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Computer parts cost a LOT in Israel and most international stores have high shipping costs / require you to pay custom fees. Generally speaking, how much of a chance would I be taking by ordering a graphics card (for example) from aliexpress?
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Dec 27, 2019 14:11
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I think its probably better to buy a used card locally in that case but it sounds like a very unique situation.
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Dec 27, 2019 14:13
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SadBag posted:The holes are in the right place, it lines up correctly when I detach the IO Shield from the case and force it against the motherboard That'd work, though it'd provide an extra opening for dust ingress if you're worried about that. It looks like there's a manufacturing defect somewhere that could be resolved by returning the defective item, but can you poat a picture of the motherboard screwed into the case where it's not lining up?
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Dec 27, 2019 14:33
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ItBreathes posted:That'd work, though it'd provide an extra opening for dust ingress if you're worried about that. It looks like there's a manufacturing defect somewhere that could be resolved by returning the defective item, but can you poat a picture of the motherboard screwed into the case where it's not lining up? Here is the central peg mounting thing:  And here are pictures of it being in the case on the central peg mounting thing:   At this point the IO stuff looks like this  Since the ram/chip/motherboard are all out of the anti static stuff, would the safest way to transport to microcenter be keeping it in the case? SadBag fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Dec 27, 2019 |
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Dec 27, 2019 15:18
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That's a strange issue, I tell you hwhat. I'd leave it in there (and screw it down for transport) so you can show them what the issue is, but you'll have to pull it out to fix it regardless so if you have the original packaging I'd keep it handy. I can only imagine microcenter can supply antistatic bags if need be.
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Dec 27, 2019 15:41
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Xander77 posted:Computer parts cost a LOT in Israel and most international stores have high shipping costs / require you to pay custom fees. I love AliExpress for what it is, but if the item can be faked it will be and you need to be careful. But Ali is a real store that serves much of the world that doesn't have instant on demand access to Bestbuy, Amazon, SuperBiiz, Newegg, BHPhoto, Microcenter .coms all at once. There's real poo poo on there, and there are products from real brands (Xiaomi for example, which is a real brand enough that there are knockoffs of it on Ali). I got a little 4k DJI Mavic clone for $63 - it's like 70% of the drone for 7% of the price, perfect for poo poo like that. Problem with GPUs is they can be BIOS hacked to report as whatever and even in the best of situations are some of the more common points of failure in a system. This seems dumb as hell but given the number of euro and americans that travel can you get someone to bring you something used via a local subreddit or the birthright thread or SA Mart or something? As even a secular american jew I know like 4 people who have been to israel in the past 12 months. I assume if nothing else internal shipping fees are much lower. bus hustler fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Dec 27, 2019 |
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Dec 27, 2019 15:48
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Fabulousity posted:I have the same case with a 3700X but am using an Arctic Freezer 34 eSports Duo. I thought the fan wire clips were a bit bitchy to work with but I have the dexterity of an amputee wombat with late stage rabies so your mileage may vary. Otherwise I have no complaints about temperatures or noise. Also have two 140mm intake fans at the front and one 120mm exhaust. All together it's pretty drat quiet no matter what I'm doing. Thanks for this, I ended up going with the Scythe Mugen. What a tremendous difference in both speed and noise. It was also the easiest 3rd party cooler I've ever had to install!
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Dec 27, 2019 16:12
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Lungboy posted:Yeah that's definitely a consideration as I don't have a CPU to substitute so I'd have to borrow one off AMD which I think they still do. I'm hoping that the 3000 series chips have been out long enough that the motherboard will have been updated by now. Don't they still have Mortars Max in  ? It's apparently the better/best B450 option (the TomaMaxes we're stuck with here in  being the second-best B450 option)?E: Derp, it's an ITX build. Never mind.
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Dec 27, 2019 16:38
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Mu Zeta posted:Looks like a good setup. I'm not sure how important the USB-C front header is for you since the Tomahawk Max doesn't have any. Personally it bothers me having a port in the front of the case I can't use, but that's just me. Huh, I figured it'd use the same USB headers as the regular USB ports, but looking at the manual, I'm wrong. Thanks for catching that, it would have annoyed the hell out of me. 
