
|
|
Max Wilco posted:EDIT: One that I've wanted to try (though not at this time) is the TurboDork paints, because their color-shift/metallic paints look really cool. my buddy has the whole set of these and honestly they're not worth $6+ a bottle. they have to be airbrushed over gloss black primer. they'd probably look good on space marines but they don't shift much on small or non-flat surfaces. they're inconsistent in color, coverage, and thickness. like one bottle is like water and the next is white glue. the results he's gotten looked really cool but it has not been worth hassle imo
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 02:10
|
|
|
Cat Face Joe posted:my buddy has the whole set of these and honestly they're not worth $6+ a bottle. they have to be airbrushed over gloss black primer. they'd probably look good on space marines but they don't shift much on small or non-flat surfaces. they're inconsistent in color, coverage, and thickness. like one bottle is like water and the next is white glue. the results he's gotten looked really cool but it has not been worth hassle imo I've had okay results with the Green Stuff World ones, airbrushed them onto some transparent models over a satin varnish to give it kind of an oily sheen. What I'm REALLY curious about are those Armored Komodo dry multichrome pigments. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 02:16
|
|
|
Cat Face Joe posted:my buddy has the whole set of these and honestly they're not worth $6+ a bottle. they have to be airbrushed over gloss black primer. they'd probably look good on space marines but they don't shift much on small or non-flat surfaces. they're inconsistent in color, coverage, and thickness. like one bottle is like water and the next is white glue. the results he's gotten looked really cool but it has not been worth hassle imo Goddamit I JUST ordered a set of these to try and get the effect those Komodo ones do which I didn’t even know existed till this very moment. I have an airbrush setup and whatever and I’ll be fine. Now Im gonna have to grab the komodo stuff to do some testing.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 02:20
|
|
|
Sharks Dont Sleep posted:You really shouldnt use metallics on a wet pallet, the caveat being if it’s one you’re reusing. If it’s just some lid with a washing sheet you throw out and rebuild every session then whatever. Metal pigments cant be washed out like acrylic ones for reusable stuff. Yup, everyone should have a wet pallet for their standard paints and a dry pallet for metals, drybrushing, pigments and such.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 02:29
|
|
|
Sharks Dont Sleep posted:Goddamit I JUST ordered a set of these to try and get the effect those Komodo ones do which I didn’t even know existed till this very moment. I have an airbrush setup and whatever and I’ll be fine. Now Im gonna have to grab the komodo stuff to do some testing. i think you need flat smooth surfaces for any brand of these tbh. however these turbodork ones, the gold/red came out great. he thinned it a bit for the airbrush and the shift is really dramatic. the gold/blue/green started very thin and went on like poo poo and is really muddled. hopefully you have better luck with them
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 02:32
|
|
|
Cinara posted:Yup, everyone should have a wet pallet for their standard paints and a dry pallet for metals, drybrushing, pigments and such. Haha and inks. I totally hosed up and put a bunch of inks on a wet pallet back in the day and went to get a drink and was like OH GOD WHAT.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 02:37
|
|
|
Max Wilco posted:What I've been doing is using paint comparison charts to try and find the equivalent paints. However, they seem to be out of date, so newer colors like Lupercal Green or Thousand Sons Blue aren't listed, and so I don't know what to look for in regards to finding the closest equivalent. I know it wouldn't be a 1:1 match anyway, but I don't like trying to eyeball, because I feel like I'll pick something that ends up being far off from what I wanted, and searching for info online has mixed results, because either there's no real consensus on what to use as a replacement, or it involves mixing colors and/or airbrushing. Okay, but I guess the question I'm asking is; Why are you trying to find the equivalent paints to match specific Citadel paints? If you buy another brand and its a very slightly different shade of electric blue from thousand sons blue, why does that matter? If you are wanting that exact colour (for example maybe you want to follow a painting guide exactly, which isnt my thing but also isnt a bad thing. Me, I sometimes look at them for ideas, then usually just do the best I have with the paints I have) then the only way to be sure is to buy the citadel. If you run out of Lupercal Green halfway through painting a tank with it, then sure the exact colour match is important, but it sounds like you are just getting