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clockworkjoe posted:So is this one okay? https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Rt-Ac66u-Router-Delivers-802-11Ac/dp/B01N08LPPP The "RT-AC66U B1" (not to be confused with the RT-AC66U) will work fine with Merlin. You'd download the RT-AC68U firmware from the previously-linked list. Found a better list of supported models, as well: https://www.asuswrt-merlin.net/about
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Jan 2, 2020 23:36
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CrazyLittle posted:Though if you don't mind having to dick around with resetting the modem occasionally, you'll get by a lot cheaper with a Netgear LB1120 LTE modem. If it's a hangar, is this in continuous use? Put the modem and router on a switch-controlled outlet. Flip it on when there, flip it off when you leave. Or just leave it on and powercycle it every time it gives you trouble.
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Jan 2, 2020 23:37
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:That's the one I have and it's okay enough for my usage. There's no longer Merlin firmware for it, but Asus just released a new stock firmware for it in November. Also, if you do want to try Merlin on it someday, john9527's fork of Merlin supports that model. astral posted:The "RT-AC66U B1" (not to be confused with the RT-AC66U) will work fine with Merlin. You'd download the RT-AC68U firmware from the previously-linked list. uh so is there merlin firmware for this or not? I just want a router that I can eventually install the astrill applet.
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Jan 3, 2020 01:53
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Apologies, I believe I have the non-B1 version.
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Jan 3, 2020 02:32
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Hello guys, I am recently having trouble with my WiFi network in my house. I have a cheesy old Linksys as my router located in my second floor, with a Netgear powerline connecting a TP-Link as an AP in my first floor. Both have the same SSID name, however, Linksys is using channel 9 and TP-Link is using channel 3. Both 2.4 GHz. I thought wireless devices were "smart" enough to connect to the best connection by channel, but it doesn't seem the case. I just did a test with my Nintendo Switch, I re-enabled the WiFi twice standing besides my router but for some reason it prefers to connect to my TP-Link, which is on the first floor. This also happens with my smartphone. What gives? Should I have different SSID names to prevent this issue? (Although it sucks that I would have to manually switch between WiFi from now on with my devices.) I was also considering buying TP-Link Deco M4 to fix this issue, but not sure if I should pay that much for this trouble.
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Jan 3, 2020 17:04
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Tirux posted:Hello guys, Don't use channels 3 or 9. Use 1, 6, or 11, with each device being on a different channel. Also, how long a device hangs on to a particular AP's signal when there's a stronger signal available is largely dependent on the device. Do both APs have the same capabilities? (IE: Both are wireless N and one isn't G, etc).
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Jan 3, 2020 17:23
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Don't use channels 3 or 9. Use 1, 6, or 11, with each device being on a different channel. Thanks for the tip, I will change channels to 1 and 11 respectively. Both are Wireless N, with channel width set to auto, and using network mode 11bgn mixed.
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Jan 3, 2020 17:54
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Tirux posted:Thanks for the tip, I will change channels to 1 and 11 respectively. Set the channel width the same on both, not to auto.
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Jan 3, 2020 18:09
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I found a setting in my Asus's advanced setting that kicks off devices if they get below a certain strength, which encourages them to connect to another signal, but haven't tried it. I'm sharing between the Asus and a UniFi AP.
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Jan 3, 2020 18:10
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Tirux posted:Thanks for the tip, I will change channels to 1 and 11 respectively. If you don't have any B or G devices set it to N-only. If you do have any B devices, throw them away.  (I realize that old Wii's or whatever only had B, which was pretty silly of them at the time.)
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Jan 3, 2020 18:21
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Set the channel width the same on both, not to auto. Router only has 20MHz option, and TP-Link 20/40MHz. Guess both will use 20MHz. I really think this might be time to buy a new router, mine is from 2016...
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Jan 3, 2020 18:28
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Tirux posted:Router only has 20MHz option, and TP-Link 20/40MHz. Guess both will use 20MHz. Or get a couple Ubiquiti APs, they can help client handoff with the controller.
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Jan 3, 2020 18:34
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Or get a couple Ubiquiti APs, they can help client handoff with the controller. Quite expensive compared to TP-Link Deco M4, but will check it out. Thanks for the help!