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Dec 27, 2019 16:48
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For playing games on one monitor, and watcing tv/movies on a 2nd connected monitor with madvr post processing, will a ryzen 3800X make a difference over a 3600?
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Dec 27, 2019 17:14
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Looks like madvr is mostly done on the GPU? So probably not, but regardless the 3800X doesn't perform any better than a 3700X so if you go 8 core get that one.
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Dec 27, 2019 17:23
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Seconding the above. The 3800x is the worst buy of the new Ryzen chips imo. If it's mostly GPU rendering which it looks like it is... the 3600 will be fine.
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Dec 27, 2019 17:25
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SadBag posted:At this point the IO stuff looks like this From that picture, it looks like the i/o shield is installed with the lip overlapping the case on the left but not on the right. Is it possible to install without overlapping the case on either side, or maybe overlapping the right but not the left? That should shift it to the right a bit. The big money question is whether the PCIe slots line up, though. If not, it's probably a problem with the case.
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Dec 27, 2019 18:40
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89 posted:What country are you in? US There's a very good chance that your Excel files' performance won't scale all the way up to 12 cores / 24 threads (and probably not even past 4 threads. Unless you're using Photoshop tools that definitely scale that high or your programming is going to be heavily parallel I'd just buy a 3700x and save $200. That'd let you stay within budget and improve some of your other components (move up to a Meshify C case, 1 TB SSD, etc.).
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Dec 27, 2019 19:00
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charity rereg posted:This seems dumb as hell but given the number of euro and americans that travel can you get someone to bring you something used via a local subreddit or the birthright thread or SA Mart or something? As even a secular american jew I know like 4 people who have been to israel in the past 12 months. I assume if nothing else internal shipping fees are much lower.
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Dec 27, 2019 19:06
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Updated parts list for my build. I think this is near-final and would like some last comments before I pull the trigger. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor ($204.99 @ Walmart) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Mushkin PILOT 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 8 GB PULSE Video Card ($329.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $1089.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-27 13:45 EST-0500 Actuarial Fables posted:Don't go for the 1tb 660p - instead, drop down to a 1TB version of the Mushkin or one of these. Allright, if I can't have 1TB for $100 and the second M2 slot is half-speed anyway, I'll just spring for the 2TB, so worrying about space will never even cross my mind for the life of the build. quote:The replacement motherboard you've picked out doesn't have the ability to flash the bios without entering the UEFI, so if you happen to get old stock then you'd have to find someone with a compatible processor, pay a computer shop, or beg AMD for a loaner CPU. Additionally, you should be aware that the 2nd M.2 slot is half the bandwidth of the first slot - two PCIe Gen3 lanes instead of four. Not a deal breaker, but depending on your workflow you may not get the full performance of an NVMe drive in that slot. If you don't know for sure that you'll see any benefit of an NVMe data drive, you could also consider a 2.5" SATA data drive and not worry about a 2nd m.2 slot. Noted. I switch it out for the Tomahawk MAX, which I was told comes pre-flashed, but I don't know first-hand. quote:The 3600x comes with a bigger cooler, which I feel is worth the $10 by itself. Noted. The discord suggested I still get the 3600 and just get a $20 fan, but I've read reviews that AMD fans are actually quite nice if you're not overclocking, so I think I'll get the 3600X if it's still on sale when I pull the trigger. quote:For memory performance, the 3000/c15 RAM would have a lower latency than a 3200/c16 set. I'm not sure if the slightly lower RAM frequency would affect the Infinity Fabric frequency and overall performance in a noticeable way - maybe someone else here would know? I was told that this particular memory uses a specific chip (Micron Rev E die) that's apparently better for overclocking, and even if you don't overclock it performance is comparable to 3200 CL16 out of the box. I figured why not, it's in the same price ballpark. quote:I'd get Windows 10 from this person or this other person and save some money. Noted, thanks for the tip. EDIT: I am also not married to my case either. If there is an alternative case that is black metal (not plastic), doesn't have silly RGB stuff in it, is easy to work inside, and has a window I can see my build through, I'm all ears. I'm hearing that the P400A might be a nice alternative. EDIT2: Updated the case to not be the one with the tinted glass. Unboxing Day fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Dec 27, 2019 |
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Dec 27, 2019 19:16
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Demostrs posted:I would change a few things up: Thanks very much for the advice! Couple of follow up questions: 1. I'd like to get an sd card reader. Is there a recommended reader? Or is that silly and I should just buy an external USB reader? This is for loading files to my Android sd card (music and photos) and loading from my camera sd card. 2. For the SSD, I tend to keep the c drive relatively clean with just the windows install and then use a larger SSD for steam. Should I drop down to a 500gb ex920 and then get a larger 1tb? I'm assuming I stick with the WD blue still? I'll also pull a 5 gb WD black from my old build for music etc. Sorry but I'm finding the SSD research really confusing. There's so many options at so many price points. Re your other suggestions: thank you! Going to pick up a scythe cooler too.
