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Xenomorph posted:OK, so I can definitely notice the shortcomings with the new Samsung 860 QVO drives. No benchmark app or stress test required. Well, it's not a secret.. There's no way, in my opinion, that the small amount of money saved is ever worth going QLC for. I'm still of the opinion that TLC is undesirable, but OK for a games drive or less important system, for example. Although I know that TLC drives have come a long way. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Dec 7, 2019 |
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Dec 7, 2019 16:11
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| # ? May 11, 2024 18:47 |
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I have an SSD (Samsung 850 EVO 500 GB) giving me poo poo when doing stuff with steam (install/playing games). Destiny 2 crashed and told me to verify file integrity which I did and steam found corrupt data files. I also tried to install a game and steam came up with some errors while doing so (there was plenty of free space left). I've run the HD Tune Pro error scan and it came up with no errors. Also as to rule out any other issues I've run the windows memory diagnostic (on standard) 7 times with no errors detected. I'm kind of stumped here. What do I use to see if it's dying?
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Dec 7, 2019 22:08
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Maybe try another SATA port? ...and cable. That too. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Dec 7, 2019 |
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Dec 7, 2019 23:08
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Pretty Cool Name posted:I have an SSD (Samsung 850 EVO 500 GB) giving me poo poo when doing stuff with steam (install/playing games). Destiny 2 crashed and told me to verify file integrity which I did and steam found corrupt data files. I also tried to install a game and steam came up with some errors while doing so (there was plenty of free space left). Get crystal disk info --- edit: HD Tune has this same info in the statistics panel, no need for crystaldisk --- and look at the drive, particularly 1. reallocated sector count 2. uncorrectable error count (or post a screenshot for interpretation) If the drive's own internal statistics are fine, swapping the sata cable might be a thing to do. Klyith fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Dec 7, 2019 |
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Dec 7, 2019 23:09
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Nthing possible SATA cable problem. Some are lovely and just go bad.
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Dec 7, 2019 23:14
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Gonna go buy a new cable tomorrow! Definitely worth a shot. I the meantime I'm running this: https://github.com/TalAloni/HardDiskValidator in write+verify mode. Will take another look at crystal disk/hd tune after this test is done, but I don't remember seeing anything stand out in the smart stats earlier. edit: It could be worth noting that the steam installs always fail on the pre-allocation stage, not the actual download stage. Which tells me that it runs into some sort of bad block... Pretty Cool Name fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Dec 7, 2019 |
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Dec 7, 2019 23:32
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Pretty Cool Name posted:Gonna go buy a new cable tomorrow! Definitely worth a shot. Don't bother with that tool, it won't work on a SSD. SSDs don't work like hard drives, writing to "sector #12345" can go anywhere in the actual flash. The controller decides based on it's own internal wear-leveling systems and keeps a translation map that says HD sector #12345 = page 6789 on flash chip 2. This is the same reason that full formatting or tools that erase drives by writing zeros to the whole drive are useless on SSDs.
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Dec 8, 2019 00:21
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True. Anyway I finished running it and to no one's surprise it didn't report any problems. Here's crystal disk:  edit: I wiped the whole drive and tried install some steam poo poo again, this is what I'm getting:  edit 2: Could it be an overheating issue? It seems like the peak temp is 51 degrees C, and the pre-allocation stuff hits the drive very hard. What are the temp limits of these drives? Pretty Cool Name fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Dec 8, 2019 |
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Dec 8, 2019 00:40
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Pretty Cool Name posted:True. Anyway I finished running it and to no one's surprise it didn't report any problems. Yeah the drive says it's fine. So I'd move on to swapping sata cable, re-seat power cables, & take quick look at the mobo capacitors if the system is many years old. This has probably been going on for a while but only now is bad enough that the normal amount of retries is being exceeded and making things straight fail. Your windows event viewer is probably full of disk error reports. (On the off chance you have the drive installed in one of the cases that have SSD mounts behind the back of the mobo tray or another out-of-the-way spot, make sure that the sata cable doesn't get folded or pinched by the case panel. Sata cables don't like sharp bends.) Pretty Cool Name posted:edit 2: Could it be an overheating issue? It seems like the peak temp is 51 degrees C, and the pre-allocation stuff hits the drive very hard. What are the temp limits of these drives? Klyith fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Dec 8, 2019 |
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Dec 8, 2019 01:09
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 This was all the error in the event viewer surprisingly. Will grab some new cables and report back. Thanks for all the help!
