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blk posted:OK I'm liking my NC better now with Koni yellows and progress springs/sways; it pretty gud. Why doesn't Mazda just make them like this out of the box? Don't tell anyone, but... They were built to a price point.
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Oct 28, 2019 12:46
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blk posted:OK I'm liking my NC better now with Koni yellows and progress springs/sways; it pretty gud. Why doesn't Mazda just make them like this out of the box? They do, it's the Club package.
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Oct 28, 2019 14:38
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Applebees Appetizer posted:They do, it's the Club package. Ehhhhhhhhhh
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Oct 28, 2019 14:46
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I mean, it's not like he put a set of Fat Cats on it or something
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Oct 28, 2019 15:15
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I've noticed my exhaust sounds raspy as hell when the engine is cold, there's black soot near the pipe on the bumper, and fuel economy is down to 26, and it's kinda stinky in the car. Do I have a stuck injector or a bad O2 sensor? Reference 95 1.8L
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Nov 13, 2019 02:40
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Time to read the codes from the ECU.
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Nov 13, 2019 11:21
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Wibla posted:Time to read the codes from the ECU. There's no CEL, no downstream O2 sensor, no OBD2, therefore no codes. On the bright side I don't get smogged anymore and inspections are $7.
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Nov 13, 2019 11:27
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No CEL doesn't mean something isn't off, and you can still read codes from the ECU without OBD2.
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Nov 13, 2019 11:33
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Wibla posted:No CEL doesn't mean something isn't off, and you can still read codes from the ECU without OBD2. Shunt the diagnostics terminals and read the blinks? drat it's been a long time since I've done that. M.net seems to agree a faulty ECU temp sensor (in the water block at the back of the head where the heater hoses come out) can make it run like rear end and get lovely mileage.
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Nov 13, 2019 11:37
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BloodBag posted:Shunt the diagnostics terminals and read the blinks? drat it's been a long time since I've done that. M.net seems to agree a faulty ECU temp sensor (in the water block at the back of the head where the heater hoses come out) can make it run like rear end and get lovely mileage. Yeah, you also get a plug-in thing that's pretty neat, but it's like $40.
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Nov 13, 2019 11:47
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BloodBag posted:I've noticed my exhaust sounds raspy as hell when the engine is cold, there's black soot near the pipe on the bumper, and fuel economy is down to 26, and it's kinda stinky in the car. Do I have a stuck injector or a bad O2 sensor? Reference 95 1.8L My 91 1.6L had a very similar issue and I threw an O2 sensor at it. Solved everything, wasn't expensive or very hard to replace.
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Nov 13, 2019 19:10
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sirr0bin posted:My 91 1.6L had a very similar issue and I threw an O2 sensor at it. Solved everything, wasn't expensive or very hard to replace. Turns out I have a pretty good pre-cat exhaust leak again. Still wouldn't hurt to change the O2 sensor, the thing's probably 25 years old at this point. Soooo... Jackson racing or racing beat headers? Something that makes the BP not sound like angry bees with diarrhea? I miss the MZR in the NC because it sounded so good with a roadstersport 2.
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Nov 16, 2019 12:12
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I have racing beat header on my 95 and it went on easily and looks super cool. I paired it with a magnaflow cat and cobalt pipe/muffler in the back and I think it sounds pretty good for an I4, really fun in tunnels.
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Nov 16, 2019 18:24
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Arby's
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Nov 16, 2019 19:16
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Phone posted:Arby's I like their chicken & bacon sandwich.
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Nov 16, 2019 20:12
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I believe the RB header is pretty much the defacto standard as far as I'm aware.
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Nov 18, 2019 00:48
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Been helping my mate put his 2009 nc back together with non crusty everything. Is there anything I should watch out for when putting the PPF back on? Like we have it all on now but it looks like there is some notched parts so you can adjust it somewhat? Also is it better to torque all the suspension bolts up once we have the wheels on? I mean it's gonna be a bit of a pain access wise with ramps. I know it sounds a bit stupid but I've only worked on basic mcstrut suspension cars so all this ppf and double wishbone stuff is a bit new to me haha. my mr2 suspension feels so basic compared to the mx5 track day bro! fucked around with this message at 11:44 on Nov 18, 2019 |
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Nov 18, 2019 11:42
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track day bro! posted:Also is it better to torque all the suspension bolts up once we have the wheels on? I mean it's gonna be a bit of a pain access wise with ramps. Put a jack under the knuckle and jack up until the car starts lifting off the jackstand at that corner, that should have the suspension at enough load that you can tighten the various bolts. (without the wheels on. I doubt you'd have enough clearance to torque anything otherwise.
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Nov 18, 2019 15:22
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Ah that makes sense, there are quite a few bolts that would be pretty much impossible to torque with everything assembled and the wheel on.
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Nov 18, 2019 15:27
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Selling the best repair manual made for the NA (1.8) Miata - The EAC Enthusiast's Workshop Manual It's the same as this one, but with an orange cover: https://www.ebay.com/i/173963550316...RsaAiMlEALw_wcB Paid $60, selling for $30 shipped. In good condition. Also selling a Thomson disappearing front plate mount: https://www.thompson-automotive.com/disappearing_plate.html $15 shipped
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Nov 22, 2019 19:38
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My wife's NB2 (VVT) Miata threw another timing belt less than 30 miles after replacement. It ran and drove fine until she went to start it after driving it to work. When I was putting the engine back in alignment to time it, I noticed the intake cam was extremely high effort to move before turning as freely as it should. Is it possible it has a sticky valve or a bad spot on the bearings? Is there something else I should check before I pull the head?
Wrar fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Dec 16, 2019 |
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Dec 16, 2019 04:28
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Nobody knows? 
