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R0ckfish posted:After about a billion years of waiting for water effects to cure, a carnifex is done! Y'know, I don't think I'd ever play a game with that one - I'd just have it sitting on a mantelpiece, looking stupidly AWESOME! 
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Jan 9, 2020 13:28
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I was thinking to myself, "I think that base could use more bones," but I guess Nids just eat the bones. Bones wouldn't make sense from a lore perspective.
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Jan 9, 2020 14:40
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:So I'm looking to get back into painting minis (years and year ago I got into painting LOTR minis) with a particular interesting painting Gloomhaven minis. I'm still doing research and looking at tutorials, but what do you all think of this kit? I picked this kit up maybe a week ago as my first foray into mini painting, so take my opinion with a grain of salt because I don't have much frame of reference here. That being said, I'd probably at least grab some better brushes than come in the box because they seem kind of meh even with my limited knowledge. Otherwise it seems pretty good and is fairly paint-by-the-book if you just wanted to brush up on basic skills. For my dollar, the 3 minis (though the skeleton is kind of tiny and unimpressive) and the paints are worth it alone. I think the value probably only goes up if you grab the second box and end up with a pretty decent set of paints to work with.
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Jan 9, 2020 14:55
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im pooping! posted:I was thinking to myself, "I think that base could use more bones," but I guess Nids just eat the bones. Bones wouldn't make sense from a lore perspective. The Cawl book mentions that decades after an invasion the tyranids just leave all the inorganic polymers lying where they are, so for space marines it means a lot of empty suits of armor lying exactly where they fell but the helmets removed.
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Jan 9, 2020 15:24
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What's a solid paint set that's cheaper in the long run than buying a bunch of paints? I'm currently looking at this Army Painter set for $91
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Jan 9, 2020 18:09
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Verisimilidude posted:What's a solid paint set that's cheaper in the long run than buying a bunch of paints? I'm currently looking at this Army Painter set for $91 There's not really any such thing. You're going to end up buying stuff you don't need - you're paying for the convenience of not having to regularly go out and buy more paint when you realize you'll need a specific shade.
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Jan 9, 2020 18:14
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I finally gave the vallejo paints a try last night, and I feel like I am doing something wrong. They are coming out of the bottle very watery. Maybe I am just too use to Citadel paints, which come out extremely thick in comparison, with only a handful of exceptions for their base paints. I made sure to shake my vallejo bottles really well too.
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Jan 9, 2020 18:33
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Verisimilidude posted:What's a solid paint set that's cheaper in the long run than buying a bunch of paints? I'm currently looking at this Army Painter set for $91 I started with that set and honestly wish I hadn't. Some of the paints are fine but most are annoying to apply, have terrible coverage, go on way too shiny, or some combination of those problems. The applicators suck and lend themselves to clogging. If I could give my past self advice, it would be to pick a model, come up with a simple color scheme, and just buy Citadel/Vallejo pots as needed (along with staples like white, black, and a wash or two).
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Jan 9, 2020 18:41
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I said come in! posted:I finally gave the vallejo paints a try last night, and I feel like I am doing something wrong. They are coming out of the bottle very watery. Maybe I am just too use to Citadel paints, which come out extremely thick in comparison, with only a handful of exceptions for their base paints. I made sure to shake my vallejo bottles really well too. Welcome to vallejo, hope you have strong arms because you gotta shake that poo poo hard
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Jan 9, 2020 18:44
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Phi230 posted:Welcome to vallejo, hope you have strong arms because you gotta shake that poo poo hard It's time to get swole.
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Jan 9, 2020 18:47
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I said come in! posted:It's time to get swole. You not only have to shake them very well but a good tip is to roll the bottles around like a rolling pin. If you want, army painter sells ball bearings that are safe for your paint to work as agitators
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Jan 9, 2020 18:50
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I'm lazy and have been trying to find a decently priced lab surplus vortex mixer because I hate shaking paints.
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Jan 9, 2020 18:50
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ShallNoiseUpon posted:I'm lazy and have been trying to find a decently priced lab surplus vortex mixer because I hate shaking paints. Keep looking, it’s a life changer.
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Jan 9, 2020 19:05
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R0ckfish posted:After about a billion years of waiting for water effects to cure, a carnifex is done!
