|
Not unless you buy a lithium ion battery without an inbuilt battery management system
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2019 14:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 07:29 |
|
|
Steakandchips posted:If my motorcycle has a regular lead acid 6AH battery in it, and I replace it with a 9AH or 12AH lithium battery, it's not going to harm my motorcycle in any way is it? Do you mean lithium like RC car battery or like LiFePO? Assuming you mean the latter, then it’s lots of extra expense for limited use cases. Here is where I think it’s good: You are serious about racing and want the weight reduction. You are riding in the dirt and want the weight reduction. You have a bike that does not have any parasitic draw that you park outside in the winter and you can’t be near an outlet for a battery tender and you don’t want to just bring your battery inside for the winter. If you want a LiFePO battery, my personal recommendation is earthx. They have a full warranty rather than the standard prorated one batteries usually have. They have internal BMS and they have a feature where if they start to get discharged they turn off until you disconnect them and reconnect them. This stops the battery from getting fully discharged and dying which is the downfall of all LiFePO batteries. AGM you can revive if they die. LiFePO is just dead forever. They are, however, more expensive so if you don’t fall into one of those very limited use cases I don’t recommend them. builds character fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Nov 10, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2019 15:55
|
|
|
builds character posted:Do you mean lithium like RC car battery or like LiFePO? Something like this is what I was thinking. Is this a LIFEPO battery? Doesn't say that on the site anywhere.: https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/248929 Currently it's winter time in Scotland. 0C and sometimes lower at night and in the early morning. Starting it is OK. It's not instant, sometimes it takes 2 or 3 tries with the current lead acid batter. I'm not able to park it nearby to an electric outlet for a battery tender. Would replacing it with the above linked Lithium battery prevent the "sometimes needing 2 or 3 attempts to start it" issue? There are no parasitic draws on it. I'll be adding heated motorcycle gloves and a GPS, but since the gloves and the GPS unit will be unplugged when not riding it, there should be no parasitic draw.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2019 16:04
|
|
|
Ah, I saw you edited your post. I don't want to bring it inside for the winter either, as I ride daily. The one I linked though is only 2.5AH... The stock Honda one is 6AH. Sigh.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2019 16:09
|
|
|
Steakandchips posted:Ah, I saw you edited your post. I don't want to bring it inside for the winter either, as I ride daily. Yeah, unless you've got one of the edge cases builds character suggested and *need* the advantages of lithium, you can normally get two Yuasa lead-acid batteries for the price of a half-decent lithium battery, so may as well keep one at home hooked up to a tender and have it ready to swap out if the first one starts to falter. e: And if it's a Honda built in like the last ten years it will have some parasitic draw from the immobiliser and possibly the charging circuit for the ECU battery backup (not sure how many bikes have the latter, all modern Hondas definitely have the former though). It's only milliamps but it adds up - not sure if enough for a lithium battery to care that much though. goddamnedtwisto fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Nov 10, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2019 16:21
|
|
|
It's a Honda CBF125 2014. It uses a YTX7L-BS lead acid battery currently. So ok, not happy to hear it has a parasitic draw. Sigh. On youtube I heard good things about the AntiGravity lithium batteries. Googled them to see if any on sale in the UK: https://www.antigravitybatteries-uk.co.uk/re-startoem-batteries/antigravity-atz-7-re-start-battery.html Fucks sake, £156 is really expensive. The Yuasa YTX7L-BS is £33. https://www.thebatteryshop.co.uk/yuasa-ytx7l-bs-12v-6ah-motorcycle-battery-641-p.asp. That's a huge difference as you said. I might just get a lead acid spare and tender it up.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2019 16:33
|
|
|
Fortnine on yt did a stress test video on different batteries, very informative, might be worth a watch.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2019 17:38
|
|
|
