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Um excuse me, my highly accurate military miniature is not a "toy"
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Dec 19, 2019 21:12
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| # ? May 16, 2024 10:28 |
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I irrevocably hosed up the centerpiece decal on this P-47 I'm working on. Now my options are to either finish the build without the airplane's name on the nose, or to spend $25 for one decal. ugh.
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Dec 21, 2019 04:49
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Gewehr 43 posted:I irrevocably hosed up the centerpiece decal on this P-47 I'm working on. Now my options are to either finish the build without the airplane's name on the nose, or to spend $25 for one decal. ugh. There's a third option: freehand dickbutt.
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Dec 21, 2019 05:36
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Blue Footed Booby posted:There's a third option: freehand dickbutt. Seems like theres only one option then
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Dec 21, 2019 21:51
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Gewehr 43 posted:I irrevocably hosed up the centerpiece decal on this P-47 I'm working on. Now my options are to either finish the build without the airplane's name on the nose, or to spend $25 for one decal. ugh. Surely there's gotta be some kind of aftermarket decal that doesn't cost that much?
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Dec 25, 2019 23:03
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Gewehr 43 posted:I irrevocably hosed up the centerpiece decal on this P-47 I'm working on. Now my options are to either finish the build without the airplane's name on the nose, or to spend $25 for one decal. ugh. What about some bullet holes and torn metal right on the decal area. Make it look like a battle-damaged plane.
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Dec 25, 2019 23:10
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Charliegrs posted:Surely there's gotta be some kind of aftermarket decal that doesn't cost that much? They make DIY slide label paper. You could make as many as you like.
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Dec 26, 2019 02:15
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Thanks for the suggestions, gang. Unfortunately, the decals were just one of many ways that this stupid kit fought me, so I've already called it done. This was one of those kits that, despite my best efforts, everything went wrong and it just fought me at every turn. Decals were lovely - they were aftermarket decals from Zotz and they sucked - finish didn't turn out well, canopy fogged for no apparent reason, and so on... So, gently caress it - it's already hanging from my son's ceiling next to the B-17, and kiddo loves it. So, it's about the best I can hope to salvage from this lovely build. I'm now on to a 1/350th scale model of the USS Heerman which - knock on wood - is off to a much better start.
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Dec 26, 2019 16:55
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More adventures in rust. This is going to be another burned out tank. My process was to put down Vallejo German Red-Brown primer, apply a coat of very splotchy and uneven Golden Acrylic Yellow Oxide, dull the contrast with Golden Acrylic Transparent Brown Iron Oxide, and then highlight raised areas with Golden Acrylic Transparent Red Oxide. I'm definitely going to put some pigments over it for added texture, but I'm pretty happy with the start.
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Dec 27, 2019 21:05
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I have a car that I need to apply clearcoat too. I do it with a rattle can outside but its been raining like crazy for about 2 days now. It finally stopped but as you can image the air is reallyyy humid also its in the high 40s fahrenheit. Would it be a bad idea to clearcoat the car right now? I dont know if the humidity and cold temperature would have an adverse effect on the clear.
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Dec 27, 2019 22:21
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Calling this T-55 I grabbed from the grocery store done. 1:72 scale, Revell. Painted mostly with vallejos acrylics by hand. Never built a kit in 1:72 scale and I've had a couple of years break from the hobby. A quick and fun build.    Heres a pic before assembling the upper hull. Maybe I'll finish that AMX in the back one of these days. 
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Dec 27, 2019 23:03
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Overdude posted:Calling this T-55 I grabbed from the grocery store done. 1:72 scale, Revell. Painted mostly with vallejos acrylics by hand. Never built a kit in 1:72 scale and I've had a couple of years break from the hobby. A quick and fun build.  thats amazingly nice!
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Dec 27, 2019 23:10
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Overdude posted:Calling this T-55 I grabbed from the grocery store done. 1:72 scale, Revell. Painted mostly with vallejos acrylics by hand. Never built a kit in 1:72 scale and I've had a couple of years break from the hobby. A quick and fun build. Shiiit, I'd be pretty happy if I pulled that off with a 1/35, let alone a 1/72. Tiny tanks own, and I'm sad there aren't more out there.
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Dec 28, 2019 00:09
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1/72 is crazy popular. I have posted nothing but it in this thread. Name a tank and you can likely find a kit in that scale, often for under a tenner.
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Dec 28, 2019 03:11
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What manufacturers do you recommend for armor in that scale?
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Dec 28, 2019 20:18
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Its a hit and miss, but this site has a lot of good reviews.
