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Renaissance Robot posted:Lately I'm getting some kind of drivetrain slippage when I roll on too fast at high speed in top gear (eg for an overtake). Revs jump from 4k to 5k but the bike noticeably doesn't go faster (though if I keep the throttle on it does pick the speed up after a bit). Absolutely the clutch, unless you're the smoothest rider on earth you're going to notice the back tyre breaking away, and also it's far more likely to happen in lower gears. Your symptoms sound identical to when my Shiver broke a couple of clutch springs, but it could be as simple as contaminated oil I suppose?
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Nov 23, 2019 10:21
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Renaissance Robot posted:Lately I'm getting some kind of drivetrain slippage when I roll on too fast at high speed in top gear (eg for an overtake). Revs jump from 4k to 5k but the bike noticeably doesn't go faster (though if I keep the throttle on it does pick the speed up after a bit). Surely if it was your rear wheel the speedo would also go up proportional to the revs.
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Nov 23, 2019 10:26
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Azza Bamboo posted:Surely if it was your rear wheel the speedo would also go up proportional to the revs. Depends where the speedo takes its reading, some go off the front wheel.
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Nov 23, 2019 10:32
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Does the odo do this too? I can preserve certain bikes market value by wheelie-ing everywhere.
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Nov 23, 2019 10:41
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Also check your front sprocket inner teeth, if there's a bit of play and they start to slip it can feel like a clutch.
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Nov 23, 2019 11:06
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It is a back wheel speedo (specifically a hall effect sensor on the front sprocket) and yeah I did think the speedo should go up too if the rear wheel were spinning up. I did also recently change the oil; I'll double check the can later to make sure it didn't have any friction modifiers in it. I mean it shouldn't, it's the same brand I always buy, but best start with the easy stuff before I go prying the clutch cover off. Thanks for the answers.
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Nov 23, 2019 11:06
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If the rear wheel was slipping, you'd feel it in your butt. It feels like the rear end of the bike suddenly hit a patch of ice. It's probably your clutch
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Nov 23, 2019 17:01
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Before you dig into the clutch, loosen the cable to the point that the lever is sloppy and make sure the actuator arm on the engine case has absolutely all tension off it. Then go for a ride and try to make it happen again. It it doesn’t happen, then you can just adjust the cable and you’re good. Could be it has a tiny bit of extra tension and it’s finally catching up. If that doesn’t fix it, proceed to checking sprockets. If you narrow it down to absolutely clutch (sounds like it is anyway), might as well drop a new spring/plate/disc kit. Also when you get to that point, have a new gasket on hand and be prepared for a lovely job getting the old one off. Might not be, but might also take a day of scraping.
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Nov 23, 2019 17:44
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This weekend I purchased a full exhaust system (ixil sx1), one can of VHT paint (PJ1 Fast Black), and some exhaust paste. But I had a few questions. Can I paint the end can too? Am I ever going to be able to get it up to the 350*C needed to cure the paint (when it’s 0*C outside?) If I want to wrap the headers too, do I need to cure the base coat on the headers before wrapping, or can I just do everything at once (paint, wrap, seal, cure) while it’s off the bike, while still giving a good finish when unwrapped. Do I need to mask the bit where the can sits over the collector on the header? Any other tips?
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Nov 24, 2019 20:35
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Ok there's a few  things there.Firstly why do you need to paint a brand new exhaust? They are all stainless steel or titanium, it won't rust. Secondly, if you're dead set on painting the exhaust, using a spray can will give you garbage results and a finish that will fail after a few months. If you want colored pipes that look IRL like they do in your mind, you need to get them powder coated. Sprays are for car headers, the finish is always terrible even if you do a mint job. Thirdly, why would you want to paint AND wrap it? Makes no sense. Wraps are a poo poo idea anyway, the stuff just traps dirt and moisture so your bike ends up both looking and smelling like poo poo. They also accelerate the gently caress out of corrosion on the pipes, make mechanics angry and are just generally an awful trend that never should've caught on. So if you paint then wrap you're just wasting paint.
