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Gewehr 43 posted:I accidentally bought a pair of bottles of Tamiya "quick setting" extra thin cement. Smells like straight up acetone. Anyone ever used it? Didn't know such a thing even existed. I use it as my main glue. It's great. Glues parts together basically instantly for handling, but yeah be careful and let it set fully.
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Jan 11, 2020 04:15
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^^^ Would you say it cures faster or slower than regular Tamiya extra thin? ^^^Fearless posted:It sounds like it might be related to some of the Weld-On products. I used them for gluing styrene and plexiglass (sometimes to themselves, sometimes to each other) when doing architectural models. The idea is to get a part in place, then dab the glue with the applicator around the seam-- capillary action will draw the thin glue into the gap and melt the plastic so it can fuse. Parts will become glued quickly, but it does take some time for the joint to truly harden. If that is indeed weld-on #4, use it sparingly on styrene plastic as it can cause it to melt and lose structural strength. Interesting. Thanks. I've used Tamiya extra thin for years, so I'm familiar with how to use these types of cements. I'd just never heard of this "quick setting" stuff before I opened the box.
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Jan 11, 2020 05:18
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Gewehr 43 posted:Interesting. Thanks. I've used Tamiya extra thin for years, so I'm familiar with how to use these types of cements. I'd just never heard of this "quick setting" stuff before I opened the box. The weld-on we used would set up pretty quick. I could get plexiglass components glued together in a few seconds.
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Jan 11, 2020 05:40
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Gewehr 43 posted:^^^ Would you say it cures faster or slower than regular Tamiya extra thin? ^^^ Total curing? Couldn't say I timed it or anything, but it never seemed to make a difference to my process, so about the same?
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Jan 11, 2020 06:23
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Furism posted:Thanks! Hasegawa 1/48 and Academy 1/32 both have decals for that squadron. There is also a few aftermarket decals, in every scale. Just search for the squadron here. I mean, you can ever search by BuNo of your friend's jet and maybe you'll get lucky. Who knows.
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Jan 11, 2020 08:58
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Gewehr 43 posted:^^^ Would you say it cures faster or slower than regular Tamiya extra thin? ^^^ I saw a video on YouTube some time ago where the guy showed that the "Quick Setting" version allows for whatever the medium is to evaporate faster than when it isn't, and the glue basically leaves no trace even if you spread it on a flat surface. I think that's the main difference. Gervasius posted:Hasegawa 1/48 and Academy 1/32 both have decals for that squadron. There is also a few aftermarket decals, in every scale. Just search for the squadron here. I mean, you can ever search by BuNo of your friend's jet and maybe you'll get lucky. Who knows. Awesome, thanks a ton!
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Jan 11, 2020 10:10
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I built me a plane (Revell Constellation), any tips on the best way to install antenna wire on the top using plain old black string, or should I look for a different method? Also don't mind the terrible mess that is my desk at this moment.
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Jan 12, 2020 22:38
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String is way too thick and string-y. Stretch some spruce and use that. Use superglue to attach it. You can even use a sharpie to color it black.
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Jan 13, 2020 01:56
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30 to 40 gauge wire should do the trick, probably closer to 40 than 30.
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Jan 13, 2020 02:02
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I saw some sort of rigging/antenna wire that would shrink when heated so you would install it with a couple dabs of CA glue then heat it up to pull it taut. Anybody know what that stuff is? I'm thinking about building a photo etch bending tool. I haven't used much photo etch, but it should be an easy afternoon project on the mill. The ones I see online have a lot of different fingers at different widths and some of them come to a point. Is it useful to have that many different fingers or would you be able to get by with 99% of the bending with just a wide, medium, and narrow finger?
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Jan 13, 2020 02:14
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the fingers are good to have because sometimes you need the gap space or some weird fold to deal with. I would say must have's are having fingers that angle to a point. I have a cheap one where one side has a 45 degree angle on all the fingers where as the other 3 sides are curved. maybe have each side angle to a different degree such as: curved side, 30 degree side, 45 degree side, 60 degree side?
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Jan 13, 2020 02:22
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SkunkDuster posted:I saw some sort of rigging/antenna wire that would shrink when heated so you would install it with a couple dabs of CA glue then heat it up to pull it taut. Anybody know what that stuff is? Stretched sprue will do that. The heat source can be a just blown out match, an incense stick, or even a blow dryer. The other advantage is that you can always make more on the spot if you mess it up. Metal wire can be tricky to install, since you have to get it exactly the right length. Also, any impact will leave it with a bend. You can also use the stretchy monofilament used in sewing.
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Jan 13, 2020 02:47
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SkunkDuster posted:I saw some sort of rigging/antenna wire that would shrink when heated so you would install it with a couple dabs of CA glue then heat it up to pull it taut. Anybody know what that stuff is? Any elastic rigging line will shrink a bit when you expose it to a bit of heat. You can use EZ line, uschi's rigging stuff, or Infini's rigging lines. The trick is to avoid like, extreme heat. What I usually do is heat a needle in a pin vise up over a lighter or candle and then use that to gently tighten up the lines by holding it close.
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Jan 13, 2020 03:28
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I built the Revell 1/72 Leo 2A6 over the weekend, and my trip report consists of mostly swearing at German stereotypes. There was no need to cast all these pieces separately. The turret ring doesn't fit into the hull without modification. The casting detail is weirdly mushy in places and there's issues with fitment all over. The tracks. The tracks.
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Jan 13, 2020 14:57
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Welcome to 1/72! The only thing worse than rubber tracks is individual links!
