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BubbaGrace posted:They make those dual stops in a straight configuration as well. I don't use them. I will 3/4" inside the cabinet and branch off individual 1/2 to the DW and faucet with a 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/2 tee. Wanna run your dishwasher AND sink at the same time with no pressure loss? I gotcha lady! No call backs for this guy. That is a shitload of water. Here in California I assume they drag you through the streets for allowing water usage like that.
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Dec 18, 2019 05:11
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My shower puts out 4 gallons per minute and it's blissful but I am banned from even entering California.
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Dec 18, 2019 05:34
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SpartanIvy posted:My shower puts out 4 gallons per minute and it's blissful but I am banned from even entering California. It was weird going to Bumfuck Shithole, Texas and not even having aerators on the bathroom sink. Just far too much water pressure coming from a unrestricted faucet into too shallow of a sink and then all over the floor and counter. Could fill a hotel water glass in about a second flat though.
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Dec 18, 2019 06:05
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H110Hawk posted:It was weird going to Bumfuck Shithole, Texas and not even having aerators on the bathroom sink. Just far too much water pressure coming from a unrestricted faucet into too shallow of a sink and then all over the floor and counter. Could fill a hotel water glass in about a second flat though. People think high water pressure is cool and good up until one of their supply hoses bursts or their water-using appliances die early from the solenoid valve. PRVs are like $50, and you can always run the outside bibs to full street pressure if you need that for some reason.
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Dec 18, 2019 13:45
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Yeah, really high water pressure will make your water heater leak, I'm glad I got that pressure reducer installed. I still have plenty of shower pressure, though. So, I probably should have gone to the Plumbing Supply store instead of waiting two days for my Amazon Prime shipment: I underestimated how gross my kitchen would get in two days without a faucet! Anyway, I was staring at the brass fixed parts for a few days, and I noticed a barely perceptible leak from it. I don't think my cold water shutoff valve doesn't close all the way? I tried opening and closing it a few times, and it didn't help. Is this normal?
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Dec 18, 2019 14:29
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Squashy Nipples posted:I was staring at the brass fixed parts for a few days, and I noticed a barely perceptible leak from it. I don't think my cold water shutoff valve doesn't close all the way? I tried opening and closing it a few times, and it didn't help. Is this normal? Is it normal that a valve that barely ever gets operated has failed when you finally used it? Yes.
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Dec 18, 2019 17:55
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H110Hawk posted:That is a shitload of water. Here in California I assume they drag you through the streets for allowing water usage like that. It's how the master plumber I did my apprenticeship had me run pipe. He always told me don't split 1/2" and it's stuck with me since.
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Dec 18, 2019 23:02
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I have a plumbing mystery I am trying to solve. This is probably a 'call a plumber' situation, but if I can understand what's going on before hand I'd like to. The toilet at my shop does funny things when/after it rains. When it rains really hard it doesn't flush reliably. It's an older and low lying part of a very wet city and I figure the storm sewers overflow into the sanitary and back everything up-I get that and can live with it. Lately however, something strange has started happening for hours or even a day after it rains really hard. The toilet flushes more or less fine (maybe with a 'burp' where a big bubble comes out before all the water goes down), refills to it's normal water level, and then over the next several minutes, about half the water drains out. Flush again, 'burp', same thing happens. Its a yr old Kohler toilet, works great any time it isn't raining, and even when it starts raining its fine, its just after a while it starts acting up. When I rebuilt the bathroom a yr ago, I had plumbers move the toilet and vent stack a few feet and then hooked the toilet up myself. It's a ~60yr old building that wasn't well maintained recently if that matters, but everything from ground up is new as far as plumbing is concerned-all that is on the vent stack is this toilet and a sink.
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Dec 19, 2019 02:37
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Sounds like your vent stack, isn’t. Could the plumber have tied your roof rain leader (equivalent to a downspout) into your vent stack? A lot of traffic coming down would create both of those effects.
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Dec 19, 2019 02:49
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PainterofCrap posted:Sounds like your vent stack, isn’t. The vent stack is inside and goes straight from the ground near the toilet up through the roof-nothing else ties in. I need to get up on the roof to patch some leaks anyway-ill check to make sure a bird hasn't built a nest in it or something when I do. Outside (downstream from the toilet/stuff inside) there is a downspout that goes underground to....somewhere. Could that be part of the issue?
