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I just don't think the jiggle/rpm/cylinder holds up in multi-cylinder engines, due to harmonics, opposed-pistons etc. Whereas 1-spark always = 1/(n*x) where x is 2 for wasted spark and 1 for not of the total rpm.
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Jan 10, 2020 04:41
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tangy yet delightful posted:Well actually it turns out I'm stupid and didn't realize they sell multiple block types. I just have their normal blocks and not the pinch weld ones. However I use them to lift via my pinch welds and they seem to work fine? I'd have to read the manual again but I think they even say it's fine. Yeah to be honest I have done so as well in the past. But getting a brand new car, so don't want to gently caress up my pinch welds in case they are weaker. bolind posted:The one in your picture, if it's the one from Biltema, stinks to high heaven years after you've bought it. Yeah I have used them before but didn't have the proper tools to make them look nice, so I think I'll give it another go. But they aren't as tall as the QJ blocks, and IIRC much softer, so might be a problem.
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Jan 10, 2020 06:44
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MrOnBicycle posted:Yeah to be honest I have done so as well in the past. But getting a brand new car, so don't want to gently caress up my pinch welds in case they are weaker.
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Jan 10, 2020 06:55
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Minto Took posted:Are any of the auto parts store brands of tools worth a poo poo? I've actually heard good things about Napa's Carlyle brand on garagejournal. I'm a little skeptical, but the GJ guys tend to know what they're talking about 
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Jan 10, 2020 08:47
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ThinkFear posted:A photo tach works, too. Y'all are overthinking it. A photo tach does it with the only setup being putting a piece of sticky tape on the spinny part. https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Phot...en%2C176&sr=8-3
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Jan 10, 2020 12:20
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Y'all are overthinking it. A photo tach does it with the only setup being putting a piece of sticky tape on the spinny part. And when there are no spinney parts that are easily visible? I can't think of a single easily accessible spinney part on my mower or log splitter. Or my generator for that matter. Nope, not the pressure washer either.
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Jan 10, 2020 17:38
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The Door Frame posted:I'm looking for a way to measure engine RPMs quickly and accurately to set engine idle and check the accuracy of my tach. I'm currently looking at the Briggs and Stratton one for simplicity, but I'm overwhelmed by how many choices there are in the $20-$50 range Motronic posted:And when there are no spinney parts that are easily visible? It seemed to me that OP was asking about a car motor or some such. I never said a photo tach was perfect for everything, but for a car, it'd be a heck of a lot easier and better than a small engine hour meter.
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Jan 10, 2020 18:13
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Okay so you're going to get your oscilloscope, stethoscope, and headphones...
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Jan 10, 2020 18:28
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um excuse me posted:Okay so you're going to get your oscilloscope, stethoscope, and headphones... I was going to make a joke about an acoustic spectrum analyzer and look for harmonics, but god drat, there really is cell phone apps that supposedly do just that: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.javiery.rpmgauge&hl=en_US
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Jan 10, 2020 18:34
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It wouldn't be hard to figure out once you figured out which harmonic you're supposed to be looking at. With an engine, you can also listen to the exhaust or crank ventilation.
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Jan 10, 2020 18:39
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In other tool news, I've been buying some red things and some lime green things and a yellow thing. I got a nice DeWalt table saw to replace my 25 year old Craftsman and... man... I should have done that years ago. Higher RPM and not-sloppy tolerances with an awesome fence makes it a joy to use. As far as red stuff, I'm mixed. I got a first-gen M18 nailer before I knew they were poo poo. Yep, they're poo poo. Big, clunky, jammming. Took it back. BUT I got a new 1/4" M12 Fuel Surge Impact Driver and that thing is absolutely tits. It's small, easy to handle, powerful as frig. Quickly becoming one of my favorite tools. After the Milwaukee nailer, I saw a lot of good reviews for the Ryobi. I got it and... it works. It's not immediate fire like some of the more expensive/better ones, there's a 3/4 of a second or so lag, but it drives 2" brads with no issue. Plus, it's nose is easier to get into tight places than the Milwaukee. Since I bought into the Ryobi ecosystem, I got one of their brushless orbital jigsaws, again to replace a broken 25 year old Craftsman. Haven't used it yet, but it seems jigsawy enough. Finally, I got the Ryobi spotlight. That thing is a loving beast of a light. Easy and legitimate 1/4 mile throw. Impressive and a bit much for suburbia. That's my report for now.
