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punished milkman
Dec 5, 2018

would have won
Looking to buy a used SUV/crossover thing in the next few weeks. I was at first looking at models like the CRV, Forester and RAV4, but I'm finding any model >2017 is a bit more than I want to spend.

I then discovered the KIA Sportage, and it looks pretty great to me on paper for the price. I'm seeing relatively new models (2017-2019) around $20,000 CAD which is what I'm aiming for. I don't know poo poo about cars - is this a solid vehicle? It's going to be driven maybe twice a week for errands and also for the occasional big road trip. I'm not a driving enthusiast and just need something safe and reliable.

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KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
the sportage is perfectly fine if you can accept how god drat ugly it is. the hyundai tucson is generally the same thing but not ugly.

the theta engine series from hyundai and kia is not very reliable so don't get that one. that would be the 2.0 and the 2.4.

punished milkman
Dec 5, 2018

would have won
Uh that seems bad. I'm pretty out of my element but it looks like all of the Sportage models, including the new ones, have the problematic Theta II engine?

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
i thought you could get the small turbo Gamma but evidently no

in that case i would avoid the twins

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.
That's a shame. My mom had an '04 and it was a great lil SUV. Probably her favorite car (RIP).

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

I wish I could find something like my 2008 Saturn vue. There’s nothing I didn’t like about that car.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002

nwin posted:

I wish I could find something like my 2008 Saturn vue. There’s nothing I didn’t like about that car.
I had a Saturn Vue for like a month and it was terrible on fuel, had awful interior, mono stereo, oxcart handling and suspension, and turn signal bulbs burned out twice in that short period. I don't know what your automotive references are like, but Honda Pilot felt like Starship Enterprise by comparison.

Chunjee
Oct 27, 2004

I had a 2009 Vue and it was pretty poo poo but probably an ok Grandma car. Hybrid 4cyl so it was also completely underpowered.

nwin posted:

Here’s our wants:

Price: under 27k
Type: suv (we have a kid and that’s what my wife prefers to drive)
Wants: apple CarPlay integration, good visibility, maybe something that doesn’t require an expensive windshield if it gets cracked, blind spot monitoring.

2007-2017 Tiguan 2L TDI 4cyl

CornHolio
May 20, 2001

Toilet Rascal

CornHolio posted:

My mom wants to get rid of her huge Lexus SUV (RX350 I think?) and replace it with something smaller, easier to handle and without the crazy levels of tech that she doesn't know how to use. She has her eye on a Mazda CX-5. Those are a decent pick, right?

Following up on this, tonight we're going to go look at a couple of cars. A CX-5, which she likes the look of, and a Lexus UX 250H. Fairly far apart, but price isn't an issue for her. She wants something smaller and easier to use than her RX350. She really likes how Lexus treats her, which is why she's looking at another Lexus.

What should I know about these two vehicles before we go drive them?

I'm also hoping to get her to drive a Mercedes (whatever their new smaller CUV is called, I hear it has really good reviews).

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
The interior is a high point in the Mazda, especially in it's price point. The Lexus will be nicer in basically every way. They're not really competitors. It's like my mom driving a CR-V and the XC40. The luxury brands are 50% more, and that money isn't going to nothing. If she's used to the Lexus, the Mazda will feel mid-rent.

If she's quirky, try the XC40, it's a great vehicle and my 68-year old mom adapted to the tech very quickly.

I've not heard anything good about the Mini-Merc GLA. The interior is very cheap, and there's very little storage. It's sporty in higher trims but IMHO it's poor value for money.

sharkytm fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Dec 26, 2019

El Spamo
Aug 21, 2003

Fuss and misery
Well, my 10 year old toyota corolla has gotten beat up enough that I'm going to make a serious push to replace it. It's been a remarkably capable car, being able to haul sheets of drywall, lumber, and camping gear on either the roof rack or trunk. However, the next vehicle is something that I'd like to be able to be more capable at that hauling situation since I want to start doing more landscaping and outdoor work as well as other small-scale construction projects like sheds and tables and such.

