|
Yo muricans, where do you buy gw paint at a discount?
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 20:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 07:04 |
|
|
Miniature Market
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 22:00
|
|
|
the_seventh_cohort posted:If I buy a venerable dreadnought and normal dreadnought, will there be enough bits (legplates, sarcophagui, etc) left over to run the normal dread as venerable as well? "Venerable" is more a state of mind than anything else. If anybody tries to argue with you about it then they're a complete prick who should be shunned by your entire community.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 22:06
|
|
|
I've been playing this game on and off for eight years but you could put any roughly brick-shaped object with stubby legs on the table right in front of me, say it's some implacable bishop dread or whatnot, and I'd probably believe you.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 22:13
|
|
|
ThoraxTheImpaler posted:"Venerable" is more a state of mind than anything else. If anybody tries to argue with you about it then they're a complete prick who should be shunned by your entire community. My second VenDread is the old old pewter Bjorn dread that is kinda sorta Venerable!
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 22:15
|
|
|
It's a bummer the guy who did essentially all of the 30K Solar Auxilia left so there's probably not going to be some Veletaris++ Stormtrooper stand-ins done up like the command section dudes.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 22:26
|
|
|
ThoraxTheImpaler posted:"Venerable" is more a state of mind than anything else. If anybody tries to argue with you about it then they're a complete prick who should be shunned by your entire community. I mean what's the difference anyway? A better BS/WS? Do they have more wounds and weapon options too? I think I'd just make a venerable dreadnought because they look cooler and tell people it's a bog standard dread.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 22:35
|
|
|
Your venerable dread can be from whatever kit, but you should still bling it out. Purity seals, kill marks, some cool freehand, truck nutz, whatever
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 22:42
|
|
|
fashionly snort posted:Your venerable dread can be from whatever kit, but you should still bling it out. Purity seals, kill marks, some cool freehand, truck nutz, whatever To be fair you should always do that with everything. More bling is more better.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 22:51
|
|
|
Yeah, if you're not going ham with the baroque ornamentation then you're selling yourself short in this game.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 22:54
|
|
|
That's why the new sisters models are so bad rear end, they are like peak 40K. Flying cherubs, church pulpits with flamethrowers, the whole shebang
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 22:59
|
|
|
the_seventh_cohort posted:If I buy a venerable dreadnought and normal dreadnought, will there be enough bits (legplates, sarcophagui, etc) left over to run the normal dread as venerable as well? paint it up slightly fancier
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 23:00
|
|
|
Venerate the dread when you set it on the table.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 23:26
|
|
|
The venerable dread kit does come with multiple fancy sarcophagi and shoulders. I don’t remember if it comes with multiple leg plates.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 23:44
|
|
|
its very much the same school of having a sufficiently blinged out tac squad sergeant be your chapter master.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 23:47
|
|
|
Kitchner posted:I mean what's the difference anyway? A better BS/WS? Do they have more wounds and weapon options too? BS\WS 2+, 6+++ FNP. That's it. And if you're Iron Hands you already have 6+++, so that part is wasted. It's usually better to go cheap with a regular dread or go all the way with Forge World madness.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 00:25
|
|
|
Kitchner posted:I mean what's the difference anyway? A better BS/WS? Do they have more wounds and weapon options too? I did a bunch of spreadsheet math a couple of months ago trying to do some efficiency comparison on the dreadnoughts, and the effectiveness per point is roughly the same ignoring external modifiers like chapter tactics. Venerables are more reliable and harder to kill but more expensive - a slightly more elite version of the model, exactly as you'd expect.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 00:59
|
|
|
Character dreads and leviathans are where it's at.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 01:33
|
|
|
librarian dreads where's the redemptor lib dread gw where
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 01:42
|
|
|
I'm keen for a redemptor chaplain dread or maybe a full on guns redemptor. It's hard to get the classic cannon and fist dread operating well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 01:44
|
|
|
the_seventh_cohort posted:If I buy a venerable dreadnought and normal dreadnought, will there be enough bits (legplates, sarcophagui, etc) left over to run the normal dread as venerable as well? I made a Venerable dread out of a regular plastic dread with some extra ornamentation (a banner and a shield on his arm, as well as some extra purity seals). Let me see if I have the image uploaded somewhere. Edit: Found it 
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 02:02
|
|
|
I want a Jump Redemptor very bad, like the new Blood Angels jump Contemptor for 30k .
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 02:03
|
|
|
Potential BFF posted:It's a bummer the guy who did essentially all of the 30K Solar Auxilia left so there's probably not going to be some Veletaris++ Stormtrooper stand-ins done up like the command section dudes. Holy crap that model is cool. You can make armies of these guys?