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Dec 27, 2019 19:40
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Actuarial Fables posted:For memory performance, the 3000/c15 RAM would have a lower latency than a 3200/c16 set. I'm not sure if the slightly lower RAM frequency would affect the Infinity Fabric frequency and overall performance in a noticeable way - maybe someone else here would know?
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Dec 27, 2019 19:45
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Llamadeus posted:These are equal latency for CAS: 15/3000 = 16/3200, 10 ns for both. Ah jeez, not sure how I messed that up. Thanks for catching that.
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Dec 27, 2019 19:53
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Lowness 72 posted:Thanks very much for the advice! You’re welcome! To answer these new questions: 1. Yeah, you should get an external reader from someone reputable like Anker. There’s no place to put a 5.25" card reader on the front of the Meshify S2, and PCIe options for SD card readers seem too niche to track down. 2. You could drop down to the lower capacity storage, but it kinda feels like even if you keep the C: drive pretty clean, having the extra storage will be both immediately and in the future be more useful than 32GB of RAM. Ultimately, though, it's up to you to make that call. Edit: Also, forgot to mention/notice that the Tomahawk MAX won't have a USB-C header for your case; this is something you can add on an expansion card, since very few motherboard manufacturers bothered to put them on sub $200 motherboards. You could ignore the problem if you never wanna connect anything to that port, but otherwise pick up something like this: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV Demostrs fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Dec 27, 2019 |
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Dec 27, 2019 20:04
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Unboxing Day posted:Noted. The discord suggested I still get the 3600 and just get a $20 fan, but I've read reviews that AMD fans are actually quite nice if you're not overclocking, so I think I'll get the 3600X if it's still on sale when I pull the trigger. Discord is right here. The $20 Gammaxx 400 will be quite a bit quieter than the 3600x's stock cooler, especially since a stock 3600x eats a lot more power for it's nearly non-existent performance gain (and it's costing you $15 over a 3600).
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Dec 27, 2019 20:14
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Lowness 72 posted:Couple of follow up questions: M.2 slots are limited, so it's tough to recommend putting a smaller drive in them. Smaller drives are also more expensive / GB. If you want a smaller C: drive that's just for Windows, just partition out 200GB or so of your SSD and use that for your OS. It's really not as useful as it used to be, though - You're much less likely to benefit from wiping Windows 10 than previous iterations. I'd just go ahead and install steam directly to C: (maybe in C:\Games instead of Program Files, though). You can set up Steam libraries on other drives and choose where individual installs will go, so it's really not much of an issue. Stickman fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Dec 27, 2019 |
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Dec 27, 2019 20:18
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I'm planning on upgrading my PC next year or so on the occasion on the next gen. I'm shooting for a powerful CPU, 16GB of RAM, and an above average GPU that will likely be notably more powerful than next gen consoles but not by much. Should I invest in 4K TV since I only have a 1080p one if 60fps is mandatory in my games , or is the tech just not there yet to expect 4K at 60fps for anything other than non-demanding titles?