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Nov 25, 2019 00:41
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Slavvy posted:If you want colored pipes that look IRL like they do in your mind, you need to get them powder coated. Sprays are for car headers, the finish is always terrible even if you do a mint job. I tried to get a shop to powdercoat an exhaust shield for me once and the guy got super angry at me and told me powdercoat couldn't be used anywhere that had heat and that I was a moron for thinking so. 
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Nov 25, 2019 02:44
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he was right (about the heat part, at least, idk about the moron bit) powder-coating is a thermoplastic finish that is applied to the surface electrostatically as a powder (duh) and then baked in an oven to fuse it into a solid coat. it's very tough because it is literally a layer of plastic over the substrate but if you bring it up near the process temperature (around 180C) again, it will melt off. it might be okay for the muffler or a heat shield but i wouldn't risk it. definitely not appropriate for exhaust pipes or headers. there is a related process using a ceramic powder, which like ceramic pots undergoes a chemical change when heated that makes it heat-resistant. that one is suitable for any part of the exhaust system.
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Nov 25, 2019 02:52
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All I know is the powder coating place does headers  If 180C is the limit how can there be powder coated air cooled engines?
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Nov 25, 2019 04:38
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cerakote it 
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Nov 25, 2019 05:07
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Slavvy posted:All I know is the powder coating place does headers Presumably it's the ceramic kind. That or some combination of a special higher-temperature coating and designing the engine to not reach those temperatures Like, my CL350's air-cooled engine gets too hot to touch, but I haven't seen water sizzle off the fins which probably means that it's not more than 150C or so at those points. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Nov 25, 2019 |
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Nov 25, 2019 05:16
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Razzled posted:cerakote it came here to say this. if it sticks to AR barrels it'll stick to an exhaust.
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Nov 25, 2019 07:19
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Slavvy posted:Ok there's a few quote:Thirdly, why would you want to paint AND wrap it? Makes no sense. Wraps are a poo poo idea anyway, the stuff just traps dirt and moisture so your bike ends up both looking and smelling like poo poo. They also accelerate the gently caress out of corrosion on the pipes, make mechanics angry and are just generally an awful trend that never should've caught on. So if you paint then wrap you're just wasting paint.
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Nov 25, 2019 09:07
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Horse Clocks posted:To be honest, it’s not for functional reasons, purely aesthetic. An entirely adequate reason, but the result will most likely look worse than you want. I'd shop around for good looking aftermarket silencers instead.
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Nov 25, 2019 09:53
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Ola posted:An entirely adequate reason, but the result will most likely look worse than you want. I'd shop around for good looking aftermarket silencers instead. I’m wanting to paint the pipes of the new aftermarket exhaust system (the OEM xsr exhaust is a single unit and needs replacing entirely). The silencer is mostly black already. If I could make the silencer entirely black, that’d be a bonus. But it’s slung under the engine, if it’s not all black it’s not a huge deal.