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 02:07
|
|
|
The best dread in 40K is, and will always be, Murderfang. With his Murderclaws and Murderlust.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 02:22
|
|
|
The Dregs posted:Holy crap that model is cool. You can make armies of these guys? You can yes, but your bank account won't like you.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 02:22
|
|
|
Revelation 2-13 posted:I think you’re right in track with your thinking, getting the battalions up and running for the CP is really important. I’d add that it kinda depends on local meta and stuff. Sometimes there is like an unspoken rule that you don’t bring a lord of war, like baneblade/knight to sub-1000 games. Thanks, I appreciate the advice. I don't think I'll go with Pauper Princes though, the +1 charge from 4AE is too good, and the Bladed Cog battalion seems to fit with my plans for Neophytes perfectly. I'll be more cautious about the flamers though, will just hoard the flamer bits I have until I can make a big squad of 15. For cracking open marines, are regular acolytes with claws and knives okay at it, or do I really need the saws? Demo charges are probably too expensive to take on acolytes now, although I'd like to give them a try on bikes still. The saws seem exceptional and belong in the same slot, so I want to bring as many of those as I can, but with the scarcity of saw bits I might have to bring some naked squads as well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 02:25
|
|
|
They're a 30K army, but yea! You'd have to do some converting to get special weapons but I'd imagine the basic lasrifle Auxiliary would work as a guardsman.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 02:26
|
|
|
Boing posted:For cracking open marines, are regular acolytes with claws and knives okay at it, or do I really need the saws? Against Primaris, any boost you can give helps. A regular unit of Acolytes unsupported will quickly be overcome, but one buffed a bit goes a long way. +1S from either the banner or Twisted Helix is huge, rerolling 1s from a banner helps, and +1 to hit from a Primus is great. When you’re slamming into a unit with 60 attacks hitting on 2s, rerolling 1s, wounding on 3s with 0/-1/-4AP it feels good man. Saws really work best at that level, but that perfect storm is only easy to get started at higher levels, since it’s a lot of points to invest and your Acolytes will still fall to a stiff breeze. Don’t sell demos short. 5pts isn’t really a terrible deal for occasionally slagging a vehicle or otherwise tough unit. They’re best on bikes or huge surprise units (typically a flamer bomb) but sprinkling them in can hold a nasty surprise. Heck, tossing one before assaulting the above Primaris unit is going to kill ~1 before the knives come out. PierreTheMime fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Dec 6, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 02:37
|
|
|
Potential BFF posted:They're a 30K army, but yea! You'd have to do some converting to get special weapons but I'd imagine the basic lasrifle Auxiliary would work as a guardsman. Would honestly say they make even better Scions/Stormtroopers. Sub in some Volkite troopers for Plasma/Vollygun chumps and you're golden.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 02:41
|
|
|
Awesome, thanks the answers everyone! Looking forward to getting these put together and painted up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 02:58
|
|
|
The Dregs posted:Holy crap that model is cool. You can make armies of these guys?     
Zasze fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Dec 6, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 03:13
|
|
|
Giant Isopod posted:Quoting myself from pages ago: If you have access to a 3D printer, there's some very faithful Kasrkin models. The chunky style lends itself really well to printing. Don't remember if it was thread, or the mini painting thread, but I know someone printed a mini based off the Saturnine Terminator Armor. EDIT: Here it is, from the Mini Painting thread: Ghazk posted:Bought a photon printer from fellow forum superstar Olloth a few weeks ago. These things are pretty amazing. Currently working on a test build of Saturnine Pattern Terminators based on old Rogue Trader artwork. Potential BFF posted:They're a 30K army, but yea! You'd have to do some converting to get special weapons but I'd imagine the basic lasrifle Auxiliary would work as a guardsman. There's a lot of cool Forgeworld stuff I want, but the free shipping minimum for Forgeworld is a lot higher than GW. ($120 versus GW's $65). I'd like to do something from Forgeworld eventually, but I'd have to sit down and figure out what would be the best value. Along with the higher price, resin sounds like it's harder to work with. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Dec 6, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 04:23
|
|
|
What exactly is stopping Games Workshop from turning the resin kits into plastic ones
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 04:39
|
|
|
Max Wilco posted:Along with the higher price, resin sounds like it's harder to work with. Only marginally, imo. You do have to be a little more careful when you're snipping off gates because resin is more brittle than plastic. You might also need greenstuff for filling in gaps/repairing casting imperfections. Occasionally you'll come across models that have antennae that might be bent or ammo belts/cables that need bending. A little hot water or careful use of a hair dryer can fix that up for ya. FW orders will come with a handy pamphlet with protips on building resin models.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 04:43
|
|
|