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Dec 29, 2019 01:12
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Would anyone happen to know what thickness I’d need to represent 1/20 scale rope/paracord? Or alternatively if I (almost certainly) get lazy does anyone produce cargo-netting in that scale?
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Dec 29, 2019 11:43
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ijyt posted:Would anyone happen to know what thickness I’d need to represent 1/20 scale rope/paracord? Or alternatively if I (almost certainly) get lazy does anyone produce cargo-netting in that scale? I guess it would depend on the thickness of the rope. If it is 1/2" rope, you'd divide that by 20 (.5/20=.025) and then use a lookup table to convert that to the nearest wire gauge (.0253"=22AWG). If you want it to look like ropes, then you'd get stranded wire which would need to be stripped and twisted. Other than that, you can get bare copper wire. Either way, 22AWG wire is extremely common and will be available in any hardware store. Other even-numbered AWG wires should be pretty easy to find as well. For something a little more pliable than wire, you could get .6mm (0.0236") solder which is also pretty common but a bit more expensive than copper or aluminum wire. With all that being said, stranded wire would be a bitch to make cargo-netting out of because it is somewhat springy in the sense that it doesn't stay where you bend it, so I would go with solder. Safety disclaimer: If you use leaded solder, don't feed it to small children.
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Dec 29, 2019 12:11
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grassy gnoll posted:What manufacturers do you recommend for armor in that scale?
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Dec 29, 2019 17:01
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Molentik posted:Its a hit and miss, but this site has a lot of good reviews. Arquinsiel posted:I'm really liking S-model at the moment for being cheap simple kits that come two to a box for about a tenner. They do a lot of weirder subjects and are "wargames standard" simple sturdy kits with a sheet of brass etch if you want to go nuts. Otherwise Hasegawa are nice, Revell are decent, Fujimi I have very little experience with, Italieri are good, and Airfix are Airfix. Thank you both. At the risk of exposing my ignorance more than normal, how are Revell kits in general? My only experience with them is from the crappy Revell-Monogram kits you could buy in US big box stores in the 90s.
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Dec 29, 2019 18:04
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Arquinsiel posted:and Airfix are Airfix.
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Dec 29, 2019 18:08
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SkunkDuster posted:I guess it would depend on the thickness of the rope. If it is 1/2" rope, you'd divide that by 20 (.5/20=.025) and then use a lookup table to convert that to the nearest wire gauge (.0253"=22AWG). If you want it to look like ropes, then you'd get stranded wire which would need to be stripped and twisted. Other than that, you can get bare copper wire. Either way, 22AWG wire is extremely common and will be available in any hardware store. Other even-numbered AWG wires should be pretty easy to find as well. For something a little more pliable than wire, you could get .6mm (0.0236") solder which is also pretty common but a bit more expensive than copper or aluminum wire. With all that being said, stranded wire would be a bitch to make cargo-netting out of because it is somewhat springy in the sense that it doesn't stay where you bend it, so I would go with solder. Safety disclaimer: If you use leaded solder, don't feed it to small children. Awesome, thanks for that - I’ll see what I can get locally.
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Dec 29, 2019 19:02
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Pierzak posted:Which probably means gently caress-all to someone asking about brands in general, and definitely to me as another person looking for similar info. I mean, there was this one Airfix crapkit but I was drunk and have no idea if it's an exception or the rule.
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Dec 29, 2019 19:04
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Pierzak posted:Which probably means gently caress-all to someone asking about brands in general, and definitely to me as another person looking for similar info. I mean, there was this one Airfix crapkit but I was drunk and have no idea if it's an exception or the rule.
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Dec 29, 2019 19:40
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Slugworth posted:Not good, largely speaking. Every brand has its gems though, so it's always worth reading reviews on whatever kit you're looking at. Except Lindberg.
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Dec 29, 2019 19:49
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Arquinsiel posted:I'm really liking S-model at the moment for being cheap simple kits that come two to a box for about a tenner. They do a lot of weirder subjects and are "wargames standard" simple sturdy kits with a sheet of brass etch if you want to go nuts. Otherwise Hasegawa are nice, Revell are decent, Fujimi I have very little experience with, Italieri are good, and Airfix are Airfix. Does that hold true for plane models as well? I've been warned about tank tracks so I'll probably do 2-3 easy-ish planes first to get used to scale modeling techniques.
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Dec 29, 2019 20:04
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Ensign Expendable posted:Except Lindberg. Guaranteed to be terrible and lack any redeeming charm. I built a Lindberg T-55 and it was the blandest kit ever. Airfix has been hit and miss. Did one and it was awesome, did a different one and it was all mold lines and defects. I'm currently working on an Eduard kit and it's really awesome.