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Dec 27, 2019 21:13
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I'm looking for some advice about a build I'm considering. I'm in the US. I game on my computer(1080, 144 hertz freesync monitor). My current system is a i5-3750 with an RX 480 graphic card. My system is mostly fine now, but I do get more frame rate drops than I'd like sometimes. Overwatch in particular can be annoying if I don't make a point of closing other programs before playing. That's making me think it's mostly a CPU issue. Another potential bottleneck in my current system is that I'm running 8gb of ram in single channel mode, after I tracked down a blue screen issue to the paired stick. What I'm thinking is this: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($309.99 @ Walmart) Motherboard: *ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming 4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($152.98 @ Newegg) Memory: *OLOy 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg) Storage: *Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Define C ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.68 @ Walmart) Power Supply: *Corsair TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($73.98 @ Newegg) Total: $833.61 The exact memory/MB/SSD aren't final, just what pcpp picked from my filters. I know the general advice is to go for the 3600 over the 3700x for gaming, but I feel like my choice of the i5-3570 over a dual core 8 years ago really paid off. Likewise with memory, I'd rather overbuy now, stick it in and forget it. Plus I've heard that 16x2 might be slightly better than the 8x2 speed wise even if you don't need that much ram. My big question is about the video card. My freesync monitor locks me into AMD. I like my monitor and don't really want to spend more for another. The only real options seem to be the 580(not too much of an upgrade), the 5500XT(about like the 580), and the 5700/5700XT. I think those are a bit overkill for me(like 80% of my gaming is Overwatch and World of Warcraft). Would using the 480 in the above system be an okay idea? My budget does have room for a 5700 or 5700xt technically, but I'd really rather skip it. I do think the new processor would take care of most of my issues, and I could upgrade the video card when a better option/more need comes along. Yes, I know it's kinda ironic I'm trying to future-proof on the processor and memory, but want to stick with a 3 year old video card. Swapping a video card is a lot easier than futzing around with swapping a CPU or trying to find more memory that's a generation behind the new standard, though.
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Dec 27, 2019 21:23
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4K gaming for PC's is pretty difficult to hit without sinking a ton of money into the GPU (2080Ti), and even then, games can be hit or miss quality wise.
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Dec 27, 2019 21:27
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torgo posted:I'm looking for some advice about a build I'm considering. I'm in the US. I game on my computer(1080, 144 hertz freesync monitor). Newer NVidia cards now support Freesync over DisplayPort. So long as your monitor isn't limited to HDMI, you're not stuck with AMD anymore! You should have a decent sense of how the 480 does in the games you play - it's not going to be significantly different with the new computer outside of improved frame rate stability and maybe a bit better performance in cpu-limited situations like WoW raids. You can always buy a new one later, so don't feel pressured to upgrade now if the 480 is sufficient for what you want to do. Some general comments on PCPP's filter recommendations in the build: CPU Cooler: If you're sensitive to noise, you might want to consider getting an aftermarket cooler. The stock cooler keeps temperatures under control, but a $20 Gammaxx 400 or $30 Arctic Freezer 34 (or one of it's black variants) would be quieter. The Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B is the splurge option. Motherboard: ASRock's cheaper X570 boards have some memory compatibility issues. I'd recommend the Asus TUF Gaming if you want an X570. If you don't care about the extra features, a Tomahawk MAX would save $50. Memory: Spend an extra $10 for a kit that's QVL for the board, or maybe even a 3600 kit with excellent timings. Storage: I don't like recommend QLC SSDs as system drives if you can avoid them. Either get a SATA WD Blue for the same price or spend an extra $10 for a proper TLC NVMe drive. Case: The Define C is a solid choice, but the better airflow of the Meshify C usually more than balances the fact that it's slightly noisier. Power Supply: Just $6 more gets you a fully-modular Corsair RMx 550W with a 10-year warranty (vs the TXM's 7 years). Or go for this ridiculous deal on a Seasonic Prime Ultra Platinum.
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Dec 27, 2019 22:18
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Stickman posted:Recommendations Thanks. Those parts I picked were definitely tentative, and I figured I would have to look around a bit more to find the right MB and SSD. The power supply you recommended looks nicer.
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Dec 27, 2019 23:09
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Stickman posted:From that picture, it looks like the i/o shield is installed with the lip overlapping the case on the left but not on the right. Is it possible to install without overlapping the case on either side, or maybe overlapping the right but not the left? That should shift it to the right a bit. Yeah, I installed the IO Shield from a hole in the bottom of that area of the case, rather than installing from inside the case, which made it much closer to the motherboard, so it fits now. Currently most parts I've tried work when I turn on (PowerSource, lights, fans, back USB) aside from the motherboards HDMI. Graphics card HDMI works so I can get around, but any idea why that would be? Is it a one or the other type of thing?
