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eddiewalker posted:Chill a little. Balanced-to-unbalanced is literally just disregarding the upside-down signal. You have a perfectly good unbalanced line at that point, usable at any distances where unbalanced would be suitable. Totally. And this could be handled great with a TS to TS cable. TS to RCA just seems taboo to me. E; wow what a terrible page snipe. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Nov 12, 2019 |
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Nov 12, 2019 22:10
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What kind of weird superstition is that
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Nov 12, 2019 22:15
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Whatever you say, man, but I use this every day on jobs where noisefloor is measured rigorously, and I know my laptop is clean below -100dB
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Nov 12, 2019 22:19
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Behringer A500
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Nov 12, 2019 22:28
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Flipperwaldt posted:What kind of weird superstition is that I don't know. It's weird and I'm dumb and it probably stems from this time that I killed the left channel of my dad's Pioneer receiver by trying to plug a guitar into it. In theory it should have been fine, In practice I used a TRS cable and shorted the thing out when I was holding the guitar and went to change the volume.  E: wow I have to say I'm actually surprised there aren't more desktop-sized amps with balanced inputs considering the recent surge in desktop hi-fi, but that all seems to be centered around ridiculous headphone amps. The Teac AX-501 (which I already own) seems to be just about it. Emotiva has the Stealth PA-1, but I'd need two and that would more than double what I'm willing to spend. I mean there's also the Chord Ttoby but that's like $4000... I wish I had thought about this BEFORE I placed an order with Tadya Electronics. I could have just picked up a chassis and a couple of female XLR jacks and built an amp with a pair of icepower modules I've got lying around. Edit number 16: I found a few eBay options. Mostly Pro-installation types of things you'd see driving in ceiling speakers / PA's: Stewart Audio PA-50 & AV25-2 QSC AUDIO SPA2-60 Decent form factor and balanced inputs. Everything I need and nothing I don't! GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Nov 13, 2019 |
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Nov 12, 2019 22:38
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alnilam posted:Is it definitely a steam radiator and not hot water? Do you know that it releases steam/moisture? It doesn't, maybe I'm just referring to it incorrectly? Old rear end self-contained hunk of metal that puts off heat and no moisture. On that note, anyone have recommendations for a pair of wall-mountable surrounds <150$ish? Dont really want to splurge given the chance the mild heat does matter, and my front bookshelfs are a tad big for the task (Elac b6.2s) so no upgrades in store. Do I really have anything to look out for besides making sure they're front-ported? Polk omw3s seem convenient for the situation, even if the plastics a little ugly.
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Nov 15, 2019 20:25
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gangnam reference posted:It doesn't, maybe I'm just referring to it incorrectly? Old rear end self-contained hunk of metal that puts off heat and no moisture. I’ve got OWM3s corner-mounted in my living room and they’re great for what they are. Unintrusive, flexible to mount, sound fine for rears. I actually have a white pair I bought and never installed I’d cut you a deal on.
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Nov 15, 2019 20:34
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Re: radiators. Only the kind that have a little vent valve sticking out of the side (commonly looks like a silver bullet, like this) put out any water at all, and even then normally very little, as the vent is meant to close long before a lot of steam comes out, but they can go bad. If no vent, then it is an entirely sealed system and you can put anything you want on top with impunity, unless just the heat could harm it. Speakers will be just fine, though a caveat: I'm not sure whether the expansion/contraction would be a problem. I'm pretty sure not but it may depend on the speaker.
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Nov 15, 2019 20:49
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I wish I had thought about this BEFORE I placed an order with Tadya Electronics. I could have just picked up a chassis and a couple of female XLR jacks and built an amp with a pair of icepower modules I've got lying around. Just make sure those aren't 70V amps. An alternative would be the Crown D75a...they're really cheap on eBay. They're discontinued but are like, 10000% reliable.
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Nov 15, 2019 23:23
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Maybe is a symptom of bouncing on the road, but those old Crown d-series things have a nasty habit of losing a channel mid-use and requiring a firm smack on the faceplate to bring it back up.
