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That squat is something else. I bet you could get a way better burnout with some heavier springs back there.
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Jun 10, 2019 01:06
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Having done this exact thing in FWD cars repeatedly all I can think is "thump thump thump" because flat spots on the rear tires. If this makes me a boring old man, them I'm ok with that. Vanagoon fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Jun 11, 2019 |
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Jun 10, 2019 01:37
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That squat is something else. I bet you could get a way better burnout with some heavier springs back there. I installed some variable rate springs last year. Only spring I know of that's heavier is for a van.
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Jun 10, 2019 13:05
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Left Ventricle posted:Hi guys. Helicoil those things, my man! quote:Once that was sorted... Congrats on gettin' going again! I like the Reatta wheels. The Grand Am? wheels in the burnout vid look pretty decent, too. Left Ventricle posted:I installed some variable rate springs last year. Only spring I know of that's heavier is for a van. Throw some airbags back there for when you're hauling, or the occasional burnout.
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Jun 11, 2019 23:50
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Those of you who have been following this build may recall a dilemma I've been facing for some time: air conditioning. I am currently attempting to survive another Las Vegas summer without it. Here's why. The original AC compressor is incompatible with the LX9. The mounting points are all wrong. I found a compressor that mounts correctly, specified for a 94-98 V6 N-body, and has the ports for the refrigerant hoses in the correct location to bolt the stock hoses on. However, the oil filter interferes with the hoses. I went to the yard (when I found those headers) and got a filter adapter off of a Skylark, in the interest of moving the filter out of the way of the hoses. That ended up putting the filter even more in the way. Then I found this: https://www.amazon.com/Transdapt-1350-SNDWCH-ADPTR18MM-RING/dp/B000N8GTJ0 It's a remote filter adapter. Just put it wherever I want! I imagine I will need two of them, some fittings and oil cooler hose in the right size, to make it work. Anyone wanna brainstorm with me about where to locate it? 
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Jul 10, 2019 04:48
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I don't think you use two of the same part, but I could be wrong. I think most of them use one part mounted to the engine, and a generic / universal remote filter mount with a bracket attached so that it can be bolted to something. Since you can put it wherever, no reason you have to stick with the same size filter either.
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Jul 10, 2019 04:59
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Yeah, you buy a separate oil filter mount, which will have a bracket or bosses for mounting to a convenient firewall or other surface. Those usually use some sort of standard filter. Check with Jegs or Summit - they usually have the whole kit for reasonable prices.
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Jul 11, 2019 23:11
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Left Ventricle posted:Anyone wanna brainstorm with me about where to locate it? 
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Jul 12, 2019 01:58
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Posting to keep the thread out of archive. The turn signals in the wagon stopped functioning. It's the switch. I will be paying someone to fix that, since I don't feel like potentially taking a first generation airbag to the face.  I also changed the oil. It appears to have used a little over a quart since the last change. I guess that's not terrible for an engine with ~150k miles and being beat on daily. 
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Sep 21, 2019 04:16
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I was taught that so long as the battery is disconnected for several minutes, you should be alright wrt the airbag. They're really only designed to have enough juice if, in a hypothetical situation, the front end gets sheared off or the battery compartment is compromised.
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Sep 22, 2019 07:41
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I've taken apart a GM steering column after turning on the headlights, followed by disconnecting the battery, touching the cables together, and just waiting a few minutes. I lived. (I also once did it live.. just pulled the plugs out of the column, then realized "ohshitthatwasayellowconnectorwasn'tit holy gently caress the airbag didn't go off, I bet I'll get an airbag light later tho..." *10 minutes later meme* "well poo poo, no airbag light either, I got lucky") So long as you pull the battery and don't have any kind of static build up, it's fine. It'll be fi*pop*
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Sep 22, 2019 13:59
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Most if not all connectors containing airbag squib wiring have a shorting bar on a spring that automatically shunts the terminals together when the mating harness is unplugged. You guys are overthinking this. I've heard that some VAG ACMs will fire a squib as soon as it's plugged in if there's power to the ACM at the time, however. I cannot swear this is true. Also, some semi standardized color codes: Yellow connectors and harness looms are almost always airbag related. Orange are high voltage for electric and hybrid vehicles. Green connectors are usually but not always some sort of diagnostic connector. Edit:   
kastein fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Sep 24, 2019 |
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Sep 24, 2019 14:23
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https://autoparts.beforward.jp/detail/Lightings/Tail-Lights/PA21372631/ https://autoparts.beforward.jp/detail/Lightings/Tail-Lights/PA21368622/ Anyone wanna loan me a few hundred bucks? I would love to install these on my wagon. The wiring would have to be redone to accommodate a separate signal, but it would be cool as poo poo to have actual JDM parts on my car.
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Nov 23, 2019 07:29
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Huh. Add that to the list of things I didn't know existed. Might be able to find cheaper variants in Eurp?