started with a lot of the things you are painting? So surely any dark military green would work fine? And contrariwise, if you are happy enough with the citadel paints, you like the pots and dont mind the GW tax, then why bother trying to find an alternative? You like their paint, its readily available, why go to the effort? You are absolutely allowed to just use citadel. And while cost is a minor factor in the paints for me, as Cinara mentioned, the GW pots are loving terrible. They dont always make a good seal, and the lids on about half of mine will randomly decide to half close themselves just as I go to put a brush in. Although I will say I dont totally love dropper bottles either. If I see a tiny part that needs a touch up (eg I dropped the drat figure and I can see a tiny bit of metal showing from the end of the nose) I like being able to take a small dot of paint on my brush without having to squeeze a (comparitively) large drop out or lever off the dropper top, and thats easier with a lidded pot. Also I once had a clogged nozzle on a dropper bottle, squeezed it and the end popped off and half a pot of elf green emptied into my wet pallette. I prefer the Coat D'Arms pots myself, but I realise thats because they are the exact pots that citadel used to use when I was painting 40K figures (badly) and so thats what I'm used to. I dont hate the MP Miniature paints (apparently they are "Gamecraft) pot, which has an actual unscrewing lid. Having a lot of different brands of paint will give you some Definite Thoughts about paint pots apparently. The reason I walk past GW is I like supporting my local (non GW) store when I can. Also sometimes I am not in a chat with randoms about miniatures mood (or am just in a hurry), and the GW staff seem to have a "ask anyone looking at paints about what they are painting" rule. Or are just friendly curious fellows, but I'd think working there would knock that out of you pretty quick. Also, why on earth do you think anyone will think that using contrasts is terrible? They are useful tools to have and use! If I have a group of minis all wearing leather dusters I have zero compunction about hitting all the coats with a thick coat of Snakebite Leather contrast and going about my day, and the black is pretty good for hair and suchlike too. I've tried a few of them for various things, and the only one I've tried that I'd warn people off is Magos Purple, unless you are specifically looking for a kind of slightly thicker purple wash. Even then applying it over a pink basecoat got a skintone I didnt hate for some malifaux guys (Terror tots for the record)., although its a bit blotchy in places. You might consider it a slight shortcut, but so is zenithal highlighting, and coloured spray primers, and batch painting, and premade washes, and having lots of paint colours instead of just having primary colours and mixing your own, and lots of other things I use when I paint. They arent suited for every application, but they are great in their niche. I'm not in any way knocking you for asking for recommendations for the record. (In fact I'm not intending to criticise you at all! I'm just curious as to what you are hoping for/why you are asking) Every brand of paint I've encountered has some paints I like (Vallejo do a yellow I like the coverage on, army painters strong tone wash is a belter, coat d'ams do a colour called "horse tone dun" that I find super versatile as a light tan) and some I dont (as I said, Magos Purple from Citadel is kind of dogshit, some of the army painter paints absolutely NEED an agitator in the bottle and a lot of shaking, a lot of Coat d'arms greys are much lighter or darker than I think they are going to be on an actual miniature). jesus WEP posted:I find it kinda funny that the Warhammer video channel always recommends putting the wash out onto the palette to control the amount on your brush, instead of just dabbing the rim of the pot like any sane person would do Yeah, I like the warhammer channel painter guys fine (they are good painters, and in the videos I've seen seem personable enough) but its always worth remembering they are working for a company that wants you to buy all the paints, and use as much of them as possible. Call me paranoid, but I always assumed "every brushload of wash that dries on the customers pallette is one more brushload closer to them buying another pot of wash" was the motivation on that one. Or, just possibly, "Try not to knock over a pot of Nuln Oil on camera, jackass", because motherfucker the pots of wash have a high centre of gravity.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 02:56
|
|
|
Crossposting: I'd like to make some sexy Iron Warriors and I think I have my first simple kit bash down:
I'm not sure what to do for backpacks or other bits to hang off them though and would love recommendations. Any specific mechanicum pieces I should throw in the mix? I'm also going to alter some Myrmidon Destructors to be used as Obliterators, so that should be fun!
