|
Check out your local turning association. You'll find a bunch of passionate turners who'd love to help.
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 17:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 04:34 |
|
|
Ironically turning is at the fore of my desires too. I’m chummy with a guy at Rockler in Seattle and it came up that I wanted to take a class and he laughed and handed me his flyer. He teaches in Edmonds and a 2 hour bowl sesh is 100 (and 3 hours is 150. I think it’s 1 on 1 and he’s a really friendly guy. Lemme know if you’re near North Seattle / Edmonds...
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 17:19
|
|
Feenix posted:Ironically turning is at the fore of my desires too. I’m chummy with a guy at Rockler in Seattle and it came up that I wanted to take a class and he laughed and handed me his flyer. He teaches in Edmonds and a 2 hour bowl sesh is 100 (and 3 hours is 150. I think it’s 1 on 1 and he’s a really friendly guy. Thanks! Rhode Island tho.
|
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 18:45
|
|
|
That Works posted:Thanks! Rhode Island tho. Yeahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Ok. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 19:29
|
|
|
Feenix posted:Ironically turning is at the fore of my desires too. I’m chummy with a guy at Rockler in Seattle and it came up that I wanted to take a class and he laughed and handed me his flyer. He teaches in Edmonds and a 2 hour bowl sesh is 100 (and 3 hours is 150. I think it’s 1 on 1 and he’s a really friendly guy. Dang, that’s not a bad deal at all. I’m just a few minutes from Edmonds, but not real interested in turning at this point. Now if he had a hand plane or sharpening class I would be more interested. I took a spoon carving class at Woodcraft in Seattle last winter and wasn’t super impressed. It was okay, but the instructor seemed half checked out throughout the class. I think it’s heavily dependent on who’s teaching the class, but the classroom was certainly well stocked tool wise.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 19:57
|
|
|
I'm trying to learn to be a better turner and slice not scrape but I still get a catch like 1/3 of the time trying to cut a bead with a skew because bad bad habits are hard to break and I just want to be this guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOuznRWUGos&t=320s But today I realized I don't need to turn a bead with a skew? A gouge does it as well or better and is 100x less risky and I'm okay with not being a Navy SEAL turner. This guy's videos have also been really helpful to me to better understand what is happening and why it matters: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjDmM-IdWyJ1g0VyxwFpv5g
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2019 05:11
|
|
|
Feenix posted:Ironically turning is at the fore of my desires too. I’m chummy with a guy at Rockler in Seattle and it came up that I wanted to take a class and he laughed and handed me his flyer. He teaches in Edmonds and a 2 hour bowl sesh is 100 (and 3 hours is 150. I think it’s 1 on 1 and he’s a really friendly guy. That's so cheap! The local wood supplier here does them at about $360 AUD a course, but you also get free selection on your turning blanks and keep the parts you make. They often have stuff like Wenge,purple heart, cocobolo etc (which is all v hard to get into Australia and hence v expensive) Tbh I'd rather just use Huon pine
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 02:19
|
|
|
McSpergin posted:That's so cheap! The local wood supplier here does them at about $360 AUD a course, but you also get free selection on your turning blanks and keep the parts you make. They often have stuff like Wenge,purple heart, cocobolo etc (which is all v hard to get into Australia and hence v expensive) out of curiosity what do you pay for Coolibah burls? Being an Australian breed and all.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 03:33
|
|
|
Can I solicit some advice from you guys? I'm restoring bits and pieces of a bicycle I neglected for years outside in the backyard. There's a rear rack on the bike which has a wooden board on it. Years of exposure to the sun has left the top side dried and cracked: Top side:  and for comparison, the bottom side looks better and still has a smooth feel to it: Bottom side:  I know nothing about woodworking, so I thought it'd be fun to try restoring this a bit. From what I'm reading online I should be able to bring this back to life by sanding it down, then coating it with a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine? If that's hilariously wrong, what would you guys recommend?
