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amazing username/post combo on that one. Cuffs are my nemesis, yeah.
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Dec 7, 2019 23:24
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Renaissance Robot posted:Also get a sidestand that doesn't try to kill you maybe Any good ideas on where to get an OEM one? Maybe an SVRider partout, I guess? I'm not sure how SV part interchangeability works. As far as I can tell all "second gen" parts for post 2003 models are interchangeable.
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Dec 8, 2019 05:41
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For odd/order-only OEM stuff I usually look on Motorcycle Spare Parts first. Put your bike make/model/year in, look through the parts diagrams for what you want, and if it's available to buy it'll tell you. They do ship worldwide though I'm not sure what the US rates are like. It also has a handy feature where it lists every other bike that uses that part, so even if they don't have it for sale you've got a shopping list of acceptable donors to take to a breaker's yard. e/ to save you a little time, here's the stand diagram for a 2005 SV650. Just the post (none of the bolts or anything) will set you back £90 off the shelf, so uhhhh yeah probably a breaker's yard or svrider would be a better, cheaper bet. Also you were right, looks like every 2004 and newer sv650 uses the same stand. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 10:13 on Dec 9, 2019 |
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Dec 9, 2019 10:06
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Is Fieldsheer going out of business or something? Revzilla basically doesn't carry them anymore, and it seems like they've discontinued a bunch of their product lines or something... Would be a shame, seems like they made decent stuff
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Dec 10, 2019 04:49
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Renaissance Robot posted:For odd/order-only OEM stuff I usually look on Motorcycle Spare Parts first. Put your bike make/model/year in, look through the parts diagrams for what you want, and if it's available to buy it'll tell you. They do ship worldwide though I'm not sure what the US rates are like. Putting 4231017G10 into ebay gets lots of hits
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Dec 10, 2019 05:16
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Oh yeah I forgot about googling the long part number, that works too.
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Dec 10, 2019 08:10
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I haven't figured out my boot sole fix or bought a new kickstand, which I probably will, but I wanted to stop in and say I borrowed a co-worker's tiny ozone generator, stuck my leathers in a big plastic bin with a lid, and put some foam weather stripping around it to try and air seal it, and ran it over night. And now my leathers don't smell like horrid BO. Ozone is magic. Here's the product if anyone else wants to try this: MAX Ozone Generator by BoneView, Odor Elimination System for Your Deer Hunting Gear Bag, Car, or Closet with Powerful Triple Oxygen Scent Crushing Technology at The Molecular Level https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07WFH4QJJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2178DbMRPB0G4
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Dec 13, 2019 17:34
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MetaJew posted:And now my leathers don't smell like horrid BO. I wish I had known this 24 months ago. I have a nappy bin that somehow smells like nothing that has gone in it.
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Dec 13, 2019 22:29
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I always thought ozone utterly destroys leather though... Does it only have that effect on rubbers and plastics? Back of the envelope thinking says that peptide bonds should get demolished, but I guess maybe the thickness of leather prevents that? Definitely don't do that to nylon anything. Nylon gets seriously degraded by ozone unless specially treated DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Dec 15, 2019 |
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Dec 15, 2019 07:27
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I'm gonna wager that doing it once in the ten years I've owned the leathers isn't going to do any significant damage.* And, they don't smell now. I see this as an absolute win. *I am not a chemist or familiar with what exactly the ozone is oxidizing to kill the smell. I have a full leather cleaning and conditioning kit I purchased from some motorcycle leathers shop that I'll probably apply to them when I have the energy.
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Dec 15, 2019 07:57
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Just curious, not actually planning to do this, but: Suppose my bike currently used a battery like this, which has 120 Cranking Amps and 6Amp Hours (PB Eq): https://www.antigravitybatteries-uk.co.uk/small-case-type-batteries/antigravity-battery-ag401.html And I replaced it with this, a more powerful battery with 480 Cranking Amps and 16Ah (PB Eq): https://www.antigravitybatteries-uk.co.uk/small-case-type-batteries/antigravity-battery-ag1601.html Would my bike catch fire, or explode, or burn out any electrical accessories? Would there be any negative effects at all?
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Dec 15, 2019 13:33
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Steakandchips posted:Just curious, not actually planning to do this, but: It’ll be fine. CCA are a lie (you know, more or less), and you should get the biggest LiFePO battery you can for your bike as a general rule.
