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That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

The manual for the one I bought recently specifically called out not using it for long periods, due to the vibrations causing damage to your hands/wrists.

Tell that to my foreman

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Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Almost 15 years since I worked there, and it looks like they’re still slicin’ folks up!

:airquote: :argh: :bang: :nono: :suicide:

DIY> Woodworking-It's the fool with the tool who makes the move uncool not the tool, ya fool!

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

That Works posted:

Tell that to my foreman

you can ask OSHA to tell that to your foreman, maybe

https://www.osha.gov/dts/osta/otm/otm_ii/otm_ii_3.html#VibrationMonitors
https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/woodworking/assembly_vibration.html

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Nov 28, 2019

McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

That Works posted:

I was a welders helper in the oilfield in the gulf of mexico. Pretty much 90% of the work I did was using a huge rear end angle grinder with either a cutting disk or a wire wheel. You needed to use a 2 hand grip and these were big high powered 30-40lb grinders.

I saw one person get a medivac flight after taking a grinding wheel to the gut and I've still got a few scars on my forearms from a wire wheel getting away from me. You learn how to operate them as safely as you can but it gets dicey when you're sweating, and your hands go numb after using one for a few hours etc.

We had a boiler maker get airlifted after a 9 inch grinder wheel exploded into his shoulder after rebound off the workpiece. It was about 2 inches off hitting his carotid iirc

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy



Eh it was 20 years ago

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


I've got a normal lil angle grinder and I still think it's a menace. I've gotten lucky after a couple of screwups, one where a cut off disc bound in some wood and exploded, with the shards embedding themselves in the wood, and another where I was cutting steel and didn't think through the spin direction and sprayed sparks in my face (I was wearing eye protection).

I still see people using them with no guard and one handed, it makes me worrisome.

McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

Chopped wood theft

It's some kind of Australian native, possibly eucalyptus of some sort. Gorgeous tone but it'll need seasoning

timber theft

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I use the angle grinder one handed all the time, I do have the guards on though. I feel I get more control one handed, with my 125mm models anyway.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



McSpergin posted:

Chopped wood theft

It's some kind of Australian native, possibly eucalyptus of some sort. Gorgeous tone but it'll need seasoning

timber theft

I think even the sapwood is interesting! You'll want to mill it, obv.

keep it down up there!
Jun 22, 2006

How's it goin' eh?

Angle grinders can be pretty scary. Check out Stumpy Nubs recent video about some serious damage they can cause. Especially if you are using it for carving like he was. Guy almost lost 4 fingers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7xWHEWov8M

He has a followup video showing a guy who ended having one climb up into his neck.

Granted normal use is safer than what they were doing, and that chainsaw disc is pretty menacing, they can still pretty easily hurt you even with proper safety gear.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

His Divine Shadow posted:

I use the angle grinder one handed all the time, I do have the guards on though. I feel I get more control one handed, with my 125mm models anyway.

One handed for a second... sure. Not the safest but whatever I do it, I try not to. More control one handed? Absolutley not

McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

Mr. Mambold posted:

I think even the sapwood is interesting! You'll want to mill it, obv.

I've done some further investigation and it's a gum of some sort, either blue or grey gum. It can't be red gum because I've used it and it's v distinctive. In this pic,there's a few pieces. Third in from the top is red gum:


McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

Also yeah, I was thinking of seasoning it and breaking it down into slabs. There was a gorgeous crotch piece there but it was way too big for my car :(

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

McSpergin posted:

Also yeah, I was thinking of seasoning it and breaking it down into slabs. There was a gorgeous crotch piece there but it was way too big for my car :(

Woodworking Thread: A Gorgeous Crotch Piece

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

McSpergin posted:

There was a gorgeous crotch piece there but it was way too big for my car :(

Debatable. I believe in you!

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
Woodworking: Gorgeous crotch pieces

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

One handed for a second... sure. Not the safest but whatever I do it, I try not to. More control one handed? Absolutley not

Yes absolutely, you develop more control over the cut that way, you have less "power" to hold it back if something goes wrong. But that's not the form of control I was referring to. I work almost exclusively with the thin 125mm slitting discs myself and they just don't have the power to grab very hard.

