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Painting black seems counter intuitive because you highlight with white, but once you've done it a little bit or should start to feel natural.
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Dec 30, 2019 17:09
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nesbit37 posted:Painting black seems counter intuitive because you highlight with white, but once you've done it a little bit or should start to feel natural. What do you mean highlight with white? I've always highlighted with grays
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Dec 30, 2019 17:23
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It depends on the color temperature you're going for when you highlight black. Generally a very pale blue grey is the standard but for more reflectivity, white is a good highlight, for more subtle highlights, you'll want to use grays. I've seen some super awesome edge highlights done with red and green but that's a super bold choice and not for everyone. As for the orange and black, I'd suggest looking at Vallejo Mecha paints, they should have what you're looking for and are pre-thinned so you can use them directly from the dropper into your airbrush or palette.
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Dec 30, 2019 17:35
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Cricken_Nigfops posted:It depends on the color temperature you're going for when you highlight black. Generally a very pale blue grey is the standard but for more reflectivity, white is a good highlight, for more subtle highlights, you'll want to use grays. I've seen some super awesome edge highlights done with red and green but that's a super bold choice and not for everyone. So when you say highlight, are you talking mixing up to lighter shades ala layering or a direct application?
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Dec 30, 2019 17:36
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w00tmonger posted:Trying to colormatch this orange, ideally in some Vallejo paint. Anyone have recommendations for a base coat/wash etc? Want to do a good job of it. Vallejo Hot Orange with a sepia oil filter until it's flattened and grimy to your preference.
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Dec 30, 2019 17:38
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Phi230 posted:So when you say highlight, are you talking mixing up to lighter shades ala layering or a direct application? I'm talking about edge highlights, specifically. I should have said so initially, my apologies. The way I like to do it is just direct application of the lighter color on the edges where the light would catch if it was real, and if it's too sharp (aka: it starts to look like a Tron figure) then I can take it down with a wash or glaze.
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Dec 30, 2019 18:13
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grassy gnoll posted:Vallejo Hot Orange with a sepia oil filter until it's flattened and grimy to your preference. Sepia oil paint? I have a sepia ink but don't really know what's involved with oils Happy to learn though
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Dec 30, 2019 18:13
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 I am so bad at photography Cheapo light box has definitely improved my photos a good bit, not the best shot but my models look like garbage this up-close anyways  I think I'm gonna finish out the kill team and get them all to this stage, more or less "battle ready" but I do want to go back and brighten up the skin and add some edge hightlighting.
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Dec 30, 2019 18:19
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Phi230 posted:What do you mean highlight with white? I've always highlighted with grays Yes, your mixing white with your black, and then the highest highlight in full view of your light source should be white.
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Dec 30, 2019 18:29
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w00tmonger posted:Sepia oil paint? I have a sepia ink but don't really know what's involved with oils Pretty much the same thing you'd do with an ink wash, but different media with different properties. In this case, oils take (much) longer to dry than acrylics, which means you have a longer working time. The stuff that thins oils also can be used safely over acrylic varnished models, so you can scrub away the oil wash without damaging your paint underneath. Downsides are it does take a while for your washes to dry, and you'll want to use it in a well-ventilated area. I don't think you need a full respirator unless you're working in an airless closet or for really long periods of time, but it's not great to huff oil paint and turpenoid. If you're not up to learning how to oil wash, you can always get an orange that's about the right shade and try mixing it down or up to what you're aiming for. Sepia ink wouldn't be a terrible choice for a duller, ruddier orange.
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Dec 30, 2019 19:44
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Zaphod42 posted:
how many teeth did that gold shoota cost
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Dec 30, 2019 20:10
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That Gobbo posted:Totally! I did something pretty similar on one of the Space Marine Heroes Terminators: Thanks so much! I have a small project I need to finish once I get some techniques figured out and I think it would be perfect for effect.   I need to figure out water effects for the little channel he's dropping casings into but I think it'll be rad. Dr. Red Ranger fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Dec 30, 2019 |
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Dec 30, 2019 22:33
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Gigantic pics aside that kitbash/conversion is dope, I really like the gross eye on the gun.