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 05:34
|
|
|
That will work, but, if it's going to spend lots more time outside, I suggest spar varnish. That's what people use to protect the woodwork on boats, it has UV protection as well as being more or less waterproof. If this is going to be living indoors and only outside when ridden, then the BLO is a fine option: the turps is just a thinner and optional, it'll help the BLO flow but it's not necessary, you can just sand and then wipe on BLO with a rag. Do at least two coats. You could also use tung oil, or really any varnish you like.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 06:13
|
|
|
Just please read the warning labels if you use BLO and don’t wad up your rag soaked in BLO and throw it into a garbage. Lay it out on a non flammable surface and let it dry out as it can self combust if wadded up.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 06:23
|
|
|
Thanks for the advice guys. I'll look into getting spar varnish since the bike will still get a lot of exposure to the elements as I'm using it now for commuting and errands.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 07:42
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:out of curiosity what do you pay for Coolibah burls? Being an Australian breed and all. If I see one at the other timber guy in Sydney that does mostly burls (I've not had a chance to get there yet) I'll let you know Local hardwood is relatively well priced, I got a red gum slab for $50 that would have been about 550 (22") X 330 (13") and was around 2 inches thick. It had a few holes and imperfections so I broke it down into sticks for cutting boards
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 11:39
|
|
|
I just contacted a dude on gumtree (kind of like Australian Craigslist, but only for selling stuff) who had some out in Yass (3h from me by road, provided the area isn't on fire) so I guess I'll find out soon what a burl slab is worth
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 11:46
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:out of curiosity what do you pay for Coolibah burls? Being an Australian breed and all. $4.50 a kilo but I have to make a 3 hour trip each way, I've questioned the guy on sizes as I'd like to do something cool with a burl (maybe saw it into quarters and build a river junction table or something, idk)
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 11:56
|
|
|
2-4 kg chunks go for $60 (woodcraft price, so high end). I would say I have paid $30 for about 1kg in the past.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 16:48
|
|
|
McSpergin posted:I just contacted a dude on gumtree (kind of like Australian Craigslist, but only for selling stuff) who had some out in Yass (3h from me by road, provided the area isn't on fire) so I guess I'll find out soon what a burl slab is worth Post pics and prices if you don't mind! I've had this down and out guy trying to slang me burls for a long time now but I'm pretty sure hes just taking them from live trees so I'm really not interested
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 17:11
|
|
|
I'm trying to debark a slab, and it's really slow going.  Is this the wrong tool? Is my technique wrong? Or have I just chosen a really big job? I was kind of expecting the bark to tear away in strips, but it's too well adhered to the wood to do that, so it's more like I'm sanding it away with really aggressive sandpaper. It makes a ton of dust (I'm using a respirator, but it makes a mess) and of course I'm making a lot of burn marks. This is Chinese Elm, cut down and slabbed about two years ago. It's been air drying in my workshop in California since then.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 18:00
|
|
|
Wonder if a Draw Shave would work quicker with that type of bark? I know angle grinders are great for knocking off bark but that looks more like the stringy type of bark.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 18:09
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm trying to debark a slab, and it's really slow going. I was curious to how this was going to go, I don't think the grinder with wire wheel was ever the easiest way to do this as its just going to destroy the bark in small sections and never going to come off in strips easily like you want because.. its a grinder. I have a bunch of elm branches with similar bark that is a huge pain in the rear end to debark compared to cedar or fir. I use a draw knife, stone chisel (anything with a point that wont wear down and I can hit with a hammer to get under and start the stripping) and an ice pick to get in small areas. The wire wheel will "get the bark off" but its going to be in dust form and rough going. Your technique looks totally normal and fine, that attachment is going to do that no matter what. Try a draw knife? Its so much harder taking bark off dry wood vs wet :/ edit: I legit can't find a way to get bark off a branch or round perfectly without at least one marking of wood surface in some way (which is almost always fine because I don't need it perfect as I never use the first inner layer under the bark) unless the wood is green and you get lucky. Obviously its easier if its been cut. I don't need to its more of a curiosity to see if I could be doing the work better and always the impossible chasing some perfection in your work. Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Nov 20, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 18:13
|
|
|
Looking for a table saw for a small workshop, upgrading from a Ryobi mistake purchase. I don't have a huge budget, I'm a dabbler at best so far, and I want it to be mobile. The R4512 is the right choice, right?