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Nov 25, 2019 10:12
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Sagebrush posted:Presumably it's the ceramic kind. That or some combination of a special higher-temperature coating and designing the engine to not reach those temperatures Engines get much hotter than that routinely. All I can tell you is I can take pretty much anything to the local powder coating place, they themselves refer to it as powder coating, and the question of temperature has never come up. Wheels, cosmetics etc: almost any color Engine stuff: a few colours Exhaust: fewer still From that I assume they're using different stuff and the highest temp poo poo only comes in a few colours; pricing is based entirely on the labour side aka how difficult the piece is and how much prep they have to do. Never, ever been knocked back for taking exhaust bits there. I'll add that they usually don't mask off gasket surfaces unless specifically asked to (or it's super critical like a cylinder head or whatever), when I questioned this they said the coating layer is so thin it makes no difference whatsoever. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Nov 25, 2019 |
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Nov 25, 2019 18:37
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Has anyone bought from https://www.service-shop-repair-manual.com before? Both Kawasaki and Partzilla are out of stock for the service manual on a specific bike, and ebay only has one hit which is like $160+ after shipping and import. Googling for PDF versions of this SM only leads to prior year models which may or may not be useful for certain things. Clymer doesn't have a manual for this model either. I gather from the photos that what this site sells are just printed out copies of the OEM SM which, morality aside, I'm okay with as long as the material is there. e: After some googling it looks like they have some positive feedback from a smattering of random other motorcycle forum members so I might give it a shot for fifty bucks. I tried to give you money, Kawasaki. I really tried v  v
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 13:31 on Nov 26, 2019 |
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Nov 26, 2019 13:27
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Martytoof posted:Has anyone bought from https://www.service-shop-repair-manual.com before? Both Kawasaki and Partzilla are out of stock for the service manual on a specific bike, and ebay only has one hit which is like $160+ after shipping and import. Googling for PDF versions of this SM only leads to prior year models which may or may not be useful for certain things. Clymer doesn't have a manual for this model either. This for your ninja 250? What year? I can check what I have when I get home
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Nov 26, 2019 19:54
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mewse posted:This for your ninja 250? What year? I can check what I have when I get home Nah, I have all the 250 manuals. This is for an '18 650. Thanks though! some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Nov 26, 2019 |
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Nov 26, 2019 20:00
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Martytoof posted:Has anyone bought from https://www.service-shop-repair-manual.com before? Both Kawasaki and Partzilla are out of stock for the service manual on a specific bike, and ebay only has one hit which is like $160+ after shipping and import. Googling for PDF versions of this SM only leads to prior year models which may or may not be useful for certain things. Clymer doesn't have a manual for this model either. Here.
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Nov 27, 2019 17:52
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Ah yeah I think that's the one I found earlier and dismissed as too expensive, though I now realize that Partzilla would have cost same after shipping if they weren't out of stock. Cheers!
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Nov 27, 2019 20:02
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$95 seems to be the basic price for most FSMs. Because of that, owner group forums will often host the pdf on the site for members' access only.
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Nov 27, 2019 20:31
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Question for people with experience with antique electrics: If you have a bike with an excited-coil type generator (like for example a 76 KZ400), where it needs current in from a regulator, if you have no battery on such a bike it will simply do nothing even if you try to bump start it or kick start it, right? Since the generator needs an input current initially, before it can output any, so the coils won't be charged? So if you straight up have no battery on the terminals, you're pretty much dead in the water? DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Dec 7, 2019 |
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Dec 7, 2019 05:16
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Mirconium posted:Question for people with experience with antique electrics: My understanding is that it will start if there's some residual magnetism remaining, but it can lose it if it sits for a long time. You can flash them but yeah, you need a battery
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Dec 7, 2019 18:09
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So my bike is making a funny noise. At around 80kph and up I get some kind of rubbing noise from somewhere on the bike, not a very high pitched squealing or anything like that. It seems to be throttle dependent (quietens down when I let off, but doesn't happen at similar rpms in lower gears so I figure probably nothing in the engine) . I can't for the life of me figure out what it is. I've just replaced the chain and sprockets (noise was there before, but it needed to be done anyway). All I can think of that's left is the brakes, and wheel bearings/seals. I don't suspect the brakes as braking doesn't change anything and the rear bearings all seemed to be in good condition as I was replacing the chain. 2009 zx6r. Anyone got any suggestions for what I should be looking at next?
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Dec 12, 2019 23:11
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tzam posted:So my bike is making a funny noise. At around 80kph and up I get some kind of rubbing noise from somewhere on the bike, not a very high pitched squealing or anything like that. It seems to be throttle dependent (quietens down when I let off, but doesn't happen at similar rpms in lower gears so I figure probably nothing in the engine) . I can't for the life of me figure out what it is. I've just replaced the chain and sprockets (noise was there before, but it needed to be done anyway). All I can think of that's left is the brakes, and wheel bearings/seals. I don't suspect the brakes as braking doesn't change anything and the rear bearings all seemed to be in good condition as I was replacing the chain. 2009 zx6r. Chain rubbing on something perhaps? At higher speeds it gets thrown out more, when you let off and engine brake, the slack moves from the bottom to the top.