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Dec 30, 2019 23:08
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ijyt posted:Gigantic pics aside that kitbash/conversion is dope, I really like the gross eye on the gun. Three eyes, three barrels, figured it would make a nice nurgly multigun. I have a box of blightkings I decided to use as Obiterators themed as Aspects of Nurgle so they'll fit in a CSM army some day. This guy has a cross between a heavy bolter and a demonic botfly. I think the next one will have the scythe bit extended into a spooky plasma cannon and mushrooms sprouting up the other side (because compost generates heat, you see). Also crap I forgot how to image resize, sorry.
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Dec 30, 2019 23:30
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Using timg as your tag instead of img will thumbnail it for you.
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Dec 30, 2019 23:37
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Phi230 posted:What do you mean highlight with white? I've always highlighted with grays So, ignoring for a second that I went lazy on my iron boys and just went with edge highlights... The best way to highlight pure black involves some color, going up to white. Figure out what kind of light and color are in the environment the mini is in and go with that. Outside, in sunlight? Probably more blue from the sky. Indoors? More earthtones and browns. Black takes on the color around it. So does everything, but it's especially noticeable in black, white, and gray, since they're neutral. Highlighting with grays and white doesn't quite look natural, since you don't really see that kind of pure neutral tone very often in the real world. As far as going up to white, in general, with painting anything, you want to go up to white in your highest highlights and black in your deepest shadows. This is more difficult, but it helps your colors to really pop. The big thing to be careful about highlighting black is to not overdo it. If you have too much highlighting, it will cease to read as black. To counter that, just remember that black is both your shadow and your midtone. So if you would normally do 20% shadow, 60% midtone, and 20% highlight, you'll do 80% black and 20% highlight. White works pretty much the same way, except that it's your midtone and highlight. So, you'd go 80% white and 20% shadow, say (or whatever percentage you feel would make sense for the subject and its environment).
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Dec 30, 2019 23:38
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Thanks Zaodai
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Dec 30, 2019 23:39
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Filthy Hans posted:how many teeth did that gold shoota cost I'm here to kick rear end and chew bubblebum, and I'm all outta teefs
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Dec 30, 2019 23:42
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Xenomrph posted:I all around hate transfers and just choose not to use them unless I’ve got a gun to my head. I incorporated my lack of willingness to do transfers into my fluff 
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Dec 31, 2019 00:51
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Professor Shark posted:I incorporated my lack of willingness to do transfers into my fluff Now you're thinking 
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Dec 31, 2019 00:57
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I've been doing tiiks and other aquatic monsters in various tropical fish patterns. While I'm not happy with the shading on the belly at all, I'm pretty stoked with how this one turned out all the same. The fish:  The mini:  [ 
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Dec 31, 2019 04:36
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I painted more Marvel mandollies. Continuing with my theme of bad photography:   
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Dec 31, 2019 06:04
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Dienes posted:I've been doing tiiks and other aquatic monsters in various tropical fish patterns. While I'm not happy with the shading on the belly at all, I'm pretty stoked with how this one turned out all the same. Hey, nice! I painted up one of those fish dudes earlier this year:  It was part of a diorama contest.
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Dec 31, 2019 08:53
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youtube takedown because green stuff world say they own the word Colourshift and Chameleon. Note to self: Never buy anything from Green Stuff World. The blow back from this will far outweigh targeting one random youtube reviewer who got her entire channel demoniterized and a strike on her account. That has not yet been removed. Did they really think this through?
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Dec 31, 2019 11:18
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Comstar posted:youtube takedown because green stuff world say they own the word Colourshift and Chameleon. These are the same guys who had green stuff rollers with Nazi imagery. When this was pointed out to them they responded with "wow, we had no idea" and then continued selling them as if nothing had happened.
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Dec 31, 2019 11:58
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Geisladisk posted:These are the same guys who had green stuff rollers with Nazi imagery. When this was pointed out to them they responded with "wow, we had no idea" and then continued selling them as if nothing had happened. But the fascist in wargaming thread got closed a day too early for this! Also, I'd forgotten that happened, so double points for making me recall that disaster.
