|
Furism posted:I lost the instruction sheet for a GW miniature. It's a bit of a complicated mini (the Rockgut Troggoths), with lots of customization options, so it's a nightmare to figure it out. Is there anyway to get the PDF somewhere? You can either search r/warhammerinstructions or just email gw.
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2019 14:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 12:11 |
|
|
Yeah, if you just mail GW customer service that you've lost the instruction sheet for a model they will just mail a PDF scan of it back to you. I've done it a couple of times for sets I've won over auctions and it's really nice.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2019 14:21
|
|
|
Booley posted:You can either search r/warhammerinstructions or just email gw. Awesome, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2019 14:28
|
|
|
queef anxiety posted:Base with temple guard blue, wash with dameonette hide and lahmian medium, wash with medium and screamer pink . Heavy Dry brush Temple guard blue, dry brush gauss flayer green on edges and wherever you feel like. Thanks. Tried this last night with similar colors I have and it didn't come out nearly as well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2019 15:49
|
|
|
Cat Face Joe posted:Thanks. Tried this last night with similar colors I have and it didn't come out nearly as well. I normally wash the daemonette hide 2:1 medium/hide and the screamer pink really watered down at 4:1. The gauss blaster green is pretty important and a really underrated paint in general imo baharroth blue might be a cool but very bright alternative ? queef anxiety fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Dec 19, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 00:15
|
|
|
Brush-on primer is the bane of my modeling existence. I have the Vallejo gray acrylic poly brush-on stuff and no matter how much I shake it it doesn't seem to be consistent. If I don't water it back it goes on thick and uneven, if I do water it back it runs into the crevices and dulls the definition. Either way I never get a clean, even coverage on my special little guys. I think I'll just get some spray primer and risk it in the less-than-ideal seasonal conditions.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 02:38
|
|
|
Is it just a lovely bottle? Did it freeze? Is it really old?
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 04:04
|
|
|
I don't have grey, but I have black, white, and UK Bronze Green Vallejo brush-on primers, and the only issue I've ever had is the white usually takes about two coats to get proper coverage. I'm pretty sure it shrinks as it dries so as long as you don't coat it like the tar thing from Star Trek the details will be fine in the end.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 04:14
|
|
|
That's pretty standard with the vallejo in my experience, and you probably shouldn't be using water. You pretty much just need to prime it one time however streaky it looks, then move on to a proper undercoat with a regular acrylic. edit: I don't recommend more than one coat, it can build up in any corners or crevices pretty badly. The black brush on covers decently though, but the hassle is what made me finally buy an airbrush and it's my favorite hobby purchase ever.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 04:15
|
|
|
dexefiend posted:Is it just a lovely bottle? Did it freeze? Is it really old? dunno, no, no I bought it this summer and had problems from the get go at first I thought brush-on priming was inherently lovely but now I'm thinking maybe I got a dud bottle, I've had it sitting upside-down for a couple of days and I'm going to shake it like it for 10 mins before I try it again and if it's still lovely I'll give up on it
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 04:50
|
|
|
Filthy Hans posted:dunno, no, no I bought it this summer and had problems from the get go drop a bb or two in it and then shake it up, it may need help mixing the pigment into the medium.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 05:39
|
|
|
Cricken_Nigfops posted:drop a bb or two in it and then shake it up, it may need help mixing the pigment into the medium. thanks, I'll try that
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 05:48
|
|
|
Filthy Hans posted:Brush-on primer is the bane of my modeling existence. I have the Vallejo gray acrylic poly brush-on stuff and no matter how much I shake it it doesn't seem to be consistent. If I don't water it back it goes on thick and uneven, if I do water it back it runs into the crevices and dulls the definition. Either way I never get a clean, even coverage on my special little guys. I think I'll just get some spray primer and risk it in the less-than-ideal seasonal conditions. A few youtubers did some extensive seasonal testing with rattlecan primers (Miniac comes to mind) and concluded that as long as the cans were kept indoors and you dried the minis indoors the application outdoors in heat/cold dryness/humidity was negligible if not altogether unnoticeable.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 06:35
