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My 06 legacy has the heated wipers but no other winter options at all. Seems kind of a weird choice to me.
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Nov 27, 2019 14:25
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Oh then I definitely don't have it. My mirrors are still frosted and my asscheeks are cold and I've already driven to work. I had to work yesterday or my wipers would have been frozen down today. Had a nice ice drift this morning driving in. Winter is so much more fun with snowshoes and awd.
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Nov 27, 2019 14:53
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I have heated wipers on both of my Subaru’s! Umm...how do I turn them on?
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Nov 27, 2019 15:21
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i own every Bionicle posted:I have heated wipers on both of my Subaru’s! They should come on when you turn on the defroster.
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Nov 27, 2019 15:31
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i own every Bionicle posted:I have heated wipers on both of my Subaru’s! On my older cars it has always been a button on the dashboard next to the foglight switch. It might be automatic in the post-07s and come on with the defrost switch, like the heated mirrors do.
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Nov 27, 2019 15:40
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I have seperate switches for the mirrors and windshield. Both work. The rear defroster, OTOH, doesn't.  (light comes on, and it looks like one line across the back window has power)
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Nov 27, 2019 17:08
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I think I remember a redneck fix for that being to paint the gaps in with graphite paint. Rumor, not tested, but curious.
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Nov 27, 2019 17:14
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There is a special conductive paint that you can use to repair the lines: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OSRQD1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JwQ3Db2S2WMDY
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Nov 27, 2019 17:50
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STR posted:Yes, it looks like a brown blob at the bottom of the windshield (if it hasn't been replaced with a non-heated one) with a little defroster grid. You probably have heated mirrors too, if you have the heated windshield. Winter pack should also come with a LSD in the rear
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Nov 27, 2019 18:29
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Seat Safety Switch posted:On my older cars it has always been a button on the dashboard next to the foglight switch. It might be automatic in the post-07s and come on with the defrost switch, like the heated mirrors do. My '05 LGT has a button on the dash. Under the mirror adjustment bit. looks like this: 
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Nov 27, 2019 18:59
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bonelessdongs posted:Winter pack should also come with a LSD in the rear Wasn't 100% on if that was standard on the outback, or only the winter package. I know the LSD in mine definitely works though.  MalleusDei posted:My '05 LGT has a button on the dash. Under the mirror adjustment bit. 00-04 Outback (and I assume Legacy) has it on the dash as well, but has the mirror controls on the door. (pic taken after replacing every backlight bulb in the switches, none lit up with the parking lights after I tore the dash apart to replace the clock backlight bulb..  ) Nice to see they moved the dimmer to the dash on later models; having it on the turn signal stalk bugs me. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Nov 27, 2019 |
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Nov 27, 2019 20:41
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My wiper heaters and side window defrosters are tied direcly into the rear window defog.
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Nov 27, 2019 22:57
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STR posted:I have seperate switches for the mirrors and windshield. Both work. Open your hatch and pull back the rubber 'boots' on the wiring harnesses that are inboard of the top corners. On my 05 Outback, both harnesses had wires that were frayed through (a known issue). I replaced the more important of the two with a new one from Subaru, as well as the one in the driver's door. This fixed a remarkable number of weird electrical gremlins. Also check the hard mount on the glass that the plug attaches to.
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Nov 27, 2019 23:16
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Just checked. Everything behind the boot (on both sides) is sleeved pretty far in, can't really see much further without daylight. But I pulled the trim off around the window and checked where the tab is soldered to the grid with my multimeter - 13.8 volts on the positive with the engine idling/lights on/rear defroster switch on and using a bolt on the tailgate as a ground, so that pretty much rules out the feed. It's possible the ground may be bad, but it's likely just grounded with the rest of the lights. Unfortunately the leads on my multimeter aren't long enough to reach both terminals at the same time without someone holding the meter for me. Someone's been in there before - the trim around the back window was missing one metal clip, and the trim that covers the bottom half of the hatch was loose. Nothing looks like it's been touched before except for that, so I'd hazard a guess that the PO tried to figure out what's going on. One line on the grid does seem to heat up, the rest don't. Probably just be easier to replace the The car doesn't have any current electrical gremlins; it had a blown lighter fuse when I got it, and a bunch of lights out. Everything works now except for "D" on the PRNDL tree (fuckers soldered those bulbs in, it can stay burned out). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Nov 29, 2019 |
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Nov 29, 2019 06:28
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Get a cheapo set of alligator clips and you can run a multimeter probe wherever you want. Usually if there's a multiple-line break in a defroster grid, it is in the same horizontal place across multiple lines. One item made the damage instead of a bunch of little strikes over years. You should be able to visually identify it. Working around tint sucks, though.