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Dec 31, 2019 13:01
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Sneaking it in so I can add them to the list of models painted this year, another batch of orks and two grots that got lost from when I was batch-painting the rest of their mob:   Inspired by richyp's speedpainting breakdown, I took a ton of WIP shots as well (I've honestly got even more than this if anyone wants a blow-by-blow batch painting guide, but this post is going to end up long enough already). Airbrush  - Prime (Vallejo black) - 1 hour - Basecoat flesh (VGA Dark Green for the orks, Goblin Green for the grots) and bases (VGA Barbarian Flesh). - Also tried airbrushing the orks' axes (VGA Gunmetal) but frankly it may have been a mistake. - 1 hour Didn't get photos at this stage, but imagine these without the brown basecoat done Basecoats  - VGA Charred Brown - 2hr - VGA Gunmetal - 2hr - 2 coats GW Ushabti followed by 1 coat VGA Bonewhite - 3hr - Vallejo extra opaque red - 30m - VGA Black - 2hr - Freehand on the grot guns - 30m for the two of them - General tidying up - 30m Intermission  - Stop to feed the crows - 30m as required Wash  Drown everything in GW Agrax Earthshade - 30m The grot flesh gets a custom wash I made a while back, I think it was Les Bursley's recipe. This is my favorite step because of the sudden jump in quality, and also because drowning everything in wash is fun. Glyph freehand    I tried out something new for the glyphs on the orks' backs this time around. I cut the shape out of some soft-cut stamping block and tried using it to at least put the basic outline on the models. Honestly, it worked a lot better on the first sample and then went downhill on the rest of them, but it was enough of an outline to make freehanding the details back in again later much easier than starting from scratch. Took about 2.5 hours, including cutting the stamp. Highlights and details   - Bases and some of the bone - drybrush GW Ushabti Bone and Terminatus Stone - 1hr - Flesh - VGA Goblin Green drybrush and hand highlights - 1hr - Brown - VGA Earth drybrush and hand edge highlights - 1hr - Metal: VGA Chainmail, drybrush and hand edge highlights - 1hr - Blacks: VGA Cold Gray, mostly just drybrushed - 30m - Reds: VGA Bloody Red, edge highlights - 30m - Details - eyes (mix of heavy red and bloody red), teeth (Bonewhite, washed with nuln oil on the grots to fill the gaps), second coat of Charred Brown on the base rims. - 1.5 hr - Remove endless cat fur and dust, gloss and matt varnish by airbrush - 1hr Total: about 23 hours for 17 orks and 2 grots
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Dec 31, 2019 14:22
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Here's all the stuff I finished in 2019 There are two of the unlockable classes on gloomhaven on the right side so dont look too close if you dont want to see: Here's the cultists:  And the squigs:  and the gloomhaven folks and a bunny  The squigs are a lot of fun to paint and were a really good excuse to try out the contrast paints. They were a perfect change of pace from painting a lot of GSC uniforms. The GSC ridgerunner was my first attempt at painting a vehicle and theres a lot I learned. The terrain in the back was really fun too. GW is really doing an amazing job with their kits and if I had unlimited space/money I would buy 10 more of these and create a giant mix of it all. I still have a couple small pipes and connectors from the mechanicus kit that are just primed but not touched up. I also think I should get more mechanicus floor and make a mold from it for weird sized bases. You can see on the bikers and mortar teams that I cut up spare mechanicus bases and used putty to make a broken/abandoned facility floor and while Im happy with the results its a little too obvious where the round edges are. My next project is working on the Orks my lovely TG Secret Santa Cotton Candidasis gifted me. I've got them basecoated and assembled and am looking forward to my next quiet weekend of painting. Thank you to everyone who has posted their 2019 work. Its really cool to see it all laid out and it makes me want to get working on the next batch of stuff. Happy painting everyone!
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Dec 31, 2019 16:33
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Finished a Fire Lizard guy today:   
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Dec 31, 2019 18:12
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I was secretly hoping the third picture would end up being a 40k Salamander, just for the bait and switch joke.
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Dec 31, 2019 18:17
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For some reason I had an urge to paint my steel legion again after not painting seriously for over a year. I was happy with how my old ones were painted but as soon as I picked up a new one to paint I felt like it was too basic. My old highlights were kind of hard to see unless under a desk light, and they were just on all raised bits of the coats. I decided to go a bit crazy with it and highlight as if the sun was directly above. I feel like it paid off. I also attempted non-metallic metal for the first time on the sword and the canteen, it's not the best but it stands out a bit more than the metallic paint i used on my normal infantry. I admit I'm not super happy with the front of the coat, I really didn't know what to do with it since it's mostly flat. I also built and painted my scout sentinel with steel legion guardsman inside. Really happy with how it turned out, this is my first vehicle in a long time.   
