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MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

You can't do dummy stats in places like "Hotels" and "The VP's office". Occupants will buy a data logging thermometer off amazon and call your bullshit.

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Bird in a Blender
Nov 17, 2005

It's amazing what they can do with computers these days.

Dummy stats don’t work because the owner is paying for working stats. You can also lock stats down to a very small range or even make it so they can’t be adjusted. Then the teachers complain non-stop about it until maintenance tells you to give the teachers control again.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Why is my air conditioning significantly louder than my heater? It all goes through the same air handler.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

FogHelmut posted:

Why is my air conditioning significantly louder than my heater? It all goes through the same air handler.

Explain where it's louder.

What fuel is your heater? Where is it in relation to your living space?

Also set your thermostat to fan only if you have that and tell us what it sounds like.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Please rate all funny noise on a scale of Dane Cook to George Carlin.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Motronic posted:

Explain where it's louder.

What fuel is your heater? Where is it in relation to your living space?

Also set your thermostat to fan only if you have that and tell us what it sounds like.

Natural gas. In the middle of everything, like centrally located on the first floor.

It's like when the heater is on the fan is blowing and it's quiet. When the air conditioner is on its like the fan is turned up to 11.

Do these have variable speed settings?

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Yes. It is very possible your fan is set for max speed cooling, and medium for heat. A lot of unit come from the factory set like this.

If you are feeling adventurous and can read a circuit diagram, you can usually knock the cooling down a notch by changing a jumper.

This may affect the performance of your cooling though.

Ups_rail
Dec 8, 2006

by Fluffdaddy
MY friends husband is an electrician by trade and is now working for a property management company, the local city government is a tenant in some building and this is what he is going through.

"its cold"

"the thermostat says its this?"

"yeah but it feel cold, it doesnt feel like that"

"um what do you want me to do"

"It just feels colder you know"

to the on site administrator

"hey here is the key to control the thermostat just do what every you have to do"

administrator "yeah I am not going to do that"

He is learning that like all good bureaucrats going over and talking with them is not a good idea because all they will do is email his boss to document that heater not working.

Okay so quick question nothing so crazy and the last few posters. I have a one bed room house buildt in the 1930 attic has blown in insulation the sq I am ball parking to around 900 ft.

AC company is recomending a 2 ton 14 seer package unit.

What size return do I need googling gets me stuff like at least 400 inch grill with a 14' duct to go to the unit.

That sound right to you guys?

Frinkahedron
Jul 26, 2006

Gobble Gobble
Bought a Google Nest on Black Friday deals and quickly learning that my 16 year old heat pump isn't the most straightforward to swap the thermostat on.

The current thermostat is a Trane XT500C and it's wired like this:



From what I can find online, the B, O, and X2 lines tend to be different on Trane systems than usual. There's no X2 equivalent on the Google Nest, but I think this is the "Aux" wire for the backup electric heat? The current thermostat also lets me put it into an emergency heat mode.

The outdoor unit is an XR12, model number 4TWR2030A1000AB, indoor air handler is 4TEE3F31A1000AA. Unfortunately these are old enough that finding install manuals for them is proving difficult.

I found the google nest pro install manual here: http://support-assets.nest.com/images/pro-faq/Nest-Pro-Installer-Guide.pdf that has a sample wiring diagram for a 1 stage heat pump with aux and emergency heat (unless I have a two-stage heat pump? I don't really have a lot of experience with this)



So given this and some googling, I think this is how I need to wire it, but I could definitely use a double check or a "hey you're way over your head call a professional".

Old XT500C - New Nest
R - R
B - C
O - OB
Y1 - Y1
G - G
W - W2/Aux
X2 - *


I also have slowly learned to curse the previous owners for dumb things, so I'm fully prepared for this to be another thing to add to their poo poo list :v:

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

We need a picture of the other end. the wiring block inside the air handler.

Colors only mean something if the installer followed color coding. Unlike electricians, it's not a requirement for low voltage wiring like hvac stuff.

Frinkahedron
Jul 26, 2006

Gobble Gobble

MRC48B posted:

We need a picture of the other end. the wiring block inside the air handler.

Colors only mean something if the installer followed color coding. Unlike electricians, it's not a requirement for low voltage wiring like hvac stuff.

oh dear dear dear




I assume one bundle is to the thermostat and the other bundle is to the outdoor unit?

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

wow that insulation got roasted.

The real question is wtf your brown white and black wires doing.

everything else looks ok, the question is will your secondary heat kick on when you want it.

do you have multiple stages of electric heat?

Frinkahedron
Jul 26, 2006

Gobble Gobble
I think I only have the one aux heat and then the emergency heat.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
Having a problem with our furnace blower. The furnace kicks on, lights and heats properly, but the blower fan won't spin up to full speed. It will at random, spin up and work properly but once the house temp hits the preset it shuts down and goes back to the original problem.

It's a Trane XV80.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kpvhMWArR4

I've been reading for a couple hours, the blower motor capacitor could be the culprit? Thing is, with this model I can't seem to identify it based on the videos i've watched.





Edit: please excuse the stupid avatar, we have an incel problem in BSS.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

It's almost certainly the start/run cap.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!

Motronic posted:

It's almost certainly the start/run cap.

Alright, on the right track then. Now the problem being that I don't see a capacitor.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

check around the right side of that image where the filter is. there may be a pair of wires going off the motor to it.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

I don't think those variable speed ECM units have caps?

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
I'm not seeing anything




angryrobots posted:

I don't think those variable speed ECM units have caps?

