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Why might my monitor occasionally show 'no signal' at startup? It's happening after I shut down the computer and let it sit for a while (e.g. overnight). On startup, I'll see the startup messages but then the screen will show 'no signal' when Windows should be starting. Restarting the computer at that point solves the problem. New build, B450 Tomahawk Max + AMD Ryzen 3700x + GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER, Windows 10 installed on an SSD. Haven't noticed any performance issues otherwise. Only thing I' ve changed from stock is raising the minimum CPU fan speed so that it would spool up and down less.
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Jan 12, 2020 20:12
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What monitor do you have ? Usually when I hear about that it's because the monitor has a "deep sleep" mode enabled in the monitor OSD
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Jan 12, 2020 20:31
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I'm looking for a couple of modest upgrades to my current motherboard to play games at 1080P 60 FPS in 2020-2021 and maybe upgrade to a 1440P freesync monitor at some point. I'm particularly thinking about Apex Legends and Cyberpunk 2077 as the game I want to play. My current basic set-up Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2 GHz Quad-Core Processor GPU: Gigabyte Radeon RX VEGA 64 8 GB Video Card I've was watching a digital foundry video and they mentioned the VEGA 64 cards are on clearance right now. They are selling one on NewEgg for $270. Would this be a good budget video card upgrade? According to PC PART PICKER it is compatible with my motherboard. Any recommendation on a new CPU?
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Jan 12, 2020 21:09
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Can I get a recommendation on a case? I'm sure these needs are fairly standard these days but it's been a while. I tried looking through the lists people are posting and I guess I'm just not sure. Here's a description:
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Jan 12, 2020 21:35
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Presenting Nipples posted:GPU: Gigabyte Radeon RX VEGA 64 8 GB Video Card So since you already say Vega 64 for your GPU, I take it you already have one? Two cards in SLI is crap these days. Plus 2 vega cards is like, do you have at least a 750 watt power supply and do you have enough case fans to handle heat like the surface of the sun? No, a second Vega card is throwing good money after bad. Also, $270 is not much less than a new 5700 so I'm not seeing that as a bargain. Digital foundry is UK so maybe they're looking at some euro prices or something. Presenting Nipples posted:CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2 GHz Quad-Core Processor Upgrading intel CPUs is difficult without upgrading the mobo. Used i7-6700Ks still go for over $200 on ebay, anything less than an i7 is a bad use of money because 4c/4threads is becoming a constraint in current games. So if you can find an i7 6XXXX for cheap it's worth it but otherwise it's like, a 1600AF is a better buy new than most skylakes are used. Man, an i5 skylake and a vega is the poopoo platter of unfortunate components that have not aged well. Ow. I feel for you dude, but I'd just look at holding out for a total rebuild.
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Jan 12, 2020 21:43
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Klyith posted:So since you already say Vega 64 for your GPU, I take it you already have one? Two cards in SLI is crap these days. Plus 2 vega cards is like, do you have at least a 750 watt power supply and do you have enough case fans to handle heat like the surface of the sun? No, a second Vega card is throwing good money after bad. I currently have an R9 380X, apologies for the error! I actually tried to SLI for cheap, but it sucked so I gave one to a friend. Would a 5700 be a better upgrade than a Vega?
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Jan 12, 2020 21:48
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Statutory Ape posted:What monitor do you have ? Usually when I hear about that it's because the monitor has a "deep sleep" mode enabled in the monitor OSD HP 27bw I also ported my Windows license from my old Dell laptop so I don't know if that matters.
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Jan 12, 2020 21:50
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Stickman posted:It's kind of tough to tell what will or won't work without specific experience, but I suspect most modern cases won't have the 300r's lip and will work. One way to be absolutely sure is to troll the internet for completed builds using the case you're considering: PCPartpicker has a bunch and you can search the list for specific cases or manufacturers. I think I'll go with the Meshify C. I was considering the H510, though I found this thread that mentions it has similar issues. However it seems that removing the middle standoff solves that problem so it'd be fine either way.
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Jan 12, 2020 22:34
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Presenting Nipples posted:I currently have an R9 380X, apologies for the error! I actually tried to SLI for cheap, but it sucked so I gave one to a friend. Would a 5700 be a better upgrade than a Vega? 1000x times yes. If your GPU budget is more in the mid-$200 range, the 5600XT will be out next month, and 2060 cards are dropping in price to compete.