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Jan 10, 2020 19:03
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Could I build a test light with adjustable resistances by having a bulb socket and different bulbs (say, headlights?) that can be swapped out? Is there an easy way to find the right ones? This is partially "I want to learn about this", partially "I feel like this would be useful", and partially "I'm on my third harbor freight test light that doesn't work". Also, totally inspired by South Main Auto - it looked like he uses something like this as test lights, albeit probably "more than one", rather than swapping bulbs.
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Jan 10, 2020 19:07
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meatpimp posted:I was going to make a joke about an acoustic spectrum analyzer and look for harmonics, but god drat, there really is cell phone apps that supposedly do just that: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.javiery.rpmgauge&hl=en_US I poo poo you not, decades ago there was some way to do this using a loving tape recorder and some basic circuitry, hooked up to an inductive trigger like you'd find on a timing light.
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Jan 10, 2020 19:41
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Krakkles posted:Could I build a test light with adjustable resistances by having a bulb socket and different bulbs (say, headlights?) that can be swapped out? Is there an easy way to find the right ones? Before I finished reading I was going to mention SMA. I think he just uses normal headlight/marker light sockets and swaps them as needed.
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Jan 10, 2020 20:26
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opengl128 posted:Before I finished reading I was going to mention SMA. I think he just uses normal headlight/marker light sockets and swaps them as needed.
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Jan 10, 2020 20:32
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Yikes, the hostility towards the humble sirometer was not expected. Did no one ever drive a lovely old car with a long antenna and notice that the antenna shook at a certain engine speed? That principle is how it measures RPMs, it could be a single pot or a V16, but it will vibrate at a specific and measurable frequency that can be used to calculate the rate that the crank is rotating, regardless of the amplitude of the vibration. Every sirometer I've seen is also a slide rule that does the math for you I was drawn to it because it only needs solid contact with any vibrating object to work, it works to measure NVH as well, and it can be used on anything from a weedwhacker to an engine lathe Laser ones are my second choice, third would be a lower tech optical like a strobe, and very last would be inductive
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Jan 11, 2020 01:26
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I have close to 2 dozen Hardline Products inductive tach/hour meters installed on various equipment at work and they're extremely good and reliable fwiw. Worth the extra $10 over random-brand on Amazon. e:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FOOAXY/
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Jan 11, 2020 02:09
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meatpimp posted:I was going to make a joke about an acoustic spectrum analyzer and look for harmonics, but god drat, there really is cell phone apps that supposedly do just that: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.javiery.rpmgauge&hl=en_US Oh man, working in an industry that has a painful history of exploding tens of millions of dollars worth of spinny bits, this is the only speed measurement technology we use any more, I had no idea the chineseum versions were so cheap, yeah, use this if you can. Strobotachs are the funnest way to measure speed, because strobe lights are fun, but they're expensive, and ghosting and doubling are a bitch.
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Jan 11, 2020 02:22
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Raluek posted:I've actually heard good things about Napa's Carlyle brand on garagejournal. I'm a little skeptical, but the GJ guys tend to know what they're talking about I'm too poor for Carlyle, so I have a bunch of their Evercraft stuff. Wrenches are eh, ratchets/sockets are actually really nice, everything else is pretty good but nothing special.
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Jan 11, 2020 02:28
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The local we're-totally-not-a-monopoly electrical home components manufacturer have changed all their stuff to use T10. While I agree that it's a pro move, I didn't have a Wera VDE screwdriver in that torx size. Amazon Germany were being little bitches about shipping most of those available, and the one they would send had the correct T10 Wera part number but said T20 in the description. I decided to gamble and ordered two. They sent me one T10 and one T20.