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Dec 19, 2019 03:20
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Ya, that downspout has to tie in to your sewer lateral out there. It is more likely to be a downstream occlusion/blockage past where the rain leader ties in than an air blockage at the vent (though I don’t rule it out; I’ve found interesting poo poo on roofs, and many a tennis ball blocking a scupper). A stunning volume of water drains off of a roof during even a moderate rain event. I’ve seen older cast laterals that burst from column pressure in Philadelphia rowhomes during heavy rainstorms. A partial blockage downstream will back up quickly during rain. It has to be a partial, because a full blockage would announce itself as a giant poo poo fountain arising from your throne. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Dec 19, 2019 |
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Dec 19, 2019 03:27
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Motronic posted:Is it normal that a valve that barely ever gets operated has failed when you finally used it? Yes. OK, makes sense. Is there a reason that they use those cheap gate valves for shutoffs instead of ball valves? I've never had a ball valve fail like that. I guess in theory you might need to balance the flow between the two supplies?
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Dec 19, 2019 14:35
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Squashy Nipples posted:OK, makes sense. Because cheap. Every time I need to shut the water off to do something I end up replacing those things with 1/4 turn valves that cost an extra couple dollars more than the cheap poo poo you typically find there. If you can turn the water off to the house and can get the line drained it's really one of the easier things to sweat off, clean up and sweat a new one back on again.
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Dec 19, 2019 20:19
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I need to make a connection ideally from a 3/8" plumbing supply line to a bidet. The bidet (BB-2000) uses a setup that's almost like the 7/8" toilet fill valve supply but is 13/16" just to make it interesting. The bottom part of that L-valve is what is what typically would made to my bidet supply. Putting my calipers on the inside to the threads yields 18.8mm I have the "T-valve" adapter that is supposed to tee the toilet line in order to supply the bidet with its custom size, but can't use it since the previous owners have a toilet that takes a 3/8" supply into the toilet tank and to the top of the valve (not the bottom of the tank as is standard). Is there such a thing as a 7/8" toilet flare plug with a gasket I could use? Is this some metric fitting that I'm getting punked on? Those are the only other things I can think of other than to just go buy a not-dumb toilet and be done with it.
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Dec 21, 2019 21:10
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Paul MaudDib posted:I'm looking to replace my toilets, looking at Menard's I'm noticing some variation in the size of the outlet hole in the floor. Is that correct, and if so how do I know what size outlet my existing toilets have so that I don't need things replumbed? I don’t think I saw a response, but your toilet might have the size of outlet or required wax ring cast into it somewhere that’s inconspicuous. If not and you don’t think you can get an approximate idea based on the size of what you visually see beneath the tank/toilet, then you’ll have to pop up the toilet slightly and measure/etc the opening.
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Dec 22, 2019 04:52
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 We are talking American plumbing, right? Is there a brand for the toilet? Or is it a vintage commode? My thinking is elongate bowls on vintage toilets are fairly rare, so if your BB-2000 fits on your bowl, it should be newer and therefore have a fill valve protruding from the bottom of the tank. If the fitting on that fill valve is a screwy size, you can probably replace the fill valve assembly and be good to go. If you have some kind of toilet, especially a newer one, that doesn't have a bottom fill--I'd love to see a picture for my today's "huh, didn't know that" moment.
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Dec 22, 2019 20:44
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Hed posted:I need to make a connection ideally from a 3/8" plumbing supply line to a bidet. The bidet (BB-2000) uses a setup that's almost like the 7/8" toilet fill valve supply but is 13/16" just to make it interesting. Dual flush toilet with a weird supply line? What about the 90 elbow they provide? What size is that? Could you just get a 3/8" compression tee and supply it from the stop valve?
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Dec 22, 2019 21:15
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DrBouvenstein posted:
Just a heads up dude those caps arent for copper they will at some stage leak, you want the black ring ones.