Steakandchips posted:Something like this is what I was thinking. Is this a LIFEPO battery? Doesn't say that on the site anywhere.: The problem with LiFePO is that they need to be warm to flow current. They also warm up by flowing current. So in zero degree weather, you need to turn your headlight on for a minute or crank the bike a few times to warm up the battery before it starts. It’s nerve wracking the first few times as it feels like you have no juice and then voila! For you, consider this https://www.amazon.com/Antigravity-Micro-Starter-Hi-Power-Flashlight/dp/B07LGCWL2L/ + they sell a little tail that you can attach to the battery. It’s tiny so you can just put it in your pocket and bring it in so it’s warm every night. E: I’m dumb and didn’t refresh before posting. 1. Earthx is better than antigravity because of the warranty, if you’re going to get an expensive one. 2. Steakandchips posted:Ah, I saw you edited your post. I don't want to bring it inside for the winter either, as I ride daily. AH for LiFePO is a weird thing. Generally you want the biggest that’ll fit but LiFePO deliver all their juice so you can (and do) get lower AH batteries (and in fact they’re usually “AH equivalent” I think). But sounds like you just need a new agm maybe. builds character fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Nov 10, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2019 18:25
|
|
|
Steakandchips posted:It's a Honda CBF125 2014. It uses a YTX7L-BS lead acid battery currently. So ok, not happy to hear it has a parasitic draw. Sigh. Yeah you're kind of obsessing over irrelevant poo poo here. Every vehicle ever made has some parasitic draw, every engine ever made doesn't take the same amount of cranking every time. Buy a battery if it'll make you feel better, but you don't actually have a problem that needs fixing. If you're worried about it going flat just get a charger. If you ride daily, your battery is good for the next twenty years. It's inactivity that kills them. E: to make this less negative: If you really want to know what the gently caress is going on, both in a general sense and in case you have a real electrical problem in the future, spend that 35 quid on a cheap multimeter. Then you can actually measure your battery voltage while cranking and make an educated decision on what, if anything, needs to be done. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Nov 11, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2019 18:26
|
|
|
Might as well ask now before I try anything: when you clean and lube your chain how do you keep from making a huge mess on the garage floor?
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 03:15
|
|
|
FBS posted:Might as well ask now before I try anything: when you clean and lube your chain how do you keep from making a huge mess on the garage floor? lay a flattened big cardboard box underneath
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 03:37
|
|
|
do it out in the street
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 03:41
|
|
|
I do it in the street with a cardboard box between the chain and the rear tire, and shop paper towels on the ground beneath the chain
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 05:50
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:do it out in the street Razzled posted:lay a flattened big cardboard box underneath wtf is going on here where razzled has the socially responsible solution and sagebrush is advocating sending grease down the gutter
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 05:54
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:wtf is going on here where razzled has the socially responsible solution and sagebrush is advocating sending grease down the gutter They're both posting ironically.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 06:20
|
|
|
Oil comes from the ground in the first place so what's the big problem with putting it back? I don't get it
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 08:53
|
|
|
I let the chain lube pile up on the floor in a thick layer of drippings overnight. Then I scoop the drippings up with a scraper and rub them all over my tyres and nether regions, both for good luck and to appease the chain gods.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 09:08
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:do it out in the street while riding
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 11:02
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:They're both posting ironically. I like this
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 12:31
|
|
|
Came back from the desert and noticed one of the front forks on my bike are leaking. I've never done a fork seal replacement and was wondering a few things: 1. The bike is an XR600R but the PO did a USD swap from what I think was a CRF450. I see that the forks were most likely 47mm Showas, but to confirm the size do I just measure the diameter of the fork where it enters the triple tree? 2. I've always heard conventional forks need some special/homemade tools, specifically a seal driver. A few pages ago, some of you were mentioning that USDs have some gotchas beyond what conventional have and I wanted to know what the specifics were. I've been watching this video as a reference: https://youtu.be/k-RpTS3cQqk (skip to 1m in because dumb intro) It doesn't seem too bad to do, but if there's any tools I should consider buying to make my life infinitely easier I'm all ears.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 14:38