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Dec 31, 2019 19:06
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Geisladisk posted:These are the same guys who had green stuff rollers with Nazi imagery. When this was pointed out to them they responded with "wow, we had no idea" and then continued selling them as if nothing had happened. They eventually changed it but it took forever. LMAO at this video, issuing a take down and then asking if the channel would like to review some GSW paints instead of the vallejo ones in the video that got copyright hit
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Dec 31, 2019 19:39
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Here's the Vallejo statement about the copyright from a few weeks back. https://twitter.com/vallejocolors/status/1205446200276729856
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Dec 31, 2019 19:50
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Does anybody else make texture rollers? gently caress a bunch of GSW.
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Dec 31, 2019 19:57
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Woah I had no idea Vallejo was releasing colour shift paints, I should find a project to try those on. If only tzeentch daemons had more armour.
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Dec 31, 2019 20:03
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Speaking of Vallejo, if I was looking to pick up a big set of paints would this be a good start? I feel like I'm committed long-term to painting, so I'd kind of just like to spend a bunch upfront and have a good selection to work with for awhile rather than constantly buying 1 bottle here and there, though I'm sure that'll still happen too. If not, any other suggestions? Thanks!
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Dec 31, 2019 20:38
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Anno posted:Speaking of Vallejo, if I was looking to pick up a big set of paints would this be a good start? I feel like I'm committed long-term to painting, so I'd kind of just like to spend a bunch upfront and have a good selection to work with for awhile rather than constantly buying 1 bottle here and there, though I'm sure that'll still happen too. There may end up being a lot of colours in the box you don't use. I bought a similar VMC one years ago and probably used 1/4 of the colours in it. The smaller starter with the basic colours and a few hand picked bottles might work better depending on how you paint. I have hundreds of paints across brands now and I'm still buying new pots every opportunity. EDIT: Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Model-Napoleonic-French-British-1789-1815/dp/B07LGD14B8/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Vallejo+model+color&qid=1577821370&sr=8-2
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Dec 31, 2019 20:42
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Anno posted:Speaking of Vallejo, if I was looking to pick up a big set of paints would this be a good start? I feel like I'm committed long-term to painting, so I'd kind of just like to spend a bunch upfront and have a good selection to work with for awhile rather than constantly buying 1 bottle here and there, though I'm sure that'll still happen too. While they're neat for the case they come in and never worrying about needing a colour, you're almost guaranteed to have shades of colours you'll never end up using. If you can afford to go for that in one go then sure but I personally think it's not the best purchase versus picking up particular paints for a project and adding more as you need them.
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Dec 31, 2019 20:43
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richyp posted:There may end up being a lot of colours in the box you don't use. I bought a similar VMC one years ago and probably used 1/4 of the colours in it. The smaller starter with the basic colours and a few hand picked bottles might work better depending on how you paint. I have hundreds of paints across brands now and I'm still buying new pots every opportunity. ijyt posted:While they're neat for the case they come in and never worrying about needing a colour, you're almost guaranteed to have shades of colours you'll never end up using. If you can afford to go for that in one go then sure but I personally think it's not the best purchase versus picking up particular paints for a project and adding more as you need them. Thanks. I guess that does make sense starting with a basics set and adding from there. What are people's favorite places to order paints from? I'm looking to get away from a lot of GW paints and the local GW store is the only place I know of nearby that sells acrylics.
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Dec 31, 2019 20:51
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I agree with the above, you probably aren't going to use a 72 paint range; you would be better starting with something like a 10-20 color set either of basic colors, or themed for a specific army/project you're going to be working on. Then you can add to it based on what you really use. I don't know how many paints I actually have, but I have a ton of different ones in neutral and natural tones because I use them in almost every project, and some colors I only have a couple specific tones that I use for an army or range. Unless you're planning to paint particularly expansively, you'd probably be better served starting with a smaller or focused set. I have been using a lot of Reaper paints because I really like their triad sets, and I usually just order anything I want directly from them.
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Dec 31, 2019 21:04
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