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Nov 26, 2019 21:19
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Darchangel posted:Huh. Add that to the list of things I didn't know existed.
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Nov 27, 2019 04:39
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Left Ventricle posted:I don't know of many American exports to Europe during that timeframe. I know the U-platform vans saw some notoriety, and could be had with a manual transmission, but the A-bodies were not widely distributed. Fascinating that they ended up in Japan, then.
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Nov 27, 2019 19:31
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I mean, we exported the Cavalier to Japan.. As a Toyota Cavalier.
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Nov 27, 2019 20:27
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STR posted:I mean, we exported the Cavalier to Japan.. The best part about this is that you can walk into your local Chevy dealer, give them a GM part number, and walk out with a Toyota badge.
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Nov 27, 2019 21:06
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:The best part about this is that you can walk into your local Chevy dealer, give them a GM part number, and walk out with a Toyota badge. Yes, but not with a water pump gasket for a 97 Tacoma.
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Nov 27, 2019 21:56
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Those tailights look like they're just Celebrity wagon tails with one segment re-tinted orange. How hard would it be to just re-tint some Celebrity tails and save yourself a pile of money?
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Nov 27, 2019 23:17
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Q_res posted:Those tailights look like they're just Celebrity wagon tails with one segment re-tinted orange. How hard would it be to just re-tint some Celebrity tails and save yourself a pile of money? You're largely correct, since Japanese regulations require a separate amber signal. The important bit would be rewiring the harness so that the turn signal is separate. The 6000 sedan had a separate amber signal, but no other variant of the A-body had a separate signal. Alternatively, JDM TITE YO
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Nov 28, 2019 03:56
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Left Ventricle posted:I know the U-platform vans[...]could be had with a manual transmission Tell me more. E: the 5-speed was an option with the Quad 4. Meh. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Nov 28, 2019 |
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Nov 28, 2019 19:14
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Hi. George broke down today, in the most George way possible: the smallest part ground the entire operation to a complete halt. It had to be dragged back home by my other car. Here we see George in his natural habitat: occupying the parking spot of shame in the street. Here we see the problem.  To the untrained eye, there might not be anything amiss. The missing part: the 7x trigger wheel that used to be bolted to the crank pulley, which is necessary for the engine to run. It fell off today. It's probably going to be a little while before I can get another one. So tomorrow I'm going to have to put on my big boy underoos and do some work on the yellow sedan to make it worthy of my daily commute. This poo poo always seems to happen right after I fill the tank with gas too.
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Feb 8, 2020 21:59
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Gonna guess that Loctite and/or safety wire will be involved in the next one.
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Feb 9, 2020 10:55
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Darchangel posted:Gonna guess that Loctite and/or safety wire will be involved in the next one.  Now I would like everyone to give a big warm welcome to the newest member of my shitbox fleet:  Those of you with a keen eye will note that this is NOT an A-body. It is, in face, a J-body! 2004 Cavalier. My uncle gave it to me. It has problems, chief among them an overheating issue that occurs within a few minutes of starting up. He had the head gasket redone about a year ago, so I hope it's not that. There's oil in the coolant, so it probably is that Here is a pile of suspension parts I'm going to throw at both the sedan and the wagon.  The wooden crate at the back is a JEGS 80617 spring compressor. I will now be able to assemble my own struts! The red box is an oil filter relocator. The oil filter is in the way of the refrigerant hoses in the wagon, so once I slap that on, I should be able to have AC in the wagon again. Summer is on its way in Vegas, so that will be nice. Gotta make room for the Cavalier though. It's a bit of a mess in the garage...    Cleaning in progress.      This is where most of the junk is going:  I will be pushing the Cavalier in, then getting started on the interior. My uncle owned it for something like seven years and I don't think he once cleaned it. Probably gonna end up throwing the whole interior away and getting (hopefully) decent stuff from the junkyard. Some Z24 seats would be cool.
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Mar 7, 2020 21:07
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I don't think the Ecotecs (03+) had nearly as many head gasket issues as the iron-block-aluminum-head 2200 SFIs that predated them, so hopefully it's an easy fix.
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Mar 8, 2020 04:34
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God. gently caress the 2200s. I ruined several days doing a
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Mar 8, 2020 05:33
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I don't think the Ecotecs (03+) had nearly as many head gasket issues as the iron-block-aluminum-head 2200 SFIs that predated them, so hopefully it's an easy fix. They weren't prone to head gasket issues, unless you let them get REALLY loving hot (they normally run at ~220-230ish to begin with, temp gauge sits dead center until it gets over 240, at least going by my Ions with the same engine). Betting it got hot, and the block and head didn't get skimmed before the HG got replaced... What they ARE really prone to is timing chain tensioner issues. Luckily, it just screws into the timing cover with a 32mm socket (have to give it a few real solid whacks to get it to release once it's installed), and the latest revision is pretty solid. But hey, may as well throw a new chain at it while it's apart anyway. The L61 is a pretty solid engine aside from that, and generally easy to work on for the most part (timing parts and water pump excluded). Should make the J body scoot pretty decent too, it makes decent torque at lower RPMs for a 4 banger. LV, a leaking water pump will let coolant into the oil (but not oil into the coolant) (the drat thing is driven by the timing chain and hidden behind the timing cover  ), but they rarely fail. Since you say it overheats quickly.... yeah, probably HG.