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Jan 3, 2020 18:50
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Don't use channels 3 or 9 Just to be sure, that's not general advice is it? I've got a single SSID, on one of those as it's ostensibly the least congested area of the spectrum.
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Jan 3, 2020 18:51
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Heners_UK posted:Just to be sure, that's not general advice is it? I've got a single SSID, on one of those as it's ostensibly the least congested area of the spectrum. 2.4 GHz Wifi uses the channel its on and then overlaps the bands two channels in each direction (at 22MHz). So channel 1 will use from "-1" to 3, channel 6 uses 4 to 8, and 11 uses 9 to 13. Putting an AP in those intermediate channels may look like its in the clearest space on the spectrum but it's actually causing and getting twice the interference from any surrounding devices that are on the proper channels. You should definitely switch to the least congested channel of the three, you can check with an app like Wifi Analyzer.
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Jan 3, 2020 19:10
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Heners_UK posted:Just to be sure, that's not general advice is it? I've got a single SSID, on one of those as it's ostensibly the least congested area of the spectrum. It is. Basically they never should have put in support for anything other than 1/6/12 in modern wifi firmwares but we all know how well that goes. Pick one and go with it, but seriously consider getting up to AC, you likely have very few devices which actually need old B/G crap. If they're IoT garbage consider throwing them away ( )or using a dedicated SSID just for them and letting your nicer stuff have uncongested space.
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Jan 3, 2020 19:41
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Changed. Directly acted upon the advice of this thread. Just to be sure, there's no gotchas for 5ghz? Love it, had it for year,s but not fully understanding it did throw me off here. H110Hawk posted:Pick one and go with it, but seriously consider getting up to AC, you likely have very few devices which actually need old B/G crap. If they're IoT garbage consider throwing them away ( Done by way of avoiding IoT crap on WiFi (generally I use Z Wave). I think I disabled 802.11b on the router (R7000 on Netgear FW) some time ago. EDIT: poo poo, I didn't because I cannot find a setting where I could... Yes I"m thinking of getting something better router wise. Rooted Vegetable fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Jan 3, 2020 |
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Jan 3, 2020 19:45
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Heners_UK posted:Changed. Directly acted upon the advice of this thread.  Changed channels no IoT garbage See if you can turn off G! (And yeah, as I recall 5GHz there's no trivial pitfalls.) (Careful if you have a Kindle or Chromecast or similar, I RMA'd one because it was G-Only and I jumped to N. Oops.)
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Jan 3, 2020 19:55
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the good thing about game consoles that only support B/G is that all their official online services were shuttered years ago, so there's no reason to go online anyway
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Jan 4, 2020 00:14
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Lutha Mahtin posted:the good thing about game consoles that only support B/G is that all their official online services were shuttered years ago, so there's no reason to go online anyway The Nintendo New 2DS was just released 2 years ago and still only supports B/G and still has an active store and online mode unfortunately.
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Jan 4, 2020 02:55
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never change, nintendo 
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Jan 4, 2020 03:28
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I'm about to move into a big, multi story house. What are the go-to WiFI mesh solutions?
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Jan 6, 2020 01:31
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mango sentinel posted:I'm about to move into a big, multi story house. Do you already have cables run to most rooms? If not, before moving in is usually a great time to get it done.
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Jan 6, 2020 01:44
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mango sentinel posted:I'm about to move into a big, multi story house. What was your thought process that led you to the conclusion that wifi mesh is the only/best solution for your new house?
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Jan 7, 2020 01:18
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Holy gently caress I wasted a ton of time coverting a raspberry pi to an LTE router
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Jan 7, 2020 01:52
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Lutha Mahtin posted:What was your thought process that led you to the conclusion that wifi mesh is the only/best solution for your new house? And how big are we talking here? Mine is 3200 sq ft, 2 story+basement and I have my UAP-AC-PRO mounted in the exact center of the first floor in a closet. I get perfect signal in every corner of the house. I want to add a second AP for the hell of it but I honestly don’t need to.
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Jan 7, 2020 02:34
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New houses should never have mesh anything. That is a last case resort type thing.