Anyway, here's the template
Proposed Budget: 35k

New or Used
Either, but probably not > 3 years old for used unless it's really good. Modern tech is really tempting.

Body Style
Mid-sized, ideally hybrid SUV (ex: Outback or Rav4) OR truck in the ~Tacoma-ish sized range. >5 foot bed would be nice.

How will you be using the car?
Hauling light-duty home improvement supplies. 8ft lengths of lumber, plywood sheets, bags of cement, 1-2 cu. yards of landscaping material. For the SUV, having a tow hitch means I can get a modest trailer that can support those tasks.
For fishing and camping, something capable of handling forest roads and mild off-roading. Deep ruts, loose dirt, maybe some streams. NOT boulders or big rocks. For the SUV, I'd like to be able to tow a small trailer camper, one of those little flyweight teardrops.
I work from home, so I'm either driving super-short trips to the store or driving 300 miles to a campground.
The standard 4-person seating capacity is sufficient, it's usually just me, my girlfriend, and my dog.


What aspects are most important to you?
Reliability is a high priority, I'd like my next car to be as tough and enduring as my little corolla.
Newer tech like adaptive cruise and safety sensors are really attractive, and a hybrid vehicle is as well due to an itch of trying to be environmentally responsible in some way or another. Just being good with gas mileage is good too, which is an issue with trucks.
Vehicle class is first (i.e. truck, suv), then choosing the vehicle in that class that is the better hauler. Given my corolla has been able to handle hauling house building materials, anything I get will improve on that.
Cost I think is more about gas & maintenance. I can afford a decent car, so hopefully I can stretch my dollar by buying something that'll last a good long time. I'm good at making sure I take my car to the shop regularly. Getting something that's hard for the local mechanic to service would be a bad idea though. I live in the U.S., in the southwest.
I don't want something massive, a smaller vehicle is easier to maneuver in tight little campgrounds and trails.

So far I've been browsing Carvana, and making some fantasy builds on the manufacturer's sites. So far I've liked these in a very rough order of preference:
Toyota Rav4 Hybrid
Crosstrek Plugin Hybrid (apparently really hard to get in the southwest)
Toyota Tacoma ($$$)
Subaru Outback (not a hybrid :( )
2016-2019 flavors of Silverados, Titans, and Tundras distressingly all in white or silver.

I just started looking, so it's not a long list yet. What am I overlooking that are contemporaries to the ones I've mentioned? There's Nissan and Honda for the SUV thing maybe a euro import might not be a bad idea (volvo? audi?)? American trucks can end up being big chonkers, which is why I've really only looked at the Toyota/Nissan ones so far.

Cory Parsnipson
Nov 15, 2015
Hey all, I hope I can get some advice. I'm in the process of getting burned by my 2013 Jetta hybrid, which just had the transmission poo poo itself last week. I had to tow it to the dealer who told me it would be $8100 to replace the whole thing. (Incidentally that's $1-2000 more than the remaining value of the car. Go figure) I bought this thing cause it looked cool and I got a huge rebate, but I was young and dumb(er) and I ignored everyone telling me European cars were high maintenance.

I'm thinking of selling this and buying a newer, saner car. Currently split between a new Honda Civic EX, a Honda Insight, or a used mazda3 from 2014-2016. The idea is to go for a more reliable, cheaper maintenance car.

I'm curious about the insight because it's exciting and not much more than a new civic but I feel like I'm falling into the same trap. Does anyone have experience with the new 2019 or 2020 Insight? It's so new that there isn't much online.

1. I'm concerned that since it's a new design there'll be issues, despite being a Honda. I don't want to be in the shop every 3 months like I am now..

2. Will it be impossible to repair myself since it will have a lot of fancy hybrid poo poo?

3. Also being a hybrid, does anyone know if it will be hard to find mechanics? I don't really want to be stuck with the dealership.

I need a commuter car and don't drive too far (~10k a year) that I can drive and forget about. Should I just stick with the civic (the main sticking point for me is the fuel efficiency)? And lastly what do people think of Civic vs Mazda?

E. I've rubber ducked myself. Clearly the Civic/Mazda is what I need. Still super curious to know what people think of the new Insight though. Thanks!