|
|
|
is there anything wrong with just dumping flow improver straight into my pots
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 06:49
|
|
|
Doorknob Slobber posted:is there anything wrong with just dumping flow improver straight into my pots So long as the consistency you get with that is what you want. Reaper's paint notably comes with more flow improver than other lines.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 06:57
|
|
|
Filthy Hans posted:dunno, no, no I bought it this summer and had problems from the get go Odds are its a dud, my white is the same way but my black is perfect right out of the bottle
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 07:04
|
|
|
Like I said, it's not a dud, it's normal for the lighter colored vallejo primers. The black has better pigment coverage if that's what you want.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 07:15
|
|
|
Doing some terrain 
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 07:23
|
|
|
JackMann posted:So long as the consistency you get with that is what you want. Reaper's paint notably comes with more flow improver than other lines. Yeah like there is no rule do whatever you want to get what you want. That being said the main difference between regular thinner and flow improver is basically a drop of soap. Flow improver is reducing surface tension more due to that so if it’s a cost issue just add a drop of cleaning solution to your thinner. Idgaf so I just have a ton of Vallejo flow improver.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 07:57
|
|
|
is airbrush priming basically cheat mode? literally the first time i ever used my airbrush i loaded some cheap grey primer from humbrol into it, sprayed it on a few space marines and it went on perfectly. it took a fair bit longer than a rattle can but the end result was so loving smooth
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 10:02
|
|
|
jesus WEP posted:is airbrush priming basically cheat mode? literally the first time i ever used my airbrush i loaded some cheap grey primer from humbrol into it, sprayed it on a few space marines and it went on perfectly. it took a fair bit longer than a rattle can but the end result was so loving smooth Yes. 100%
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 10:11
|
|
|
Anybody got hot tips, tricks, and idiot-proof approaches for a novice painter trying checkerboard and harlequin patterns? Transfers? How do those work? Thanks mates
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 11:40
|
|
|
I’ve painted a few checked patterns on my orks, and always had good success getting my lighter colour down, drawing out the grid with a mechanical pencil, and painting the darker colour into the appropriate squares
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 11:45
|
|
|
jesus WEP posted:is airbrush priming basically cheat mode? literally the first time i ever used my airbrush i loaded some cheap grey primer from humbrol into it, sprayed it on a few space marines and it went on perfectly. it took a fair bit longer than a rattle can but the end result was so loving smooth Yup. I feel like I had a 33% chance of loving up rattle cans somehow and brush on never worked that well for me, but airbrush priming pretty much always works perfectly.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 12:02
|
|
|
There is no such thing as cheating when it comes to painting models, geez.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 13:11
|
|
|
Yes there is! Using a brush is cheating, finger painting is the only true way. Premade paint is also cheating, go out to smush some berries, grind up some rocks and ores and stop being such a cheater.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 13:39
|
|
|
I don't think anyone is using "cheating" in that way. Might be ok to calm down a lot.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 13:40
|
|
|
Airbrush priming is so simple and easy and fast that it's worth the purchase of a cheap airbrushing rig by itself. Bonus points if you get a nicer setup and start using it for real-deal airbrushing.No. 1 Apartheid Fan posted:Anybody got hot tips, tricks, and idiot-proof approaches for a novice painter trying checkerboard and harlequin patterns? Are you spraying or brushing on? Either way, as much as setup is going to be a pain in the rear end, your best bet is going to be masking off your pattern. Use tiny tape or cut it into the right spots with a hobby knife, then seal the edges of the tape. You can either do this with gloss varnish like me if you're lazy, or another coat of your base layer of paint. You can freehand it, but you'll probably want to at least sketch out your grid first. Transfers are pretty simple. Get them wet, gently pull them off the backing, and plop them onto your model. Using tweezers to pull and position them will make your life easier, and if you wet the area where you're going to place the decal it'll give you a little more time to position it. Be careful not to rip the decal, since they're pretty fragile. Smoother surfaces are more better, so you should consider gloss varnishing the whole thing before you apply your decal. Some decal softener will help the transfer conform to the surface of your model, so if you're using something with a lot of complex surface detail or curvature, you'll probably want to do so. Plus, it looks nicer. After that, put your topcoat over the decal so it doesn't stand out as much. If you're talking about using transfers to put a checked pattern on a model, give up now and just do it with masking. That's some miserable poo poo right there, and freehanding the whole thing would take less time and be less frustrating.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 15:07
