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B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

MetaJew posted:

I asked a while back but I want to install some pendants lights over my island. The wiring is ready to go in the attic, but I don't know what kind of jbox to use. I am guessing I need to buy new construction ceiling fan boxes that are nailed into the trusses/joists. Is this correct?

You don't need a box rated for a ceiling fan unless these lights are super heavy. Something like this (holds 50 lbs) will be sufficient and still allow you flexibility in where between the joists you place the box: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-4-in-20-cu-in-New-Work-Ceiling-Electrical-Box-with-Large-Hanger-Bar-B620KR-UPC/202065289

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Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Sirotan posted:

And I am not sure yet, there's sooooooo many projects that need to be done on the inside that I've really only had a chance to focus on the absolute bare minimum on taking care of the yard. I'd certainly love to put in a patio or a raised deck as I love to grill and entertain. I'm also toying with the idea of turning the dining room wall into a sliding glass door to the backyard, and would put a deck to walk out onto, but I'm not sure if 1) I can afford it or 2) the historic district commission would let me do it.

I don't yet regret buying a fixer-upper but it is certainly the opposite thing to do if you enjoy relaxing, having a social life, or going anywhere besides back to your house to work on things every evening/weekend.

Extremely :same:

I know you've probably thought this through already, but will the exorcist be arriving before or after the stump grinder?

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


MetaJew posted:

I asked a while back but I want to install some pendants lights over my island. The wiring is ready to go in the attic, but I don't know what kind of jbox to use. I am guessing I need to buy new construction ceiling fan boxes that are nailed into the trusses/joists. Is this correct?

Please do the sturdiest thing

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Jaded Burnout posted:

Extremely :same:

I know you've probably thought this through already, but will the exorcist be arriving before or after the stump grinder?

I've got one penciled in for the winter solstice but since I had this cut down on Friday the 13th, I may now be forever cursed.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

peanut posted:

Please do the sturdiest thing

But I'm asking for advice on what the "sturdiest thing" is.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Yeah, just do that.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
Screening and coating a bedroom tomorrow. I already did a small test patch and adhesion seems to be fine to the existing finish when screened.

Anyone have any tips (I guess mostly on the ‘applying finish to a whole drat room’ end of things)?

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
What is "screening"?

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

MetaJew posted:

But I'm asking for advice on what the "sturdiest thing" is.

Full your joist space with concrete like a rotting tree stump then screw directly to that.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
I was planning on notching the joists for a sunken pendant look that females love so much.

Live. Love. Notch.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

cakesmith handyman posted:

Full your joist space with concrete like a rotting tree stump then screw directly to that.

That is total overkill. All you need is a few 2 by's attached with Simpson ties. Put one every 16 in between the joists, do your wiring, and then the fill the cavity with expanding foam and cover the top with 2 layers of plywood.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Nevets posted:

That is total overkill. All you need is a few 2 by's attached with Simpson ties. Put one every 16 in between the joists, do your wiring, and then the fill the cavity with expanding foam and cover the top with 2 layers of plywood.

What’s the expanding foam for?

Seems like a nightmare for maintenance, and insulation is taken care of in the attic.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

wooger posted:

What’s the expanding foam for?

Seems like a nightmare for maintenance, and insulation is taken care of in the attic.

:thejoke:

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

MetaJew posted:

What is "screening"?

Essentially just scuffing the floor with a sanding screen and putting down a new layer of polyurethane.

https://www.peteshardwoodfloors.com/Wood-Floor-Techniques-101/what-is-a-screen-and-recoat.html

It went well!

ntan1
Apr 29, 2009

sempai noticed me
After about 2.5 months, my permit has been approved for the first floor remodel (about 1400 sqft) and I'm really excited.

Masey
Aug 22, 2006
Pancakes.
We pulled up our carpet recently in our home that we've owned for about 7 years now. There's a hole in the original wood floor (1918 I think) that is about the size of my fist. I can see through to the basement with it and I have no idea how to fix it, who I should contact to fix it and if there's any legal actions we can pursue at this point as I am 99% sure the carpet was deliberately installed to cover the damage.

I'll post pictures tomorrow probably.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Masey posted:

if there's any legal actions we can pursue at this point as I am 99% sure the carpet was deliberately installed to cover the damage.

99% sure of something 7 years ago is not a legal standard. In short: welcome to home ownership; this is your problem now.

