|
Cool, thanks! i just mixed some red black and brown and yeah it does look kinda more like war paint in the end
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2019 18:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 10:03 |
|
|
That Gobbo posted:Mainly a lot of sponging and oil weathering to really grunge it up. Ok, nice, never done that before. Would you think a technique like that would work on something the size of, say, a blightking?
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2019 21:06
|
|
|
Doing a bit more work on the Primaris Apothecary. Having fun with this so far, gently caress knows how the 'Eavy Metal guys get such thin, neat lines on the holsters!
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 00:21
|
|
|
Dr. Red Ranger posted:Ok, nice, never done that before. Would you think a technique like that would work on something the size of, say, a blightking? Totally! I did something pretty similar on one of the Space Marine Heroes Terminators:   For this guy I did sponge weathering with steel on the red plates and did a light dusting of pigment on the legs to bring the mini and the base together. The main thing is to do the sponging pretty sparingly because it's really easy to overdo it. Once you do that you can go in with oils to do some vertical streaking, which looks great on vehicles, or go lightly across a whole plate to give it a real grungy look. Oils can really help give more texture to a mini. Also one thing I did forget to mention on the knight is that I did a healthy dusting of pigment on the legs and feet.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 00:40
|
|
|
Count_Brass posted:Doing a bit more work on the Primaris Apothecary. Having fun with this so far, gently caress knows how the 'Eavy Metal guys get such thin, neat lines on the holsters! That looks so crisp! 
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 00:46
|
|
|
Getting back into painting after not doing any for like a year Accidentally painted Ork Duke Nukem  This one's still pretty red which works for Duke Nukem, but I've been trying a few different things and I think I've settled on doing my Freebooterz in a dark maroon color, should stand out from Evil Sunz Red but still looks pretty good with green skin. Also all kinds of gold accents, like gold teeth and golden guns. Looks pretty good by my eye but any pictures I try to take come out looking pretty crap. Ordered a light box so maybe I can fix that, not that my painting skills are great anyways but hey. E: I wonder if I can sculpt some greenstuff shades for Ork Nukem... Zaphod42 fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Dec 29, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 00:57
|
|
|
Today I transferred my Citadel Khorne Red to a drip bottle, and I guess I kinda regret the decision? The positive to this is that I now have an easier way to use what was a thick and messy paint, no more large mess from the citadel bottle, where the paint is so thick and heavy, the cap doesn't even stay open. The disadvantage is that it feels like I just wasted a lot of the Khorne Red to the funnel and just not being able to transfer all of it out of the bottle. A lot of it gets wasted as is from just the Citadel bottle as is and maybe that is just the nature of these paints and something to accept. I am thinking a better alternative would be to buy the vallejo alternatives of the most popular Citadel paints that I use.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 01:57
|
|
|
There are so many quality paint brands out there there's not much reason to buy Citadel if you don't like the bottles, unless you're trying to perfectly match an existing paint scheme.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 02:24
|
|
|
The Moon Monster posted:There are so many quality paint brands out there there's not much reason to buy Citadel if you don't like the bottles, unless you're trying to perfectly match an existing paint scheme. I've been going with Citadel because that is what I started with, so for consistency of my collection, I decided to stay with it. As time has gone on i've been less and less tolerant of the quality of these bottles. The paints themselves are great, it's just the bottles that are god awful.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 02:31
|
|
|
More gribblies!
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 02:59
|
|
|
That Gobbo posted:Totally! I did something pretty similar on one of the Space Marine Heroes Terminators: This guy owns, I need to get some of those terminators.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 03:08
|
|
|
I said come in! posted:Today I transferred my Citadel Khorne Red to a drip bottle, and I guess I kinda regret the decision? The positive to this is that I now have an easier way to use what was a thick and messy paint, no more large mess from the citadel bottle, where the paint is so thick and heavy, the cap doesn't even stay open. The disadvantage is that it feels like I just wasted a lot of the Khorne Red to the funnel and just not being able to transfer all of it out of the bottle. A lot of it gets wasted as is from just the Citadel bottle as is and maybe that is just the nature of these paints and something to accept. You can add some flow improver and water to the pot and shake the remains out. You'll be thinning the paint down anyway so this won't effect it at all.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 03:08
|
|
|
Wrapped up the lizard lord for my Slaves to Darkness.  