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Dec 15, 2019 14:59
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builds character posted:It’ll be fine. CCA are a lie (you know, more or less), and you should get the biggest LiFePO battery you can for your bike as a general rule. Thank you. Very good to know, if I decide to make changes to a future bike.
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Dec 15, 2019 15:53
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builds character posted:It’ll be fine. CCA are a lie (you know, more or less), and you should get the biggest LiFePO battery you can for your bike as a general rule.  how is CCA a lie??And lifepo are a worthless pain in the rear end unless you're racing and really care about those extra grams. But it's true that any 12v battery that fits in the hole will work so just get the strongest that'll fit in the hole.
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Dec 15, 2019 18:24
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CCA isn't just some made-up concept, but it's very easy for manufacturers to exaggerate it. "Cold cranking amps" is a measure of how much current the battery can deliver in an idealized starting situation, and is a function of the internal battery resistance. If your battery has 480 CCA it should be able to deliver 480 amps to the starter motor -- assuming the motor is built to draw that much. If the motor is wound to only pull 150 amps at stall, then that's all it will ever consume and there's no point in getting a battery with 480 CCA, but it won't hurt anything. This is why it's easy for manufacturers to lie about it. They can say that their battery has 1,000,000 CCA and people will go wow, that's the one to get, best performance ever! but a battery with 200 CCA and 1000 CCA will perform equally well if your starter only draws 150A. On the other hand, if your starter can draw 500 amps and you put in a battery with 300 CCA, then you will have poor starting performance, especially at low temperatures. If you live in a place where it gets extremely cold it actually is worth oversizing your battery a little bit because the CCA figure is specified for a brand new battery at zero Fahrenheit. As it ages and temperatures drop, the capacity goes down. Voltage of course is much simpler: it needs to match. if the battery voltage and bike electrical system voltage don't match, something will blow up somewhere. tldr: Voltage: needs to match the factory specification CCA: equal or higher than the battery you took out Capacity (Ah): any value, but if it's lower than the battery you took out you will have fewer starting attempts Physical size: whatever you can cram into the battery box Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Dec 15, 2019 |
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Dec 15, 2019 18:51
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Anecdotally I've found higher CCA = longer lifespan in any given application, but I imagine that's more down to higher CCA = larger physical volume, so the plates and acid take longer to go bad. Also to make clear: there are only 6v and 12v bikes and if you've got a 6v you already know about it because you're posting on terriblegrampabikes.net, amp hours and physical configuration are the only important ones really. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Dec 15, 2019 |
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Dec 15, 2019 19:08
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Slavvy posted:Anecdotally I've found higher CCA = longer lifespan in any given application, but I imagine that's more down to higher CCA = larger physical volume, so the plates and acid take longer to go bad. Well ultimately what makes a battery "go bad" is that its current capacity drops to an unusable level. I'm sure you've seen the batteries that are totally dead and couldn't light up a flashlight while still reading 12 volts with no load. So if your battery starts out with a higher current capacity, it will just take longer to get to the point where it Is no longer usable for a given application. But yes current capacity is directly related to the physical size and surface area of the plates. Slavvy posted:
Well idk, I once went to a mechanic that said they carried batteries for vintage motorcycles and asked about a battery for my cl350, but they mostly did Harleys there, and the guy told me that if I tried to put one of his Harley batteries in my Honda it would be too powerful and "spin the engine like there were no spark plugs in it" So look out for that one Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Dec 15, 2019 |
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Dec 15, 2019 19:15
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Incredible. Especially in light of your Honda having more compression so it's actually harder to crank than a Harley proportionate to cc. You can bump start a well tuned evolution engine at walking speed by yourself.
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Dec 15, 2019 19:59
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Slavvy posted:Anecdotally I've found higher CCA = longer lifespan in any given application, but I imagine that's more down to higher CCA = larger physical volume, so the plates and acid take longer to go bad.  24 whole volts, baybee. I assume this is the same for all NATO forces motorbikes, but certainly British army bikes run on 24V for compatibility with radio and other kit. Also an Italian design modified by CCM with a Rotax engine built by Harley Davidson in the 90s. Actually maybe I should spoiler/  that last bit to protect you.
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Dec 15, 2019 20:28
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I love how it has a front drum because militaries are somehow even more resistant to change than the motorcycle industry. What is that bike even for it looks like a trials machine and the tank is tiny.