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Dec 8, 2019 01:16
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Pretty Cool Name posted:I have an SSD (Samsung 850 EVO 500 GB) giving me poo poo when doing stuff with steam (install/playing games). Destiny 2 crashed and told me to verify file integrity which I did and steam found corrupt data files. I also tried to install a game and steam came up with some errors while doing so (there was plenty of free space left). The Samsung drives seem to hide failures from the OS. My 970 had so many bad sectors that I lost about 10% of the files on it when backing up due to unreadable sector errors, but didn't report any problems via SMART or diagnostic tools, and a couple of days later it appeared to be fully usable (fill it up with data and verify data reported no errors - the drive must have moved the bad areas to it's swap space)
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Dec 8, 2019 01:17
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Pretty Cool Name posted:
The drive is broken. I've had 850 Pros poo poo the bed with unreadable sectors and no smart status feedback.
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Dec 8, 2019 02:24
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Update on my SSD saga.redeyes posted:The drive is broken. I've had 850 Pros poo poo the bed with unreadable sectors and no smart status feedback. You seem to be right. I had some new-in-bag-never-opened sata 6gbps cables in the basement it turned out, didn't help one bit. Ran one of the drives on a different port too. I say *one of* because here's the kicker, my system drive is a samsung 840 EVO 256 GB which is showing the exact same symptoms. First thing tomorrow morning I'm heading out to get a m.2 nvme drive. I've been looking at the Kingston A2000, is it decent? I don't care too much about performance, but I would like something decently reliable and that seems to be the best of what I can find in a brick and mortar store on sunday morning here. Not getting a samsung drive that's for sure. 2 dead is enough.
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Dec 8, 2019 08:23
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Pretty Cool Name posted:First thing tomorrow morning I'm heading out to get a m.2 nvme drive. I've been looking at the Kingston A2000, is it decent? I don't care too much about performance, but I would like something decently reliable and that seems to be the best of what I can find in a brick and mortar store on sunday morning here. Do you have a Micro Center within a sane driving range?
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Dec 8, 2019 08:26
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Not unless I buy a boat, I'm in europe 
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Dec 8, 2019 08:50
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Switched out my 830 for the 860. Samsung migration app was pretty worthless. To be fair I should have known better when the 860 didn't pop up as a working volume, but redoing the clone with competent software worked and no issues so far. Having more breathing room on a boot SSD is nice, can't front.
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Dec 8, 2019 09:14
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Pretty Cool Name posted:edit 2: Could it be an overheating issue? It seems like the peak temp is 51 degrees C, and the pre-allocation stuff hits the drive very hard. What are the temp limits of these drives? Just FYI, the 850 Evo's operating temperature range is 0-70℃ per Samsung.
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Dec 8, 2019 11:07
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I was looking for a fast drive to put in my machine and I came across this: https://www.microcenter.com/product/608457/inland-performance-500gb-ssd-3d-nand-m2-2280-pcie-nvme-40-x4-internal-solid-state-drive What's "PCIe 4.0 X 4"?? does my old "MSI Z170A Gaming M5" board support it? I've had really good luck with Inland, so that doesn't bother me. Any other recommendations? I'd like to support MicroCenter, I'm a software developer who runs databases and VMs locally on my machine... but I doubt I write thaaaat much to the drive as to need anything special.
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Dec 8, 2019 20:19
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It’s a PCIe Gen4 drive that runs the lane speed at 16Gb/s instead of the 8 that Gen3 did. It’s fine with running in Gen3 slots though. If the motherboard has a pcie m.2 slot you’re good.
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Dec 8, 2019 20:25
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Pretty Cool Name posted:First thing tomorrow morning I'm heading out to get a m.2 nvme drive. I've been looking at the Kingston A2000, is it decent? I don't care too much about performance, but I would like something decently reliable and that seems to be the best of what I can find in a brick and mortar store on sunday morning here. Kingston isn't a great brand for SSDs because they change components on a model and keep the same name, so you don't always know what you're getting. But that's not going to be any worse than no-name cheap brands so if Kingston is the best you can get it's not a terrible choice. As long as you're not paying any extra for the A2000 that is. namlosh posted:Any other recommendations? I'd like to support MicroCenter, I'm a software developer who runs databases and VMs locally on my machine... but I doubt I write thaaaat much to the drive as to need anything special. It's extremely overpriced because gen4 pcie is new. For your purposes this 1TB Inland Premium is probably identically fast and twice the size.