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 03:11
|
|
|
Dr. Red Ranger posted:Ok, nice, never done that before. Would you think a technique like that would work on something the size of, say, a blightking? Oil weathering is extremely good for streaking and grime on this scale of stuff. Tutorial from our own Bulbasaur. This video shows the dragging and smudging that is most useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3phIkEMgq8I
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 03:11
|
|
|
I said come in! posted:I've been going with Citadel because that is what I started with, so for consistency of my collection, I decided to stay with it. As time has gone on i've been less and less tolerant of the quality of these bottles. The paints themselves are great, it's just the bottles that are god awful. I transferred a bunch of my Citadel paints into bottles using one of the tutorials found around the Internet, and I've generally regretted it. The paints by themselves are too thick to pour easily, and adding a couple of drops of flow improver to help that out has a negative effect on their consistency during use. The paints that I've picked up since then I've left in the pots and been happier with them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 05:13
|
|
|
So I've gotten a few Contrast paints, and by and large I've been pretty impressed with them. Painting stuff like WW2 Russians has been a breeze (there's a couple guides out there about how to paint WW2 minis with Contrast paints), and I've been experimenting with Contrast paints for other stuff (like a Dark Eldar/Drukhari Kill Team). Guilliman Flesh is a huge godsend, as are some of the other shades like Skeleton Horde and Snakebite Leather. I have dabbled with using other inks/washes (like the Army Painter stuff) to achieve the same effect as Contrast paints over a light basecoat, but there is definitely something to be said for having a shade pretty much ready to go straight out of the bottle. One thing I've also been experimenting with is trying out different basecoats. From what I've read, Contrast paint generally works better over a more satiny surface, so to this end I bought a few "satin finish" craft paints, to use as basecoats for applying contrast. Got a couple light beige colors, a couple of light grays, and a slightly off-white color. I've also found that Contrast works really well over Army Painter Skeleton Bone (the bottle paint, not the spray), Stynylrez Neutral Yellow, and Vallejo brush-on primers (like their grey and Skeleton Bone primers). Overall, I plan on eventually getting all the colors in the range. Like a lot of people jave said, they definitely won't replace my normal paints and painting techniques. But for getting certain things done in a hurry, they've been really good so far.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 11:36
|
|
|
I was unhappy with my latest Plague Marines after the gloss varnish cured, they were too clean so I decided to shade the edges again with Agrax before applying the matte varnish. I've got to say washes behave very differently over varnish vs paint. I have much more control over the wash now because I can basically push it around until it dries as opposed to over paint where it starts to get absorbed quickly. I highlighted up my stinky boys more than I usually see in pics or videos because I like my models to pop but now I can shade them to grime them up without undoing the highlights so I'm much happier with my results.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 17:08
|
|
|
Filthy Hans posted:I was unhappy with my latest Plague Marines after the gloss varnish cured, they were too clean so I decided to shade the edges again with Agrax before applying the matte varnish. I've got to say washes behave very differently over varnish vs paint. I have much more control over the wash now because I can basically push it around until it dries as opposed to over paint where it starts to get absorbed quickly. I highlighted up my stinky boys more than I usually see in pics or videos because I like my models to pop but now I can shade them to grime them up without undoing the highlights so I'm much happier with my results. Try it with the gloss version of agrax over your gloss varnish to get that effect but even more (or with oil/enamel washes to give you even more dry time).