Cory Parsnipson fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Dec 29, 2019

plester1
Jul 9, 2004





El Spamo posted:

Well, my 10 year old toyota corolla has gotten beat up enough that I'm going to make a serious push to replace it. It's been a remarkably capable car, being able to haul sheets of drywall, lumber, and camping gear on either the roof rack or trunk. However, the next vehicle is something that I'd like to be able to be more capable at that hauling situation since I want to start doing more landscaping and outdoor work as well as other small-scale construction projects like sheds and tables and such.

Body Style
Mid-sized, ideally hybrid SUV (ex: Outback or Rav4) OR truck in the ~Tacoma-ish sized range. >5 foot bed would be nice.

Have you had a chance to sit in a Rav4 yet? I don’t think anyone considers them mid-sized, they’re quite compact and not in the same class as an Outback, let alone a pickup truck. If you’re aiming to improve the hauling situation, IMO the Rav4 is only a small step above your old Corolla.

I would recommend really pinning down your hauling requirements first and then shop accordingly. Without knowing that, you’re cross-shopping the vastly different worlds of compact crossovers, station wagons, and pickup trucks in the same breath.

El Spamo
Aug 21, 2003

Fuss and misery

plester1 posted:

Have you had a chance to sit in a Rav4 yet? I don’t think anyone considers them mid-sized, they’re quite compact and not in the same class as an Outback, let alone a pickup truck. If you’re aiming to improve the hauling situation, IMO the Rav4 is only a small step above your old Corolla.

I would recommend really pinning down your hauling requirements first and then shop accordingly. Without knowing that, you’re cross-shopping the vastly different worlds of compact crossovers, station wagons, and pickup trucks in the same breath.

Not, yet and good point(s).
I definitely want to sit in a representative of the cars, but I was lumping the Rav4 and Outback in the general SUV category. You're right about cross-shopping though, this is the first new (or new-to-me) car in 10 years so I'm casting a pretty broad net. Beyond the baseline of something that can take me fishing, camping, and light material hauling I'm pretty open, and that includes a lot of different types of vehicles.

plester1
Jul 9, 2004





El Spamo posted:

Not, yet and good point(s).
I definitely want to sit in a representative of the cars, but I was lumping the Rav4 and Outback in the general SUV category. You're right about cross-shopping though, this is the first new (or new-to-me) car in 10 years so I'm casting a pretty broad net. Beyond the baseline of something that can take me fishing, camping, and light material hauling I'm pretty open, and that includes a lot of different types of vehicles.

Another way of thinking about it: what do you want your new vehicle to do that your Corolla can’t? You mentioned that your Corolla actually did well at minor hauling jobs, including plywood, but you want to get into bigger stuff. You should figure out how much bigger, because the sky is the limit. Also, consider how often you need to haul. If it’s infrequent jobs, renting a pickup when you need might make more sense than buying one.

Did I also catch that you’re a dog owner? Doggie access may be a factor to consider depending on size and mobility. Lower vehicles like station wagons and hatchbacks can be easier for larger or older dogs to climb into compared to SUVs/crossovers and pickups.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
The other small pickups are the Frontier (old as poo poo but it works and is cheap), the Canyon/Colorado twins (I personally think these are very good trucks) and the Ford Ranger (extreme triumph of style over substance). If you really plan to haul stuff, don't get a new anything, it'll get beat to poo poo really quick.

Your use case doesn't indicate that a hybrid is going to be a great return on investment (How many total miles are you doing a year?), and in most hybrids the space of the ICE drivetrain and HV drivetrain mean less space for gear and dog.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

El Spamo posted:

Well, my 10 year old toyota corolla has gotten beat up enough that I'm going to make a serious push to replace it.

Consider a 4runner? Tough as hell Toyota construction, can tow, haul, offroad, and carry the kids to school. Its larger than the Rav4 (which is practically a car), and comparable in capability to the Tacoma, depending on the generations you're comparing.

It will be close to the limit of your budget/age constraint however, as you know Toyotas hold their value extremely well. This is bad when you're buying but great when you're selling, obviously.