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Jan 12, 2020 22:36
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Party Boat posted:To back this up - I used the 3600 stock cooler for the last six months in my ancient Cooler Master Silencio case, which also prioritises noise reduction over thermals. I'd describe it as "adequate". Noise-wise it was fine, but it is very basic - a tiny heat sink with a fan on top that pushes the hot air away from the CPU and says to the rest of the PC "this is your problem now". From memory I think the 3600 generally idled at 40-50C for me, and I never ran into overheating problems (living in the UK so YMMV). Thanks for this, this is really helpful feedback. I'm currently using a CM 212 aftermarket cooler in an old Corsair Graphite case (the old "Stormtrooper" design), which has fairly good airflow, but since the move my tower has gone from sitting in a large room directly under a window to sitting in a smaller room away from the window, which is impacting the heat management a bit. I'm not so fussed by noise, so I might take your advice (and Demostrs) and go for a third party cooler with a case designed around airflow (the Fractal Design Meshify C has a similar aesthetic to my current case so I'd be more than happy to go with that. Living in Aus (particularly in the summer) heat management becomes more pressing, so better to be safe than sorry.
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Jan 13, 2020 00:06
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crestfallen posted:Can I get a recommendation on a case? I'm sure these needs are fairly standard these days but it's been a while. I tried looking through the lists people are posting and I guess I'm just not sure. Here's a description: Most of the $70-$120 mid-tower cases will fill these requirements so take a look at some of these and see if any jump out at you. -Phanteks P400a (non digital), recently named Gamers Nexus' best case of 2019. -Phanteks Enthoo Pro M, a bit pricier than the P400a but very modular so you can set it up however you want it. -Fractal Meshify C, the usual case recommendation in this thread. -Cooler Master H500, I just built my new gaming rig in this and it's great (if you can get it for $100). -Lian Li O-11 Dynamic/Air, tons of space. Get the Dynamic if you are going to watercool, the Air if you're not. -NZXT H510, pretty much the definition of "Standard Case" in the current lineup of modern cases. In general look for cases with mesh front panels, solid front panels kill airflow. Gamers Nexus has good case reviews on their website and their YouTube that are handy if you see a case you like. Scruff McGruff fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Jan 13, 2020 |
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Jan 13, 2020 00:34
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That is an awesome post. Thank you so much!
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Jan 13, 2020 00:56
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Scruff McGruff posted:[excellent case list] One thing to keep in mind with o11 Air or Dynamic is that they have slightly less cpu cooler clearance than most cases in the class (max 155mm), so they won't fit a lot of standard top-end cooler options like the Noctua d15(s), u14s, u12s/a, or the Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4. They will fit the Scythe Mugen 5 rev.B, though, and that's our standard high-end cooler recommendation for any build outside of a heavily overclocked 9900k anyway. It's usually $30+ cheaper than the top-end Noctua/Be Quiet! coolers and more than sufficient for most uses. Still excellent cases, just don't buy a cooler that doesn't fit! E: They're also an excellent choice if you need a short case - they place the psu in second chamber to the right of the motherboard so they're only slightly taller that the ATX motherboard alone. Most cases put the psu at the bottom or top, so they're at least as tall as a PSU + motherboard. EE: Whoops, missed the beginning of the conversation  Probably worth a reminder, though...
Stickman fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Jan 13, 2020 |
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Jan 13, 2020 01:12
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Jaded Burnout posted:My thinking here was Alright, I would say getting an M2 NVMe + SATA SSD would be a good idea. There is a performance impact, but getting the M2 version of the MX500 means you're still getting a SATA drive, just in a different form factor. You could grab this, which actually is an NVMe drive (just, also called a WD Blue drive >.>) https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/BhmFf7/western-digital-blue-sn550-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds100t2b0c The case also is on the smaller end of ATX cases. Like Kalman and Stickman said, though, that along with how much space is behind the motherboard means lower compatibility with air coolers; the Mugen 5 barely fits in that thing. A lot of people just use AIOs in it because of that. Demostrs fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Jan 13, 2020 |
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Jan 13, 2020 01:14
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After having a chat with the SO and thinking about my tax return/bonus/overtime money I'm getting, I thought I'd spec out a ballpark build. I'm basically looking for good performance at 1440p for modern games with the ability to upgrade the RAM in about a year and the GPU in another 2-3 years. She is going to keep the current PC  . Thoughts on the below? I'd likely get the 2060 KO when it releases. The RAM is from my current machine, saving a bit of money. I might go down to a 1 TB SDD to save a bit more cash (easy upgrade). Any major pitfalls? Do I need a CPU cooler? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($324.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($79.98 @ Amazon) Storage: Intel 660p Series 2.048 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($229.99 @ B&H) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB OC Video Card ($289.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Thermaltake Smart Pro RGB 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.98 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($109.99 @ Newegg) Monitor: LG 27GL83A-B 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor ($379.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1709.88 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-12 19:33 EST-0500
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Jan 13, 2020 01:40
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Presenting Nipples posted:After having a chat with the SO and thinking about my tax return/bonus/overtime money I'm getting, I thought I'd spec out a ballpark build. I'm basically looking for good performance at 1440p for modern games with the ability to upgrade the RAM in about a year and the GPU in another 2-3 years. She is going to keep the current PC Any particular reason for the 3700x? The 3600 is more than adequate for most in a gaming machine for the next year or two at least. Ryzen chips come with a stock cooler, and the included cooler on a 3600 is good enough, if a bit noisy. Only upgrade if it's really bugging you. Also, snag a windows key from SA mart and save $100 there to put elsewhere. Looks good to me otherwise.