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Dec 15, 2019 20:37
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Slavvy posted:I love how it has a front drum because militaries are somehow even more resistant to change than the motorcycle industry. Reconnaissance and dispatch riding, so presumably it was designed entirely for offroad performance at some point in the 1970s. From memory it's actually pretty big, not nerdventure-sized but certainly around the same size as something like a KLR. Could be worse, the fact that it's the only vehicle in the whole inventory that runs on petrol means they've also experimented with this kind of perversion:  Originally a shadetree innovation when someone noticed that a diesel water pump engine could be dropped almost directly into an Enfield frame, then turned into an official product that the British and Indian Armies played with for a while, before turning to:  A KLR with the engine (very, very heavily) modified to run on diesel - produced for (and sold to) the British Army for a while (with a road-going version originally on the cards too) before they ditched the idea and sold all the remaining stock and spares to the USMC.
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Dec 15, 2019 21:20
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I've always wanted one of those diesel KLR's just to see how asymptotically close to motionless a bike can be while still technically having 'performance'.
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Dec 15, 2019 21:30
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I nearly bought one of those Armstrongs about four years ago when somebody stole my NTV. The kickstart is on the wrong side which put me completely off
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Dec 15, 2019 21:54
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As always, sagebrush has excellent advice and descriptions and his follow up to this post, if any, is correct. I was being imprecise when I said CCA is a lie. With respect to LiFePO batteries, CCA is useful as a marker against which to measure another LiFePO battery. But the problem is that the CCA for a LiFePO battery will be higher for how big it (how many amp hours it can deliver) is vs an equivalent lead acid battery. When this matters is only in situations where the battery is discharging without being charged. So, if you have a parasitic drain the LiFePO battery will drain more quickly than the equivalent lead acid battery (which is why you may find that you put in a LiFePO battery and it suddenly dies even though you usually only ride every weekend and it’s been fine). Also may be an issue for running heated gear or a ton of accessories or if you’re having difficulty starting the bike so you’re cranking it over a bunch. You see a huge CCA # and you’re used to thinking that’s shorthand for an equally large Ah number and it’s just not. Plus, there’s an issue with Ah in LiFePO batteries where manufacturers have more potential to fudge things a little because they talk about lead acid equivalent Ah which is because you can discharge LiFePO batteries more before they don’t provide appropriate voltage but of course everyone fudges this because they’re terrible. Anyway, I think LiFePO batteries are fantastic if 1. You can’t charge your bike and need to leave it outside in the winter but still ride in the winter. 2. You are a serious racer and need the weight reduction. 3. You like to play with interesting new toys. My favorite fwiw is still earthx. They have far and away the best warranty (full replacement value all the time, not prorated like antigravity and everyone else) and they have a good management system but they’re kind of lovely at marketing so I think antigravity is going to end up much bigger. Everyone else should just stick with AGM as they’re way cheaper.
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Dec 15, 2019 22:07
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I vividly remember the 2015 post classic season when the front half of the grid all fell for shorai's marketing, fitted them to their total loss bikes and spent the season DNFing and dropping thousands on replacement batteries.
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Dec 15, 2019 22:11
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builds character posted:As always, sagebrush has excellent advice and descriptions and his follow up to this post, if any, is correct. I think that if lead acid manufacturers start seriously feeling the burn from lithium battery sales (not particularly likely, but hey, who knows?) they would start fitting cheap voltage step up circuits ala joule thief onto AGMs. Then suddenly you can either cut the weight of the battery in half, or double its cranking time because the voltage doesn't sag anymore. Plus if you're cutting the amount of plate and acid in half, you might get away with a pretty nominal increase in cost too, since what you spend on the control circuit you can save on the actual cell.
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Dec 16, 2019 05:10
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I don't think you can make a "cheap voltage step-up circuit" that can handle hundreds of amps.
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Dec 16, 2019 05:32
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I mean, a 100amp 12vdc mosfet these days is like 10 bucks retail. I'm not saying it would cost a nickel, but if the competition is against lithium ion prices, where an 8 amp-hour (but not actually 8 amp hour) battery costs like 150 bucks, even if an AGM control circuit cost 50 dollars, you would still be undercutting the competition by half if you provided comparable performance.
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Dec 16, 2019 06:53
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I'd also think this wouldn't work, based on this nonsense product: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iEshd6izgk
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Dec 16, 2019 17:22
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Slavvy posted:I've always wanted one of those diesel KLR's just to see how asymptotically close to motionless a bike can be while still technically having 'performance'. There are literally thousands of MZs out there just waiting for your important scientific experiment.
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Dec 16, 2019 17:30
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goddamnedtwisto posted:There are literally thousands of MZs out there just waiting for your important scientific experiment. You joke but I guarantee I could make a hilarious profit if I ever got a hold of one.