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Jan 9, 2020 19:07
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Sounds like those beginner reaper kits might be the way to go. I don't think either of those kits come with washes, are there any basic wash/wash kits I should look for?
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Jan 9, 2020 19:21
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The Army Painter quickshade set gives you a good selection. The 'inks' aren't full strength like say Scale75's kit, but they're good for glazing which is probably more convenient for novice use anyways.
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Jan 9, 2020 19:27
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Army Painter Dark Tone/Citadel Nuln Oil Army Painter Strong Tone/Citadel Agrax Earthshade Those two will be like 90% of the washes you'll use.
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Jan 9, 2020 19:27
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FYI the reaper kit is how I got started when I moved away from craft paint (this is like 15 years ago now at least). This was before anyone made washes that I am aware of so you just made your own, and its still a good skill to have and not hard. I picked up what is today's equivalent of the master core colors set at Gen Con and have just replaced the colors used most as needed. All of those paints are still good, even the ones I don't use very often and its been well over 10 years. I love dropper bottles.
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Jan 9, 2020 19:28
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yeah, im Vallejo til death but I still use nuln oil, agrax, and seraphim for the majority of my washes.
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Jan 9, 2020 19:38
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3 More Kurnoth Hunters with Greatbows added  Need to buy 6 more for the sword unit, 10 more dryads and another wood (the 3 normal trees) to get the Sylvaneth up to 2000pts. Here's a group shot with the Elf substitutes in place. 
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Jan 9, 2020 21:42
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Jan 9, 2020 22:33
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Your style works really well on those models dude, they look so good together.
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Jan 9, 2020 23:30
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ShallNoiseUpon posted:I'm lazy and have been trying to find a decently priced lab surplus vortex mixer because I hate shaking paints. Time to find a cheap clamp and a jigsaw. https://steemit.com/hobby/@sanctus/ljti2xxy
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Jan 9, 2020 23:51
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ShallNoiseUpon posted:I picked this kit up maybe a week ago as my first foray into mini painting, so take my opinion with a grain of salt because I don't have much frame of reference here. That being said, I'd probably at least grab some better brushes than come in the box because they seem kind of meh even with my limited knowledge. Otherwise it seems pretty good and is fairly paint-by-the-book if you just wanted to brush up on basic skills. For my dollar, the 3 minis (though the skeleton is kind of tiny and unimpressive) and the paints are worth it alone. I think the value probably only goes up if you grab the second box and end up with a pretty decent set of paints to work with. Nah. Use the brushes. They suck, but you're pretty likely to gently caress up your first set of brushes. Get used to painting with the lovely brushes, and then get the good brushes once you're more used to painting.
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Jan 10, 2020 02:19
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 My forest goblins keep expanding, and I'm starting to fear that basing might be more fun than painting. It's a nice break from painting spiders.
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Jan 10, 2020 04:20
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Scarab Occult Sorcerer done. Now to paint the rest of the squad. And then the 30 rubrics in my queue. album: https://imgur.com/gallery/t12UeOy
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Jan 10, 2020 04:38
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Two Headed Calf posted:Scarab Occult Sorcerer done. Now to paint the rest of the squad. And then the 30 rubrics in my queue. That's an interesting blue color for TSons. And wow that is a really interesting shade of magenta! Works together pretty well. I've got some TSons that are primed in gold and I'm gonna try painting the armor plates using Turbo Dork Da Ba De for a metallic light blue... but I gotta finish my ork team first. (Almost there!)
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Jan 10, 2020 07:20
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This thread needs more  Battletech 
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Jan 10, 2020 10:36
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Endman posted:This thread needs more That guy is dope as hell. I look on reddit and most people do not shade or highlight battlemech's at all and it hurts my soul.
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Jan 10, 2020 14:01
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Two Headed Calf posted:Scarab Occult Sorcerer done. Now to paint the rest of the squad. And then the 30 rubrics in my queue. Looks good. I had a very fruitful xmas and was given the Tsons start collecting box, another box of rubrics, and a box of exalted sorcerers. If I buy a box of the scrab occult, I'll have more than enough for anything kill team. My FLGS didn't have thousand sons blue, but I did get kantor blue, so I'll either use those or the army painter ultrimarine blue I have.
