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Oct 28, 2019 23:07
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| # ? May 10, 2024 08:44 |
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It’s uh, very festive!
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Oct 29, 2019 00:08
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 Such a magnificent beast.
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Nov 5, 2019 16:40
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Kinda excited to install these this weekend. I hope they fix some of the clunks I'm still hearing. :|
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Nov 8, 2019 08:30
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I haven't had a chance to do the trans mount yet, but I pulled my replaced PMM and installed the Damond one, and holy poo poo, is it ever loud. The OEM pmm was still in tact and seemed healthy. I will do the trans mount and see how it feels, but I'm not sure if I will keep the pmm or remove it. Or maybe it will brake in a little and get less bad. Who knows? I at least need to go get an alignment and do an autocross now that I got poly-mounts-bro. Oh, also, discovered an oil leak at what I think is the gasket between the oil cooler and the spin on filter housing. So I guess I need to order and install the updated cooler, and I guess do a coolant change since I think you have to drain the coolant to remove the cooler. Great.
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Nov 12, 2019 22:26
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The mounts should settle in within a few k miles and be less harsh. Though I’m never quite sure if this is really the case, or that you just get used to the added NVH. Either way, it shouldn’t bother you as much after a while
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Nov 14, 2019 21:47
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I've always felt that just upgrading one mount out of 3-4 makes it worse, because that one is so much stiffer and now carrying a much larger proportion of the load and transmitting more nvh. And possibly over-stressing the mounting point. Like I've seen some subarus break the pitch stop mount off the firewall from just adding a stiffer one and leaving the rest of the drivetrain mounts alone. Do all the mounts and I want to say it will slightly better and probably not worse.
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Nov 15, 2019 19:01
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Yeah I believe that. I'm going to try and do the trans mount this weekend. Hopefully it isn't too hard to do.
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Nov 15, 2019 20:30
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It’s not crazy, but definitely the most difficult of the 3 by a good margin. I had to loosen the PMM and RMM so I could move the motor around to get the TMM to line up. The biggest PITA with the Damond mounts is that you have to mount one piece of the TMM to the trans, and then place the other piece on the chassis and line up the big bolt that goes through the bushing and connects the two pieces together. It’s kind of a blind operation. My cheat for this was roughing everything in place loosely, then hand tightening one of the accessible bolts on the lower piece (that mounts to the trans) to hold it in place (guaranteeing alignment later), then taking the top piece and bolt out, and then tightening the other bolts on the lower piece (and torqueing them). Then when I dropped everything back in, that main bolt lined up with no issues. E: Recommend putting blue loctite on all of the trans mount bolts. The PMM and RMM are easy to visually inspect for bolts loosening up, but the TMM is buried. Having a bolt work loose sucks more for the TMM. FWIW, I ended up putting loctite on all of my motor mount bolts, PMM and RMM included, because any bolts connecting to the chassis kept backing out. I torqued them to factory spec, so I’m not sure what the deal was. hattersmad fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Nov 15, 2019 |
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Nov 15, 2019 20:46
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Good tip! My rear noise keeps returning, but it's significantly better with the Moog endlinks than the others. I guess I will grease them again and see if that helps at all. A very frustrating thing with the moogs is there is not much thread to engage on the bolt that runs through the Damond swaybar. I am wondering if the lock washer and nut are loosening and if I should try to find an equivalent locknut, for it, instead. Did I mention in this thread that it looks like the oil cooler gasket failed recently and had leaked some over my filter and spin on housing? I ordered the newer/revised cooler which is supposed to be better, direct from Japan. So I guess I'll be doing an oil and coolant change soon. Starting to get real annoyed with this car. If my brother ever gets the Tesla model 3 performance "stealth" that he ordered, I'm tempted to sell the MS3 and buy his fiesta ST off of him.
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Nov 16, 2019 00:32
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After a month of ownership I'm still really enjoying the Mazda6. Only complaints are minor: the bottom hinged accelerator pedal still isn't my bag, baby, but I have learned how to drive the transmission and it's quite good. The auto seems to respond more to how aggressively you press the pedal rather than how far down (until the kickdown switch) and so you really have to tip it in to get the trans to downshift. Pedal travel seems longer than other cars, too. I appreciate Mazda for not giving it 50% throttle in the first inch of pedal travel though.