|
|
|
queef anxiety posted:I normally wash the daemonette hide 2:1 medium/hide and the screamer pink really watered down at 4:1. The gauss blaster green is pretty important and a really underrated paint in general imo Thanks again but it's probably a lack of skill combined with the model I'm testing it on being flatter than the plague marine. I'll keep at it tho.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 15:10
|
|
|
Harvey Mantaco posted:Doing some terrain Those are excellent. I really like the colors you chose
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 16:22
|
|
|
Sharks Dont Sleep posted:A few youtubers did some extensive seasonal testing with rattlecan primers (Miniac comes to mind) and concluded that as long as the cans were kept indoors and you dried the minis indoors the application outdoors in heat/cold dryness/humidity was negligible if not altogether unnoticeable. That's essentially what I've been doing. I tac the models down to some cardboard, take it outside, spray it with white or black matte krylon paint, and bring it inside for priming. I'd hate to leave them out in the garage to dry though. Although I haven't been bringing the cans indoors, I might try that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 16:37
|
|
|
Not quite on topic but since this thread is brand agnostic I figured someone might know. Does anyone recognise this StarCraft mini? I found this article that says there was a StarCraft WotC line shown at GenCon in the early 2000s, but I can't find any additional info about it or the game. I guess I can try contacting WotC or Blizz, but thought I'd try here first.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 21:49
|
|
|
The article says they were "on their way" to happening, suggesting they didn't reach full production. There's a similar-ish Dark Templar action figure that ended up coming out at one point, but it's not an unpainted mini. http://www.wecollectgames.com/dc-unlimited-starcraft-ii-series-1-10%E2%80%B3-collector-action-figure-protoss-dark-templar-zeratul/
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 21:55
|
|
|
Its a bit before my time but, WotC produced a Starcraft tabletop RPG around 2000, these were probably part of that line, but the product flopped and so I'm guessing the minis never went to market. There are Starcraft minis as part of the Starcraft Board Game, they're not very large but they're still cool (and it's a pretty good big box strategy game). There was also a couple of attempts by Upper Deck to create Starcraft collectible minis back when Wizkids was killing it with Heroclicks, but the market (and Upper Deck) collapsed before anything beyond prototypes were created.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 22:01
|
|
|
Brinty posted:Yes there is! Using a brush is cheating, finger painting is the only true way. Just lol if you use pigments that weren't produced by your own body.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 22:22
|
|
|
The Moon Monster posted:Just lol if you use pigments that weren't produced by your own body. Writing a stipulation in my will that I am to become Mummy Brown in death and used to paint some rad skeletons or maybe a cool hydra.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 22:34
|
|
|
I am getting 16 new paints coming in the mail today.  Kislev Flesh Stegadon Scale Green Thunderhawk Blue Fenrisian Grey Seraphim Sepia Ushabti Bone Evil Sunz Scarlet Carroburg Crimson Fire Dragon Bright Temple Guard Blue Baharroth Blue Yriel Yellow Ironbreaker Stormhost Silver Lahmian Medium White Scar
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2019 23:04
|
|
|
A little bird told me that I'll be receiving an airbrush this holiday. One of the Iwata Neo gravity feeds with a decent but cheap tanked compressor. Is there anything I need to know before binge watching youtube tutorials on how to use it? One thing I've always wondered is how long it takes to switch colors, do you need to run cleaner through it every time or can you just drop some water in?
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2019 01:42
|
|
|
The Moon Monster posted:Just lol if you use pigments that weren't produced by your own body. I've been painting with my own earth tones since I was a baby
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2019 01:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 12:11 |
|
|
Finally finished an Intercessor squad:
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2019 02:00
|
|