A reasonably competent handyman will be able to fix the hole, but if you're planning on restoring the hardwoods, you'll see the repair.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Find someone that installs hardwood floors, they can come out and give you a quote on how much it would cost to fix that. You could probably pull up a few boards from a corner or a closet somewhere for the patch to make it look less conspicuous. It'll probably cost you a couple hundred bucks- my mom had a contractor over yesterday to replace 4 boards at her place that were damaged during my move and was quoted $350 for this work, but the floor is less than 5 years old, pre-finished, and she had extra boards leftover in the basement.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Well then. Through a series of mistakes I didn't process that the paper in the bottom of the toilet had clogged it when the last person flushed and re-flushed. This caused an overflow, oops. By the time I got some towels to soak it up the water was gone. :stare:

I assume the spider colony that is my crawl space just got irrigated.

It's a good thing I'm literally signing a bathroom remodel today.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Masey posted:

We pulled up our carpet recently in our home that we've owned for about 7 years now. There's a hole in the original wood floor (1918 I think) that is about the size of my fist. I can see through to the basement with it and I have no idea how to fix it, who I should contact to fix it and if there's any legal actions we can pursue at this point as I am 99% sure the carpet was deliberately installed to cover the damage.

I'll post pictures tomorrow probably.

Legal actions are rarely worth the time. This is probably not one of those times. There's a lawyer thread in A/T that might have some advice though.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Added some additional insulation to the top of one of the bedrooms. It’s technically the “bonus room” above the garage so it isn’t insulated as well.



two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
If I'm replacing a dryer, is it worthwhile to go from an electric dryer to a gas one? It's right by the gas hot water heater, so installation shouldn't be too bad?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 12 hours!

two_beer_bishes posted:

If I'm replacing a dryer, is it worthwhile to go from an electric dryer to a gas one? It's right by the gas hot water heater, so installation shouldn't be too bad?

Probably, but it depends on what gas costs where you live. If you already have gas that probably means its cheaper than electric for heating.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

two_beer_bishes posted:

If I'm replacing a dryer, is it worthwhile to go from an electric dryer to a gas one? It's right by the gas hot water heater, so installation shouldn't be too bad?

Only caveat to the other advice - where are you going to dump the exhaust gas? Water heaters can just shoot it straight up through the roof, dryers need shorter wider runs typically to prevent lint accumulation.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Check your local gas or energy company for rebates. My gas company in central Texas gave a $250 rebate for a moisture sensing gas dryer and has rebates for installing gas lines for dryers, as well.

For me it worked out great because Ii bought an open box Samsung gas dryer for $500, with the rebate it was only $250.

Edit: I think I posted about the roots in my sewer line a few weeks ago. I got around to locating and digging it out or exposing it. Hopefully this is enough to save a few $100s on the plumber to have them come out and patch it. I imagine I need to dig it out more, but I think this is about a cubic yard, to begin with and with how rocky the soil is, that was a real pain in the rear end.

MetaJew fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Dec 24, 2019

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

MetaJew posted:

Check your local gas or energy company for rebates. My gas company in central Texas gave a $250 rebate for a moisture sensing gas dryer and has rebates for installing gas lines for dryers, as well.

For me it worked out great because Ii bought an open box Samsung gas dryer for $500, with the rebate it was only $250.

Edit: I think I posted about the roots in my sewer line a few weeks ago. I got around to locating and digging it out or exposing it. Hopefully this is enough to save a few $100s on the plumber to have them come out and patch it. I imagine I need to dig it out more, but I think this is about a cubic yard, to begin with and with how rocky the soil is, that was a real pain in the rear end.



I'll look into that, thanks for the idea

H110Hawk posted:

Only caveat to the other advice - where are you going to dump the exhaust gas? Water heaters can just shoot it straight up through the roof, dryers need shorter wider runs typically to prevent lint accumulation.

Does the exhaust get piped out with the lint? Right now it goes down into the crawlspace then 10ft or so to the vent outside.

Motronic posted:

Probably, but it depends on what gas costs where you live. If you already have gas that probably means its cheaper than electric for heating.

SE Michigan, neither are particularly expensive. I'll check the exact rates and figure out if it makes sense to make the change.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

two_beer_bishes posted:

Does the exhaust get piped out with the lint? Right now it goes down into the crawlspace then 10ft or so to the vent outside.

Yes. 10' and 2 right angles should be fine, download the manual of the one you might buy and check.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

two_beer_bishes posted:

If I'm replacing a dryer, is it worthwhile to go from an electric dryer to a gas one? It's right by the gas hot water heater, so installation shouldn't be too bad?

The other consideration is the sizing of your gas lines. I'm assuming you have a tank water heater, and if so, a 1/2 pipe should be able to provide enough gas for the WH and a dryer, assuming the run isn't too long. It will also depend on your furnace and how the lines are run.

You'll need a plumber to run the pipe anyway, and they can check to see if the capacity is sufficient.