|
|
|
You measure fork diameter at the shiny sliding part, not the outer tube afaik. Using tape instead of a seal driver is clever, definitely filing that idea for later use. That video pretty much covers it. I'd recommend finding out what the Honda oil spec is for those forks, then googling up a CST comparison chart and getting something close. The 5/10/15w numbers on the packet are pretty much useless, the actual viscosity can vary massively from brand to brand within the same weight rating.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 18:14
|
|
|
I'm sure it's been asked before but anyone have experience with bike shipping companies? So far I know uship is garbage and will steal your bike, and haulbikes is expensive - I was quoted $950 for a half way across the US ship. Or am I just being a cheapskate. Edit: $800 from motorcycleshippers, bit better Infinotize fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Nov 11, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 18:17
|
|
|
I've got a little scrap of PVC pipe that I use for a seal driver. In fact, I've kludged every fork specific tool for my bikes and never had a problem or hosed anything up. The problem is it seem like every fork has a different specific tool. The weird one I remember is a 1-1/8" allen/hex fitting on the inside of the damper rod, into which the external allen bolt fits in. So I just bought a big rear end bolt and couple nuts with that outside dimension and used a couple ratchet extensions to a socket on one end, plugged that down into the inside of the fork and used the regular allen wrench on the outside to get it apart. Worked perfectly every time for like $2.50 as opposed to the $50 or whatever for the actual tool. Other people just jam a tapered dowel or wooden broomstick into it, but then you get wood shavings on the inside of your fork because it inevitably chews it up.
HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Nov 11, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 19:50
|
|
|
Infinotize posted:I'm sure it's been asked before but anyone have experience with bike shipping companies? So far I know uship is garbage and will steal your bike, and haulbikes is expensive - I was quoted $950 for a half way across the US ship. Or am I just being a cheapskate.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 21:51
|
|
|
Infinotize posted:I'm sure it's been asked before but anyone have experience with bike shipping companies? So far I know uship is garbage and will steal your bike, and haulbikes is expensive - I was quoted $950 for a half way across the US ship. Or am I just being a cheapskate. Odd. I shipped a bike using uship and had no issues, but I put a middle-of-the-road price out there instead of lowballing. It was also a long time ago, maybe crackheads have taken over since then. Bike showed up three days after being picked up in an enclosed trailer, no muss, no fuss.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2019 00:04
|
|
|
Thanks for the info on fork work, here's hoping I don't mess up horribly!
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2019 05:19
|
|
|
My KLR fork tool is a 5/8 nut hammered onto the end of a 15mm socket until it’s stuck hard enough that it’ll drive the fork bolts.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2019 08:28
|
|
|
Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I think I've only used Haulbikes, I remember them being cheaper than that but maybe it had been an off-season deal the last time I remembered it or something. Never had a complaint, though. Jazzzzz posted:Odd. I shipped a bike using uship and had no issues, but I put a middle-of-the-road price out there instead of lowballing. It was also a long time ago, maybe crackheads have taken over since then. Bike showed up three days after being picked up in an enclosed trailer, no muss, no fuss. Thanks, that's useful. Maybe uship is hit or miss (they are a broker after all) or depends on the region, but another forum I frequent is full of horror stories.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2019 18:35
|
|
|
Starting with the fact that I know absolutely nothing about hitches, towing, etc, if I buy a vehicle with a 650lb max tongue weight, is there any reason I couldn't use a hitch carrier like this to transport a Daytona 675? The Daytona is supposed to be 417lbs wet, and the carrier is 51lbs, so seems like it should work fine. Anything to be aware of when using a hitch carrier versus towing a trailer? It would be a lot easier to have a hitch carrier and be able to drive full speed than to rent a uhaul trailer and be limited to 55mph.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 21:08
|
|
|
