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I had the drum brakes fail on my old inherited bubble Taurus on the highway. Pedal just went to the floor and stayed there. But I was able to pull the pedal back up with my toe and push it down again to get a little braking, and between that and letting off the gas I was able to get it off the road. But there was a heart stopping moment of panic when the car in front of me slowed and I hit the brake and nothing happened. I had to make a quick decision to go to the shoulder to not hit that guy, and almost ran over a poor guy coincidentally changing a tire. Like he literally had to dive out of the way like a 90s movie car chase.
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Dec 16, 2019 15:08
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| # ? May 27, 2024 05:05 |
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Imagined posted:I had the drum brakes fail on my old inherited bubble Taurus on the highway. Pedal just went to the floor and stayed there. But I was able to pull the pedal back up with my toe and push it down again to get a little braking, and between that and letting off the gas I was able to get it off the road. I had a similar situation in a bubble Taurus about 15 years ago. I was driving past a lane of stopped traffic on the freeway and a guy pulled out into my lane right in front of me, I hit the brakes harder than I ever have. I was able to slow down in time, but as I noticed further along the drive, the brakes kept getting worse. I didn't even drive home, just went right to the mechanic where I somehow managed to hit all the lights without having to try to stop, and barely stopped in the parking spot without driving into the building. The report was that the rear brake had "exploded."
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Dec 16, 2019 16:37
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Tangential, on a manual will popping the clutch stop you faster than braking with the car in gear? I have the habit of hitting the clutch when I'm emergency braking and hypothetically I would think that the car would stop faster without the resistance of the engine, but I don't know how significant it actually would be. Downshifting will slow you significantly, though popping the clutch is hard on everything. Just be sure not to overrev the engine (don't drop into 2nd at 90 mph for example) - know what the max speeds are for engine car in each gear. The rev limiter won't save your engine if you drop it into 2nd at 90 mph, it's still gonna rev up to 10 grand and turn a bunch of innie parts into outies. Or at the least, start telling knock knock jokes (I've learned both of these lessons the hard way). I wouldn't bother with downshifting unless you've already cooked the brakes (say, going down a long hill) or the brakes have failed. Otherwise just slam both the clutch and brake to the floor, assuming you have ABS. If you don't, brake as hard as possible without locking up the brakes, and throw in the clutch (but keep it in gear, so you can pop the clutch back out and keep it running for power steering, power brakes, etc if needed) so you don't stall the engine if you do lock up the brakes
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Dec 16, 2019 17:05
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I've always been apprehensive about smashing the brake pedal because I expect I'm gonna cause the brake lines to burst. None of my current vehicles have rusty lines and I expect brake lines have to hold up to a certain PSI. Am I just worried about nothing because modern vehicles with modern ABS shouldn't blow lines when stomping the pedal in an emergency?
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Dec 16, 2019 17:18
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Is it a mid 2000s GM? That's about the only generic criteria I'd be worried about the brake lines if you mash it. Otherwise, no, it's not going to explode if you brake suddenly. I guess maybe if you're parking it in the ocean? Don't do that.
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Dec 16, 2019 17:21
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That Taurus had about 8 years and 125k on it in the salt belt.
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Dec 16, 2019 17:30
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Reminds me of the time the throttle linkage in my '72 GMC 3/4 ton stuck while passing a slow car, so it basically stuck wide open with all four barrels screaming. I was picking up a lot of speed coming up on the next intersection at a red light with lots of cars and I panicked. I slammed on the brakes a few times with both feet and it basically had little to no effect. I was getting ready to throw it into neutral and let the motor go (not even thinking about cutting the ignition) when I had a moment of clarity thinking the linkage is probably stuck, so I stomped on the gas pedal as hard as I could and luckily it jarred the linkage loose and I was able to stop in time. I've never really panicked like that before, so my first reaction was to slam on the brakes which was really pretty dumb, and that not working kind of snapped me out of it and forced me to think my way out of it. I remember thinking, guess I'll have to blow the motor oh well 
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Dec 16, 2019 17:30
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Astoundingly Ugly Baby posted:I've always been apprehensive about smashing the brake pedal because I expect I'm gonna cause the brake lines to burst. None of my current vehicles have rusty lines and I expect brake lines have to hold up to a certain PSI. you should feel comfortable smashing the brakes with full force in any car made in the past 30 years. if you're not comfortable with this take the time to practice it a few times. obviously if your brakes dont feel like they work effectively during normal non-emergency braking, fix em before testing. but you should feel confident mashing the brakes as hard as you can.
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Dec 16, 2019 17:41
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I habitually drop anchor when I'm on a chunk of road by myself, especially if it's wet or if there's some snow accumulation. It's good for testing the conditions. If you don't know how fast you can stop, you're doing everyone around you a disservice.