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Jan 13, 2020 15:20
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I've never built a 1:72 tank that didn't have track problems. With individual links I end up with a gap too narrow for an link but too wide to ignore. With straight and link I either get the same problem or the wheels end up not perfectly aligned so the link part has an S bend. With rubber tracks they're inevitably too short. I might just be cursed. vvv 
Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Jan 13, 2020 |
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Jan 13, 2020 19:23
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The recent Airfix Cromwell fixes it in a pretty ingenious way. It's one of those rare Airfix kits that I can say is good with no "but..." at the end.
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Jan 13, 2020 20:09
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Rubber tracks are perfectly cromulent. They're ugly but not much fuss. Individual links and a jig makes for a fine final product, even if it is a pain. Even a preformed wheel-and-track unit you slap on the side is fine, if it's not cast like total garbage. These were two straight, rigid plastic track sets per side. You have to heat them to get them flexible enough to contour to the wheels. They're too long to do so without trimming off individual links, and fragile enough to break even after you've heated them. You also have to line up the track link teeth with the actual drive wheel sprocket, and weave it through the interleaved return rollers. So, y'know, German.
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Jan 13, 2020 20:19
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the best tracks are the kits that just have the straight sections of track as a single molded piece and you use the individual links for curves
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Jan 13, 2020 20:25
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The best 1:72 scale tracks I've seen were fully molded in a loop already. This is a pretty rare solution, though. I've mostly seen it in simplified wargaming minis.
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Jan 13, 2020 21:48
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The worst tracks I've seen were workable T-34 tracks from photo-etch in 1/72.
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Jan 13, 2020 22:38
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Molentik posted:The worst tracks I've seen were workable T-34 tracks from photo-etch in 1/72. 
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Jan 13, 2020 23:30
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Molentik posted:The worst tracks I've seen were workable T-34 tracks from photo-etch in 1/72. 
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Jan 13, 2020 23:37
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Molentik posted:The worst tracks I've seen were workable T-34 tracks from photo-etch in 1/72. 
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Jan 14, 2020 08:21
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Molentik posted:The worst tracks I've seen were workable T-34 tracks from photo-etch in 1/72. What a great group build idea!
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Jan 14, 2020 08:40
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Molentik posted:The worst tracks I've seen were workable T-34 tracks from photo-etch in 1/72. I searched out of morbid curiosity, and found this track set on eBay. It's real, folks.
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Jan 14, 2020 21:16
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Thats the one. It must be amazing to get those to work, if you don't lose your mind doing it.
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Jan 14, 2020 23:59
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Blue Footed Booby posted:I searched out of morbid curiosity, and found this track set on eBay. It's real, folks. Holy poo poo murder me.
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Jan 15, 2020 04:42
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Chrome is refusing to load the page on my tablet...
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Jan 15, 2020 09:30
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I know cars aren't quite this threads jam but I only really do cars so below is my latest completion which is the Tamiya Jaguar Xjr-9 LM. I decided to buy indycals set of aftermarket decals but appart from the sponsor decals I kinda wish I'd just used the ones in the kit cause they where still pretty good after sitting in a box for nearly 30 years. I attempted to complete the engine bay plumbing as close as I could to the actual car which is only visible if you take the back off the car.          
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Jan 15, 2020 10:52
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I have all the time in the world for modded race cars and Silk Cut jags are just  Nice job
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Jan 15, 2020 11:04
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Never feel bad about posting cars. I don't build any 'cause I'm bad at them, but that should never stop anyone else.
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Jan 15, 2020 15:14
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grassy gnoll posted:Never feel bad about posting cars. I don't build any 'cause I'm bad at them, but that should never stop anyone else. Same. I did an F1 car and it was a totally different challenge than tanks or planes. I have a cutesy little 1960's Subaru that I still need to build but cars are hard.
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Jan 15, 2020 15:27
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Agreed. Cars aren't my thing to build, but I can certainly appreciate the workmanship that goes into something like that. 
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Jan 15, 2020 15:51
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grassy gnoll posted:Never feel bad about posting cars. I don't build any 'cause I'm bad at them, but that should never stop anyone else. Good grief yes post anything you build. I still wish the model food builder would come back, that stuff was off the chain.
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Jan 15, 2020 19:33
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Molentik posted:The worst tracks I've seen were workable T-34 tracks from photo-etch in 1/72. Hot drat. Do not try that, fellow modelgoons. Stay safe.
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Jan 15, 2020 23:27
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Wow, that looks crazy good. Always love seeing cars come up and yours are incredible.
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Jan 15, 2020 23:52
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Thanks for the compliments guys. I knew if I was going to do the jag it needed the full original sponsor decals and they weren’t that easy to track down. I’m not a huge fan of F1 cars because they’re generally held together with a wing and a prayer of tiny parts. I’m working on finishing a Mercedes C9 which I started before the jag but got the shits at when the rear wheel fell off as they are fully photoetch. I’d like to get a Porsche 956 with Rothman decals to make a full trio of 80’s leman cars. I need to work on my clearcoating cause I’m not really liking the way they come out so I’m thinking of switching to airbrushing the clear with leveling thinners because I don’t want to do full 2k clear coating.
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Jan 16, 2020 00:36
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Always post racecars. Looks great dude.
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Jan 16, 2020 01:40
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Had to rearrange the shelves so that I could fit all of the cars I've built onto it. These have all been made since the middle of 2018 when I ditched warhammer to build cars instead. The 2 F1 cars will probably be the only ones I'll ever do because both of them where a pain in the backside to finish off.  
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Jan 16, 2020 04:10
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