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Jan 13, 2020 12:30
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Pro tip: when torquing small screws, make sure that your torque wrench is actually in-lbs and not ft-lbs. Luckily it broke a 1/4" above the block and I could easily extract it. Especially since I was bolting into an AL manifold.
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Jan 13, 2020 21:09
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Uthor posted:Pro tip: when torquing small screws, make sure that your torque wrench is actually in-lbs and not ft-lbs. "No stop!" I scream as the screw retaining a $50,000 circuit card becomes one with the rail it goes into. This is indeed, a pro tip.
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Jan 14, 2020 05:19
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If it's not a tiny torque wrench it's probably not inch pounds.
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Jan 14, 2020 17:37
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Elviscat posted:"No stop!" I scream as the screw retaining a $50,000 circuit card becomes one with the rail it goes into. Sorry for being obtuse, but could you explain more on this situation.
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Jan 14, 2020 17:58
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C-Bangin' it 
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Alternatively, make sure the person who wrote the spec isn't on crack. I recently had a Miata guide list cam cap bolts in foot pounds. At this point if you know, you know.
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Jan 14, 2020 17:59
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Wrar posted:If it's not a tiny torque wrench it's probably not inch pounds. It's the size of my small HF wrench, which is in in-lbs. I should have really put it together when I realized that it is a 3/8" drive instead of 1/4". 
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Jan 14, 2020 18:20
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Uthor posted:I should have really put it together when I realized that it is a 3/8" drive instead of 1/4". I mean, my CDI 2502 MRPH is a 30-250 inlb in 3/8". I remember when I was rebuilding my 4A-GE and tried to torque my oil pump housing bolts to 8 ftlbs with a 20 ftlb 3/8" torque wrench. I snapped off one bolt before I decided to just do it gutentite. In my defense, at the time I was ignorant of how bad a torque wrench gets at the end of its spec range, much less outside of it.
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Jan 14, 2020 19:14
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Colostomy Bag posted:Sorry for being obtuse, but could you explain more on this situation. Shock-rated instrumentation cabinet for a nuclear reactor, I was the supervisor for the plant as a whole, but not the card replacement being done, I walk by and notice that the torque wrench the workers are using is a little big for fidgety electronic stuff, and walk up to stop them, right as the eee-eeeek of the threads galling together sounds, and the whole hold-down bolt starts twisting, they had grabbed a ft-lbs wrench, their torque spec was in in-lbs, so they applied 12x the required torque. They also forgot to put a chip in the card, so it had to be extracted, queue a like 100 hour job stripping every other card in the cabinet, and taping off the data bus connections so that metal shavings from drilling and retapping the hole couldn't get in.
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Jan 14, 2020 20:22
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If you are tightening something and it feels like it is taking 10x the force it should, stop and rethink. Took me a few years to figure that one out.
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Jan 14, 2020 21:00
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And if a spec seems funny look up a chart with torque values by fastener size and type. Even FSMs have errors. https://www.fastenal.com/content/merch_rules/images/fcom/content-library/Torque-Tension%20Reference%20Guide.pdf Beach Bum posted:
It's like, possibly an extra 1-2%, or not. Differences in one bolt/threaded hole to another as far as machining tolerance, cleanliness, etc, tightening, loosening, then re-tightening all have more effect on your actual fastener load than being at the end of the wrench's range or not. If you couldn't use the wrench at those settings, they wouldn't be on the wrench in the first place. The only actual issue is that with too big a wrench at the low end of the range it's harder to notice the click and you might just go right past it and break something.
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Jan 14, 2020 21:17
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jamal posted:. The only actual issue is that with too big a wrench at the low end of the range it's harder to notice the click and you might just go right past it and break something. Two throttle body bolts for me. Luckily the broken ends came out easy enough. Then ran with threaded rod and a nut for a few years.