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Dec 12, 2019 23:20
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tzam posted:So my bike is making a funny noise. At around 80kph and up I get some kind of rubbing noise from somewhere on the bike, not a very high pitched squealing or anything like that. It seems to be throttle dependent (quietens down when I let off, but doesn't happen at similar rpms in lower gears so I figure probably nothing in the engine) . I can't for the life of me figure out what it is. I've just replaced the chain and sprockets (noise was there before, but it needed to be done anyway). All I can think of that's left is the brakes, and wheel bearings/seals. I don't suspect the brakes as braking doesn't change anything and the rear bearings all seemed to be in good condition as I was replacing the chain. 2009 zx6r. Tyre pressures, guard rubbing or you hosed up the chain tension. Or it's just a noise that bike makes, can be hard to tell sometimes. Try running it up to speed on a stand and see if it does it then, it might be something that only rubs with weight on the bike though. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Dec 13, 2019 |
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Dec 13, 2019 00:22
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Thanks for the suggestions. Checked tyre pressures, they're fine. No evidence of the chain rubbing on anything except the chain guide. Looks a little odd here-the wear is on the side of the little vertical element that the rollers are supposed to roll on, but I checked the chain alignment against the rear sprocket and it looks dead straight. I haven't been able to get it up to speed on the stand as I live in an apartment block and any sort of maintenance or repair is explicitly banned in the lease and I've already managed to piss off a few neighbours. Off to the mechanics after Christmas I suppose. Unless I have really screwed up the chain tension - this may be a silly question but to I need to tension the top run of chain when I measure the slack on the bottom? Depending on whether it has last rolled back or forwards, there can be a lot of slack in the top run, or none whatsoever. tzam fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Dec 17, 2019 |
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Dec 17, 2019 22:31
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Unless I'm misunderstanding, you have to tension the chain with the back wheel off the ground, attempting to do it with the rear wheel on the ground just leads to loving it up. You spin the rear wheel slowly, grab the bottom run of the chain near the middle and wiggle it up and down as you rotate. Find the spot where you have the least wiggle slack, being a new chain and sprockets it should theoretically not have one. The wiggle distance from top to bottom is your chain tension, do it to the specs but it doesn't need to be millimeter perfect, a bit too loose is better than a bit too tight and eventually you'll just do it by eye and feel. The top run is neither here nor there, if it's in neutral and off the ground the back wheel should turn with no real resistance so you'll get the full slack on the bottom. You need to pull it with your hand, hovering awkwardly with a ruler trying not to get your fingers dirty won't work.
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Dec 18, 2019 02:21
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The left grip unit on my s1000xr is a bit loose. I looked at the repair manual and all it said was this: How do I make my baby tight again?
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Dec 28, 2019 22:20
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pokie posted:The left grip unit on my s1000xr is a bit loose. I looked at the repair manual and all it said was this: The rubber grip, or the handlebar controls? If it's the grip just replace it. For the handlebar controls they are probably held together with some screws you can tighten up
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Dec 28, 2019 22:27
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Safety wire.
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Dec 28, 2019 22:28
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Grip glue or Slavvy posted:Safety wire. Or like a screwdriver if you mean the control unit but honestly Pokie I ascribe a higher level of intelligence to you.
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Dec 29, 2019 00:12
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The whole control unit. I couldn't find a screw holding it on, and the manual is detailed enough that I would expect it to mention it. How does safety wire work for something like this? I have never used it.
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Dec 29, 2019 00:44
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Oh poo poo, you guys are right, there is a screw. The loving manual just doesn't mention it anywhere it's talking about handlebars though, because reasons :|. Honestly, I hate the BMW manual electronic format. Just give me a loving pdf.
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Dec 29, 2019 00:57
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BMW are good that way, they also like having part numbers for parts that don't appear in the fiche and vice versa.
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Dec 29, 2019 01:12
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