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Dec 8, 2019 20:48
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Klyith posted:
Dang... it’s installing right now, lol. Oh well... I’m getting it tangentially for a project so I’ll see if I can expense it. Thx for the tip!
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Dec 8, 2019 22:27
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Well I'm dumb. I estimated my current storage drive use to be at 800-ish gb, though I've had a hell of a time doing so as it's failing pretty hard. Well as it turns out, I was only using about 600 of it. Woops! Guess I don't need that 2tb ssd then. I could return it and get the 1tb 860 Evo on sale for $110. But the 2tb was on sale for $30 the 1tb's normal price, and that's a deal I feel is worth keeping. Also I'm lazy, and my hdd is failing so hard that i don't want to wait longer to extract the data from it.
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Dec 9, 2019 06:01
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Sprite141 posted:Well I'm dumb. I estimated my current storage drive use to be at 800-ish gb, though I've had a hell of a time doing so as it's failing pretty hard. Well as it turns out, I was only using about 600 of it. Woops! Ehhh, don't worry about it, you'll have too much storage until you need more.
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Dec 9, 2019 15:39
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I bought a Samsung 970 Evo Plus as an Amazon Warehouse deal with an extra 20% off around Black Friday and it was DOA. I RMA'd it with Samsung and they responded today saying that the drive was missing the proper controller and appeared to have been tampered with so they're sending it back without repair and I will have to figure it out with Amazon. Has anyone ever experienced anything like this? I guess I have to return it for a refund if they don't have any open box ones in stock before I get it back from the Samsung techs. The only thing that seemed off about it visually was that the serial number on the device label had an extra D at the end which wasn't on the serial number on the packaging.
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Dec 10, 2019 00:58
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No, that's a first for me. I wouldn't be terribly surprised to learn that assholes were taking, say, 960's and swapping the guts into a 970 and then returning it. But "missing the proper controller" sounds a little more specific and a lot more odd to me.
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Dec 10, 2019 01:17
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DrDork posted:No, that's a first for me. I wouldn't be terribly surprised to learn that assholes were taking, say, 960's and swapping the guts into a 970 and then returning it. But "missing the proper controller" sounds a little more specific and a lot more odd to me. Samsung Customer Support posted:I apologize for any inconvenience, however, the drive will be sent back to you with[sic without] repair. The drive does not contain the proper controller. For assistance with this unit please contact your point of purchase as a tampered with unit was sold to you. 
my kinda ape fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Dec 10, 2019 |
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Dec 10, 2019 01:24
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https://www.anandtech.com/show/13761/the-samsung-970-evo-plus-ssd-review I didn’t go over every part of the image but yours appears to match Anandtech’s review sample in PCB trace layout and markings. Both have a 15 digit serial number including the letter at the end. The only thing I see on yours is some kind of smudge or scrape on the sticker at the top right. Perhaps they decided this was tampering?
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Dec 10, 2019 01:56
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BobHoward posted:I didn’t go over every part of the image but yours appears to match Anandtech’s review sample in PCB trace layout and markings. It's a possibility that some defective units or PCBs walked out the back of the factory and re-entered the sales channel... A lot of counterfeit stuff these days is based more on theft than bad imitations. BobHoward posted:The only thing I see on yours is some kind of smudge or scrape on the sticker at the top right. Perhaps they decided this was tampering? Or that's where the sticker got applied by hand to a counterfeit product? But in general I'd return anything DOA right back to the store where I bought it, not try to get support from the mfr. Especially to someone like amazon where it's quite easy. Faster turnaround, and every store is gonna have a return policy that's way more favorable than warranty service. They know you have the ability to dispute charges for leverage.
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Dec 10, 2019 02:18
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Klyith posted:But in general I'd return anything DOA right back to the store where I bought it, not try to get support from the mfr. Especially to someone like amazon where it's quite easy. Faster turnaround, and every store is gonna have a return policy that's way more favorable than warranty service. They know you have the ability to dispute charges for leverage. Yeah I just decided to try Samsung since I didn't think Amazon did replacements on warehouse deals (they actually do but only if an item of the same condition is in stock) and I got a really good price on it with the open box markdown and extra 20% off for Black Friday.
