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PSA: Power Pro screws are trash. Spax screws are good. And they were about the same price (HD ran out of the Spax in the size I was using). The PPs didn't start as easy, were for some reason more likely to drive deeper than I wanted, the bit wouldn't detach from each head without wiggling it a bit, and ~1% were unuseable due to having metal gunked up heads. ~1000 square feet of screwing down subfloor ended up taking about 1300 screws doing every 6" on the edges and 10-12" in the middles.
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Jan 15, 2020 00:45
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Someone, someday is going to hate you so much.
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Jan 15, 2020 01:00
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Sirotan posted:Someone, someday is going to hate you so much. Says the person painting a wall black.
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Jan 15, 2020 01:50
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TacoHavoc posted:Says the person painting a wall black. It's navy blue 
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Jan 15, 2020 01:56
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For making their floor squeak free? I think not. I will be hailed as a hero
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Jan 15, 2020 02:11
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Wow I’ve been trying to find out what the gently caress this dirt buildup on my living room hardwood floor is since I moved in a few months ago and it turns out to be wax (or a buildup of old ‘cleaning’ product or both). I’ve literally tried so many cleaners and someone pointed me towards winded and it’s just cleaning this poo poo off like no tomorrow.
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Jan 15, 2020 02:41
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Wow I’ve been trying to find out what the gently caress this dirt buildup on my living room hardwood floor is since I moved in a few months ago and it turns out to be wax (or a buildup of old ‘cleaning’ product or both). Naphtha is an A++++ wax dissolver too. Kinda stinks though, but it’ll get you feelin a little groovy. The trick with wax removal is that you still have to get it off the floor once it’s dissolved, not just spread it around, so change rags frequently.
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Jan 15, 2020 03:28
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If it's really thick buildup (i.e. years and years of wax), once you soften it you can also use a plastic putty knife to scrape up most of it, then finish with your rag to get the remaining film. It goes faster that way.
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Jan 15, 2020 03:36
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TofuDiva posted:If it's really thick buildup (i.e. years and years of wax), once you soften it you can also use a plastic putty knife to scrape up most of it, then finish with your rag to get the remaining film. It goes faster that way. It seems to just be a thin layer but it’s gotten darker with foot traffic and general use. Light scrubbing with a paper towel and windex made a huge difference in the spots I tried. I have an oreck orbiter so I’m gonna open up a fuckin pit on these floors this weekend.
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Jan 15, 2020 04:23
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More adventures in new (to us) house. Turns out we have a second water heater that the home inspector missed. Ours is a manufactured home that has these screwed-on panels here and there. I was trying to track down the source of a draft in the bedroom, and was also trying to track down the shut off for the exterior water tap, so I took off the panel in the bedroom closet as that roughly corresponds to where the tap is outside. Turns out there was a second water heater behind it. It also turns out that the vent on the exterior wall, that I thought was the exhaust from the bathroom fan, is just a   The water heater is gas and it appears to be venting properly through the ceiling.  Question: Is there any reason not to cap that vent in the wall and stuff some insulation in there? Also, the water heater appears to be sitting in a pan designed to catch leaks, but the hole in the pan appears to open into the insulated floor/crawlspace ceiling. Exterior tap shutoffs are still MIA. edit: Reading more, I probably need that as an air intake for the unit. In that case, I'm thinking I should just try to seal that area off as much as possible from the rest of the house? just another fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Jan 15, 2020 |
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Jan 15, 2020 05:37