El Spamo
Aug 21, 2003

Fuss and misery
If there's any to sell, friends I know with 4runners hold on to them for years. All this is on my notepad now.

I may have to put my greenie-hippie dreams of hybrid environmental responsibility on the back burner, apparently hybrids aren't popular enough in my part of the U.S. for them to be kept in stock anywhere. Sidenote, dealerships are SUPER quick off the mark if you click the 'send me a quote' button.

I have tomorrow off so I'm going to hit the local CarMax, dealerships, etc. and sit in some cars, do some driving, all that jazz. Visit the bank and see what kind of loan I'll qualify for, which'll solidify my budget.

Oh, someone asked if I have a dog? Yep, a little cattle dog mix about 40lbs, very active and brave pooch who's way less scared in lightning storms than I am.
To the question of the most common use case, that would actually be driving out to campgrounds, ski hills, and fishing holes so being able to handle muddy, rutted, or icy roads (with proper tires, naturally) is probably first.
Then efficiency and economy. No 12mpg pigs for me.
Then, very close if not overlapping, hauling stuff, again not tons and each vehicle type has reasonable ways to tackle that job.
Then tech doodads.
Finally, all the other little things about a vehicle that could break a tie amongst the above like color, # of seats.

Not too worried about a new car getting beat up, my corolla has been beat up repeatedly and has lasted 10 years. Dents can be hammered out, scrapes can be repaired, but as long as you take care of the engine and guts a good car will keep on going no matter how ugly it'll get on the outside. Rather amazing little car too, it could tackle some seriously unpleasant roads with good tires on it, never quit running regardless of the weather. I'm a little sad to see it go, but after all it's been through I think it's time for a graceful retirement.

The thing that pushed me over the top was a rear-ender collision this last week while waiting for some friends at the base of a driveway when another car came around, braked, and icy conditions did what they do best and the poor car just kept on sliding right into the back of me. Enough time to look at it coming and think "Well, this is happening." No-one got hurt, but my car is rear end-less for the second time in its life and the trunk won't close due to being stove in.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
close out regal tourx? more of a softroader than anything but can almost certainly handle what you are describing

otherwise outback sounds about right

Fireside Nut
Feb 10, 2010

turp


I looked around a bit and sorry if this is the wrong place for this question: what’s the goon recommended way to sell a used car via private party? I got an appraisal from CarMax but think it might be worth trying the private party route. Thanks!

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Fireside Nut posted:

I looked around a bit and sorry if this is the wrong place for this question: what’s the goon recommended way to sell a used car via private party? I got an appraisal from CarMax but think it might be worth trying the private party route. Thanks!

The usual ways are: an ad in the local paper, or a posting on Facebook, or Craigslist, or Nextdoor. All of those will get the eyes of private parties to interest them.

Which is best is entirely relative as to what you want. They all work, it's just a matter of which is most convenient for you.

In order of exposure, FB is probably first, then CL, and either the paper or ND depending on the size of your town.

That's also the order of the number of goofballs and scammers you will attract.

We recently sold a car in two days for the full price through Nextdoor. We just posted that we had the car for sale and the price, and did anybody want it. We had about six calls within few hours. YMMV, obviously. All data on this stuff is anecdotal.

Fireside Nut
Feb 10, 2010

turp


Deteriorata posted:

The usual ways are: an ad in the local paper, or a posting on Facebook, or Craigslist, or Nextdoor. All of those will get the eyes of private parties to interest them.

Which is best is entirely relative as to what you want. They all work, it's just a matter of which is most convenient for you.

In order of exposure, FB is probably first, then CL, and either the paper or ND depending on the size of your town.

That's also the order of the number of goofballs and scammers you will attract.

We recently sold a car in two days for the full price through Nextdoor. We just posted that we had the car for sale and the price, and did anybody want it. We had about six calls within few hours. YMMV, obviously. All data on this stuff is anecdotal.

Thank you, this is really helpful. Don’t have FB so NextDoor sounds like a great way to go. Appreciate the help! :cheers:

JnnyThndrs
May 29, 2001

HERE ARE THE FUCKING TOWELS
Facebook Marketplace works pretty well to sell stuff as well - I’ve not bought a vehicle through the site, but I’ve bought a bunch of computer hardware.