WithoutTheFezOn
Aug 28, 2005
Oh no
Also probably not a big deal since there’s presumably already a washer next to it, but electric dryers (that I’m familiar with) use a 220V plug while gas ones use a regular 110V.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
I had no idea gas dryers were a thing until I bought my current house, which came with a gas dryer.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Why would you want to dry gas? it's already dry lol

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
My wife ordered a mirror for our dining room, fine. Not so fine: that wall contains the supply/drain for the master bath. I spent a ridiculous amount of time measuring to get it precisely centered as well as ensuring I wouldn’t be drilling in to the pipes.

I screw the first drywall anchor in and it only goes about 1/2” deep and stops. I take a closer look, and there’s a stud behind it. Sweet!

I then measure and go to put the other side in: same thing. I somehow hit two studs exactly, even though my holes were definitely less than 32” apart. I should buy a lottery ticket. :psyduck:

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010
Consider buying a stud finder if your luck ever runs out.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
That was with a stud finder. When the wife wants it centered, you just say “to what level of precision, dear?”

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 12 hours!

devmd01 posted:

That was with a stud finder. When the wife wants it centered, you just say “to what level of precision, dear?”

You can easily center things like that that wouldn't work just using stud spacing by installing a furring strip or similar across studs. So you don't have to always be lucky, you can just be accurate.

SetPhazers2Funk
Jan 27, 2008

Good, bad, I'm the one with the gun.
French cleats are also a lifesaver for resolving those otherwise impossible centering requests from the significant other.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Get yourself some picture rails. Advantage that they also look kinda classy.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

I wanted to share a "fun" experience I had over the last few days. We just moved into a new (80s) house earlier this month, and had family stay for the holidays. For Christmas dinner, I think my mother in law put a few greasy things down the garbage disposal that she shouldn't have, and the sink backed up. It's a funky 3 basin sink, with the middle one being a very small basin with the disposal. All three were backing up, so it was clear that the blockage was somewhere in the p-trap or downstream.

I removed the p-trap to check it, totally clear. I didn't have much in the way of plumbing supplies or tools after the recent move, so my first attempt was to throw a bunch of baking soda and vinegar at it, no dice. Ran some errands, got some clog destroyer and a snake, and gave the clog destroyer a shot first. Didn't help.

I started with the snake, which I had to do with the p-trap removed as the pipes coming from each sink basin join right at 90 degrees and the snake wouldn't make it around the corner. I almost immediately encountered what seemed like the clog just a few inches past the p-trap and went at it, pretty confident that I'd cleared that. While I was there, used the full 25' length of the snake for good measure. Put everything back together... still clogged. Backed up almost immediately. I was pretty miffed at this point because I figured with 25' it _must_ have gotten past a junction with other drains into a larger pipe (and nothing else was backed up).

So at this point I went into the crawl space to scope things out and look for a cleanout. Turns out that the 1.5" drain pipes went to 2" almost immediately after leaving the cabinet space and entering the crawl space, and there was a cleanout right there, with a very long and mostly straight length of 2" until hitting the main 3" after everything else in the house. Pulled the cleanout cap, got sprayed with filthy water (but anticipated that and had glasses and a bucket, still made a mess). Snaked from there, and about a foot short of the end of the snake encountered another clog. Went at that until I felt pretty confident I had done as much as I could, put the cap back on and ran the faucet again. Backed up, yet again. At this point I was ready to throw in the towel and call a plumber, and pretty frustrated and filthy took a shower to calm down a little and relax.

The master bedroom in this house has a pretty weird and gigantic jetted tube; a square shape about 6 by 6 feet. While I was showering, a few inches of water had backed up from a bit of hair blocking the drain strainer, so I cleared that out of the way and got out when I was done. When I returned to the kitchen, the rest of the family told me that when I finished my shower, the sink suddenly drained completely. Everything was fine after that.

My theory: the backed up water in the shower suddenly draining all at once passed by the junction with the kitchen sink drain, the clog was just upstream of that junction, and the suction from the rushing water pulled it out after I loosened it with the snake?

At any rate, maybe I need to give up in frustration on things sooner in the future.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Garbage disposals are a plumber's best friend. InSinkErator's products have probably put more plumbers' kids through college than 529 plans have.

One of the benefits of living on/having lived on septic is that you're mindful of what goes down the drains. It's not just a magic black hole that eats anything that fits: water, poop, pee, toilet paper, and a very small amount of food particles/non-greasy food liquids are the only things that should go down there. The town next to me just had to install a million dollar+ filtering machine in their sewage plant to catch all the baby wipes idiots flush down the drain. A textbook example of 'tragedy of the commons', where everyone pays higher sewer bills due to a few people literally being lovely.

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Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Yeah, I grew up with septic and certainly learned that lesson. Mother in law is not used to having a disposal and probably doesn't realize it's not a magical device for any food scraps.

It's also entirely possible that something larger went down the normal drain on one of the basins because it didn't have a strainer when we moved in, just a hole:

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