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 17:24
|
|
|
 Painted a Warcry guy. The Splintered Fang models are incredibly good. Each model just oozes character.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 18:14
|
|
|
Booley posted:Try it with the gloss version of agrax over your gloss varnish to get that effect but even more (or with oil/enamel washes to give you even more dry time). Yeah I'm going to keep playing around with the stuff. My latest model is a noxious blightbringer and I gave it a matte varnish after blocking in and the first wash, because I find that I often rub off parts of the wash while I'm handling the model. I'll take the opportunity to experiment with washing over the matte varnish to see how that behaves in comparison to gloss or no varnish. Another thing I started with this model is using more than one wash per part - normally I base my trim with balthasar gold, then wash with agrax and highlight with VGC bright bronze. I saw in some video that someone was using multiple washes to differentiate the metals so on the blightbringer I did the normal routine for the armor trim but I did an additional wash of Army Painter flesh tone on all the bells, which gave them a richer, redder color, and the difference remains after highlighting. It really does differentiate the metals nicely.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2019 21:04
|
|
|
I painted my dudes mostly un-assembled should I put washes on them before or after glueing them? Also should I matte varnish all my dudes?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 00:34
|
|
|
Ropes4u posted:I painted my dudes mostly un-assembled should I put washes on them before or after glueing them? I generally wash my minis in sub-assemblies, I don't see any issues. Varnishes have a couple of considerations: 1. Wear/Handling - How often are your minis going to be handled? If it's a display piece it may not be necessary. If you're slinging them around a table every weekend then it'd be a good idea to prevent paint rubbing off. 2. Finish - Varnishing is part of the painting process, not just "aftercare" and effects the rest of your work. How do you want the overall finish to look? Have you used for instance any "technical" paints that could be affected (e.g. a blood effect?) I like to mix brands of paint (specifically matte Scale75 and satin GW) so a varnish over the top would ruin the effects I'm going for. *Edit* 3. Brand of matte varnish - Dullcote seems to be popular so I'd imagine you can't go far wrong but brands aren't created equally. AK Interactive Ultra Matte for instance is VERY matte compared to Vallejo. Count_Brass fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Dec 30, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 01:10
|
|
|
Are there any methods for stripping away old superglue gunk? I’m restoring my old 3rd Edition Necron army and I’ve got a broken Wraith that just will not glue back together because he’s been broken and re-glued so many times that there’s a ton of build-up preventing things from fitting flush. If I could strip it back down to the bare pewter I might be able to get it together again. It’s a neat looking model, but it’s designed really poorly - the one major point of assembly is dead-center in the thinnest part of the model (the tail) instead of making the tail one piece and have the torso be separate. If they’d done it that way with a ball socket like the Necron Warrior, you could have posed the thing in various ways, too. Oh well, one of the many reasons they redesigned that model from the ground up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 01:36
|
|
|
Count_Brass posted:I generally wash my minis in sub-assemblies, I don't see any issues. Varnishes have a couple of considerations: Thank you, in the future I need to start thinking ahead more and putting together a plan.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 01:38
|
|
|
Xenomrph posted:Are there any methods for stripping away old superglue gunk? I’m restoring my old 3rd Edition Necron army and I’ve got a broken Wraith that just will not glue back together because he’s been broken and re-glued so many times that there’s a ton of build-up preventing things from fitting flush. If I could strip it back down to the bare pewter I might be able to get it together again. Freezing will make superglue brittle and easier to break off with a pick or similar. It feels like I've had an easier time removing old glue from models I've been soaking in isopropyl alcohol to strip the paint, but that might just have been because the glue was stuck to the paint rather than the metal. Can't hurt if you need to strip the paint anyway, I suppose.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 01:42
|
|
|
I think my two biggest issues with painting right now are: Choice of paint/mixing paint Layering What are ways I can actually practice and improve these techniques? I don't feel like I'm getting better. I've watched tons of video but can't seem to apply. Highlighting is also an issue for me. I feel like finally setting up my wet palette might help but last time I tried it was way too wet. How do you mix paints on a wet palette without ruining brushes I'm a mess!