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Nov 29, 2019 06:41
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The only line working is the one going directly between the terminals on the glass.  And even that one seems weak.I normally park in a garage (at least until May), and I don't really plan to have this car more than a year. Maybe two years at most. So it's not exactly high on the priority list. I don't really want to remove the tint to try and fix it. #1, because I don't want to further damage the grid. #2, because I don't want to have to re-tint the whole car to match (oh yeah, the radio antenna is a grid on the driver rear quarter window too, so that would probably be damaged by tint removal too.. unless it's sandwiched between layers.. for giggles I just priced that piece of glass, it's an eye-watering $800 from Safelite)
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Nov 29, 2019 07:00
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Captain McAllister posted:Open your hatch and pull back the rubber 'boots' on the wiring harnesses that are inboard of the top corners. My rear wiper stopped returning reliably and frayed hatch wires were to blame. It was a bit of a pain splicing some new wire in, but it fixed it.
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Nov 29, 2019 18:04
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Any issues that I should be looking out for on the 2019 WRX's? Even with Carplay support the infotainment system is complete trash--but besides that I haven't noticed anything.
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Dec 1, 2019 03:13
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STR posted:Wasn't 100% on if that was standard on the outback, or only the winter package. I know the LSD in mine definitely works though. Those are supposed to light up?
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Dec 3, 2019 07:45
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Yup. Two light bulbs in each switch - one to indicate if the switch is on (orange light), teal-ish colored for backlighting when the parking lights are on. Obviously plain incandescent bulbs with a color filter in the switch. The on/off bulbs (orange) don't burn out often, except for maybe the fog light one, if you constantly leave your fogs on. i actually have every switch illumination bulb on this car working now, except for the hazard switch (... if it's supposed to light up anyway, I assume it is). More because I don't feel like tearing the bezel back off. The bulbs are stupid easy to replace if you order the bare bulbs, at least on those switches - they have a twist-out socket, have to untwist the old bulb out of it first, then thread the wire through the socket base, snip the excess (best to do all of them at once so they match in brightness, since the bulbs aren't the OEM ones... but it was like $8 for 10 of them). That panel just pops out with some effort (easier with the bezel off, but it'll come out with the bezel on), and the switches pop right out once you unplug them.The seat heater switches are a bit more of a pain, you have to disassemble the switches and try not to destroy the slide-on silicone bulb holders. One of them did tear on me, but I wrapped the wire around the terminal and slid the holder over it. Works fine, and it's such a low wattage bulb that it shouldn't cause any issues. Seat heater switch disassembled, showing the two silicone sockets, and 2 new bulbs - pretty sure nearly every other switch that's intended to light up has a socket for the bulbs (except maybe the driver's power window switch). The bulbs aren't an exact match, but having replaced all of them, at least they look even in brightness.  When I got the car, the passenger side seat heater switch didn't light at all, while the driver's side seat heater switch had a working on/off bulb, but didn't light up at night. Until I pulled the switches apart to try and figure out how to replace the bulbs, then no lights at all.  The fog and cruise switches also lit up with the dash lights when I got it (windshield heater switch didn't), but after pulling the cluster to replace a couple of burned out lights in there, none of the backlights worked on those switches anymore. Also lost "D" in the PRNDL afterwards, but that fucker is soldered in, so it can stay out for all I care (all of the other PRNDL lights work, the shifter position switch works fine and sends the proper signal when in drive, the transmission shifts normally when in drive, so gently caress it, I'm not ripping the cluster apart to solder in a loving bulb).I still haven't figured out which position on the seat heater switch is high and low, nor have I figured out if one position only activates the rear end heater vs both the rear end heater and lower back heater. It takes a long time to heat up (~10 minutes). I guess I could actually look in the owner's manual that's sitting on the desk...  e: holy  randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Dec 3, 2019 |
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Dec 3, 2019 19:36
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So just tore it apart to do rotors, and... I'm 99% sure I found the source of the vibration under throttle. LF axle is aftermarket (Napa). It not only has a bit of play in the inner CV.. it's also moving around on the splines. I didn't climb completely under it to check (cramped 1 car apartment garage, and have to keep the door closed if I'm working on a car), but I'm betting some idiot didn't put the roll pin back in.  The replacement RF axle I installed doesn't budge even slightly on the splines with the roll pn in, and even with it out when I was installing it a few weeks back, only slides in and out. I'm hoping it just trashed the axle, and not the splines on the diff.  I'm pretty sure the slop on the inner CV is a result of it not having the roll pin in and letting it move around. Napa stuff is generally decent, in my experience. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Dec 6, 2019 |
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Dec 6, 2019 21:23
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I did a survey of cars I would buy given the dump of snow we just got, and boy howdy would I spend money awfully fast on a higher performance Crosstrek.