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Dec 29, 2019 20:15
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Pierzak posted:Does that hold true for plane models as well? I've been warned about tank tracks so I'll probably do 2-3 easy-ish planes first to get used to scale modeling techniques. I am not a big plane builder, but Airfix ones I have done have been okay at best. The wing roots tend to need a lot of filling and sanding.
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Dec 29, 2019 20:30
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Arquinsiel posted:I am not a big plane builder, but Airfix ones I have done have been okay at best. The wing roots tend to need a lot of filling and sanding.
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Dec 29, 2019 20:34
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grassy gnoll posted:Thank you both. As someone who mostly builds Revell, the answer is "highly variable but overall decent". New molds from them tend to be pretty good, but they will also borrow from other manufacturers and occasionally repop an old or even ancient mold without any real way to know this beforehand other than a suspiciously low parts count or being able to tell from the few pictures on the back of the box. Checking Scalemates for mold history and reviews helps a lot. The full color instruction manuals they have these days are pretty neat though.
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Dec 29, 2019 20:42
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Pierzak posted:I meant all the brands you listed, not just Airfix.
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Dec 30, 2019 00:53
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Pierzak posted:Does that hold true for plane models as well? I've been warned about tank tracks so I'll probably do 2-3 easy-ish planes first to get used to scale modeling techniques. Tamiya is your best bet for planes. I haven't really heard any bad things about any tamiya builds (accuracy and detail aside), even old ones. If you're fine with ordering from amazon.jp or japanese hobby sites, it's hard to beat tamiya's value. Other plane manufacturers can overcomplicate things (Eduard). Or are inconsistent (airfix).
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Dec 30, 2019 01:00
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I really have mixed feelings about eduard's photo etched cockpit details. They have great detail but always look flat. Tamiya is great but assembly can be finicky at times. The corsair I built was a nightmare when it comes to the landing gear and wings. The plane wobbles if you touch it because of the gear
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Dec 30, 2019 01:14
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Pierzak posted:Does that hold true for plane models as well? I've been warned about tank tracks so I'll probably do 2-3 easy-ish planes first to get used to scale modeling techniques. Get some Tamiya 1/72s. They'll go together nicely and they're quite sharp-looking, especially at the price point. As much as it pains me to recommend a German WWII item, the Bf-109G in that scale is one of their newest, best engineered products. Hasegawa is a perennial runner-up of a company. They're almost as good as Tamiya, but they're not quite there. You can usually find their stuff for pretty cheap, so if you need some parts or want a kit you can basically throw away, they're a good choice. Eduard has some great options. They make some more esoteric plane options, but their engineering isn't great sometimes. You'll do at least some filling, and they can be a major pain in the rear end to assemble.
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Dec 30, 2019 03:31
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Quick tip to save some money. People looking to save some cash on a generic version of plastic cement, ie Tenax/Ambroid/Plastiweld/Bondene/Tamiya Extra Thin, have recommended MEK (Methyl-Ethyl Ketone). I went a different route today, and bought a liter of Methyl Chloride, also know as Chloromethane. MEK has typically been a "just as good" replacement, but Methyl Chloride is the actual main chemical used in most plastic cements. Tried it out, and works the exact same as the typical Plast-I-Weld I use. And a liter will last me near forever. It's super cheap as well, I got the liter here in Canada for $20, it would be even cheaper in the states. It can occasionally be hard to find locally, as it's normally only sold in specialty shops. Check the web for local sources, it's quite popular in sign-making shops and suppliers, or tv/film F/X material shops. SciGrip #3 also contains about 80% Methyl Chloride, with a few other chems in there. Should perform just the same, and be a bit easier to find. I got my tin at Coast Fiber-Tek, but they recently updated their website and don't do websales yet, so it's only for local Vancouverites.
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Dec 31, 2019 00:39
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How does it smell and taste though
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Dec 31, 2019 00:46
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Let me go check and report back tomorrow when I come to.
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Dec 31, 2019 01:04
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Quick tip to save some money.
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Dec 31, 2019 01:28
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given how often i leave the cap off the tamiya extra thin to have half of it evaporate away this is super useful
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Dec 31, 2019 01:31
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| # ? May 16, 2024 10:28 |
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Wood glue goes bad long before I can finish a single container. When I first started I bought a huge bottle, but never opened it as I never finished the small bottle I started with, and it's likely bad now so I'll have to get some fresh glue if I ever get back into the shop again.
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Dec 31, 2019 01:49
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