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Nov 15, 2019 23:49
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TheWevel posted:Just make sure those aren't 70V amps. An alternative would be the Crown D75a...they're really cheap on eBay. They're discontinued but are like, 10000% reliable. I have no plans to use any of it so I gave it to a friend. I wound up going with the QSC SPA2-60 because it was only $150 brand new in box and much better looking on a desk than the Stewart, despite having those stupid Phoenix connectors.
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Nov 16, 2019 00:21
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Here's my current setup: in my home office, I have two Echo Dots about twenty feet apart, equidistant from my desk. I listen to music/podcasts via the Dots' Stereo Pair feature. For the most part, this is great; I get true, wide stereo sound, I don't have any annoying wires running across the room, I can move the speakers with no worries and they take up very little space. The main drawback is the sound quality of these Dots falls apart if the volume goes above 50% and they have almost no bass. The other drawback is that I'm limited to whatever services support Stereo Pair. I want to beef up the sound I get from this setup with as little frustration as possible. I'm wondering if it would be better to buy two individual speakers to use as external speakers for the Dots or if there's a pair of truly wireless bluetooth speakers I could buy to straight up replace the Dots. From a quick glance on Amazon, there are lots of "wireless bluetooth speakers," but most of them require at least one wire to connect both speakers together. Does anybody make what I'm looking for? Any advice is appreciated.
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Nov 17, 2019 17:31
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Um, use two Echos?
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Nov 17, 2019 19:32
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I'm trying to make movie nights at my son's school not be an a/v disaster. The first problem is that the audio rack for the cafeteria is like 75' from where you would have the projector and there's no snake or any way to remotely interface with the mixer. Is there a cheap way to send the audio wirelessly to the mixing board? It's a standard Mackie thing so I presume it has tape inputs on the back.
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Nov 17, 2019 20:27
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These reach about 10 feet with RCA IN/OUT, can't speak for long range. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-wave-link-wls-system-24-ghz-full-range-wireless-audio-transmitter-receiver-s--300-594
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Nov 17, 2019 20:42
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poo poo POST MALONE posted:I'm trying to make movie nights at my son's school not be an a/v disaster. Can you play the movie off a computer that can Airplay/Chromecast the audio? I know that AirPlay automatically compensates for latency, and I assume Google’s stuff does too. There’s probably bonus uses for going with something standard and easy.
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Nov 17, 2019 20:54
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The only problem is that I don't know what kind of WiFi availability this school has and from what I've seen, getting access isn't simple. Chromecast and airplay only works on WiFi right?
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Nov 17, 2019 23:26
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poo poo POST MALONE posted:I'm trying to make movie nights at my son's school not be an a/v disaster. Because you can get a 1/8th to split XLR cable from Amazon for like $15. Toss 4 50' XLRs to it and you're set once you gaff it down. Weird that they don't have a breakout panel somewhere near by though.
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Nov 18, 2019 01:37
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The source of the movie is open. The guy running it last time did the following: Video: old iBook > VGA > projector Audio: 1/8" stereo out > small tower speaker > wireless lav mic hanging in front of it > PA 
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Nov 18, 2019 01:45
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eddiewalker posted:Can you play the movie off a computer that can Airplay/Chromecast the audio? I know that AirPlay automatically compensates for latency, and I assume Google’s stuff does too. Chromecast does not compensate for latency in this case. For whatever reason, Google only supports synchronization for audio. You can cast audio+video to a single Chromecast and it'll play in sync, you can cast audio alone to any number of cast devices (other than CCv1) and it'll play in sync, but there is no way to play video from one device and have audio play synced from others. The closest you can get is playing a video on a PC while casting audio from the PC to another device or multi-device group. The audio will be synced among the devices it's playing on but will be very obviously delayed from the video.
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Nov 18, 2019 01:52
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wolrah posted:Chromecast does not compensate for latency in this case. Lame. I AirPlay just the audio from videos all the time and the lips are always right. I figured watching stuff on a phone/tablet with the sound on bigger speakers is a common enough use that Chromecast would take care of it too.