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Jan 13, 2020 02:21
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Stickman posted:So going by current prices, that's a $500 system when you add in 16GB of ram. If you're raiding or doing other activities with a lot of players, WoW is pretty CPU-bound - I'd seriously consider upgrading to a 2600 (or an AF version of the 1600, if you can find them in stock for the $80 msrp). There's also a lot of corners being cut - if you're already around $500 I'd consider something like this (you can take or leave individual modifications): So I ended up going with this build but got the G.Skill RAM and a different case (which I probably should’ve read the reviews on before hand as it seems to be “cramped”) but I think I have a good starting point. Will update when I get everything set up. Thanks for everything.
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Jan 13, 2020 04:08
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What temp sensors should I run my case fans (currently 2x120mm at the front as intake, 1x120mm at the top above the CPU and 1x120mm at the rear) off? I'm guessing not the CPU one. Also if I have enough space at the top of the case for 2 120mm fans, can I run the front one as an intake and the back one as an exhaust or does that just mess with the airflow?
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Jan 13, 2020 04:46
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Ragingsheep posted:What temp sensors should I run my case fans (currently 2x120mm at the front as intake, 1x120mm at the top above the CPU and 1x120mm at the rear) off? I'm guessing not the CPU one. Depends on what sensors your mobo has, where they are, and circumstances. Try setting the fans on fixed low speed and running some various loads, while looking at hwinfo64 or whatever other temperature software you like. If you see a mobo / chipset / "system" temperature that seems to vary in useful ways, tie fans to that. But it's possible that your non-CPU sensors won't be very responsive even when everything else is getting quite hot. Mine is like that. So personally I have 1 system fan tied to CPU with the maximum step up time so it spins up gradually. And 2 quiet system fans are tied to system temp that aren't really on a curve, just switch between silent and full speed when system temp changes by like 3 degrees. Airflow in PC cases is always turbulent, idealized notions of air moving through in smooth lines don't happen. What you don't want is dead pockets. So the downside with fans at the top of the case (in whatever orientation) is that they tend to leave dead air down below the GPU. So keeping 1 fan in the front pushing air towards the GPU is a good idea. Aside from that, it probably depends on what's around the PC. If it's under a table, 2 fans going in/out will just recirculate the same warmish air. If it's on your desk, probably not a problem.
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Jan 13, 2020 05:28
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Klyith posted:Depends on what sensors your mobo has, where they are, and circumstances. Try setting the fans on fixed low speed and running some various loads, while looking at hwinfo64 or whatever other temperature software you like. If you see a mobo / chipset / "system" temperature that seems to vary in useful ways, tie fans to that. I've got an x570 Aorus Elite. Possible sensors are CPU, GPU, System 1 and System 2, VRM and PCH.