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Jan 10, 2020 14:19
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Funzo posted:Time to find a cheap clamp and a jigsaw. This is awesome. The craftiness of people in this hobby will never cease to amaze me.
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Jan 10, 2020 15:08
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Funzo posted:Time to find a cheap clamp and a jigsaw. I have an old B&D jigsaw whose chuck disintegrated that I kept around for no real reason. I tested this with a small clamp last night and the fit is perfect.  I need to figure out a way to secure it, but holy hell. Game changer.
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Jan 10, 2020 15:31
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Ben Nerevarine posted:I have an old B&D jigsaw whose chuck disintegrated that I kept around for no real reason. I tested this with a small clamp last night and the fit is perfect. Something like this is probably more secure if you have access to a 3D printer. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3322547
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Jan 10, 2020 15:54
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Ben Nerevarine posted:I have an old B&D jigsaw whose chuck disintegrated that I kept around for no real reason. I tested this with a small clamp last night and the fit is perfect. You probably want to turn the pot 90 degrees so it's parallel to the shaking direction too, right? Wouldn't want the cap to come loose while it's dancing.
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Jan 10, 2020 16:04
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Cross-quoting this one from the Scale Modeling thread:Ensign Expendable posted:Badger 's 56th birthday special is up http://www.badgerairbrush.com/H56B_guidelines_rules.asp
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Jan 10, 2020 16:05
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nesbit37 posted:Something like this is probably more secure if you have access to a 3D printer. I don't have a 3D printer but I'll keep this in mind as an option down the road. Unfortunately this jigsaw can't hold blades anymore because the chuck literally fell apart in my hands a couple years ago. Inspector_666 posted:You probably want to turn the pot 90 degrees so it's parallel to the shaking direction too, right? Wouldn't want the cap to come loose while it's dancing. Oh definitely, this was mostly a test fit of the clamp, I didn't think about the pot too hard. The clamp arm just slides in (albeit snugly), it needs something more to secure it. I'll probably wrap some tape around the pot and take a couple other measures to make sure I'm not chucking paint around my basement at 20 MPH.
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Jan 10, 2020 16:27
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Ben Nerevarine posted:I'll probably wrap some tape around the pot and take a couple other measures to make sure I'm not chucking paint around my basement at 20 MPH. OTOH, you could embrace the hi-velocity paint experience and really up your hobby throughput...
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Jan 10, 2020 16:38
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Inspector_666 posted:OTOH, you could embrace the hi-velocity paint experience and really up your hobby throughput... 
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Jan 10, 2020 16:40
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I have a really loving dumb painting question that I should probably already know the answer to but whatever. Shade paints. When should I apply them? Over the past week or so I've done it both ways - the way the box/instructions seem to indicate they should be applied after the base coat and before the layer paints, but I've also tried doing it after I've layered and it does a good job of "weathering" paints... Is there a right/wrong way or is it just whatever looks good to you?
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Jan 10, 2020 18:23
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EvilHawk posted:I have a really loving dumb painting question that I should probably already know the answer to but whatever. There is no wrong way, and you can even do multiple shade steps if you wanted. The classic pipeline is: Prime -> Basecoat -> Shade -> Brighten/Layer -> Edge Highlight / Detail But like, you could layer and then shade, sure, yeah. At that point its just a matter of what color you have before you add the shade, so like, in theory you could get a base paint closer to the layer color and then it'd be there without having to layer so you can go straight to the shade. You can also do like a real easy version of blending by just selectively layering or shading different parts of a model, so you end up with a huge gradient even though you're only using like 1 or 2 actual pigment shades. Imagine I have Red, and a Dark Red shade. If I paint the model in Red say layer 1, then I could shade it and we end up with darkness level 2. Then I brighten up only half of that, so part is level 1 and part is level 2. Then shade the whole thing again. Now its part level 3 and part level 2. Then I could brighten up a smaller part, so now there's level 1, then level 2, then level 3. You could keep repeating this process with layers and shades. But at a certain point you're spending a toooooon of time on those layers and could do it faster if you actually used different paint shades to begin with, and just did proper blending.
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Jan 10, 2020 18:29
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