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 04:21
|
|
|
SiKboy posted:
Short answer: I have brain problems that make me lazy, obsessive, paranoid, contradictory, and stubborn. Long answer: At this point, I mostly just follow or stick close to guides when it comes to painting. A majority of the tutorials I've seen online (a lot not from GW's channel) use the Citadel paints, and with the base/layer/edge system you know which paints to use in whatever order. When you move outside of Citadel paints, though, there's no real guide (that I know of) on which colors should be used in conjunction, and without buying the paint and testing it on something, you don't get an accurate idea of how they'll look. Thinking about it, I realize that I am particular about the color. With the Sons of Horus (at least in most of the examples of it I've seen) they aren't dark military green, but more of a dark seafoam. Something like Vallejo's Green Jade and Foul Green might work (based on what I found from a search), but then I worry about them being the right colors to use together, or it not turning out to be the right shade that I wanted. Also, I sometimes see comments about the paints not working that well, and so I ask to make sure that I'm not buying some really awful paint. I'm on the same page about the GW pots. I prefer the dropper bottle, since I don't have to worry about knocking them over and wasting the paint. There's a independent game store I've been to that sells different brands of paint and models (though I can't remember if they were at a reduced price or not), but it's out of the way to get to. In contrast (  ), there's a GW store that's nearby on my route home from work, so if I decide I want to get paint, I can always swing by there.The other way I buy paint is through Miniature Market, and through them, I get a reduced price. However, I usually make an order of $100 or so in order to qualify for free shipping. Thus, I think to do Vallejo, since the lower price means you get more paints per dollar. Obviously, that clashes a bit with the previous points, but that's how my brain works.  I thought to buy paint through Amazon, but I was told that there are sometimes issues with the paint not being stored properly (don't know if they meant in transit or in the warehouse where material is kept), and if it gets down to freezing, it ruins the paint.With contrasts, I guess it's an issue that they seem to have limited use. Somebody said that they don't work as well with models that have large, flat areas. With something like Space Marines or vehicles like the Rhino (probably more so the latter), it would be better to just use regular paint, and from that, I think it's better to just to use regular paints outright to get better at layering, highlighting, etc. That said, I still think they would look good on something like Death Guard (where a blotchy application would work to add the grimy look of DG), or for Alpha Legion (as the contrast paint seem to work really well over metallic), and I'm still interested in getting some more of them. As to why I think someone would find it 'terrible', I suppose it's because I see it being perceived as 'cheating' or 'improper', but then I haven't actually seen anyone expressing those thoughts. I don't know why I ask, really. I think it's just that I start overthinking it, and so I feel the need to ask in the thread if I'm buying the 'right paints'. Pastry Mistakes posted:I wish I could use the mk 2 crusade armor but I like the new scale size much more than the older ones so oh well. Can you still get Mk.II Crusade armor? I thought it was no longer available.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 06:54
|
|
about paint
|
Pastry Mistakes posted:Crossposting: https://anvilindustry.co.uk/Exo-Lords/Torsos-and-Power-Plants/Mech-Arm Also the Devastators kit has a bunch of big chunky backpacks, some with arms, that work fine if you clip the feed-tube or ammo belt connectors off.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 07:22
|
|
|
Max Wilco posted:
Hey, if it helps you not feel anxious about it or whatever, knock yourself out! I just want you to be aware that when a painting guide says "basecoat with thousand sons blue, do the details with pallid wytch flesh, highlight the details with guilliman white" you will get extremely similar results if you basecoat in whatever electric blue you have to hand, do the details with any brand of just off white, then highlight it with literally any white. GW want you to buy all their paints, obviously, and other people who tell you their mix/recipe/paintscheme will tend to default to GW colours because they are widely available and what most of the audience have to hand. If GW black, royal purple and gold is a nice strong colour palette on a model, then vallejo black, royal purple and gold will give just as nice a paint scheme. Contrast paints dont work well on large flat areas, that is true. So dont use them for that! Apart from that, go nuts. If using them gives you an effect you like (whether that is using them as "intended", or putting them over metallics to get a candy shell type appearance, or deliberately applying blotchy or whatever) then they are good. Its not cheating or improper any more than buying a pot of wash is. You could after all make your own wash by thinning paint down with water and acrylic matte medium (or Lahmian medium if you want to stick with GW) and possibly a touch of flow aid (or dish soap if you are a cheap bastard like me). I will still very rarely do that if I want to wash something in a very particular colour (or if I need a wash for terrain, because no way in hell am I buying enough agrax earthshade to cover a bunch of buildings with a shotgun wash of it). But if I just need a miniatures trousers washed with green? Break out the whatever its called Camoshade, slap it on. Quicker, easier, lets me get to the next bit I enjoy faster. Lifes too short to a) take no shortcuts at all or b) spend literally any time dealing with any arsehole who tries to make you feel bad about taking a shortcut in what is at