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Jan 13, 2020 06:05
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If anyone would like to pre-order one of the new 2060 cards while they're on sale ($280 for the basic KO edition :o): https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16814487488 https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16814487486 e: sold out Demostrs fucked around with this message at 10:02 on Jan 13, 2020 |
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Jan 13, 2020 07:30
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Hi, with Windows 7 getting support dropped, I figured it was time I finally upgrade. Can't really make any excuses to put it off now. I'm Australian, I'm looking for a mid-range gaming PC. Looking to play games like Tekken 7 or the Yakuza games at 1080p 60fps, I'm cool with going down to 720p if needed. I'm coming off a 7-8 year old desktop using a GT 620 so basically anything is an upgrade. My budget is technically $1500 AUD but I'm not keen on burning it all here. Did my shopping around on centrecom.com.au on a friend's recommendation and this is a build I made with that advice and some reviews. I wanted to check in case I missed something important. AMD Ryzen 5 2600 6 Core Processor - YD2600BCAFBOX - $205.00 ASRock B450M-PRO4-F AMD AM4 mATX Motherboard - $108.00 Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) 3200MHz DDR4 Desktop RAM - Black - $129.00 Kingston A400 240GB 2.5" SATA III TLC Internal SSD - $46.00 Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - WD10EZEX - $55.00 NZXT H510 Mid Tower Case - Matte Black/Black - $135.00 Corsair VS550 550W 80 Plus White Power Supply - $69.00 ASUS Radeon RX 580 ROG Strix OC 8GB Graphics Card - $299 $1046 I have a copy of Windows 7 on this desktop, I can upgrade. I was a little confused about how important VRAM and RAM speed are so I went with the big effort post's suggestion and leaned on the high end. I'm... kind of hesitant about spending the money on a pure SSD computer right now, I have a habit of leaving around too many files.
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Jan 13, 2020 14:18
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Meaty Ore posted:I have the Enthoo Pro M and it includes space for two 3.5" drives; it looks like you can also buy extra mounting brackets/shelves to hold another five below the optical drive cage. I haven't looked into it though since I don't need the storage space, so ymmv. I thought about the regular Enthoo Pro at first, but I didn't know what I'd do with three 5.25" drive bays on a regular home-use PC. I ended up going with the Enthoo Pro because of all the mounting bays meant I didn't need to order separate parts. You can check out the complete list for the build here: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/g8Bwq3. I went with Ryzen 9 3900x over intel because these days I do more streaming/handbraking than I do gaming with my PC. As for what to do with the extra drive bays? Time to install the famous thermaltake 5.25" Cigarette Lighter and Cup holder / ashtray https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ErL39wqO-c
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Jan 13, 2020 17:03
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Mysticblade posted:Hi, with Windows 7 getting support dropped, I figured it was time I finally upgrade. Can't really make any excuses to put it off now. 2 things What's the price delta there between a 1tb ssd and your somewhat outdated arrangement of boot ssd and spinner? I would probably also see what other cards compete with that 580 on price. I know it's aus but that card is old and 300 even in kangaroo kash sounds bad. Otherwise looks good, not knowing aus price differences. The only stuff I keep on spinning drives now is photos and videos/Plex type poo poo. Not a single game or program has spun since we got to $100:1tb or less in USA I also personally think building a gaming machine with less than 2tb in 2020 is a pretty big mistake unless you play very few games or don't mind deleting or shuffling (I mind) Call of duty , as an example ,is 120gb Worf fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Jan 13, 2020 |
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Jan 13, 2020 18:03
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Demostrs posted:Alright, I would say getting an M2 NVMe + SATA SSD would be a good idea. There is a performance impact, but getting the M2 version of the MX500 means you're still getting a SATA drive, just in a different form factor. You could grab this, which actually is an NVMe drive (just, also called a WD Blue drive >.>) Thanks Demostrs posted:The case also is on the smaller end of ATX cases. Like Kalman and Stickman said, though, that along with how much space is behind the motherboard means lower compatibility with air coolers; the Mugen 5 barely fits in that thing. A lot of people just use AIOs in it because of that. I was sure I picked one that said EATX which I assumed stood for "extended", but I'll keep looking.
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Jan 13, 2020 18:12
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Mysticblade posted:Hi, with Windows 7 getting support dropped, I figured it was time I finally upgrade. Can't really make any excuses to put it off now. Absolutley get a 1TB SSD imo. At the very least get 500GB.
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Jan 13, 2020 18:27
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Seconding having at least a 500gb. 240s fill up fast.
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Jan 13, 2020 18:31
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Do not get a 500gb. Then you have an OS, one or 2 games and nothing lol and spent more for little gain. Just get a 1tb. You're under budget and that hard drive situation is partially why. Maybe the video card to an extent too.
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Jan 13, 2020 18:38
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I have kind of a niche situation, and I'm wondering the best way to go about solving it: I work from home 2 days a week and I would ideally like to use the same mouse/keyboard/monitor that I will use for my gaming PC. I can use my work laptop as a second monitor when needed, but given the space of my desk/apartment it isn't very convenient, clean, and comfortable to move the keyboard/mouse and switch cables every time I need to work. I'd rather just plug in a USB cable (like the dock at work). Is there some type of peripheral or feature I can use to easily switch these components over to work on my laptop?