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Dec 7, 2019 04:32
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Mr. Powers posted:I did a survey of cars I would buy given the dump of snow we just got, and boy howdy would I spend money awfully fast on a higher performance Crosstrek. I think they're already selling as many as they make, so they need to get some more capacity before they have a reason to make a turbo model. Looks like they did start building them in Indiana and ended Camry production.
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Dec 7, 2019 06:41
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I would love a turbo crosstrek Probably placebo but the reprogrammed ignition they did as part of the recall on my ‘19 crosstrek feels a bit snappier when accelerating
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Dec 7, 2019 09:22
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They got rid of the turbo Forester - Subaru aint making a turbo XV.
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Dec 7, 2019 12:32
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:They got rid of the turbo Forester - Subaru aint making a turbo XV. Yeah, that's the sad truth. They'll probably just limp the WRX and STI along until electric cars take over.
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Dec 7, 2019 15:50
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If they did, it would be CVT only anyways.
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Dec 7, 2019 16:23
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bull3964 posted:If they did, it would be CVT only anyways. ... also indisputably true.
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Dec 7, 2019 17:21
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weird since they reintroduced a turbo outback
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Dec 7, 2019 18:25
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luminalflux posted:weird since they reintroduced a turbo outback
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Dec 7, 2019 19:25
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Yep, the EZ is sadly gone. The new torque engine is the 2.4 turbo from the Ascent.
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Dec 7, 2019 22:27
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Ah, makes sense. Side note: Each time I see an Ascent on the road the same thing goes through my mind as when I see an orange crosstrek: I can’t believe someone bought that. The ascent looks like a forester with a gland disorder
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Dec 7, 2019 22:45
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tetrapyloctomy posted:They only did that because they retired the H6 from the higher-trim Outback. Better fleet economy that way, at the expense of reliability. I'm not sure the H6 is actually more reliable, not with the way they now having spectaclar headgasket deaths. The issue to me seems to be that the H6 was designed and tested before temperatures started to really go nuts. The stock radiator is hilariously small for the engine and is marginal to begin with - add in some more serious heat and you have spot overheating issues around the back and bottom of the engine. Best part of that is the problems happen after the warranty expires so I see a lot of H6 powered cars getting scrapping in the forthcoming years.
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Dec 7, 2019 22:57
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Ok Mr. I live in 130F weather. I've never heard of EZs expiring due to heat outside of Australia. If the engine isn't adequately cooled that's squarely on Subaru's shoulders for not putting enough radiator in the car, not the fault of the engine.
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Dec 7, 2019 23:17
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luminalflux posted:Ah, makes sense. Side note: Each time I see an Ascent on the road the same thing goes through my mind as when I see an orange crosstrek: I can’t believe someone bought that. The ascent looks like a forester with a gland disorder What?? I would love to have one of the orange ones
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Dec 8, 2019 01:18
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:I'm not sure the H6 is actually more reliable, not with the way they now having spectaclar headgasket deaths. My H6 would constantly cook itself in Sydney traffic in summer, made for some wild trips back home on Pennant Hills road.
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Dec 8, 2019 01:23
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My H6 is fine with twisty low speed hillclimbs, engine temp is something I keep a careful eye on due to previous cars. I just leave it in 2nd gear and it does great.
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Dec 8, 2019 02:18
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Wrar posted:Ok Mr. I live in 130F weather. I've never heard of EZs expiring due to heat outside of Australia. If the engine isn't adequately cooled that's squarely on Subaru's shoulders for not putting enough radiator in the car, not the fault of the engine. I have. There's been one or two with the telltale signs in this thread even - So it's not entirely a hellscape issue but more the fact Subaru didn't give the EZ30 enough cooling capacity. Now wether a bigger radiator will fix it I'm not sure
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Dec 8, 2019 03:31
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What are the telltale signs you've seen in this tgread, out of interest?
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Dec 8, 2019 04:18
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Well that guy who lived in his van bought one that was already hosed so there's that. It could be that a new one is completely fine, but after 10 years without fresh coolant or a new waterpump or hoses, t-stat, radiator, it's not anymore.
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Dec 8, 2019 05:19
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