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Dec 16, 2019 17:47
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Reminds me of the time the throttle linkage in my '72 GMC 3/4 ton stuck while passing a slow car, so it basically stuck wide open with all four barrels screaming. I've had throttles stick like that before, it sucks. First time was the 88 Accord, the cable had frayed and got stuck in the grommet. Wasn't WOT, but still about halfway; downshifted and just let it bang the rev limiter for a minute until I could kill it. Second time was... also an 88 Accord (different one), same failure mode.  Both times I just got it jammed to where it idled around 4k and controlled speed with what gear it was in, shutting it off when I would come to a stop. Cheaper than a tow...Redneck as hell, dangerous, but it worked. I (probably) wouldn't do that again today, since I'm a very firm believer in AAA now.
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Dec 16, 2019 18:32
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Reminds me of the time the throttle linkage in my '72 GMC 3/4 ton stuck while passing a slow car, so it basically stuck wide open with all four barrels screaming. Anything with vacuum boosted brakes (read: Most cars - hydroboost doesn't have the same problem) gets one shot at full power brakes when the throttle is stuck open. Stand on the brakes, the car will stop, turn it off. Do not let up. Cars that are even mildly maintained will have much more brake power than engine power. It is very much the exception for a car to have problems stopping their own engine power. xzzy posted:I habitually drop anchor when I'm on a chunk of road by myself, especially if it's wet or if there's some snow accumulation. It's good for testing the conditions.
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Dec 16, 2019 18:53
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ili posted:I don't know how many people would have the presence of mind to even go for the handbrake in an emergency braking situation anyway. From my limited experience the typical response is a white knuckled super grip on the steering wheel, eyes the size of pie plates and either stomping the middle pedal through the floor or not braking anywhere near hard enough. um excuse me posted:I mean I know right now that a hand brake is a way to slow down a car in motion(not safely), but would panicked um excuse me know? I'm not so certain. Having had a complete brake failure at 40mph approaching a junction, I confirm that you don't think of the handbrake until after you've finally stopped. You're in shock when the brake pedal clonks down to the firewall. In the moment, the instinct was to downshift and engine-brake, which got me slow enough to just make it round the roundabout without the truck toppling over sideways. *old Land Rover, single circuit brakes, and a brake booster that failed — the engine ingested all the brake fluid via the vacuum line 😱 meltie fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Dec 17, 2019 |
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Dec 16, 2019 18:58
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I spun my car into a ditch doing a "brake check" on an icy road when i was like 16. Turns out you want to be progressive about it to actually get a feel for traction and not just mash the brake pedal down.
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Dec 16, 2019 19:30
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Krakkles posted:The underlined part is the problem. I realized that after it was all over, that i probably should have just held it as hard as I could the first time but I was panicking. The truck was wide open and the first slam of the brakes barely did anything. It was an old POS truck so who knows what was going on with the brakes but i was shocked at how little effect they had.
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Dec 16, 2019 19:40
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What happens where full throttle doesn't create vacuum for the brake boost?
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Dec 16, 2019 20:08
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You don't get to stop: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZZNR9O3xZM
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Dec 16, 2019 20:14
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taqueso posted:What happens where full throttle doesn't create vacuum for the brake boost?
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Dec 16, 2019 20:27
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Pretty much exactly what happened to me, after the initial push there was nothing and I knew it wasn't getting slowed down by the brakes.
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Dec 16, 2019 20:31
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I mean, what causes no more vacuum in that situation? (I should probably read a wikipedia on it)
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Dec 16, 2019 21:01
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The vacuum for the brake booster is from the intake manifold (and on some cars, a vacuum reservoir). When the throttle is closed, or close to it (such as while cruising), there's plenty of vacuum. Once the EGR opens up, there's no vacuum at all. Generally there's a one-way check valve to retain whatever vacuum was already in the booster. If you've ever driven a 70s or 80s domestic, and wondered why the AC would suddenly shift to defrost when you hammered it, it's the same reason - all of that poo poo (brakes, AC controls, front hubs to go into 4x4, etc) was usually vacuum-operated back in the day,
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Dec 16, 2019 21:10
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taqueso posted:I mean, what causes no more vacuum in that situation? (I should probably read a wikipedia on it) The one way check he mentioned is what gives you one application of the brakes - the booster already has vacuum in it, but it can't get more vacuum because there's air pressure in the intake.
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Dec 16, 2019 21:23
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Glad I asked, that's pretty neat (and a big con from a controls standpoint!). Seems like there would have been requirements for electric backup pumps or maybe you could do a venturi vacuum using intake air? At the time I guess everyone was used to manual brakes so failing boost would just be returning to regular-rear end brakes. I remember my dad cursing the vacuum lines on the aerostar and suburban we had when I was a kid.