I've used angle grinders constantly for years and years now, I've sliced 6 feet of quarter inch steel to a scribed line and I did it one handed, when I started it was all two handed for me too and now it's 99% one handed cuts. If you check out people who are truly experienced and skilled with angle grinders like John Heisz you'll see he uses it one handed too. Two hands is the safe way for beginners and everyday DIY'ers who are not used to the angle grinder and when you use the bigger models like 230mm to roughly cut up stock, or you are doing bulk removal with a thicker wheel, but I mostly use it to slice up sheet metal (up to 1/4) and cut mitres in steel tubing and the like.

But if you need to cut something to a line really precisely and if you use it often enough, you'll find yourself transitioning to one handed use, eventually you've forgotten where you put the screw on grip....

His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Nov 29, 2019

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


keep it down up there! posted:

Angle grinders can be pretty scary. Check out Stumpy Nubs recent video about some serious damage they can cause. Especially if you are using it for carving like he was. Guy almost lost 4 fingers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7xWHEWov8M

He has a followup video showing a guy who ended having one climb up into his neck.

Granted normal use is safer than what they were doing, and that chainsaw disc is pretty menacing, they can still pretty easily hurt you even with proper safety gear.

I don't expect people to read every post in a thread but you could've checked whether the angle grinder danger chat in a woodworking thread was spawned by a video about a woodworker injuring themselves with an angle grinder, all of one page ago.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


His Divine Shadow posted:

Yes absolutely, you develop more control over the cut that way, you have less "power" to hold it back if something goes wrong. But that's not the form of control I was referring to. I work almost exclusively with the thin 125mm slitting discs myself and they just don't have the power to grab very hard.

I've used angle grinders constantly for years and years now, I've sliced 6 feet of quarter inch steel to a scribed line and I did it one handed, when I started it was all two handed for me too and now it's 99% one handed cuts. If you check out people who are truly experienced and skilled with angle grinders like John Heisz you'll see he uses it one handed too. Two hands is the safe way for beginners and everyday DIY'ers who are not used to the angle grinder and when you use the bigger models like 230mm to roughly cut up stock, or you are doing bulk removal with a thicker wheel, but I mostly use it to slice up sheet metal (up to 1/4) and cut mitres in steel tubing and the like.

But if you need to cut something to a line really precisely and if you use it often enough, you'll find yourself transitioning to one handed use, eventually you've forgotten where you put the screw on grip....

You've got vastly more experience with them than me, but my journey so far has been "OK let's start 2 handed, oh hey the gyroscoping effect of the blade makes it quite stable in one hand, oh poo poo the moment something goes fucky the whole thing rotates on you"

McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Debatable. I believe in you!

Lol I wish

I have a VW Tiguan (smaller SUV) and this piece looked about as long as the car itself lol

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Jaded Burnout posted:

You've got vastly more experience with them than me, but my journey so far has been "OK let's start 2 handed, oh hey the gyroscoping effect of the blade makes it quite stable in one hand, oh poo poo the moment something goes fucky the whole thing rotates on you"

Yes that sounds familiar, I was very afraid of doing anything one handed the first couple of years.

It rarely happens to me nowadays when I do cutting with zip discs, but what usually happens is that it pulls the angle grinder forward and away from me. But usually the zip disc blade is so thin and low mass it doesn't really result in much more than a jerk of the arm. John Heisz had a good video on how he used the angle grinder to cut a piece of steel, it's how I do it as well. Though I'd ignore his spiel on the guard. He can be a real boomer sometimes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW0JztWAfng

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


His Divine Shadow posted:

Yes that sounds familiar, I was very afraid of doing anything one handed the first couple of years.

It rarely happens to me nowadays when I do cutting with zip discs, but what usually happens is that it pulls the angle grinder forward and away from me. But usually the zip disc blade is so thin and low mass it doesn't really result in much more than a jerk of the arm. John Heisz had a good video on how he used the angle grinder to cut a piece of steel, it's how I do it as well. Though I'd ignore his spiel on the guard. He can be a real boomer sometimes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW0JztWAfng

I mean, he is saying that he doesn't personally want to use a guard, not that other people should follow his example, and if he wants to do things his way that's certainly his right. I'm not sure I agree fully on the argument that the weight of the blade is the important factor in safety, since if the blade binds it effectively forms a structure where the power of the motor is now being used to rotate the body of it until such a time as you power it off, burn it out, drop it, or break the blade.

I've had that happen myself, as I mentioned, I was using that same kind of cut off disc in wood (first mistake) and either twisted it or bound it (second mistake) and that thing absolutely shattered. Shards of the disc embedded themselves deep in the wood I was cutting, and would've embedded themselves in me if I wasn't using the guard. There was hardly any left on the grinder afterwards.