So what's my next move? Likely the motor itself?

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

ooooh yeah. You probably need a new motor.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!

MRC48B posted:

ooooh yeah. You probably need a new motor.

What I was dreading.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

The downside of ECM motors. They work great, until they don't.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

I would defer to ExplodingSims or one of the other resident service techs but on mine it was a bad motor module. There are YouTube videos for troubleshooting Trane variable speed motors.

The good news is you can probably fix it yourself. The bad news is it might be a $$$ in parts.

carticket
Jun 28, 2005

white and gold.

Can I just use pretty much any old cheap battery powered thermostat to replace a mercury switch electromechanical thermostat? My very large and very rarely used room seems to consistently heat up about 6 degrees above where I set it, and I have heard the water flowing when the thermostat is well above that point. It may be that the sensor is so close to the opening to the kitchen that it is heating up from the rest of the house, but that doesn't explain the water running erroneously. I am trying to get it to keep it at 60 when not in use, but it seems to sit at 65ish consistently.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

angryrobots posted:

I don't think those variable speed ECM units have caps?

Ooooofff...didn't realize it was variable. Sorry Rhyno. That one's gonna hurt right in your wallet.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!

Motronic posted:

Ooooofff...didn't realize it was variable. Sorry Rhyno. That one's gonna hurt right in your wallet.

Sounds like it. Exploding Sims said as much and our local guy said $600+ for it and it won't be here for like 5 days.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Mr. Powers posted:

Can I just use pretty much any old cheap battery powered thermostat to replace a mercury switch electromechanical thermostat? My very large and very rarely used room seems to consistently heat up about 6 degrees above where I set it, and I have heard the water flowing when the thermostat is well above that point. It may be that the sensor is so close to the opening to the kitchen that it is heating up from the rest of the house, but that doesn't explain the water running erroneously. I am trying to get it to keep it at 60 when not in use, but it seems to sit at 65ish consistently.

Yes, but you should also set it way low and make sure the hot water zone valve isn't leaking by or the actuator opening when it's supposed to be "off".

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Rhyno posted:

Sounds like it. Exploding Sims said as much and our local guy said $600+ for it and it won't be here for like 5 days.

A company that services Trane should keep the motor, module, and control boards in stock or at worst have them 1 day out in the state Trane warehouse, so that local guy sounds like BS to me

If you can troubleshoot it you can definitely order the parts online if you can suffer through the shipping time. I hate to tell anyone to throw parts at problems but..... It's probably the motor module.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!

angryrobots posted:

A company that services Trane should keep the motor, module, and control boards in stock or at worst have them 1 day out in the state Trane warehouse, so that local guy sounds like BS to me

If you can troubleshoot it you can definitely order the parts online if you can suffer through the shipping time. I hate to tell anyone to throw parts at problems but..... It's probably the motor module.

Sorry to be confusing, our "local" guy is a friend who has to go and pick it up himself in Toledo where their service center is based. That would be the only way we can get the part cheaper. Our regular HVAC people have a 24 hour line and they said if we can make it through one night they will be here at 8am.

I did google all the part numbers and nothing comes up on even ebay.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

That's what also sucks about ECM motors. no standardization.

speed-select PSC motors were commodity parts, everyone and their mother has their own ECM setup.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
Well it's a bunch of bullshit and I don't like it.

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


Unfortunately that seems to be the future of HVAC equipment.
Every manufacturer is going to their own proprietary stuff. It gets even worst when you start getting into the communicating units and high end stuff.

There are a few companies making universal ECM stuff, but the quality seems to be all over the map.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
I mean, I hate big government but jesus, you'd think there'd be regulations and guidelines on this poo poo making everything cross compatible.

Thanks for everyone's help though!

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Rhyno posted:

I mean, I hate big government but jesus, you'd think there'd be regulations and guidelines on this poo poo making everything cross compatible.

If anything, the government just makes things worse with SEER/HSPF and efficiency mandates. Can't get 18+ SEER by just chucking a big honking PSC leaf blower in there. Even though all the $$ efficiency gains are chucked right out the window the when the $800+ ECM shits the bed.

carticket
Jun 28, 2005

white and gold.

MRC48B posted:

Yes, but you should also set it way low and make sure the hot water zone valve isn't leaking by or the actuator opening when it's supposed to be "off".

Each zone has its own circulating pump, so there's no leaking to be had. It's either the thermostat or the controller for the zones, I would imagine. This is a recent addition on the house, too, so it's not like digital thermostats were particularly expensive 10 years ago when the room was finished.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

B-Nasty posted:

If anything, the government just makes things worse with SEER/HSPF and efficiency mandates. Can't get 18+ SEER by just chucking a big honking PSC leaf blower in there. Even though all the $$ efficiency gains are chucked right out the window the when the $800+ ECM shits the bed.

The manufacturer doesn't give a single gently caress about that because it's the customers problem. During volume production I'd be surprised if they're spending more than 50-100 to fabricate and populate that board.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
Welp, looks like a new furnace is happening.

The motor is not in stock with Trane locally, the whole assembly and board is crazy expensive so we went with a new furnace for peace of mind.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Gaddmn that sucks dude. But probably the right move.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
Hey, that's life. I'd rather pay for a new unit now instead of putting a bunch of band aids on the old one.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Yeah, that's exactly what I just did with a (turned out to be 13 years old) dishwasher. Repairable? Yes. Worth repairing? Probably not, because I'm sure I'd be right back in the in the next week to few months to replace the next 13 year old thing that lest the smoke out.

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