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Dec 16, 2019 18:33
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Slavvy posted:You joke but I guarantee I could make a hilarious profit if I ever got a hold of one. How much would you need to get one for to be decently profitable?
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Dec 16, 2019 20:24
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Horse Clocks posted:How much would you need to get one for to be decently profitable?  I'm not going to discuss actual numbers, but I can say that registering an imported, full-sized bike (defined as anything over 600cc for tax purposes only) is a fixed cost of around a thousand bucks, being in the industry I'm able to shave a few grams from that slab by doing certain things 'manually' instead of paying a lump sum to have someone else do the fiddly poo poo.I say imported because acquiring such a bike in rideable condition, let alone road legal, in this country would mean dealing exclusively with the small cadre of extremist enthusiasts and deranged specialists who flock to any weird bike that's perceived as exotic or ~*European*~ and paying their ridiculous prices. It's cheaper to pay the above, plus the shipping costs to get a bike here, plus the parts etc to build it up, than it is to buy one locally. I'll let you extrapolate costs for yourself.
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Dec 16, 2019 23:28
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Ehh, was wearing my 48 Dainese Assen around the house yesterday and after some soul searching I’m just going to buy a sz 50 and try to flip the 48. It’s not tight in any places I can lose weight in — shoulders, arms, and I don’t want to settle for an ill fitting jacket just because I own it. I think I was trying to convince myself into saying “it’s probably fine” because I didn’t want to go to the trouble of replacing it when I also need to get better gloves etc. Always somewhere to put those moto bucks. I tried the 50 on in store and it definitely fit right where it wasn’t loose in the least but didn’t have that “ugh what, this is too tight” feeling to it. If anyone is interested in a 48 Dainese Assen worn like 45 minutes max at home and never once outside I will make you a good deal :P some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Dec 24, 2019 |
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Dec 24, 2019 17:36
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What gauntlet type gloves do you goons recommend? Should be waterproof at least. My leather halvarssons are ok but they dont hold any water at all and arent gauntlets so i need to tuck them every time.
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Dec 24, 2019 19:52
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If you want a winter glove with actual safety features the best I've tried is the Knox zero 3. This is a full winter glove with insulation. So many winter gloves skip on sliders and constuction safety, they're mostly skiing gloves with some rubber impact bits on the knuckles, no scapoid sliders. My brother has the Triumph Malvern which he really likes. It's a 2 in 1 solution, one unlined pocket for no insulation vs the grips and one pocket with insulation on both sides. These are though both more long winter gloves focused on staying warm safely than being a racing gauntlet.
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Dec 24, 2019 20:35
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Patrocclesiastes posted:What gauntlet type gloves do you goons recommend? Should be waterproof at least. My leather halvarssons are ok but they dont hold any water at all and arent gauntlets so i need to tuck them every time. I’ve been commuting in a set of alpinestars equinox gloves in ~20° weather with grip heaters and they’ve been great. used them in the rain up in portland and they’ve been great. don’t look dorky like knox gloves either 
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Dec 24, 2019 21:45
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Thanks for the recommendations, im most likely not going ride the bike during winter, just need something that would be waterproof and hopefully comfortable in 5 degree celsius at lowest. When it hit 25-30 c here this summer even the halvarssons were uncomfortable in the heat.
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Dec 25, 2019 20:34
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right arm posted:don’t look dorky like knox gloves either I like the “SPS” palm sliders things though. In a crash, your palms are one of the first things to hit the ground, right? I have short cuff gloves with the same sliders, but I want to get some gauntlets. Seems like only Knox and Racer have them? Maybe Alpinestar and Dianese have figured something else out that is a little more aesthetically pleasing.
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Dec 25, 2019 22:30
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Toe Rag posted:I like the “SPS” palm sliders things though. In a crash, your palms are one of the first things to hit the ground, right? I have short cuff gloves with the same sliders, but I want to get some gauntlets. Seems like only Knox and Racer have them? Maybe Alpinestar and Dianese have figured something else out that is a little more aesthetically pleasing. My A* have a little heel-of-the-palm slider plate but I don't know how much that stuff even matters. I've crashed in kangaroo leather gloves palm down around 100kmh, the gloves felt paper thin from new and had no plastic plates or anything, didn't get a single rip. Like yeah you crash palm down but you also aren't going a hand stand so they haven't got weight forcing them into the road like your pants and jacket do.
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Dec 25, 2019 22:50
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