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Dec 27, 2019 04:45
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fatman posted:Just a heads up dude those caps arent for copper they will at some stage leak, you want the black ring ones. https://www.sharkbite.com/resources/faqs/universal-brass-push-fittings-faqs I quote: SharkBite fittings are certified for use with: Copper pipe hard drawn Type K, L and M and annealed Type M not to exceed 3/8 nominal, complying with ASTM B88 PEX pipe complying with ASTM F876 or CSA B137.5 CPVC pipe complying with ASTM D2846 or CSA B137.6 PE-RT pipe complying with ASTM F2769 HDPE pipe complying with ASTM D2737 (SDR-9)
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Dec 27, 2019 07:30
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fatman posted:Just a heads up dude those caps arent for copper they will at some stage leak, you want the black ring ones. What are the black ring ones? Are those like a Sharkbite knockoff? Those look like the standard, branded SB caps, which as Nitrox said, are perfectly fine for copper unless your local jurisdiction has some special hatred for push-fits in general.
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Dec 27, 2019 17:49
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HycoCam posted:
Here is the weird Delta model. Excuse the previous owner’s awful plumbing job with the PEX just coming through the wall with no cap.  The picture isn’t the best but tried to get the supply line which is disconnected coming up through the back of the bowl. It is unlike anything I’ve seen. kid sinister posted:Dual flush toilet with a weird supply line? The 90 is whatever their magic size is. I talked to BioBidet and they’re sending me some parts so we can LEGO it. One thing preventing me from being helpful is not understanding the measurements used. For example is the size always measured on the inside of the female part or the outside of the male threads? If it’s standard pipe thread designation are there standards for OD for a given ID and application? I’ve tried putting calipers down most of this stuff but the sizes don’t really make sense to me when attempting to convert say the BioBidet part back to fractional inches. They don’t really make sense in metric either for that matter.
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Dec 28, 2019 14:09
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B-Nasty posted:What are the black ring ones? Are those like a Sharkbite knockoff? Those look like the standard, branded SB caps, which as Nitrox said, are perfectly fine for copper unless your local jurisdiction has some special hatred for push-fits in general. Im pretty sure the black ringed push-fit fittings are TECTITE, which are just knockoffs.
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Dec 28, 2019 19:41
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I have a problem with my shower floor, and I'm not sure what it is. I have a shower with unevenly shaped glass pebbles glued together with some kind of grout. Some of the grout from the floor started coming off, so we replaced it. However, it keeps coming off, so we decided to stop using the shower altogether to make sure to prevent any water damage. Here's a photo of the whole shower  A wall (still in good condition)  The floor (with grout that has already been replaced)  The slope of the shower doesn't seem to always lead to the water drain, but I don't think that's the main issue (as grout from multiple areas on the shower floor has been coming off). Google has made me think it might be plugged weep holes, but I don't really know what I'm talking about. I was thinking I could just buy new tiles, call a tile installer and ask him to remove everything and redo the thinset, making sure the weep holes are not plugged. Does that make sense? Should I be calling a plumber who could make sure there's not another issue? I bought the condo from someone else who knew about the issue, she could've been taking showers over this floor from years from all I know, should I think about stripping everything to make sure there's no water damage?
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Jan 3, 2020 06:04
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Are you certain that there is water leakage/damage? The issue may be grout prep...all of the loose grout has to be removed, and the existing grout in the problem areas taken down at least 1/16" to reach a good, grippable vertical surface (a super-fun job, with those pebbles), the area fully dried out; I would swab down the areas to be re-grouted with isopropyl alcohol be re-applying. The new grout has to be sponged down into the gaps, with no "skin" left...them let it cure & harden at least 24-hours before using it. The problem with that build is that you likely have a membrane-type pan, and to address re-doing the pan, you'll wind up tearing out all of it. Trying to go up at least 12" around the perimeter (to clear all of the area you'd need to to re-do the pan) appears...problematic given the fractal & random nature of that install. If you're having difficulty picturing how the grout should look: compare how it's sitting on the walls versus on the pan. e: I also see what appears to be a number of cracked pebbles on the floor. Whatever was used, it may be rated for walls & not for floors/pans. Water will get in under there through those cracks. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Jan 3, 2020 |
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Jan 3, 2020 06:14
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Whoever put that in a shower either hated themselves or was really planning for a future where they wanted you punished. I can't even imagine trying to clean that loving thing with a million different surfaces.