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Nov 18, 2019 02:13
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poo poo POST MALONE posted:Audio: 1/8" stereo out > small tower speaker > wireless lav mic hanging in front of it > PA  Now that I think of it you probably could get away with 1/8 to 1/4 hooked into a wireless Dbox style instrument pickup if you wanted to be creative. I think short of getting a portable PA system with a 1/8 input, cabling it will give you the least headaches.
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Nov 18, 2019 04:03
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A Lone Girl Flier posted:And make sure the tv isn't plugged into the phono input on the receiver. Use AUX. Hey, a few days ago I posted about how hooking an old receiver and speakers up to my TV was giving me issues. This ended up being the problem, and I wanted to thank you guys for the suggestions. I also ordered a digital to analog converter, so we'll see if that improves things at all. Thanks a lot guys!
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Nov 18, 2019 04:49
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eddiewalker posted:Lame. I AirPlay just the audio from videos all the time and the lips are always right. Until a year or so ago multi-room audio didn't even work at all on the video units.
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Nov 18, 2019 19:48
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poo poo POST MALONE posted:The source of the movie is open. The guy running it last time did the following: I would not think that would sound good.
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Nov 19, 2019 00:23
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I mean, yeah, it sounded like absolute garbage. I left halfway through because I didn't want other parents thinking I was responsible for it. 5-10 year old kids didn't give a gently caress though. They just wanted to watch the LEGO movie.
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Nov 19, 2019 03:04
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The amps shouldn't be a million miles from the PA, at least not in a non-lovely install. If their DSP is in the same rack then a small mixer into that would achieve a far better result than that bullshit.
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Nov 19, 2019 11:51
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Hey everyone. I want to replace the woofer (or is it driver? or a tweeter? the thing that makes sound inside the speaker) on one of my home theater's (it's a Logitech Z680 ) speakers since it sounds weird. I tried opening it up but I can't see anything wrong with it, the rubber seal thingy looks fine, and I tried air can cleaning it but I still get the weird sound in certain frequencies. I tried hooking one of the other speakers to the centre channel and it sounds fine, so it's 100% the speaker. I tried looking for a replacement woofer (driver?), but I don't quite understand what to look for. I know it's a 3" and 8 ohm because it says it right there, but I'm not sure about the wattage. the manual says the centre channel is 69 nice Watts RMS, but I've seen some specs that say it's 15W? This was the recommended replacement for a blown speaker in other page I found (this one says 12-25 W). So... what's the relation between an amp's output and a speaker's 'rating'? -I'm assuming those 69rms are what the amp is outputting in that channel- I thought it was a 1-to-1 thing? Like, if it outputs 69rms I need a 69W speaker? But that's rms, and rms to watt is apparently 0.707, so that would make it 100W? But then what are those 15W specs I keep seeing when people are discussing these speakers? What does the W actually mean on a speaker? Sorry if I'm not making much sense, not used to a of of the English terminology for this stuff.
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Nov 19, 2019 15:18
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Logitech doesn't really use industry standard parts, I think your only real option is to reach out to them, even if you find a driver with similar specs it'll probably sound different or be a slightly different size. Getting a replacement speaker is probably your best bet. A 3" woofer basically is a tweeter anyway [joking]
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Nov 19, 2019 17:28
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A bit impossible, I'm afraid; I'm not in the states and there's no Logitech representative here, and even if they somehow still had replacement parts for that (which I doubt, I think the z680 hasn't been produced in a while) and for some reason they had one and I managed to get it shipped here, it'll probably get stolen in customs. 
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Nov 19, 2019 17:58
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Go on parts-express.com, find something that looks close and try it out. I think that's your best bet. It shouldn't cost more than like $10 and it'll probably be decent. e: or your country's equivalent to parts express
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Nov 19, 2019 18:04
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taqueso posted:Go on parts-express.com, find something that looks close and try it out. I think that's your best bet. It shouldn't cost more than like $10 and it'll probably be decent. Yeah, was my original plan, but I'm still not sure about the wattage for the replacement tweeter. Should I go for 15? Not clear on the relationship between the amp output and the tweeter's.