It depends. I bought one of the cheaper black widow steel carriers for my 250lb dirt bike which works perfectly. I will say that even though they are rated for 500lbs, I dont know that I would trust it with that much weight. They are shipped in multiple pieces and assembled with bolts. I put permanent thread locker on them so that they dont come loose or back out. I drive an 08 4runner with upgraded suspension and there is some front end lift which causes a little bit of wandering on the highway due to the increased weight over the tongue but for the most part its fine and not really noticeable. I avoid hard stops because hard enough and my handlebar would go through my rear window (maybe not with a fairing sport bike). Another thing you have to watch out for is entry/departure angle. Since it hangs so far off the back, if you go up or down a steep driveway, its possible to bottom out the carrier and scrape it on the ground. I did buy an aftermarket stabilizer to keep the whole thing from wobbling and moving around too much. It worked far better than the one it came with. Loading my bike is easy but dirt bikes are pretty light and have good ground clearance. A 425lb dirt bike might be more difficult especially if your hitch is especially high. Also you could have issues with blocking your brake lights, rear view mirror vision, and blocking your license plate. Some places are more strict than others and you might get a ticket. Other places maybe not. I've personally never had an issue. Looking back, I would feel much better had I bought the nicer Versahauler which is a solid one piece welded unit which a higher weight rating but also costs $650. A trailer for me wasn't a great option because it was more expensive, would require storage, maintenance, plates and tabs, and isn't as easy to tow/maneuver on rough roads. The only benefit would be carpooling with riding friends but I typically only do that with one guy who has a pickup truck, otherwise I meet people at trailheads. Verman fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Nov 18, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 22:08
|
|
|
MomJeans420 posted:Starting with the fact that I know absolutely nothing about hitches, towing, etc, if I buy a vehicle with a 650lb max tongue weight, is there any reason I couldn't use a hitch carrier like this to transport a Daytona 675? The Daytona is supposed to be 417lbs wet, and the carrier is 51lbs, so seems like it should work fine. Anything to be aware of when using a hitch carrier versus towing a trailer? It would be a lot easier to have a hitch carrier and be able to drive full speed than to rent a uhaul trailer and be limited to 55mph. Personally I would feel ok with a sub-300lb dirtbike or DS on one, but would not put that much (expensive) weight on something that is bolted together and then is held in the receiver by nothing more than a kingbolt and cotter pin. Also, depending on the vehicle 500lbs is a good chunk of weight to ride on the bumper and will have some handling consequences. You're not going to pop wheelies like Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho, but you'll feel it, and I doubt you'd want to go any faster than 55mph with that either. If you do get a hitch carrier get a welded one or weld the bolted one together. You could always make a very decent and lightweight trailer from an old boat or PWC trailer. Strip it down, weld a c-channel rail in the middle (or make a flatbed with a chock) and some tie points and you're done. It's the same idea as converting a Harbor Freight trailer but will undoubtedly be stronger and sturdier. Find one with a bad axle for cheap and replace the whole axle, which allows you to choose any weight, width, bolt pattern, and wheel size. The bigger and wider the tires of the trailer, the more stable it feels.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 22:43
|
|
|
If you want to hitch haul a sport bike I’d spend the extra on something nice like a mototote
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2019 06:17
|
|
|
Anyone have any recommendations for TPMS monitors? I have a gift cert to Amazon and it sounds easier than manually checking pressure before I ride.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2019 15:54
|
|
|
Verman posted:I drive an 08 4runner with upgraded suspension and there is some front end lift which causes a little bit of wandering on the highway due to the increased weight over the tongue but for the most part its fine and not really noticeable. I'm looking at the newer Lexus version of a 4runner (GX460), I hadn't really considered the weight affecting the handling. I think GXs I'm looking at have an auto rear height adjusting/leveling feature for towing, but I need to confirm they all have it (I'm buying a used one). I'm also not sure how much that helps out the handling with regards to a bunch of weight behind your rear axle. Gorson posted:You could always make a very decent and lightweight trailer from an old boat or PWC trailer. Strip it down, weld a c-channel rail in the middle (or make a flatbed with a chock) and some tie points and you're done. It's the same idea as converting a Harbor Freight trailer but will undoubtedly be stronger and sturdier. Find one with a bad axle for cheap and replace the whole axle, which allows you to choose any weight, width, bolt