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Jan 7, 2020 03:01
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Goodpancakes posted:Holy gently caress I wasted a ton of time coverting a raspberry pi to an LTE router If it's running on an SD card, I hope you have a couple of backups.
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Jan 7, 2020 04:14
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I have our AC-PRO mounted at the center of the structure, second story of a 1800sqft house. Signal is strong everywhere, and I can still get a fair signal across the street at the mailbox. Mesh should be a last resort if you absolutely can't mount your AP somewhat centrally.
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Jan 7, 2020 04:49
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My nano HD yields way more signal than I expected and I have plaster walls you can stick a magnet to pretty much anywhere. I like to confuse people with it.
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Jan 7, 2020 05:11
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Alright, I'm having some issues with a new wifi router not having a good signal strength. The annoying thing is it's buried in the basement with no real way to move it upstairs at the moment. I'm debating getting a range extender to help alleviate this issue. Is this a good one, and what would optimal placement be?
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Jan 7, 2020 05:22
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iospace posted:Alright, I'm having some issues with a new wifi router not having a good signal strength. The annoying thing is it's buried in the basement with no real way to move it upstairs at the moment. I'm debating getting a range extender to help alleviate this issue. Is this a good one, and what would optimal placement be? Straight range extenders are generally a terrible idea. I'd honestly recommend powerline to a second access point over doing a mesh extender.
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Jan 7, 2020 06:03
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Make sure you use CAT5E/CAT6 if you’ll be doing any Ethernet wiring to sorta future proof. I’ve been having a (recent) problem with multiple APs sharing an SSID: my device doesn’t automatically pick the AP with the strongest signal. Is this a function of router hardware/software or am I doing something wrong, and should’ve just picked up a Google Wi-Fi 3-pack or whatever.
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Jan 7, 2020 06:23
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Most of the time it is completely up to the client how it deals with multiple APs. Some are better than others.
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Jan 7, 2020 06:34
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astral posted:If it's running on an SD card, I hope you have a couple of backups. Is this from too many read write cycles?
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Jan 7, 2020 07:06
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Buff Hardback posted:Straight range extenders are generally a terrible idea. I'd honestly recommend powerline to a second access point over doing a mesh extender. Alright, dug up an old wi-fi router (bandaid until I can get a proper AP), looked up a tutorial, and do I have to set that router's SSID and pass as the one on the new one, or should it pick up on that automatically? E: figured it out. Gonna get a proper AP later but for now the bandaid suffices. iospace fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Jan 7, 2020 |
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Jan 7, 2020 15:51
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Lutha Mahtin posted:What was your thought process that led you to the conclusion that wifi mesh is the only/best solution for your new house? Got suggested by friends. It's 3000 sq ft, an awkward layout, and with no cable outlet in a central area. Running cat5 isn't a viable option. I won't have internet there until next month so I can't assess how much coverage just a router gives me just yet.
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Jan 7, 2020 17:18
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mango sentinel posted:Got suggested by friends. It's 3000 sq ft, an awkward layout, and with no cable outlet in a central area. Running cat5 isn't a viable option. I won't have internet there until next month so I can't assess how much coverage just a router gives me just yet. I also live in a >2700 sqft, 19 foot wide house. It's rough.
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Jan 7, 2020 17:22
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If you are going to go mesh, try to make sure that you find a product that has a dedicated wireless band for communicating between the access points. These are usually labeled as Tri-Band. I picked up a Dlink Covr system on sale a few weeks ago, and its working well in my house, which sounds like it has a similar layout to yours. Eero Pro also has a dedicated wireless backhaul as well.
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Jan 7, 2020 17:32
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mango sentinel posted:Got suggested by friends. It's 3000 sq ft, an awkward layout, and with no cable outlet in a central area. Running cat5 isn't a viable option. I won't have internet there until next month so I can't assess how much coverage just a router gives me just yet. A family member uses the Eero and they work for their basic needs. They're not power users or anything. I'm a big fan of trying to hardwire a connection though. If you can get the cable or telco to run a line for 100 bucks for you, that's probably worth it as well. Running cabling yourself isn't too hard in some circumstances. If you can find an interior wall and have a basement without a finished ceiling it's super easy.
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Jan 7, 2020 17:37
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