That said, this was a problem I brought about through my own mistakes, so it's a risk calculation we all have to do based on our own confidence and experience levels. I personally don't have the confidence that I can react correctly to a bucking angle grinder without catching the disc on myself somehow, nor that I can reliably cut a variety of things without unknowingly creating a low-risk-but-some-risk situation.

The fact that using gloves with rotating tools is also contraindicated adds to the risk, combined with my livelihood being based to a degree on manual dexterity.

Feenix
Mar 14, 2003
Sorry, guy.
I have a little walnut strip plate I glued up...
I took 4 little nubs I cut and clap “face-glued” them to the bottom as “feet”. Should I drill and counter sink up from the bottom?
Overkill? I’m afraid a lateral knock might shear it off.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
What direction is the grain in all this? It's not clear from your description.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
^^^^Yeah, if you glued the end grain then reinforce. If you glued face grain don't worry about it.

Feenix
Mar 14, 2003
Sorry, guy.

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

What direction is the grain in all this? It's not clear from your description.

I think like this?




Meow Meow Meow posted:

^^^^Yeah, if you glued the end grain then reinforce. If you glued face grain don't worry about it.


It’s face grain for the plate and the end grain on the feet nubs

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

I'd like to take a moment to talk about our lord and savior; hot glue

Painting small parts with a threaded hole, use a bolt as a handle, paint, and stick it down to some scrap to dry. I hadn't really used hot glue since I was a kid, but bought one on a whim like a year ago and it's actually ridiculously useful. I find a use for it on nearly every project, especially the weirder ones.


Also, super quick shop made bar gauges

I need to make a couple more with pointed ends.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Feenix posted:

I think like this?



It’s face grain for the plate and the end grain on the feet nubs

Next time maybe use a different color scheme than dark blue on black. :v:

Anyway, that arrangement isn't ideal because of the end grain on the feet, but. End-grain glue-ups aren't hopelessly weak (IIRC they're ~1/10th the strength of face-grain glue-ups), and there's very little leverage that can be applied in this case. How much force do you really expect them to experience? It's probably fine to leave them with just the glue. Especially when you consider that if you screw them too hardovertighten the screws you might well split the feet.

Feenix
Mar 14, 2003
Sorry, guy.

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Next time maybe use a different color scheme than dark blue on black. :v:

Anyway, that arrangement isn't ideal because of the end grain on the feet, but. End-grain glue-ups aren't hopelessly weak (IIRC they're ~1/10th the strength of face-grain glue-ups), and there's very little leverage that can be applied in this case. How much force do you really expect them to experience? It's probably fine to leave them with just the glue. Especially when you consider that if you screw them too hardovertighten the screws you might well split the feet.

Sorry about the color/drawing.

So I’m not worried about much abuse but I can see a situation where I’m pulling it out or putting it away to use it, it gets knocked on a foot and pops off. You don’t think predrilling and carefully hand-screwing some tiny S S screws is worth it?

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
That really depends on what your time is worth, doesn't it? You can always screw it later if a foot does pop off. Maybe screw two, leave the other two as-is, and collect stats on how it fares. :v:

Feenix
Mar 14, 2003
Sorry, guy.
Thanks. Sorry I didn’t mean to belabor a simple point, I guess I was just wondering how likely you thought a drilling/screwing split might be.
I don’t mind the labor.

Thanks for all the advice! :)

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



McSpergin posted:

Lol I wish

I have a VW Tiguan (smaller SUV) and this piece looked about as long as the car itself lol

Rent a trailer, dude. You got to get serious about crotchwood.

also

McSpergin posted:

Also yeah, I was thinking of seasoning it and breaking it down into slabs. There was a gorgeous crotch piece there but it was way too big for my car :(

You want to break it down first, then season, ime. Otherwise, ?????

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it

Hypnolobster posted:

I'd like to take a moment to talk about our lord and savior; hot glue

Painting small parts with a threaded hole, use a bolt as a handle, paint, and stick it down to some scrap to dry. I hadn't really used hot glue since I was a kid, but bought one on a whim like a year ago and it's actually ridiculously useful. I find a use for it on nearly every project, especially the weirder ones.


Also, super quick shop made bar gauges

I need to make a couple more with pointed ends.

Hot glue is amazingly useful for temporary hold downs. Strong enough to hold wood to wood for turning. Also if you do any Resin pours its a "water tight" sealer for molds or dams. I have 3 hot glue guns and I am debating a battery powered one too.