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Nov 16, 2019 02:27
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Mazda is teasing something. https://twitter.com/MazdaUSA/status/1195487940996022272
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Nov 16, 2019 08:12
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Ooh maybe whatever that straight six is supposedly going into?
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Nov 16, 2019 14:07
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At this point I'm conditioned to assuming its another crossover.
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Nov 16, 2019 14:31
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opengl128 posted:At this point I'm conditioned to assuming its another crossover. 
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Nov 16, 2019 18:26
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TheGoatTrick posted:Correct, it's the CX-30 that is already available in Japan and Europe. The headlights, grille, and hood overhang in that teaser look nothing like the CX-30.
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Nov 16, 2019 19:08
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Here's one from the same angle, it's identical. 
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Nov 16, 2019 19:54
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Now I see it. I was getting tricked by the shadow. It made it look like the overhang goes over the headlight housing, when it doesn't. The housing blends in.
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Nov 16, 2019 21:46
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Lame af
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Nov 16, 2019 23:44
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TheGoatTrick posted:Correct, it's the CX-30 that is already available in Japan and Europe. lol welp
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Nov 17, 2019 00:02
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Got the DM trans mount in without too much difficulty. Getting the mount lined up turned out to not be that hard, but it was just kind of tedious to have to move the shifter cables around to access some of the bolts. The OEM trans mount rubber was cracking and looked dry, but I'm not sure if it had 100% failed. I forgot to plug the MAF back in initially and the engine stalled on the first startup. Plugged it back in and it started fine, but the idle seemed a little low, maybe? I also still have a CEL. I don't ha e an OBDII reader, so I'm unsure if this will self clear or if I should disconnect the battery and see if that clears it. Initial NVH is loud, but it seems like the PMM quieted down a little in about 100 miles so we'll see how this goes.
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Nov 17, 2019 01:30
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My mechanic is pretty convinced that my fuse box corrosion is responsible for my 08-3’s check engine electrical codes. I’ve been waiting for him to source me a replacement but no movement in like 4 months and I just bought one on eBay sight unseen. If my car can survive check engine hell util spring I might just try to re-splice all the cables myself. If it doesn’t — well, better hope the fuse box fixes it since I’ll just give it to him to install. All this money in, I should have just dumped it into a downpayment on a new model. Ah well, $3k+ buys you a lot of hindsight :P
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Nov 18, 2019 21:36
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Hey guys my 2017.5 Mazda 6 GT is having issues with lag when I try to unlock it. Like, it won't unlock for the first 5 seconds when I'm mashing the button. The battery on the car seems fine, it starts up just fine and it was just in for regular service at the dealership two weeks ago. The temperature has dropped pretty fast in my area but like this morning was 44* so I hope that's not low enough to cause issues. Could it be the key fob battery? The car is less than 3 years old
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Nov 22, 2019 13:42
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Always possible, does it light up when the buttons are pressed? That’s the surest way to check if it’s even sending. Luckily batteries are cheap and the older fobs, at least, are easy enough to get into. I will also add to my earlier tire review to say my continentals are curiously not good on wet traction. They broke loose this morning on wet pavement in a curve, luckily was able to save it, but this this the second time that’s happened (other was a simple surface street right hand turn well under 20 mph). Pavement in both spots is not great (worn towards slick) but I really did not expect to have issues like this, tires have ~22k on them.
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Nov 22, 2019 15:00
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THE BIG DOG DADDY posted:Hey guys my 2017.5 Mazda 6 GT is having issues with lag when I try to unlock it. Like, it won't unlock for the first 5 seconds when I'm mashing the button. The battery on the car seems fine, it starts up just fine and it was just in for regular service at the dealership two weeks ago. Could be the fob. I've had to replace the batteries in both our fobs each year since we got our '17 3. I have noticed one way to tell if the fob battery needs to be replaced it flashes orange whem you press buttons on it instead of red.
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Nov 22, 2019 15:39
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Replace the fob battery, I had similar problems with my 3.
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Nov 22, 2019 16:52
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If it uses a common button cell (usually CRxxxx) check Amazon - you can get cards of 10 of them for about $6-7. Which is only slightly more expensive than single blister packs sell for retail.
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Nov 23, 2019 00:58
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The FOB uses a CR2025 battery which is common at most super markets or, as you said, can be bought in packs for relatively cheap online.