goose willis posted:What exactly is stopping Games Workshop from turning the resin kits into plastic ones It's a much more expensive outlay to make a kit plastic vs. resin or pewter. The molds for injection molding run in the tens of thousands of dollars, and that's not counting the design for them. GW does most of that in-house, but it's still really expensive, and they only have so much capacity. It makes sense for things they know they'll sell a lot of units of worldwide, but less so for small specialty items that not that many people are going to field. For stuff like that, resin makes more sense. Not that this means they can't turn things from resin to plastic, of course. They've done it a fair number of times. It's just not something they're likely to do with every resin model.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 05:05
|
|
|
Dread chat: No one uses ironclads? Hurricane bolter is good, but I guess the hammer tax is really high. I’m curios about the t8 though, as it seems better than 6+++ considering bolter meta. Boing posted:For cracking open marines, are regular acolytes with claws and knives okay at it, or do I really need the saws? Pierre answered above, but to add; they are good but they are also only a 35 point unit (45 w/ icon), so don’t expect miracles. They’ll kill 2 intercessors (2.5 dead w/ icon, 2.8 dead with pp) on their own, on the charge. For comparison purposes, a little bit less than 30 guardsmen, in rapid fire range, with first rank fire/second rank fire orders on all of them. If you substitute a claw/knife for a rock saw, it jumps to 3.8 dead intercessors with icon (but now a 55 point unit). Buff with +1 str is obviously amazing against t4 (and to a lesser extent t8). A 5 man unit will absolutely be wiped out by literally anything that fights them first or survives though, and will be shot off the board by even very light/incidental firepower, so their only defense is really ‘not being on the board’. Guard stats with half the wounds.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 05:11
|
|
|
man, resin or not I really wanna get my hands on building a Leviathan.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 05:15
|
|
|
JackMann posted:It's a much more expensive outlay to make a kit plastic vs. resin or pewter. The molds for injection molding run in the tens of thousands of dollars, and that's not counting the design for them. GW does most of that in-house, but it's still really expensive, and they only have so much capacity. It makes sense for things they know they'll sell a lot of units of worldwide, but less so for small specialty items that not that many people are going to field. For stuff like that, resin makes more sense. The other reason why resin is easier to work with than plastic is that resin molds are made of rubber, while plastic injection molds are made of stainless steel. (Except for, evidently, a few molds they make for low-production numbers items like the store anniversary limited models, in which case word is the molds are made of aluminum. These are less expensive to make than stainless steel molds but aren't as durable.) Aside from it being way more expensive to tool a stainless steel mold, a metal mold has no flex. The rubber molds they use for resin can accomidate a small amount of... I don't know the technical term but I guess overhang, where if the mold were entirely rigid, then some part of the mold would block the model's release from it. This means, among other things, that they can't just take an existing resin model kit, take the molds for that kit, and duplicate them in stainless steel, and then start turning out a plastic version of what was a resin model. The model has to be redesigned and re-parted. This is why you'll rarely see a plastic model that exactly duplicates a resin model even if they're both ostensibly of the same thing. The old resin Tartartos Terminators, for example, have much more detailed knees.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 05:15
|
|
|
Two Beans posted:Only marginally, imo. You do have to be a little more careful when you're snipping off gates because resin is more brittle than plastic. You might also need greenstuff for filling in gaps/repairing casting imperfections. Occasionally you'll come across models that have antennae that might be bent or ammo belts/cables that need bending. A little hot water or careful use of a hair dryer can fix that up for ya. The other thing I heard was that you need to wash them before priming/painting, because there's residue on the plastic or something. One of the WHTV tutorial vids I watched featured a bit where they had a resin door for a Rhino that had to be cleaned, as well as fixed because it warped slightly. I think the method was to submerge it in hot water and let it sit a bit to make it pliable. EDIT: It was this one here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKhIQ1TL2FM I'm really tempted to go out and buy a Rhino this weekend. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Dec 6, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 06:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 07:04 |
|
|
Stephenls posted:The other reason why resin is easier to work with than plastic is that resin molds are made of rubber, while plastic injection molds are made of stainless steel. (Except for, evidently, a few molds they make for low-production numbers items like the store anniversary limited models, in which case word is the molds are made of aluminum. These are less expensive to make than stainless steel molds but aren't as durable.) Aside from it being way more expensive to tool a stainless steel mold, a metal mold has no flex. The rubber molds they use for resin can accomidate a small amount of... I don't know the technical term but I guess overhang, where if the mold were entirely rigid, then some part of the mold would block the model's release from it. This is all true. Resin silicone molds have a lot more flexibility and can accommodate imperfect overhangs and a bit of play. Injection molding is an automated process and you either get it right or you waste a mold. Both aluminum and tool steel molds are used. Tool steel is more erosion resistant and so will last longer. Aluminum is easier to machine but will eventually wear out, leading to less crisp recesses. Both require incredibly tight tolerances for machining and surface finish, careful design for cooling and plastic flow, and represent a significant investment in labor.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 07:14
|
|