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Nov 19, 2019 18:26
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Edmond Dantes posted:Yeah, was my original plan, but I'm still not sure about the wattage for the replacement tweeter. Should I go for 15? Not clear on the relationship between the amp output and the tweeter's. The speaker is rated for a maximum wattage, but that is a pretty fuzzy number because it depends on the signal frequencies and stuff. The speaker could fail due to too much current (heats the wires in the coil and eventually melts the insulation or something else bad) which is equivalent to going way over wattage. It is also bad if you play too loud and physically hit the end of travel, which can happen much earlier than smoking the coil, especially at low frequencies. It is not at all uncommon to have an amp that can overpower the speakers if you turn it up too much. Also, if there is a crossover (circuit that splits the signal between tweeter and woofer) involved that will reduce the wattage going to the driver. I'm meandering towards 'don't worry about the wattage rating too much unless it is really low'. The speaker also has an efficiency parameter, something like 90dB/W (range is something like 85-105). This is how loud it will be given a certain amount of power. You would like this value to be similar to the old driver so that it is approximately the right volume compared to the tweeter and other stereo channel.
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Nov 19, 2019 18:40
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Olympic Mathlete posted:The amps shouldn't be a million miles from the PA, at least not in a non-lovely install. If their DSP is in the same rack then a small mixer into that would achieve a far better result than that bullshit.
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Nov 19, 2019 21:38
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Edmond Dantes posted:Hey everyone. Go on eBay and find a single speaker from a Logitech Z680 setup. Most sellers will ship internationally if you ask them even if they don't list it.
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Nov 20, 2019 08:33
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evobatman posted:Go on eBay and find a single speaker from a Logitech Z680 setup. Most sellers will ship internationally if you ask them even if they don't list it. The correct answer, and one I'm embarrassed to not have thought of immediately. Dammit, Dave, my mind is going. 
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Nov 21, 2019 06:11
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Not sure if this is the correct thread. Looking for a Soundbar recommendation for my OLED55B6P (3-years old). Planning to add a FireTV stick and currently have PS4 (original) connected via HDMI. Would like to stream music to it via Google Home (although I guess I could do that via the FireTV).
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Nov 27, 2019 02:05
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Hey, if this is the right thread, are there any nice cheap little dongles like the Chromecast Audio but with the Spotify Connect protocol in it on account of the Chromecast Audio in Spotify sucking arse and breaking all the time?
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Nov 28, 2019 06:51
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This vaguely has to do with audio but here goes: Looking to buy my mom in the US the ENEBY 20 from Ikea in Sweden - and again she primarily lives in the US - would it be possible to swap the power supply from EU AC in one in the US? The power specifications are identical (though the TÜV certs looking different), as are all the other specifications, so it seems like it would work (barring IKEA not selling me the part). I have a gift card to Ikea Sweden which is why I’m not buying it in the US. Also I know I could get her a better set up, but the style of the ENEBY is what will work best for her. E: ikeas website didn’t mention that the cord is already built into the product, meaning my question is moot. Hope my mom likes a weird looking speaker teen witch fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Dec 1, 2019 |
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Dec 1, 2019 16:55
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MikeJF posted:Hey, if this is the right thread, are there any nice cheap little dongles like the Chromecast Audio but with the Spotify Connect protocol in it on account of the Chromecast Audio in Spotify sucking arse and breaking all the time? Actually came here to ask almost the same question. I've got a pair of Audioengine A5+ speakers collecting dust I want to smart-ify. The Sonos Port is stupid expensive, Chromecast has always bugged out on me and left me without immediate control, and Bluetooth sucks. Amazon's Echo Input looks like it's basically exactly what I want, but I don't want to add another robot to the ecosystem if I don't have to when I've already got a bunch of poo poo from the Google-verse.
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