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Dec 16, 2019 21:35
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STR posted:If you've ever driven a 70s or 80s domestic, and wondered why the AC would suddenly shift to defrost when you hammered it, it's the same reason - all of that poo poo (brakes, AC controls, front hubs to go into 4x4, etc) was usually vacuum-operated back in the day, Something more people might have experienced: vacuum-operated wipers. Floor it or sit at high rpm and they get slower and slower, wonderful feature going up hill. I've driven a few step-vans with the old Perkins diesel. One full application of brakes is all you'll get before you may as well throw an anchor out the door. loving things were terrifying, fire all step-vans into the sun.
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Dec 16, 2019 21:41
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Once again GM takes the lead and decides that a vacuum pump/motor is a good thing. Until it fails.
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Dec 16, 2019 21:42
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Once again GM takes the lead and decides that a vacuum pump/motor is a good thing. Until it fails. Just like them ignition switches.
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Dec 16, 2019 22:08
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taqueso posted:Glad I asked, that's pretty neat (and a big con from a controls standpoint!). Seems like there would have been requirements for electric backup pumps or maybe you could do a venturi vacuum using intake air? At the time I guess everyone was used to manual brakes so failing boost would just be returning to regular-rear end brakes. Whenever the engine is not at full throttle, so most of the time, there's manifold vacuum. Also there's a check valve so the booster stays in vacuum even when the manifold is not. Plus you usually don't brake while at full throttle. It's been working great in, like, every car ever. Diesels, electric cars, and new stuff with fancy valve control (where being off throttle doesn't necessarily mean the plate is closed) do use separate vacuum pumps.
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Dec 16, 2019 22:36
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Yeah. HydroBoost (for instance) is really nice, but I see people swapping it into things because it's better packaging/smaller, not because it lets you brake under full throttle. I am curious if losing vacuum assist is akin to losing power steering, or if it returns fully to "they're just manual". I suspect it's the former, because I've driven lots of stuff without vacuum assist and they're not nearly as bad as any assisted car I've tried to brake without vacuum. (Meaning: If you lose power steering, the car is now a lot harder to control than an equivalent car with unassisted steering would be, because you're having to fight against the power rack, as well.)
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Dec 16, 2019 23:54
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Krakkles posted:Yeah. HydroBoost (for instance) is really nice, but I see people swapping it into things because it's better packaging/smaller, not because it lets you brake under full throttle. Closer to the it's just manual side, in my experience. Very stiff hard pedal, still functional, as in you can modulate the pressure and it's not just on off but if you're weak it's not going to get full force. Last time I ran out of gas in the International I got to arm wrestle it into a Dennys parking lot, the brakes were the least of my concern. Plus you've still got the leverage of the brake pedal on your side.
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Dec 17, 2019 00:21
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Krakkles posted:Yeah. HydroBoost (for instance) is really nice, but I see people swapping it into things because it's better packaging/smaller, not because it lets you brake under full throttle. Well losing power steering as a young kid is not fun. My mom was ferrying me to some activity. She is a small woman (but the type that would kick your rear end type). Flying along at around 50 on a state road, hearing the poo poo happen, and the words "I can't steer!" But she could still steer after a few brief moments. Went back around to pick up the power steering pulley on the road. Basically ripped in half and was still a little a hot to the touch picking it up.
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Dec 17, 2019 01:15
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Colostomy Bag posted:Once again GM takes the lead and decides that a vacuum pump/motor is a good thing. Until it fails. It's not really a decision anymore these days, downsized turbo engines can not generate sufficient vacuum even at low loads to generate the necessary brake force assistance. Also obicoulsy every diesel engine ever has a vacuum pump. There was a brief liaison in Germany with hydraulic power brakes but that was hosed up by being absolute cheap skates obviously when Mercedes decided to re use an ABS motor as the main hydraulic pump unit in their SBC brake while conveniently forgetting to implement caps that allow access to the motor brushes, which will wear out after some 10s of thousands kilometers and require the entire unit be changed. BMW had a better motor but cheaped out on the pressure reservoir which ate away its own internal seals, mixing brake fluid and nitrogen and giving you the perfect simulation of what boiling brakes feel like.
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Dec 17, 2019 08:07
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Dec 18, 2019 15:18
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfOZ-uajfNE
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Dec 18, 2019 17:02
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If both ends are independently driveable then definitely wrong thread.
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Dec 19, 2019 17:49
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Spotted in a Target parking lot today:  There wasn't one on the other side, nor were there any other out of place things on the car. No idea what this is for other than destroying people's kneecaps.
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Dec 19, 2019 23:27
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A convenient hood tie-down
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Dec 19, 2019 23:29
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Battery disconnect?
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Dec 19, 2019 23:32
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It's a battery disconnect, that's a race car.
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Dec 19, 2019 23:33
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Powershift posted:It's a battery disconnect, that's a race car. Surely it's a redneck engineered thing to stop the battery draining because their home-installed stereo or something draws power even when the ignition is off.
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Dec 20, 2019 00:49
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That's a sweet rear end sleeper race car
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Dec 20, 2019 00:49
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Is it a SHO?
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Dec 20, 2019 00:59
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