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 01:43
|
|
|
Xenomrph posted:Are there any methods for stripping away old superglue gunk? I’m restoring my old 3rd Edition Necron army and I’ve got a broken Wraith that just will not glue back together because he’s been broken and re-glued so many times that there’s a ton of build-up preventing things from fitting flush. If I could strip it back down to the bare pewter I might be able to get it together again. An acetone soak will kill basically any superglue buildup. Just make sure you're only leaving the pewter parts in there, since it might eat your plastic base. If you need to be picky, you can dip a cotton swab in the acetone and scrub at it. It'll take longer, of course.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 02:12
|
|
|
Phi230 posted:I think my two biggest issues with painting right now are: I mix paints on my wet palette with the edge of a toothpick, it works pretty well for me. One thing to remember when you're using a wet palette is when NOT to use it, for example metallics can separate when they get too wet so you want to use a dry palette for them. I also prefer using washes off a dry palette when I want to get very small amounts of wash on my brush at a time. You can practice your painting on the sprues, they're mostly flat surfaces and save you from painting your models so much you lose detail on them. Prime them the same way you do your models.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 02:43
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:An acetone soak will kill basically any superglue buildup. Just make sure you're only leaving the pewter parts in there, since it might eat your plastic base. Seconding this. Acetone will strip everything off a metal miniature and destroy all plastic.It turns superglue residue into a kind of weird jelly that just comes off.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 03:07
|
|
|
i effing love space wolves and these dudes are starting to become an actual army didnt realize until i put them next to each other that the primaris dudes are significantly larger than the regular dudes  gotta figure out how to get more creative with the bases. also the primaris dudes i have i got in the first strike kit and they are the 'easy to assemble' models with the big plastic strip under the feet and theres a hole in the base for them which i dont like finally, got a bad rear end warp crate and instead of a mix of randos who are cemented together and in various states of paint, i got this:     they also threw these in, which i probably won't use for them but are brand new and still appreciated:  and i sure as poo poo am going to assemble these things properly:  v excited
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 03:28
|
|
|
im pooping! posted:i effing love space wolves I'm into it, ignore all the assholes who are gonna give you poo poo. TTerrible posted:Seconding this. Acetone will strip everything off a metal miniature and destroy all plastic.It turns superglue residue into a kind of weird jelly that just comes off. 3rd. It's tits.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 06:11
|
|
|
I was just at my last white elephant party of the year and ended up with a pair of these mighty sight glasses. My response was, "hey these might help in painting miniatures, cool." Which was not the reaction the gift buyer expected, who bought them as a useless prank gift.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 07:54
|
|
|
im pooping! posted:i effing love space wolves and these dudes are starting to become an actual army Those are super cool. I really like the almost black pin wash with the light blue, looks really cool. Makes me think that I should have used a dark wash on my imperial fists instead of the watered down sepia one.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 09:51
|
|
|
Cross posting from the 40k thread:JackMann posted:Finished up the start of my Iron Hands army.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 09:58
|
|
|
I really wish I hadn’t put the imperial fist upgrade-sprue shoulders on my guys and just used the transfers. Those moulded shoulder-pads are one of the worst things I’ve ever had the displeasure of painting. It’s like impossible to get a clean black circle that doesn’t leave tiny marks outside the circle, and I constantly have to try and fix the white inside the circle as I inevitably scape it while trying to do the black circle or fist  E: I’m real bad at painting though, so it may be a me-problem, but god drat. Revelation 2-13 fucked around with this message at 10:41 on Dec 30, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 10:35
|
|
|
Dude. Trying to get a circular decal on a paldron to lay flat is a chore and a half even with all the special salves and annointments.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 11:51
|
|
|
DiHK posted:Dude. Trying to get a circular decal on a paldron to lay flat is a chore and a half even with all the special salves and annointments. Microsol and gently patting it down with a soft brush gets those things on nicely for me every time. You really need to tease it down and the microsol helps turn it super malleable. If it looks like it has teeny tiny wrinkles (and not actually folded parts) those disappear once you gloss over it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 12:12
|
|
|
eegh.... I'm planning on just getting some 3d printed shoulder emblems and painting them before adhering them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 14:08
|
|
|
I all around hate transfers and just choose not to use them unless I’ve got a gun to my head.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 14:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 10:03 |
|
|
Trying to colormatch this orange, ideally in some Vallejo paint. Anyone have recommendations for a base coat/wash etc? Want to do a good job of it. Also I've never painted black before. Recommendations on what to do there?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2019 16:59
|
|