Racing Stripe
Oct 22, 2003

Hi everyone. I'm coming off of a bit of a run of bad luck with my 2013 Subaru Impreza (unexplained rear differential noise that the mechanic said might or might not indicate something that will get worse, a bunch of warning lights including AT oil temp that came on all at once when I was on the highway and is currently being checked out, having to change headlights every month or two because they keep burning out) and I'm thinking of cutting bait and getting something else depending on how bad the news is regarding my transmission and/or rear differential. I'm looking for some recommendations. Here's the info requested in the OP:

Proposed Budget: $13 - $16K
New or Used: used
Body Style: Hatchback (negotiable, but a little hauling capacity is important)
How will you be using the car?: Around town, every day stuff. No long commutes, but occasional longer drives for work.
What aspects are most important to you? My girlfriend and I like camping and backpacking, so some capability on less-than-ideal terrain is preferred though not 100% a necessity. MPG and low cost of ownership of course are important, too. The Subaru's poor performance on those two counts are a big reason why we're thinking of switching.

A couple of general questions and a rundown of what I'm eyeing right now:
1. As for capability on poor roads, AWD is obviously a big one. Am I right in thinking that ground clearance is also an important factor? For example, my Impreza has AWD but low ground clearance; if I had a car with higher ground clearance but no AWD, would that offer some help on rough roads? I know it wouldn't do anything to help me get up a muddy hill, but I really never come across anything like that in my camping and hiking. I'm really just trying to avoid the combination of 2WD and ground clearance that would lead to the worst performance in this kind of situation, whatever that might be.
2. A number of hatches seem to have a sort of sporty/turbo angle to them. I'd be happy with a little extra pep, but my girlfriend is worried that a turbo is going to lead to higher insurance premiums and other drawbacks (aside from decreased MPG). What should I consider there?
3. Currently eyeing a Corolla, Civic, or Mazda3 hatchback. What else should I consider?

El Spamo
Aug 21, 2003

Fuss and misery
I or my family have had a Corolla and Civic that has handled icy Alaskan winters and gravel roads out to the villages. Proper tires make or break them on bad road conditions, and as long as you're not off-roading then their low profile made them really stable in dodgey conditions.
That's all anecdotal evidence, but both of those cars lasted me and my mother respectively for a decade of driving before falling to damage that was no fault of the car's.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Fireside Nut posted:

Thank you, this is really helpful. Don’t have FB so NextDoor sounds like a great way to go. Appreciate the help! :cheers:

Cars.com still exists and I've had surprisingly good luck buying/selling cars there.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

Racing Stripe posted:

2. A number of hatches seem to have a sort of sporty/turbo angle to them. I'd be happy with a little extra pep, but my girlfriend is worried that a turbo is going to lead to higher insurance premiums and other drawbacks (aside from decreased MPG). What should I consider there?
3. Currently eyeing a Corolla, Civic, or Mazda3 hatchback. What else should I consider?

Sounds like you're on the right track with those 3, and as noted tires are going to make the #1 difference in traction, no matter the drivetrain. AWD gives you better cornering stability, better loose surface acceleration and better off-road capability, which are mostly performance enhancements. AWD won’t make you brake any better and won’t give lovely tires any better traction. For reference, FWD cars are still competitive in amateur rally sports, basically only losing out in high speed cornering on loose surfaces vs. AWD, but they are plenty capable at high speeds with good tires, despite only having 2 driven wheels.

Also depending on it’s use, a turbo on a smaller engine vs a NA larger engine can often be more efficient, not less.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Most AWD cars are FWD by default with rear differential activating in less than 1% of road conditions. Or never at all

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

Nitrox posted:

Most AWD cars are FWD by default with rear differential activating in less than 1% of road conditions. Or never at all

this may be true for "part-time" or "on-demand" AWD systems, and makes the assumption that you rarely drive on snow, gravel or loose dirt (the 1% comment), but imprezas/legacy's (and other subies? dunno I've only driven subarus in a rally capacity) are full-time 3 or 4 wheel drive. Even on asphalt

Racing Stripe
Oct 22, 2003

Nitrox posted:

Most AWD cars are FWD by default with rear differential activating in less than 1% of road conditions. Or never at all

Yes, I know that AWD will give me zero benefit during the majority of my time behind the wheel. What I'm concerned about is the time I spend on rough roads, which might be more than the typical person. I might be fine without AWD since I'm not going up steep muddy unpaved inclines, but steep, bumpy, or unpaved comes up a lot when you go camping, which I do most weekends in the summer.