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Dec 27, 2019 23:11
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SadBag posted:Currently most parts I've tried work when I turn on (PowerSource, lights, fans, back USB) aside from the motherboards HDMI. Graphics card HDMI works so I can get around, but any idea why that would be? Is it a one or the other type of thing?
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Dec 27, 2019 23:21
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SadBag posted:aside from the motherboards HDMI. Graphics card HDMI works so I can get around, but any idea why that would be? Is it a one or the other type of thing? As already stated, the motherboard display connections are for processors that have integrated graphics. Your processor does not have integrated graphics. It "works" just fine, it shouldn't be displaying anything when plugged in 
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Dec 27, 2019 23:35
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Sweet. Thanks for the help.
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Dec 27, 2019 23:45
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Thom P. Tiers posted:4K gaming for PC's is pretty difficult to hit without sinking a ton of money into the GPU (2080Ti), and even then, games can be hit or miss quality wise. Looks like I'll be skipping 4K for my next build. Is the visual fidelity that much better in 4K compared to 1080p that I seem silly for wanting a smooth 60fps over 30fps?
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Dec 28, 2019 01:57
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punk rebel ecks posted:I'm planning on upgrading my PC next year or so on the occasion on the next gen. I'm shooting for a powerful CPU, 16GB of RAM, and an above average GPU that will likely be notably more powerful than next gen consoles but not by much. punk rebel ecks posted:Looks like I'll be skipping 4K for my next build. Is the visual fidelity that much better in 4K compared to 1080p that I seem silly for wanting a smooth 60fps over 30fps? Most TVs are 4k these days anyway, aren't they? I got a fairly low-end 43" Samsung LED and that's 4k. The LG 9-Series OLEDs now support adaptive sync (HDMI VRR, and only 16XX and 20XX cards) over HDMI 2.1 with a firmware update, and they do 4k @60hz and 1440p @120hz (which apparently scales down very nicely). Of course, they're also very expensive OLED TVs! Get something like a 2070 Super which can push over 60fps at 1440p. And you could always just get a 1440p 144hz monitor to tide you over, unless you only use a TV. It seems to be a running theme of the thread where people haven't really looked at how pc performance has changed over the last few years. You'll get more out of high fps and a FreeSync/G-SYNC monitor that can support it, rather than enormous resolution, I think. Coucho Marx fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Dec 28, 2019 |
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Dec 28, 2019 02:21
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Maybe I'm in the minority here but 4k (or 4k-ish with resolution scalers) at medium-high settings looks way better than 1080p or even 1440p on ultra IMO. It's true that you need to spend a ton to get a solid 60fps in the most demanding titles on ultra, but I have a rx 5700 (flashed to an XT bios) and I'm gaming in 4k on medium-high settings (or just ultra settings for the 90% of games that aren't graphics showpieces) at 60fps and it's a perfectly fine experience? Like my setup runs Sekiro/Code Vein/DMC 5 at 4k ultra with nothing turned down, 60fps. I get a 60fps in Monster Hunter World if I turn the resolution scaler to 75% of 4k and turn the fog off (which I'd do anyway) and change nothing else. For some games (Assassin's Creed Origins especially)I have to go down to 1440 or just settle for drops to 50fps, but I think it's important to consider what sort of games you want to play when deciding whether 4k is unattainable.
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Dec 28, 2019 03:25
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Gnumonic posted:Maybe I'm in the minority here but 4k (or 4k-ish with resolution scalers) at medium-high settings looks way better than 1080p or even 1440p on ultra IMO. It's true that you need to spend a ton to get a solid 60fps in the most demanding titles on ultra, but I have a rx 5700 (flashed to an XT bios) and I'm gaming in 4k on medium-high settings (or just ultra settings for the 90% of games that aren't graphics showpieces) at 60fps and it's a perfectly fine experience? I hear what you are saying but 60 FPS for me as a 1% low is the absolute minimum I consider tolerable these days. With a subject matter like recommendations, I don't think it is a good idea to oversell folks on what gear can and can't do. The last thing I would want is to be told X build can do gaming at 60 FPS on 4k, spend on a 4k monitor and get less than a satisfactory experience especially one that ages poorly in the next 12-18 months. I would rather undersell them, tell them that a 5700XT is a 1440p card and have them be happy their performance over that same timespan with minimal fiddling on settings trying to optimize the game to a playable experience.