Dolphin
Dec 5, 2008

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
I want to make this table, but scaled down to 5'X3'.





It's a Christmas present. I'm pretty sure I know how I'm going to do the large bridle joints, basically mark them up, drill out and then clean up with a flush trim bit and hand cut the tenons.

What I'm concerned about is wobbling. The family I'm giving it to has a lot of kids of all ages that do a lot of table leaning and other shenanigans. I'm thinking the crossbeam is going to be 3"x5" but I'm worried that over time a lot of rocking back and forth will round the joint and cause the table to wobble along the long axis. Is this a legitimate concern? Does anyone have any suggestions about how to make sure this table is rock solid, other than making sure the joints are tight?

One tweak I was thinking of was adding a second cross beam at the top with a slightly wider bridle joint like this:


But considering the top is already pegged I didn't know if this would actually add any appreciable strength to the design.

Dolphin fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Nov 29, 2019

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Dolphin posted:

I want to make this table, but scaled down to 5'X3'.





It's a Christmas present. I'm pretty sure I know how I'm going to do the large bridle joints, basically mark them up, drill out and then clean up with a flush trim bit and hand cut the tenons.

What I'm concerned about is wobbling. The family I'm giving it to has a lot of kids of all ages that do a lot of table leaning and other shenanigans. I'm thinking the crossbeam is going to be 3"x5" but I'm worried that over time a lot of rocking back and forth will round the joint and cause the table to wobble along the long axis. Is this a legitimate concern? Does anyone have any suggestions about how to make sure this table is rock solid, other than making sure the joints are tight?

That's a serious outlay of $ for walnut, friend. I'd think those dowel pins run proud would also be point of failure.....I think I'd double the # of them, maybe even triple. I'd be slightly worried the cheeks of that beam might shear off from a good jolt, but the one here is pretty massive. But, yeah 20 years down the line, the stretcher beam may also be worn and those dowels broken off.

edit- I think making it shorter as you propose will strengthen it too.

Dolphin
Dec 5, 2008

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Mr. Mambold posted:

That's a serious outlay of $ for walnut, friend. I'd think those dowel pins run proud would also be point of failure.....I think I'd double the # of them, maybe even triple. I'd be slightly worried the cheeks of that beam might shear off from a good jolt, but the one here is pretty massive. But, yeah 20 years down the line, the stretcher beam may also be worn and those dowels broken off.

edit- I think making it shorter as you propose will strengthen it too.
I get it for $4/bf but yeah it's expensive. I'm considering maple for the legs and walnut for crossbeam and top so that'll save some cash.

I was thinking instead of dowels I'd go with 2 mortise and tenons for each leg, a friend of mine just did a table like that and it seems like a solid way to attach the top.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
I just finished this box I've been working on for a couple months. It's a Christmas gift for my wife to hold some of her watches and bracelets, I bought the watch pillows off ebay. The top burl is camphor with an abalone shell inlay bordering it. I'm not sure the other exterior wood, my guess was kingwood when I posted it unfinished a while back, any other guesses? The parquetry in the lid is mahogany, sycamore and east indian rosewood. The interior is all walnut.









I'll take some real nice photos after christmas and post them, but these will do for now.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
You could do pegged through tenons; if that loosened over time you could just replace the peg with a thicker one, I think.

Meow Meow Meow posted:

I just finished this box I've been working on for a couple months. It's a Christmas gift for my wife to hold some of her watches and bracelets, I bought the watch pillows off ebay. The top burl is camphor with an abalone shell inlay bordering it. I'm not sure the other exterior wood, my guess was kingwood when I posted it unfinished a while back, any other guesses? The parquetry in the lid is mahogany, sycamore and east indian rosewood. The interior is all walnut.




Gorgeous work, that's some beautiful grain and clean inlay work.

Feenix
Mar 14, 2003
Sorry, guy.
Gorgeous, Meowx3!

You should be proud!

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Dolphin
Dec 5, 2008

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Meow Meow Meow posted:

I just finished this box I've been working on for a couple months. It's a Christmas gift for my wife to hold some of her watches and bracelets, I bought the watch pillows off ebay. The top burl is camphor with an abalone shell inlay bordering it. I'm not sure the other exterior wood, my guess was kingwood when I posted it unfinished a while back, any other guesses? The parquetry in the lid is mahogany, sycamore and east indian rosewood. The interior is all walnut.









I'll take some real nice photos after christmas and post them, but these will do for now.
drat dude

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