the end of the day just a hobby you do for fun. Obviously if you enjoy doing Basecoat +Wash then Contrasts are largely unnecessary for you as they shortcut something you like doing. But me, I've got 15 gremlins wanting painted and using contrast ork flesh then highlighting with some light green will do just fine for most of their skin tones. Especially as I have a bunch of greens and sometimes suffer a bit of analysis paralysis deciding exactly which shade would work best for a particular application. I get the trying to get the best value thing, I really do. If I'm honest thats sort of part of the hobby for me; Trying to get the best results I can on a budget, seeing what corners I can cut and/or products I can sub out for rough equivalents and which I absolutely cant. Partly because I am not a rich man and want as much hobby as possible without spending huge sums, but also I just like doing it. Like even if I won the lottery I think I'd still be buying miniatures off ebay, doing most of my undercoats with car spray paint, making my own washes for terrain pieces and black rimming bases with thinned pound shop craft paint. But sometimes doing that means you have to be the one experimenting! And sometimes those experiments fail. So try the paint you are eyeing up. Worst case scenario it doesnt work well for what you wanted it for, you have to strip back your test model, buy another paint and redo it. But then you are the one who, when someone else asks, can go "Sure, this paint is a good substitute for gw skaven scrotal purple, but this other one from the same range is too thin and doesnt get as good coverage so avoid that one". And if it helps at all, I've had paints from lots of different ranges, and I've never had one that was literally unusable for anything. Maybe not what I wanted it for originally, but not a single bottle of paint has not found a use for SOMETHING.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 12:10
|
|
|
VMA brass covers with like 46 coats unfortunately.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 13:12
|
|
|
SiKboy posted:Hey, if it helps you not feel anxious about it or whatever, knock yourself out! I just want you to be aware that when a painting guide says "basecoat with thousand sons blue, do the details with pallid wytch flesh, highlight the details with guilliman white" you will get extremely similar results if you basecoat in whatever electric blue you have to hand, do the details with any brand of just off white, then highlight it with literally any white. GW want you to buy all their paints, obviously, and other people who tell you their mix/recipe/paintscheme will tend to default to GW colours because they are widely available and what most of the audience have to hand. If GW black, royal purple and gold is a nice strong colour palette on a model, then vallejo black, royal purple and gold will give just as nice a paint scheme. This is a loving phenomenal post. Paint because you enjoy it. Check in if you want suggestions, we only have opinions. Love what you do.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 04:19
|
|
|
If I wanted to get into mini painting but I don't have any minis to practice on, what are some good, cheap, and plentiful things to practice with? I was thinking I could just use stuff like army men or similar kinds of toys that you can get at dollar stores for pretty cheap but I don't know how well that would work for practicing or if there are better suggestions for cheap and plentiful minis.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 09:25
|
|
|
FirstAidKite posted:If I wanted to get into mini painting but I don't have any minis to practice on, what are some good, cheap, and plentiful things to practice with? I was thinking I could just use stuff like army men or similar kinds of toys that you can get at dollar stores for pretty cheap but I don't know how well that would work for practicing or if there are better suggestions for cheap and plentiful minis. If you have a local gaming/hobby store around, check them out. There are many lines of minis that are very cheap in comparison to GW minis. You could get some of Reapers BONES line of minis, or the D&D themed Nolzurs Marvelous Minis, both are very affordable. Many hobby stores will have discounted grab bags of minis that customers sold back to them as well, and you could get a real haul for not much money.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 09:33
|
|
|
Well, those green army men are like $5/100... That said I'd suggest sticking to painting things you like/want to be painting. You'll be more enthusiastic, do a better job, and improve more quickly. Don't paint a $35 GW character or something as your first mini, but at least find some Reaper Bones guys you like the look of or something like that. You can also look for deals on the retail versions of CMON games, you could probably find one with a few dozen minis for like $50.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 12:03
|
|
|
So I'm debating dipping my toes into the world of Citadel Contrast paints. Are there any "must have" ones? I'm thinking definitely Apothecary White and Black Templar, so any other suggestions would definitely be welcomed. Not looking to get the whole range (for now  ), but if there are ones that make particularly difficult colors easier/quicker to do, I'm open to suggestions. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 15:06
|