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Jan 3, 2020 18:06
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Whoever re-grouted your shower, just scraped the surface and then skim coated everything with similar color. It's basically the only thing you can do with this kind of setup, otherwise it's almost cheaper to rip it out and retile the entire area. If you want to redo this better, I can give you step-by-step instructions that you can follow, but it will take up 2 days of your time easy It involves digging out 1/8" of surface grout and then using epoxy.
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Jan 3, 2020 18:17
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PainterofCrap posted:given the fractal & random nature of that install. Bird in a Blender posted:Whoever put that in a shower either hated themselves or was really planning for a future where they wanted you punished. I HATE doing tile, just thinking about trying to fix that is giving me the agita.
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Jan 3, 2020 18:58
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I want to willy nilly say R&R that is the fastest way to sanity, but holy moly a cursory googling of tile in that style yields $12/sq ft prices for material alone 
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Jan 3, 2020 19:32
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B-Nasty posted:What are the black ring ones? Are those like a Sharkbite knockoff? Those look like the standard, branded SB caps, which as Nitrox said, are perfectly fine for copper unless your local jurisdiction has some special hatred for push-fits in general. Yeah the package said they were perfectly fine for copper, though I guess when I was fiddling around cutting the pipe and capping them off, I moved a piece too much and now a t-connector that goes to the cold supply for the faucet leaks...not a lot, so not worrying about it now...a take out container on top of the washer collects it all, only gets like 1/4 full before between laundry days so I just dump it into the washing machine when I do a load. If my mains shut off ACTUALLY shut off my cold water I'd have fixed it by now, but since it doesn't, it's not worth the annoyance. Really should get a plumber out here to fix that, unless anyone thinks I could get the city to shut off water to my house from the street connection for, like, 2 hours myself?
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Jan 7, 2020 21:00
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DrBouvenstein posted:unless anyone thinks I could get the city to shut off water to my house from the street connection for, like, 2 hours myself? You could probably do it yourself if you have the right wrench. Depends on the city water setup, but a lot of times it's just a curb cock and all the local hardware stores will have the wrench.
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Jan 7, 2020 22:15
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Motronic posted:curb cock Sounds like a skateboarding injury.
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Jan 7, 2020 22:56
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I have a question that's more mere curiosity than anything else. Don't really care about a fix, because I'm eventually going to gut the entire bathroom it's in. I have only lived in the house for 3 months now, so it's still fairly new to me. So my shower is your standard 3 knob deal: Hot, Shower/Spout, Cold - in that order. I tend to make my shower hotter as it goes on, but I've noticed my Cold knob behaves a little weird. My first attempt at making it hotter is to simply turn the Cold knob down - the weird behavior is - for the first say...8th of a turn, turning it down actually makes the water colder at first. After the initial part of a turn - it behaves as expected. I can't recall ever encountering this problem in any similar shower I have encountered. So I guess I'm just trying to ensure I don't have some kind of leak behind the wall or whatever, since I'm pretty sure turning the Cold knob down shouldn't make the water colder. What gives, plumber goons?
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Jan 10, 2020 15:48
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DrBouvenstein posted:Yeah the package said they were perfectly fine for copper, though I guess when I was fiddling around cutting the pipe and capping them off, I moved a piece too much and now a t-connector that goes to the cold supply for the faucet leaks...not a lot, so not worrying about it now...a take out container on top of the washer collects it all, only gets like 1/4 full before between laundry days so I just dump it into the washing machine when I do a load. Did you ream the copper after cutting it? If not, then it is possible you punctured the O-Ring inside of the fitting. EDIT: To expand on this. Push-fit connections themselves are not this terrible thing that is an automatic leak. Just like any other material, the majority of problems I encounter with sharkbite and the equivalent is improper or crappy install. You still need to clean and ream the pipe. Sharkbite/Tec-tite has both ATSM and UPC certifications. They have been thouroughly tested, are code approved and backed by a 20+ year manufacturer warranty/liability guarantee. Plumbers bag on push fit connections for a few different reasons, some more justified than others. The most common ones are: They are a handyman tool because they are too easy to use - To this all I can say is... ok? Let's go back to threading galvy and wooden mains. SB blow off if the pipe freezes - Lol, sweat/press fittings do this too, if the pipe doesn't rupture first. The pipe spins inside of the fitting - I don't like this either, but some press fittings also do and you rarely hear "pros" bitching about it SB Cost - I agree, and this is the main reason they will never be used for more than a quick band-aid. Other methods are much cheaper if you have the tools and knowledge. BubbaGrace fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Jan 11, 2020 |
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Jan 11, 2020 06:23
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I just need a sanity check. I live in Michigan and we recently had like 3 inches of rain in Saturday then minor snow and ice on Sunday, and its been warm enough for the snow to melt the past couple of days, definitely minor flooding in the yard. My sump pump has been running constantly ever since now i don't know how long it's been running each session but it feels like a long time. The basin still has water in it about maybe 20% or so of the way up. Before this it would operate sporadically as it probably should The sump pump was replaced a year and a half ago with a Zoeller. Currently don't have a functioning backup but I'll have one installed next week and I'll probably have the guy take a look at the actual sump just to check Am i being paranoid with thinking something is wrong or that I'm going to burn out the sump pump? Or is the pump just doing exactly what it's supposed to do and i should calm the hell down?