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Jan 14, 2020 21:21
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taqueso posted:If you are tightening something and it feels like it is taking 10x the force it should, stop and rethink. Took me a few years to figure that one out. Mechanical empathy is something that often takes time to develop. You don't know what "feels" right until you gently caress enough stuff up by making it too tight. (I've hosed enough stuff up to know what feels right)
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Jan 14, 2020 21:26
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Yeah, it's an unteachable skill as far as I can tell, it makes managing a fleet of guys right out of school who are trusted to use tools for complex jobs pretty challenging, one of those guys will set the torque on the wrench, then just go whole hog, thinking "it's not supposed to torque anymore" once it reaches the setpoint, or they'll have the dial torque wrench needle bound up on the stop, and they'll wonder why it's still indicating 0 when they have 100 ft/lbs on the fastener. And then there's trying to teach them how to safety-wire....
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Jan 14, 2020 22:42
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Elviscat posted:Yeah, it's an unteachable skill as far as I can tell, it makes managing a fleet of guys right out of school who are trusted to use tools for complex jobs pretty challenging, one of those guys will set the torque on the wrench, then just go whole hog, thinking "it's not supposed to torque anymore" once it reaches the setpoint, or they'll have the dial torque wrench needle bound up on the stop, and they'll wonder why it's still indicating 0 when they have 100 ft/lbs on the fastener. Can you not have like a remedial torque wrench instruction or does it just not take? How do you get safety-wiring wrong? I don't even understand.
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Jan 14, 2020 23:45
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builds character posted:How do you get safety-wiring wrong? I don't even understand. Do it backwards, ie so the fasteners can rotate counter-clockwise but not clockwise.
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Jan 14, 2020 23:57
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I’ve spent the last 2 months trying to figure out an intermittent stalling problem with our Escape. No ‘check engine,’ and no faults I could find with Torque Pro and a cheap ELM dongle. I finally took it into a shop and they immediately said “you’ve got a pending code for a fuel rail sensor. It’s erroneously reading ‘high’ and shutting off your fuel pump.” How can I gain these troubleshooting powers for myself? Am I using Torque wrong? I’ve pulled actual CEL codes with it plenty of times. Do I need a fancier device to get whatever ‘pending code’ the shop found?
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Jan 15, 2020 14:18
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eddiewalker posted:I’ve spent the last 2 months trying to figure out an intermittent stalling problem with our Escape. No ‘check engine,’ and no faults I could find with Torque Pro and a cheap ELM dongle. There are OEM codes that aren't in the OBDII standard. You'd need a better code reader. For example, VAG-COM for Volkswagen products, or a Tech2 for GM will let you do things like read the individual cylinder contributions in a diesel, cycle the ABS pump to bleed the brakes, do a crank sensor re-learn, or hundreds of other operations.
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Jan 15, 2020 15:29
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You can pull OEM Ford codes with FORScan which is free, just need a compatible OBD dongle for it. I used it a bunch on my Mustang for coding purposes but it reads every single module in the car.
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Jan 15, 2020 15:32
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sharkytm posted:There are OEM codes that aren't in the OBDII standard. You'd need a better code reader. For example, VAG-COM for Volkswagen products, or a Tech2 for GM will let you do things like read the individual cylinder contributions in a diesel, cycle the ABS pump to bleed the brakes, do a crank sensor re-learn, or hundreds of other operations. Is there an at-home “Swiss army” reader, or would it mean buying something new for every make? We’ve got Mazda, Ford, Dodge and Kia.
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Jan 15, 2020 15:35
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I used my Autel AL319 ($35) to read manufacturer specific codes form an Acura MDX yesterday. It seems to have many makes in the menu for a simple reader. It's also really fast. It shows live data in a very basic format, but good enough to troubleshoot a lot of things. Unfortunately the codes were all transmission related :/ A basic Autel MaxiCOM dignostic system for $515 on amazon can do quite a lot more. It crosses the line into more advanced functions such as turning on and off solenoids to test, running built-in diagnostic tests that some cars have, doing TPMS stuff, Displaying live data, ABS, Airbag codes and all that. It's basically a rugged android tablet with good software and a bluetooth obd plug. The prices go up from there. I had a coworker with a Snap-On Modis Ultra which is probably over $6k, but it functions as a scope, and it did all kinds of insane poo poo.
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Jan 15, 2020 16:46
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