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Mar 8, 2020 17:54
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Well at least it's an Ecotec and is actually worth fixing. Can also tell your uncle never washed or waxed it lol, same thing happens in Florida, you can say goodbye to the clear coat if you neglect the paint for too long.
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Mar 8, 2020 21:10
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I fully 100% support your other cars, but have a hard time being encouraging about J-bodies. I love me some shitboxes but a j-body (other than a cimmaron) is a bridge too far. Speaking of, a cimmaron z24 quad4 swap sounds appealing...
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Mar 9, 2020 02:02
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I kinda like J bodies. Especially quick ones.  Applebees Appetizer posted:Well at least it's an Ecotec and is actually worth fixing. I don't care how well it was cared for, the clear coat on that era GM falls off after just a few years on the dark colors. Doesn't matter if it's a J Body or a loaded Cadillac, it falls off. Honda/Acura had the same issue around that time, so did Nissan, and many other car makes. Some law changed the way paint was formulated around the mid to late 90s, the result was garbage paint for ages.
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Mar 9, 2020 20:21
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I believe that would be the changeover to low- VOC solvents.
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Mar 10, 2020 21:52
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Ha! I had a 2004 Cavalier, black and with the Sport Package, which consisted of 16” alloys with 215/50 Goodyear RSAs and a spoiler. I drove it until 2008, put 70k on it with absolutely zero issues. Not bad for a vehicle purchased new for $9,999.
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Mar 15, 2020 04:13
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J body! Anyone have pics from that dude's thread where he hacked one up to create El Cavilero?
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Mar 15, 2020 08:35
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dubzee posted:J body! I probably do somewhere at home, but I bet the internet would provide.
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Mar 18, 2020 19:41
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Seven years into this car, and I arrive largely back where I started. An engine, two transmissions, three sets of suspension and front brakes, and a partridge in a pear tree. Today's travails encompass a misfire so bad, the PCM doesn't even notice it. It's been getting worse over the course of the week, culminating in stalling at idle, hard bucking under acceleration, and random coughs when cruising. I've been through the fuel system a couple times, so I'm sure it's not that. If, say, the fuel filter were clogged, it would just make poo poo for power, not poo poo itself at random. I picked up a multimeter to test the ignition coils. GM waste spark coils are known for being pretty durable, to the point that even L67 guys usually don't think twice about sending them on high HP builds. You can get some from MSD, but I can't justify $54 each just because they're red. The resistance range for GM coils is 5k to 8k ohms. All three were right around 6k. I then pulled the module and had it tested. It tested fine. So I'm scratching my head in the Autozone parking lot. Coils ohm'd out fine, module tested fine, the 7x trigger wire wasn't dragging on the axle like last time, fueling was fine. Time to actually check spark, the hard way. I pulled the plug wire off the post of the 1-4 coil while it was running, and there was hardly any spark at all. Limped it home, slammed on another coil from the pile I have laying on the garage floor, and all is well. Saved me the trouble of pulling the intake to test the injectors. George be doin' me like this though. Just coming up with ways to cause me anxiety. I'm going to have to replace the driver's side axle AGAIN because the outer boot split AGAIN. STILL don't have air conditioning, turn signals are non-op. I'm really starting to consider getting a roller skate with AC to commute with. As much as I love this car, it's really getting to me these days. Anyone wanna loan me ten grand? At some point in the near future I will make a thread for the Cavalier. My uncle is getting me a set of keys cut at the dealer as I type this. I'll be digging into it, mainly focusing on things that don't cost any money, like cleaning the interior. That ought to be
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May 1, 2020 22:07
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As a recovering GM owner (who jumped ship to Subaru... I'm still on the fence about which is worse in the super cheap car range).. Welcome to GM.
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May 2, 2020 17:42
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drat dude, just cut your losses and get the nicest Camry/Corolla you can afford and enjoy the Toyota reliability. Hell you could probably get a decent high mileage Lexus for cheap.
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May 2, 2020 18:55
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May 3, 2020 02:59
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Applebees Appetizer posted:drat dude, just cut your losses and get the nicest Camry/Corolla you can afford and enjoy the Toyota reliability. gently caress, find a first gen IS300.
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May 3, 2020 03:35
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