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Jan 13, 2020 20:50
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Synergy, though it's gone paid. If there are free alternatives I'd be interested as well. E: missed monitor. You could plug M+Kb into a hub and just move the hub and monitor cable. Fantastic Foreskin fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Jan 13, 2020 |
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Jan 13, 2020 20:54
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Presenting Nipples posted:Is there some type of peripheral or feature I can use to easily switch these components over to work on my laptop? These are usually referred to as a KVM (for Keyboard, Video, and Mouse), and while I've not used a physical one for a decade, I'm sure they still exist, so searching that keyword might get you what you need. Just bear in mind that there's virtual ones too.
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Jan 13, 2020 21:01
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Jaded Burnout posted:These are usually referred to as a KVM (for Keyboard, Video, and Mouse), and while I've not used a physical one for a decade, I'm sure they still exist, so searching that keyword might get you what you need. Just bear in mind that there's virtual ones too. Yeah I started to google around. Looking closely it doesn't appear there is one that is good for gaming and a monitor (unless you want to shell out a lot of money) Most KVMs only support 1080p 30hz sort of thing. I think I'll look to get a monitor with two ports and a USB switch for the mouse/keyboard. I think that will work? Still have to plug in an HDMI cable, but that isn't a huge deal. I don't think my company would go for me installing the software on their machine. They are pricks...
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Jan 13, 2020 21:15
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Oh I see, yeah, the Gaming Factor. I've only really worked with them in commercial settings.
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Jan 13, 2020 21:27
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I've been gaming on console for the last bajillion years and mostly using a chromebook. I think I'd like to put together a decent gaming desktop - Escape From Tarkov looks pretty fun in particular. I'm not looking for a specific build right now, more just a realistic target budget to save towards for the next 1-3 months. I'd rather land on the slightly more future-proof side of things compared to the more budget/faster obsolescence side if possible. Given I need everything including a monitor, is something like $1500 a reasonable budget, or does the monitor push things up more? edit: not sure if 24' or 27" monitor would be better; viewing distance is about 32-36" from screen (tho I know that's more suited to the monitor thread) idiotsavant fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Jan 13, 2020 |
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Jan 13, 2020 21:29
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Jaded Burnout posted:I was sure I picked one that said EATX which I assumed stood for "extended", but I'll keep looking. It looks like it does, I just called it an ATX case because most case manufacturers don't explicitly call cases an "EATX" case. In any case ( ), it will feel like a Shuttle PC next to that Cosmos II you have now, but it's just a relative thing.
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Jan 13, 2020 21:37
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I use a switching usb hub for my work laptop, gaming pc, and home server. I plug my keyboard and mouse into it and it has a button on it to switch which machine I’m controlling. My monitor also had 2 hdmi and 1 DisplayPort inputs so I also switch inputs on my monitor when I switch machines. IOGEAR 2 Computer 4-Port USB 2.0 Peripheral Sharing Switch, GUS402 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD8I2OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lAnhEb1RAJJ3V
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Jan 13, 2020 21:44
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Demostrs posted:It looks like it does, I just called it an ATX case because most case manufacturers don't explicitly call cases an "EATX" case. In any case ( Oh my the Shuttle, I've not heard that name in a long time. I used to have one back in '03 I think.
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Jan 13, 2020 21:51
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idiotsavant posted:I've been gaming on console for the last bajillion years and mostly using a chromebook. I think I'd like to put together a decent gaming desktop - Escape From Tarkov looks pretty fun in particular. I'm not looking for a specific build right now, more just a realistic target budget to save towards for the next 1-3 months. I'd rather land on the slightly more future-proof side of things compared to the more budget/faster obsolescence side if possible. Given I need everything including a monitor, is something like $1500 a reasonable budget, or does the monitor push things up more? That's a great budget. It all really depends on whether you want to game at 1080p or 1440p. 1440p *might* bump your budget to ~$1700 or so depending on how much you want to "future proof" (you can't future proof). But for 1080p that's a very easy budget to come in at.
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Jan 13, 2020 22:01
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Yeah, that's what I mean by slightly more future-proof... ideally have it stay usable a few years longer vs go obsolete a year or two earlier.
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Jan 13, 2020 22:04
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Nobody knows what's coming both in terms of hardware and software requirements. You can spend some extra money to get parts that are likely to stay useful longer, but no one can promise anything. Anyways, $1500 will get a good 1440p144 system / monitor, a solid 1080p60 can be had for $800-900 (or less, if you're willing to err on the opposite end of relevant longer).
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Jan 13, 2020 22:14
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