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 18:14
|
|
|
more falafel please posted:Looking for a table saw for a small workshop, upgrading from a Ryobi mistake purchase. I don't have a huge budget, I'm a dabbler at best so far, and I want it to be mobile. The R4512 is the right choice, right? Or the Delta 36-725 which pretty much directly competes with the R4512. If you want something smaller, the Dewalt DW745 and DW7480 are great options too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 19:09
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm trying to debark a slab, and it's really slow going. For debarking I would use something like this 
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 19:16
|
|
|
If you're getting best results with a grinder and wire wheel for whatever reason you could also consider a larger angle grinder, I think they make them up to 9" but the bigger they get the sketchier they are imo and can hurt you fast
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 19:26
|
|
|
Falco posted:Or the Delta 36-725 which pretty much directly competes with the R4512. If you want something smaller, the Dewalt DW745 and DW7480 are great options too. These would be my suggestions as well. If money is not a huge concern the Sawstop Contractor is under $1k right now ($999  ) On a similar note I have a question of my own. I too have a Ryobi POS table saw that would not die. I pulled the motor out and on my "to buy" list is a drum sander. Plenty of people have made their own drum sanders using a table saw motor and some plywood. I however have access to a full metal fabrication and machine shop. Am I *edited* for wanting to build my own drum sander out of steel (and powder coated of course) just because I have a motor? JEEVES420 fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Nov 20, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 20:06
|
|
|
That particular slur is not permitted anymore, JEEVES420, even when joking about yourself. Please edit it out, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 20:42
|
|
|
Alright, thanks y'all for the advice. I have a spokeshave and will give that a shot; I don't own a drawknife yet. Care to recommend one?
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 21:02
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:That particular slur is not permitted anymore, JEEVES420, even when joking about yourself. Please edit it out, thanks! I never seem to know what slurs are socially acceptable 
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 21:06
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:I never seem to know what slurs are socially acceptable I mean, none of them, ideally. Except for slatflippers. My personal guideline is to avoid using terms that insult what people are by birth or fate, rather than how they behave by choice. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Nov 20, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 21:23
|
|
|
got a nice piece of Baltic Birch as my Miter gauge fence. (Recall I had put masking tape on my stock Dewalt Table Saw Miter Gauge. If you push from the back (the tightening handle) it slides fine enough. But if you push from the wood (which is where you would be pushing from, obviously) it forces the Miter gauge rail to push forward down and it doesn't want to slide. (I can post a video somewhere, its 10 seconds long... if it's needed). Is it possible the rail is too short? (Its not a very nice Miter gauge, just stock with the table...) So to reiterate, when pushing the miter gauge with fence from the wood, it forces the rail to dip in front (sort of a vertical "slop", if you will) and doesn't want to slide. Anything I can do to combat this?
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 21:57
|
|
|
sounds like your track is not sitting down in the slot, there's a gap beneath it, so it's just kind of dangling by the cross piece of the miter gauge. Maybe add some tape to the bottom, see if it'll fit more snugly?
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 22:05
|
|
|
Spokeshave is way more successful: The concave parts of the slab are gonna be a pain still, but this is going a lot more smoothly. Should've tried it from the start, oh well. My ultimate goal for this piece is to turn it into a coffee table. I thought it'd be neat (and would lighten the slab considerably) if I could hollow out part of the interior to make a storage space. Is there some way to do that that lets me keep the top of the slab for use as a lid? Sort of like a giant bandsaw box? About all I can think of is to crosscut the slab into thirds, resaw the lid off of the center third, hollow the interior, then reattach everything, but those would be some heinous end-grain connections to hold the thirds together. I guess another approach could be to do the hollowing from the bottom. I don't care about preserving the bottom surface (obviously I'll have to replace it with something), so I could just hollow out a big rectangular area, drill through the corners to mark them, and use a coping saw to cut the lid. I am hot garbage at controlling coping saws though. Maybe coping saw the lid out, then clean up the edges with a router, and put some kind of banding on the edges of the lid to fill it in for a flush fit?