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Dec 28, 2019 03:46
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Coucho Marx posted:Most TVs are 4k these days anyway, aren't they? I got a fairly low-end 43" Samsung LED and that's 4k. The LG 9-Series OLEDs now support adaptive sync (HDMI VRR, and only 16XX and 20XX cards) over HDMI 2.1 with a firmware update, and they do 4k @60hz and 1440p @120hz (which apparently scales down very nicely). Of course, they're also very expensive OLED TVs! Get something like a 2070 Super which can push over 60fps at 1440p. And you could always just get a 1440p 144hz monitor to tide you over, unless you only use a TV. Yeah, I haven't been keeping up with specs at all. All I know is that AMD has 8-core CPUs more or less as good as the i9900k without paying an arm and a leg. I want to get a 4K TV but I heard that OLED is way better than LED, so I want to get an OLED one. Freesync/Gsync interest me but they only go up to like 30 inches. I hook my PC up to my living room TV.
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Dec 28, 2019 05:41
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punk rebel ecks posted:Yeah, I haven't been keeping up with specs at all. All I know is that AMD has 8-core CPUs more or less as good as the i9900k without paying an arm and a leg. Yeah, you'd have to get a tv then. The LG B9/C9/E9 go from 55" to I think 77", depending on model.
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Dec 28, 2019 05:45
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Coucho Marx posted:Yeah, you'd have to get a tv then. The LG B9/C9/E9 go from 55" to I think 77", depending on model. I want something around 42". I just wanted to know of 4K is viable for someone like me who wants smooth framerates on high-end games.
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Dec 28, 2019 05:47
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You'll need a 2080ti and/or to turn down settings, depending on the game. Sadly, benchmarks at settings other than ultra are basically non-existent, so you're stuck with anecdotal responses. I've got my system hooked up to a 4k (2600, 1660ti) but I don't play super demanding games. It won't hold 60fps in destiny 2 at med-high settings, usually being in the 45-55 range. I think Gnumoic's post is the closest you're going to get to a concrete answer to your question, though other 4k goons may be able to chime in with their experiences.Gnumonic posted:Maybe I'm in the minority here but 4k (or 4k-ish with resolution scalers) at medium-high settings looks way better than 1080p or even 1440p on ultra IMO. It's true that you need to spend a ton to get a solid 60fps in the most demanding titles on ultra, but I have a rx 5700 (flashed to an XT bios) and I'm gaming in 4k on medium-high settings (or just ultra settings for the 90% of games that aren't graphics showpieces) at 60fps and it's a perfectly fine experience?
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Dec 28, 2019 06:58
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I just built this thing after much advice from this thread. I really appreciate all the time spent here answering the same questions over and over. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($314.99 @ Walmart) CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($48.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($188.99 @ B&H) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($159.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ B&H) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($519.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Define C ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.68 @ Walmart) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($108.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1528.61 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-28 00:46 EST-0500 I'm coming from a 4690K GTX970 PC that could still punch it out with most games but I just dropped 400 bucks on a 32inch 144hz LG that I wanted to start putting to good use. Some things I noticed having not built a PC in a while: Are case manufacturers not putting speaker or power light LEDs on their cases anymore? I think the power wire is just linked to another wire but there's no POST beep codes, this is normal now? Chaos. Got a bad PCIe power cable that had me making GBS threads my pants for 5 minutes until I got to switching the cable to troubleshoot. Corsair, really? I had read before but had forgotten until I noticed in the BIOS that XMP still isn't an industry standard and that ASUS calls their something different apparently (DOCP). So I'm glad I noticed that because my buddy built a nearly identical system a few weeks ago and had no idea he was running his 3600 ddr4 at 2133. The Fractal Define C is a goshdarn dream to build in. I'll find out how the audible the thing is under full load but that's for tomorrow when I actually put games on it. Thanks again goons!
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Dec 28, 2019 07:06
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