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Nov 23, 2019 19:27
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Yeah definitely the fob battery - both of mine died at the same time when the car was about two years old. Because I only ever use one fob and they both died at roughly the same time it doesn’t seem to be very dependent on how much the fob gets used. Re replacements I’ve found the cheap ten packs aren’t worthwhile because half of them end up dead out of the packet and the other half only last a month or so. Perhaps I’ve just had bad luck with them but it’s actually more economical to buy an expensive twin pack from a supermarket instead.
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Nov 23, 2019 20:53
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I found a bunch more chips and scratches in the paint that I should probably fix, but I'm still surprised with how shiny I can get the paint. Anyone here have experience with Dr. Colorchip? Can it fill or fix scratches and chips that are down to the primer? I have a vial of touch-up paint from the Mazda dealer but I've never been good at applying it. 
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Nov 25, 2019 22:34
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MetaJew posted:I found a bunch more chips and scratches in the paint that I should probably fix, but I'm still surprised with how shiny I can get the paint.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZq_jeYsbTs
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Nov 29, 2019 13:10
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Weird problem with my girlfriend's Mazda3. It's a 2018 Touring automatic with 10k miles that was purchased new in June. I just put 205/60-16 General Altimax snows on it for the winter. She was driving it and the traction control light came on followed by an intermittent squealing noise. Then the CEL (not blinking) came on and it went into limp mode (I was not there for this). Also when put into reverse the gas pedal goes dead and the car doesn't move. In park it seems to be running normally. The "AT" light is also on. Has anyone experienced anything like this? It's still under warranty so this isn't the end of the world but we're three hours from home for Thanksgiving.
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Nov 30, 2019 03:03
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SFH1989 posted:Weird problem with my girlfriend's Mazda3. It's a 2018 Touring automatic with 10k miles that was purchased new in June. I just put 205/60-16 General Altimax snows on it for the winter. I'd say your transmission has completely poo poo itself but I'm not really sure what to make of the, "Also when put into reverse the gas pedal goes dead and the car doesn't move" part. Does this mean the engine doesn't rev up at all or the car just doesn't move as if it was in neutral gear? Obviously this isn't normal for these cars, historically Mazda3s like to eat motor mounts, make their drivers deaf with road noise, but otherwise don't have any notable transmission quirks across four generations. It's just really bad luck 
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Nov 30, 2019 03:23
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Take her to your nearest dealership. Something had gone quite fucky.
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Nov 30, 2019 03:59
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Does a tow to a dealer end up being comped if it's a warranty repair?
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Nov 30, 2019 04:02
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I would bet you could swing it. Or if it's still under warranty call Mazda roadside service.
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Nov 30, 2019 04:15
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Fabulousity posted:I'd say your transmission has completely poo poo itself but I'm not really sure what to make of the, "Also when put into reverse the gas pedal goes dead and the car doesn't move" part. Does this mean the engine doesn't rev up at all or the car just doesn't move as if it was in neutral gear? The engine does not rev at all, the gas pedal does nothing. This all happened within about 15 minutes, no issues before that. The transmission blew up in my mom's '13 Escape while I was driving it last year and that gave some warning signs. It's currently sitting less than a mile from a Mazda dealer but their service department is closed on the weekend. The closest one with weekend service is an hour away, an hour closer to home at least. It's a real bummer, we both like the car a lot.
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Nov 30, 2019 05:24
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If you're near an auto parts store try and get it code scanned, maybe the CEL will give us some clues. I don't like the sound of it.
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Nov 30, 2019 05:29
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SFH1989 posted:The engine does not rev at all, the gas pedal does nothing. This all happened within about 15 minutes, no issues before that. The transmission blew up in my mom's '13 Escape while I was driving it last year and that gave some warning signs. You'll ultimately need to get to a dealer. You may also want to review the lemon laws in your state - I don't doubt that you've had a huge strike of lovely luck regarding the transmission in this case. Mazda has been using these SkyActiv engines and transmissions for years without many issues for the majority of everyone on the planet. But I also worry if the dealer doesn't have a good tech to dismount one transmission and mount a new one you're gonna be stuck with a car that has "weird" problems for the whole time you own it. If the law let's you I'd say toss it and get another of the same color.
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Nov 30, 2019 06:50
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| # ? May 10, 2024 08:44 |
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It's under warranty, call Mazda roadside assistance, they'll take care of it.
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Nov 30, 2019 10:54
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