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Dec 10, 2019 02:30
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Looking this up a little, I guess samsung is trigger happy accusing people of having fake or modified drives. Sucks because who wants to deal with that bullshit.
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Dec 10, 2019 02:43
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I just bought one of those Inland Premium 2TB drives and am gonna return the Samsung. I just won't buy Amazon Warehouse deals or Samsung drives anymore I guess VV
my kinda ape fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Dec 10, 2019 |
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Dec 10, 2019 02:54
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So, I had a spare NVMe 1TB drive kicking around because I'm a dummy. I bought a second drive because I remembered my laptop having two slots, but it turns out that was the laptop I bought before this one that I had to return. I got an enclosure for it, and I was just wondering- how much performance am I losing by having it as an external connected via thunderbolt 3 cable?
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Dec 10, 2019 19:52
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my kinda ape posted:I just bought one of those Inland Premium 2TB drives and am gonna return the Samsung. I just won't buy Amazon Warehouse deals or Samsung drives anymore I guess V I would have taken up an DOA device directly with amazon first. I wonder what 3rd party they are using that is loving around.
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Dec 10, 2019 20:01
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Ugly In The Morning posted:So, I had a spare NVMe 1TB drive kicking around because I'm a dummy. I bought a second drive because I remembered my laptop having two slots, but it turns out that was the laptop I bought before this one that I had to return. I got an enclosure for it, and I was just wondering- how much performance am I losing by having it as an external connected via thunderbolt 3 cable? Thunderbolt 3 has 40gbps throughput and nvme drives right now are half that so probably none? Complete guesswork
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Dec 10, 2019 20:32
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Moey posted:I would have taken up an DOA device directly with amazon first. Warehouse deals are often returns, so other than maybe contracting out the logistical management of returns getting relisted, it's probably not a 3rd party issue as much as a poisoned supply chain issue (either someone swapped stickers and returned, or as was mentioned early it may have "fallen off the back of a truck" at some point along the way).
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Dec 10, 2019 21:08
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Anyone know where the SK hynix BC501 ends up on the garbage spectrum? It's the stock NVMe on the lower-end laptops I got my kids, so the only real worry I have is it dying before I get around to upgrading them from 128gb to a 500 or 1tb phison. HFM128GDJTNG-8310A
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Dec 10, 2019 21:34
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What is a not butt, not knockoff SATA M.2 2242 sized drive? I want to put a larger one into an Acer C740 chromebook. Looking at Amazon, this Transcend MTS430S has a DRAM Cache and allegedly supports all the S.M.A.R.T features. I cant figure out what controller is has tho. Basically I dont want to pay for the ripoff Samsung 860 2242 size but not give this laptop to someone and have it crash after a month.
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Dec 14, 2019 05:10
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fivehead posted:What is a not butt, not knockoff SATA M.2 2242 sized drive? I want to put a larger one into an Acer C740 chromebook. Looking at Amazon, this Transcend MTS430S has a DRAM Cache and allegedly supports all the S.M.A.R.T features. I cant figure out what controller is has tho. MyDigitalSSD isn't top-tier, but it's not "butt," either: https://www.amazon.com/MyDigitalSSD-256GB-Super-Solid-State/dp/B01MXMQQ7Z And it's available up to 512GB capacity.
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Dec 14, 2019 05:39
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Hey, gang. I bought a 1TB SSD and plugged it in but Windows 7 doesn't see it. My BIOS seems to, though I can't make it boot. Based on this image, can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong? Boot 1 is my main SSD. Boot 2 is my external HDD. So is Boot 3 for some reason. It's a 3 TB drive. Down below the Boot Override is the three drives, including HDD twice. P3: MKNSSDRW1TB is the new one, but it doesn't appear in the Boot Option dropdown. I've Googled the poo poo out of this, but I don't know the right keywords to use, and I'm so tired of wandering through threads that don't take me anywhere 
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Dec 14, 2019 06:49
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Assuming that MKNSSDRW1TB is your new drive you want to boot from, you have to set that in one of the three boot priorities (preferably #1). If given an option in the drop-down, try picking the UEFI: MKNSSDRW1TB one. Otherwise there's not much we can tell from that screen alone.
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Dec 14, 2019 07:27
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