pattern, and wheel size. The bigger and wider the tires of the trailer, the more stable it feels. I just discovered folding trailers, which may be an option, but once again I'm limited to 55mph in CA (although as you said, I may not want to go faster than that with all the weight on the hitch). Trailers are also nice because I can fit my buddy's DRZ on the trailer too, but even with a folding trailer I don't really have a great spot to store it in my garage right now. Razzled posted:If you want to hitch haul a sport bike I’d spend the extra on something nice like a mototote Yeah after the responses from this thread I'll definitely shell out for a nice one if I go the hitch carrier mount. Of course for the price of a nice one, I could just rent a uhaul cargo trailer multiple times.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2019 18:24
|
|
|
I mean it's not quite a sport bike, but I drove 300 miles to a rally race with the drz on my hitch rack going like 80mph the whole time, felt fine. My hitch is only rated for 500 lbs (4runner) A nice hitch rack makes all the difference
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2019 18:58
|
|
|
I will say for my dirt bike, that hitch hauler has been great. I drive a minimum of 1-2 hours to go ride so I'm at the point of trusting it on the highway doing 70-80 through the mountains. I should have asked, how often are you planning on hauling your bike? Is this to bring it to the track every now and then or will it be a common occurrence? If you're doing track days several times a month or something, a trailer would be my ideal solution. If you're just doing it once a month or less, a hitch hauler might be the better option. MomJeans420 posted:I'm looking at the newer Lexus version of a 4runner (GX460), I hadn't really considered the weight affecting the handling. I think GXs I'm looking at have an auto rear height adjusting/leveling feature for towing, but I need to confirm they all have it (I'm buying a used one). I'm also not sure how much that helps out the handling with regards to a bunch of weight behind your rear axle. Adjustable airbags should help stiffen up the rear when you put the bike back there and prevent your front from lifting.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2019 19:38
|
|
|
My goal is 4 to 6 track days a year, so sounds like a hitch carrier is perfect. I mean ideally I'd have a covered trailer I'm towing that keeps the bikes from being visible and lets me store all my tools, etc, but that's just not in the cards right now.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2019 21:08
|
|
|
MomJeans420 posted:My goal is 4 to 6 track days a year, so sounds like a hitch carrier is perfect. I mean ideally I'd have a covered trailer I'm towing that keeps the bikes from being visible and lets me store all my tools, etc, but that's just not in the cards right now. A Harbor Freight 4x8 folding trailer is pretty inexpensive. Just put new bearings in it, quality lug nuts and other fasteners, and a 1/2" plywood deck with a wheel chock and some solid D-rings and you can store it in whatever corner you have for most of the year. If you're not a homeowner or otherwise don't have space, here's one thing to consider about hitch carriers. A big fat rear sportbike tire may get stuck in the rails depending on the design. This has happened to me on two different bikes, two different hitch carriers. The rails were just wide enough for the sidewall of the tire to slip down between them when I strapped in, but just tight enough to make it a fuckin fiasco to get unstuck to take the bike off. So measure the widest part of your tire and narrowest part of the hitch carrier where the rear wheel sits.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 17:19
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:A Harbor Freight 4x8 folding trailer is pretty inexpensive. Just put new bearings in it, quality lug nuts and other fasteners, and a 1/2" plywood deck with a wheel chock and some solid D-rings and you can store it in whatever corner you have for most of the year. Maybe check out advrider too for a trailer in a bag? Even with minimal room, seems like it might be a viable alternative. for example, https://advrider.com/f/threads/trailer-in-a-bag-clone.1417454/
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 23:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 07:29 |
|
|
Lately I'm getting some kind of drivetrain slippage when I roll on too fast at high speed in top gear (eg for an overtake). Revs jump from 4k to 5k but the bike noticeably doesn't go faster (though if I keep the throttle on it does pick the speed up after a bit). How do I tell if it's the tyre or clutch that's slipping? Part of me thinks tyre because this only started when the temperature dropped to freezing last week, but another part thinks it must be the clutch because I haven't noticed any fishtailing when it happens or any loss of grip in any other circumstances. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2019 10:14
|
|