Keyser_Soze
May 5, 2009

Pillbug

IOwnCalculus posted:

Cars.com still exists and I've had surprisingly good luck buying/selling cars there.

1. Cars.com or Autotrader full ad and pay for the Carfax report.
2. back that up with a local Craigslist ad that links to 1.
3. Take a lot of pics with an actual camera and note any dings, scratches, etc
4. Dump the high res pics on a shared Dropbox folder (pay them the $10) and include link to it in 1,2.
5. Include all the history, receipts, spreadsheets etc. You can also scan them and dump on Dropbox folder as well.
6. don't be lazy with 1-5

Look at Bring a Trailer for actual "effort" ads and do likewise to some extent and you will be rewarded.

Racing Stripe
Oct 22, 2003

hot cocoa on the couch posted:

Sounds like you're on the right track with those 3, and as noted tires are going to make the #1 difference in traction, no matter the drivetrain. AWD gives you better cornering stability, better loose surface acceleration and better off-road capability, which are mostly performance enhancements. AWD won’t make you brake any better and won’t give lovely tires any better traction. For reference, FWD cars are still competitive in amateur rally sports, basically only losing out in high speed cornering on loose surfaces vs. AWD, but they are plenty capable at high speeds with good tires, despite only having 2 driven wheels.

Also depending on it’s use, a turbo on a smaller engine vs a NA larger engine can often be more efficient, not less.

This is good intel. Thanks. "Good tires" means what, exactly, though?

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

Racing Stripe posted:

This is good intel. Thanks. "Good tires" means what, exactly, though?

lots of tread left, and suited to the conditions. that means softer rubber for the winter, deep and long sipes for slushy/snowy conditions, big blocks with an angled pattern on the outside for sliding on gravel, etc.

basically just keep in mind that the steering wheel doesn't turn the car, the engine doesn't accelerate the car, and the brakes don't stop the car. The tires do all that, and they are the cars interface with the road. Ideally your tires would suit your driving conditions at all times but that's not really practical for a typical driver. Basically what I'm saying here is driver skill being the same, FWD with a fresh set of winters > AWD with 2 year old all-seasons.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002

hot cocoa on the couch posted:

this may be true for "part-time" or "on-demand" AWD systems, and makes the assumption that you rarely drive on snow, gravel or loose dirt (the 1% comment), but imprezas/legacy's (and other subies? dunno I've only driven subarus in a rally capacity) are full-time 3 or 4 wheel drive. Even on asphalt
Most Subaru cars do not drive around spinning 4 wheels at the same time. They have load-sensing differentials, sending power where needed. The only difference, is that they don't default to front wheel drive, like the rest of the em. 99% of the time, car is driven by 1 single wheel. The wheel that has most traction. But to complicate things, Subaru uses four different types of drivetrains, here is a link if you care

https://youtu.be/WBQlK89PyxQ

This is the reason their fuel economy sucks, when compared to other cars in the segment.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

Nitrox posted:

Most Subaru cars do not drive around spinning 4 wheels at the same time. They have load-sensing differentials, sending power where needed. The only difference, is that they don't default to front wheel drive, like the rest of the em. 99% of the time, car is driven by 1 single wheel. The wheel that has most traction. But to complicate things, Subaru uses four different types of drivetrains, here is a link if you care

https://youtu.be/WBQlK89PyxQ

This is the reason their fuel economy sucks, when compared to other cars in the segment.