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 22:13
|
|
|
Feenix posted:(I can post a video somewhere, its 10 seconds long FYI, Imgur will let you upload video files under 30 seconds (I think). When you use the gauge still use the handle for the forward/back motion and your off hand for holding the stock to the table and fence. The handle is in line with the track to ensure even forward/backward movement without putting stress on any other direction.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 22:26
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:FYI, Imgur will let you upload video files under 30 seconds (I think). This makes good sense. However the problem is that it’s a poo poo miter gauge and there’s very little to grab on to with regard to the knob. It’s barely an inch tall and mainly for tightening the gauge’s angle. I’m considering a better gauge... any suggestions for a sub-50$ miter gauge that is good? Maybe a more prominent handle? [edit] Or just a replacement handle... I guess? It's just a flat screw/bolt thing, a washer, and whatever the knob is. I could use anything I guess? Feenix fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Nov 20, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 22:47
|
|
|
Delta gauges are pretty solid but no frills. https://www.amazon.com/Delta-34-929-DELTA-Deluxe-Miter/dp/B00I33XUKS/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=miter+gauge&qid=1574289624&sr=8-7 Now I know this sounds like price creep but if you can swing in the $75 range it gets you Incra gauges which then opens your wallet for all the micro adjustments, stops, and fences. Sure in a few years your miter gauge will cost more than your saw but look how accurate it is  https://www.amazon.com/INCRA-MITERV120-MiterV120-Miter-Gauge/dp/B001RCTTG6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=miter+gauge&qid=1574289208&sr=8-4
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 23:43
|
|
|
Incra gauges are A++++++++ worth every penny. Only accessory I use with mine is a piece of 8/4 ash as a fence, but I have to believe all the other accessories are just as wonderful. I've been working on my lathe to try to make it more efficient so I bolted a tool rack on to the back of it and put a big fuckoff 20k lumen 4 tube fluorescent fixture over it because it was dark over there:  I've also been hanging out in the metalworking thread and lurking in CC lately so and I went wild with some mixed media, abstract expressionist sculpture:  But turns out it's highly functional too:    Duplicating fingers! They work really well. I pretty shamelessly copied Richard Findley's design but in plywood and used barrel nuts and a bolt to hold them in place instead of squeezing with metal. https://www.instagram.com/p/BmapIchgPRQ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link They were simple enough to make out of 3/4" ply, but it would be really nice if they were thinner so I could get them closer together. That would require doing them in aluminum or steel (thought I've got some 3/8" PTFE I am gonna try with) which I'm not really set up to work with in any way precisely. I do a whole lot of spindle turning, and I can tell these are seriously going to speed things up and be more accurate than calipering everything. The picture doesn't do ti justice, bome of this mahogany is basically birdseye. Pretty to look at:  Not very friendly to turn:  After that I started putting tape on the ends. Usually I can make that cut no problem with out it, but apparently not in this wood. Getting back to turning a bunch was also a great reminder to sharpen my loving tools! It doesn't take long and I don't realize they are even dull but it's night and day when they are really sharp.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2019 01:45
|
|
|
Dang those are really, really cool. What a great idea.. its so simple but I never would have thought of it
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2019 01:57
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:These would be my suggestions as well. If money is not a huge concern the Sawstop Contractor is under $1k right now ($999 I literally never understand why people won't just get a sawstop tbh. A bit more money for a lot more safety is a good trade off imvho
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2019 02:13
|
|
|
McSpergin posted:I literally never understand why people won't just get a sawstop tbh. A bit more money for a lot more safety is a good trade off imvho “A little more” being literally twice the price in the case of the jobsite saw.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2019 02:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 04:34 |
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I've also been hanging out in the metalworking thread and lurking in CC lately so and I went wild with some mixed media, abstract expressionist sculpture: Is it wrong I want to see it spinning on the lathe like a combine  Baronash posted:“A little more” being literally twice the price in the case of the jobsite saw. Easily a grand more as you step them up as well. I can also give you examples of accidental firings and straight up bad firings due to electronic failures, each one costing $200+ a pop. If you want a Dado blade you have to shell out another $100 for the dado stop. Don't get me wrong they are great saws but its not just the entry fee to play with you hotdogs, the "costs more" keeps going with accessories and you really have to think about what you are cutting or even getting close to the blade (ie tracks on sleds, Incra miter fence, tape measure, wet wood, etc.) I personally don't like that they also tried to make a legal push to require all tables have the break but would sue anyone who tried to use their patent. They essentially wanted royalty rights on a legally obligated safety feature.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2019 02:45
|
|