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Dec 20, 2019 19:25
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I'm not very experienced with head related issues but if you're saying the intake cam requires substantially more effort to turn over compared to the exhaust the exhaust cam I would begin looking at the bearings as well. Is there any possibility the valve shim clearances on the intake side are out of spec as well?
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Dec 20, 2019 20:25
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Possibility it ate some foreign object in the past and has a slightly bent valve?
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Dec 20, 2019 22:22
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Bent valve, crusty valve guide, jacked bearing surfaces. You'd have to at least pull the cam out.
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Dec 21, 2019 07:01
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Miata motors are cheap enough, find a good one and swap it out, it will be a lot less time consuming and probably cheaper than having the head rebuilt. And who knows what else is wrong, if the head is hosed up the bottom end might have issues too. Then sell the bad motor and let someone else try to figure it out 
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Dec 22, 2019 16:03
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I picked up an ND 2 at the beginning of December. I took it on a bit of a road trip this week and hit up Skyline Drive in Virginia on Christmas eve. I think in the 3 hours I was driving on that road I only saw one other car. It was incredible. Easily the most fun drive I've been on. Unfortunately, I also learned that driving a car with stock brake pads down a 3000 ft mountain at like 9/10ths is a great way to glaze your brake pads. Anyone have a good recommendation for a replacement/upgrade for the factory Brembos? Also, is it a bad idea to just upgrade the front pads and keep the rear stock? Will that have a large impact on the brake bias?
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Dec 27, 2019 17:38
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What gear were you in for that descent?  And you're most likely fine just swapping the front pads, as long as you don't go too hardcore on the pads.
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Dec 27, 2019 18:06
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I was in 3rd most of the time but I was definitely charging corners a bit too hard. It was fine for awhile, then I started to smell the pads... and then the brakes did pretty much nothing even when standing on them. I haven't actually taken the wheels off yet and checked the pads but I assume they're toast. I checked the brake fluid levels and they're fine. IDK if they possibly just need to be bled though. The brake pedal feels pretty soft and I can't modulate the brakes very much at all. So I'm not sure if I actually glazed the pads or if there is just air in the line. I've never ran into this issue before so I'm not sure what things I should be checking first.
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Dec 27, 2019 18:14
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Time to flush the brake fluid, it boiled in the lines and is now worthless.
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Dec 27, 2019 18:17
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If the brake pedal stayed firm but they just didn't work, that's cooked pads. If it went to the floor, that's boiled fluid. When I change pads I like to open the bleeders and push the old fluid out when I compress the pistons instead of pushing it back up in the lines which means a bleed every time anyway. Stoptech's sport pads (309 prefix) and Ferodo's ds2500 are a couple of decent street performance type pads that will hold up to more abuse and still work when cold.
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Dec 27, 2019 18:28
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Awesome. Thanks for the replies. I'll get it flushed and put some RBF600 in it.
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Dec 27, 2019 18:45
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boiling your fluid is a new miata owner pastime
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Dec 27, 2019 18:46
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Enjoy these bad photos my brother took of me out at Driveway Austin during their Christmas Time Attack. I really need to put a race seat in this thing. Nothing like having to scrunch my entire body to fit with a helmet on.    E: best time of the day was 42 and some change. I can't drive. Diametunim fucked around with this message at 10:08 on Dec 29, 2019 |
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Dec 29, 2019 01:35
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Got what I think is a fuel problem with my Miata. It's fine on the first start, but say if I drive to the shops, when I go to drive home it will struggle to start and once it does it struggles to stay running. I got told maybe an injector gets stuck open but idk. If I give it throttle it will keep running, poorly, down on power, but if I don't it will quickly die
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Dec 30, 2019 07:30
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Sounds like a warm start problem? Those can be fun. If it runs fine otherwise, I wouldn't blame the injectors right off the bat.
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Dec 30, 2019 17:07
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Wibla posted:Sounds like a warm start problem? Those can be fun. If it runs fine otherwise, I wouldn't blame the injectors right off the bat. Any other ideas?
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Dec 30, 2019 23:25
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What year and what color
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Dec 31, 2019 02:38
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underage at the vape shop posted:Got what I think is a fuel problem with my Miata. It's fine on the first start, but say if I drive to the shops, when I go to drive home it will struggle to start and once it does it struggles to stay running. I got told maybe an injector gets stuck open but idk. If I give it throttle it will keep running, poorly, down on power, but if I don't it will quickly die Throwing out some quick ideas. 1) Fuel pressure regulator issue or vapor lock issues when the car gets hot? I had a problem with similar symptoms on my 1999 Honda Accord V6. Car would start cold and run fine then after sitting hot for 20-30 minutes the car would become hard to to start and wouldn't stay running unless I gave it extra gas for a 30-45 second period then it would run fine. This idea doesn't match up with your down on power during the drive home though. 2) Fuel Filter? Is it possible there's sediment blocking the flow through the filter after the car has been running for an extended period of time. When the car is off and sitting for a while it's possible the sediment could settle out. 3) How many miles are on the car and when is the last time you've had the valves adjusted? My hunch on this one is that when the car gets hot the valve clearances tighten up out of spec which would cause your poor running conditions at temperature. When the car sits for a little while the valves contract and the clearances loosen up. 4) Coolant sensor issues? I believe I read on SuperMiata that if the Miata ECU believes the car is running hot it will begin to retard the timing on the motor to the point of poor performance.
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Dec 31, 2019 21:38
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Just wanted to chime in from Alabama. I've never seen so many Miatas in one place. I lost count today when a pack of them sped down the parkway.
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Dec 31, 2019 23:16
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