I'm familiar with the video and with subaru drivetrains (at least the ones with the VCD,). The VCD splits engine torque over both front and back axles. You will never be in a situation where you have 1 driven wheel in a Subaru with a VCD, because it is a limited slip coupling. The VCD is incapable of fully locking, meaning both axles will be receiving power at all times. I believe in my car (2003 GG), the VCD can differentiate as much as 20/80 or 80/20. On top of that, per axle it's rare that one wheel will have full power anyway. It's not like one wheel is completely power free while the other is powered, because it's not an on/off switch on a mechanical differential (assuming we're talking open here and not limited slip). As the car is moving, grip conditions are changing on the right and left wheels the entire time the car is in motion. So power will be distributed from one wheel to the other in varying amounts, with the power distribution changing actively. If you are cornering on a loose surface in a Subaru with a VCD, it is likely that 3 or 4 wheels are being driven, depending on the point in the turn.

Edit: for clarity, my experience is limited to Subaru cars with a manual trans

hot cocoa on the couch fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Dec 31, 2019

Fireside Nut
Feb 10, 2010

turp


IOwnCalculus posted:

Cars.com still exists and I've had surprisingly good luck buying/selling cars there.

Keyser_Soze posted:

1. Cars.com or Autotrader full ad and pay for the Carfax report.
2. back that up with a local Craigslist ad that links to 1.
3. Take a lot of pics with an actual camera and note any dings, scratches, etc
4. Dump the high res pics on a shared Dropbox folder (pay them the $10) and include link to it in 1,2.
5. Include all the history, receipts, spreadsheets etc. You can also scan them and dump on Dropbox folder as well.
6. don't be lazy with 1-5

Look at Bring a Trailer for actual "effort" ads and do likewise to some extent and you will be rewarded.

Thank you both!

Throatwarbler
Nov 17, 2008

by vyelkin

hot cocoa on the couch posted:

I'm familiar with the video and with subaru drivetrains (at least the ones with the VCD,). The VCD splits engine torque over both front and back axles. You will never be in a situation where you have 1 driven wheel in a Subaru with a VCD, because it is a limited slip coupling. The VCD is incapable of fully locking, meaning both axles will be receiving power at all times. I believe in my car (2003 GG), the VCD can differentiate as much as 20/80 or 80/20. On top of that, per axle it's rare that one wheel will have full power anyway. It's not like one wheel is completely power free while the other is powered, because it's not an on/off switch on a mechanical differential (assuming we're talking open here and not limited slip). As the car is moving, grip conditions are changing on the right and left wheels the entire time the car is in motion. So power will be distributed from one wheel to the other in varying amounts, with the power distribution changing actively. If you are cornering on a loose surface in a Subaru with a VCD, it is likely that 3 or 4 wheels are being driven, depending on the point in the turn.

Edit: for clarity, my experience is limited to Subaru cars with a manual trans

2003 was 15 years ago. I can't even think of any car maker that makes a car with a viscous center differential lock anymore, and I don't think any Subaru other than the STi is anything other than just a slip and grip electronic clutch center coupling mated to a CVT.

nm
Jan 28, 2008

"I saw Minos the Space Judge holding a golden sceptre and passing sentence upon the Martians. There he presided, and around him the noble Space Prosecutors sought the firm justice of space law."

Throatwarbler posted:

2003 was 15 years ago. I can't even think of any car maker that makes a car with a viscous center differential lock anymore, and I don't think any Subaru other than the STi is anything other than just a slip and grip electronic clutch center coupling mated to a CVT.

The WRX and I think any other manual subarus (few and far between) that aren't the STI use a viscous center diff.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Like I said, most.

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hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

There are other automakers to this day that have a limited slip center diff tho? Audi's quattro system has never been able to send power to only one axle, similarly some VWs with 4motion (longitudinal engines). There are others in the SUV category I'm sure, I dont know enough about it. I know the center diff on my 4runner is limited slip and can be manually locked to 50:50. The Evo X has either limited slip or torque vectoring diffs front, center, and back. I'm just saying reducing the conversation to "99% of the time" "99% of drivers" will only have 1 driven wheel is simplifying the broad range of complex AWD systems the different automakers have designed.

And anyway my original point was that a FWD car with good rubber would be more than sufficient.

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