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Jan 15, 2020 07:10
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vyst posted:I just need a sanity check. I live in Michigan and we recently had like 3 inches of rain in Saturday then minor snow and ice on Sunday, and its been warm enough for the snow to melt the past couple of days, definitely minor flooding in the yard. My sump pump has been running constantly ever since now i don't know how long it's been running each session but it feels like a long time. The basin still has water in it about maybe 20% or so of the way up. Before this it would operate sporadically as it probably should Sounds like it's working normally. All of that water (rain, melted snow/ice, etc.), has probably mostly saturated the immediate area, and if temperatures are still fairly cool and not a lot of sunlight (?), it's going to take some time for that water to perc, and your near-constantly dewatered sump represents the lowest headless path for water being drained via gravity/released from pore pressure. Also, quality/well designed sump pumps are designed for wet and near-dry operation, so running regularly shouldn't be an issue, and minimizing cycling can actually be beneficial. Usually it'll have a low level cutoff switch/float that will shut it off once it drops below its minimum required submergence for operation, which is probably the small amount of water left in the sump that you're seeing.
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Jan 15, 2020 07:38
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vyst posted:I just need a sanity check. I live in a sandy swamp. Seconding: Yours is working normally, & they can take it. I admit, though, to feeing a bit anxious when the ground gets saturated & I hear the thing starting up every 40-seconds or so all day & night.
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Jan 15, 2020 16:53
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PainterofCrap posted:I live in a sandy swamp. Seconding: Yours is working normally, & they can take it. You might be able to adjust the float some so that the sump has to fill more before it turns on. That'll help with the frequent start up.
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Jan 15, 2020 19:58
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SourKraut posted:You might be able to adjust the float some so that the sump has to fill more before it turns on. That'll help with the frequent start up. Oh, it’s set high enough. When the weather demons collaborate, water streams steadily out of my tile into the crock. If I set it any higher, my slab will darken. It was unwise for the WPA to build basemented homes in a riverine environment, but it was the Depression, so  Oh, and no footings, either! E: before we bought the home, the seller (son of the original owner) said that there were no groundwater issues. Eight years later, he drives by & stops to chat. It is then he regales us with the story of the flooding in 1955 that was so deep & bad, he had his neighborhood friends over to swim in the basement. By then, we’d saved the $4000 necessary to have the basement waterproofed & had it done. Douche PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Jan 15, 2020 |
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Jan 15, 2020 20:01
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BubbaGrace posted:Did you ream the copper after cutting it? If not, then it is possible you punctured the O-Ring inside of the fitting. No, I reamed those bad boys good, definitely leaking from a nearby T fitting. Other plumbing question: My toilet has recently started requiring me to hold down the handle to flush for a long time...like, several seconds. I previously was able to just push and release and it'd flush completely. What might have changed this behavior? It's annoying to have to stand there with my finger on the handle for 4-5 seconds. I'm a busy man! Is there any adjustment I can make to the float or flapper to fix this?
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Jan 16, 2020 16:31
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Ja; shorten the chain. Take the lid off & adjust the chain. It's a trial & error thing. It's possible something broke, if so you'll find it during the adjustment.
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Jan 16, 2020 16:49
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