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:If you have a local gaming/hobby store around, check them out. There are many lines of minis that are very cheap in comparison to GW minis. You could get some of Reapers BONES line of minis, or the D&D themed Nolzurs Marvelous Minis, both are very affordable. Many hobby stores will have discounted grab bags of minis that customers sold back to them as well, and you could get a real haul for not much money. No FLGS unfortunately, closest is about an hour away and that's not really worth the trip imo just to see if they have anything. There's a sorta FLGS nearby but it is sketchy as hell and mostly deals in magic the gathering cards. The Moon Monster posted:Well, those green army men are like $5/100... That said I'd suggest sticking to painting things you like/want to be painting. You'll be more enthusiastic, do a better job, and improve more quickly. Don't paint a $35 GW character or something as your first mini, but at least find some Reaper Bones guys you like the look of or something like that. I don't mind the idea of painting green army men, especially since I can get a few dozen for way cheaper than $50. I would just want something to practice on that will be cheap and I was mostly concerned if the kind of material those things are made out of or the scale they're made at or anything about them in particular would make them not conducive to learning to paint properly.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 15:28
|
|
|
I’ve heard the yellow one is pretty good and shading yellow is a bitch so it’s probably worth trying
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 15:28
|
|
|
FirstAidKite posted:I don't mind the idea of painting green army men, especially since I can get a few dozen for way cheaper than $50. I would just want something to practice on that will be cheap and I was mostly concerned if the kind of material those things are made out of or the scale they're made at or anything about them in particular would make them not conducive to learning to paint properly. I don't see that as an issue. When you're starting out with painting minis, the thing to do is try and envision the figure as sort of a 3D coloring book; it's much more important to practice staying "within the lines", so to speak (which the army men would be perfectly OK to practice on). Get that down pat, and then you can move on to other techniques like shading, highlighting, etc., at which point you'll start to get an idea of scale and how that impacts highlights and shadows. jesus WEP posted:I’ve heard the yellow one is pretty good and shading yellow is a bitch so it’s probably worth trying Good idea, I'll add that to the list.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 15:36
|
|
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:So I'm debating dipping my toes into the world of Citadel Contrast paints. Are there any "must have" ones? I'm thinking definitely Apothecary White and Black Templar, so any other suggestions would definitely be welcomed. Not looking to get the whole range (for now Guilliman Flesh is a life-saver if you're painting a lot of "white" skin tones.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 16:03
|
|
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:So I'm debating dipping my toes into the world of Citadel Contrast paints. Are there any "must have" ones? I'm thinking definitely Apothecary White and Black Templar, so any other suggestions would definitely be welcomed. Not looking to get the whole range (for now I have about 10 of them, some are great, some are poo poo, most are okay. I am no great painter, before contrast I just did a base color and ink with an occasional highlight so stuff looked good enough to go on a table. Contrast replaced that for me, it saves me time to get base and ink done and I get sort-of highlights on spots I usually wouldn't bother with. Snakebite Leather is amazing, one thick coat works wonders. Space Wolves Grey is amazing as well, it gives you a matte, cold grey that works for nearly everything. One coat on knives or blades is all you need if you want dull steel. Agarros Dunes is okay Wyldwood is okay Nazdreg Yellow is okay Creed Camo is okay Terradon Turqoise is okay, but needs to be thinned down. Talassar Blue is okay, but needs to be thinned down. Blood Angels Red is okay, but needs to be thinned down. Akhelian Green is okay, but actually blue like jeans. If you paint it over a metal undercoat you get fantastic blue steel. Black Templar is okay, I like it on details but not bigger surfaces, though this goes for most contrast paints. If you paint it over a metal undercoat you get a perfect black gunmetal look. Dark Angels Green is awful, no highlights at all, just dark and darker making it hard to see any details on your miniature. You can thin it and get good results, but it ends up looking exactly like Creed Camo so just buy that one. Aside from the copper on their fueltanks en faceplates, plus the skin and red hair, these Naffatun were painted using only contrast paints. It mostly shows the three browns and my combo for black gunmetal.  Same for these Hac Tao, that really showcase the Space Wolves Grey I like so much. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 16:28
|
|
|
So I'm slowly working on expanding the types of kill team armies I have, and I'm waiting on a delivery of a 5 man Deathwatch kill team box. I'm now at a loss of how to paint dudes who are mostly black without them looking flat. Everything else I've painted (Necrons, guard, chaos marines) I was able to do a wash to darken the crevices. I imagine I can't do that on black painted guys. So what do you do? Do I highlight raised edges with dry brushing? What is a good color? Or am I wrong and is there a way to wash black? Werix fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Nov 18, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 16:32
|
|
|
Use dark grey or dark blue-grey for your basecoat instead of black E: i really like how GW’s dark reaper looks mixed with a little bit of black, for example
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 16:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 22:01 |
|
|
Werix posted:So I'm slowly working on expanding the types of kill team armies I have, and I'm waiting on a delivery of a 5 man Dearhwatch kill team box. I'm now at a loss of how to paint dudes who are mostly black without them looking flat. Everything else I've painted (Necrons, guard, chaos marines) I was able to do a wash to darken the crevices. I imagine I can't do that on black painted guys. I used this tutorial for mine and they came out beautifully:non fashy YouTube paint tutorial
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 16:59
|
|