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Fallom posted:"Checking" is normal. You can compare your post to the ones on this page here: https://inspectapedia.com/structure/Beam_Log_Checking_Cracks.php. If it's split all the way through you have a problem. One Day Fish Sale posted:My instinct there is to open the crack up a bit, fill with construction adhesive, and clamp liberally until cured. Then glue and screw a new board to the side, understanding that it's not going to pick up any load at the top or bottom (though you could probably shape the ends so it would) but will stabilize the existing support. CloFan posted:You can clearly see daylight through the split here. H110Hawk posted:Is that light being seen through the bottom bit of the picture? Shine a bright light through the back of it and turn off your headlamp. If you can see through it that's bad as I understand it. I think I quoted everyone: The truss structure looks like this (from scrolling through Inspectapedia): https://inspectapedia.com/structure/Floor_or_Roof_Trusses.php  Yes, I could see light through the crack, and it looks like the crack ran up to the truss bracket. I spoke to my friend, who is a structural engineer, and inspects stuff like this all the time, and her non-professional opinion was to eventually get it inspected, but she has seen way worse damage on structures that are still standing, so it's probably not an urgent issue. I will call up the structural engineer I used for my kitchen reno in the near future. Right now I need to decide what to do with my tree-root-filled sewer pipe. I dug it up a few weekends ago. I just got one plumber to give a quote of $500 to patch it. Who knows if they'll backfill it for me. For that matter, should I go buy some pea gravel or sand or anything to place immediately around the pipe? I will hopefully get a second quote from another plumber I've used before tomorrow and make a decision. I kind of feel like cutting out and patching in a new length of 4" PVC isn't beyond my abilities, but will probably take me significantly longer to do it.  Lastly my fence is all rotten and falling over, so that's on the very near-future of things to replace. Does this thread have any opinions regarding trends in fencing? A lot of newer/more stylish homes in Austin are going with the horizontal fence-look. I admit I kind of like the look, but I suspect the construction method is more costly or complicated. I have one quote so far for labor, materials, and stain/sealer. of ~$7100. I need to go take a look at what that is per foot, but that is using cedar pickets. for a lot that's ~1/4 acre. One thing that stood out to me about this quote was my contractor wanted to install new wood posts, when the original fence was hung on galvanized steal posts. I'll admit a few of them are very poorly cemented in, but this seems like a downgrade to me.
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Jan 15, 2020 07:45
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We have decided to completely redo the floors in our house in Florida which is about 1300 square ft and currently has half tile half carpet. The carpet is horrible and the tile is cheap. We are trying to decide between Bamboo, nicer bigger tile, or some of the new vinyl waterproof flooring that's available now. We're leaning towards vinyl because it's more cost effective, but one problem I noticed with most of it is it's textured to look and feel like wood and from what I've heard from other people that have it is that it's a pain in the rear end to clean because of it. Anyone else have this experience? Also love the bamboo but it's costly and have heard horror stories about improper installation and it expanding and bowing up having to be completely torn back up again....The only somewhat foolproof solution seems to be tile but that's or last choice because of the acoustics, we don't really want the house to be an echo chamber if we can help it. I'm just kind of nervous about spending a poo poo ton of money to have the entire house done and there being some kind of problem, has anyone had good luck with a specific type/brand of flooring?
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Jan 15, 2020 17:31
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Applebees Appetizer posted:We have decided to completely redo the floors in our house in Florida which is about 1300 square ft and currently has half tile half carpet. The carpet is horrible and the tile is cheap. We are trying to decide between Bamboo, nicer bigger tile, or some of the new vinyl waterproof flooring that's available now. It's not for everyone, and it takes a little extra work to do it, but I installed a floating cork floor in my home, and tile in the kitchen and bathrooms. I have a friend who had the same type of cork floor in his kitchen, but I wouldn't recommend it in case you drop something heavy or sharp since it can be more easily damaged. After installing mine I did three coats of water-based floor polyurethane to sort of seal the floor and joints as I had seen that recommended online. The benefits of the floor are that it's warm underfoot, smooth, has high variation in pattern so you won't notice defects. I wouldn't call it "soft", it definitely feels like a hard floor if you kneel down on it, but it isn't like tile. This is approximately what I purchased. https://www.flooranddecor.com/cork/ari-smooth-cork-plank-100598473.html I think if I were to do it again, and still use cork I would've gone with a "pattern" more like this. that almost looks like stone or something with a little less 'loud' of a pattern: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Natural-Floors-by-USFloors-Cork-Hardwood-Flooring-Sample-Natural/3172667 Alternatively, for a future house I might be convinced to go with a vinyl plank, although I agree that a textured pattern seems like it would be hard to clean. I would invest in a robot vacuum and run it a few times a week to assist with cleaning.
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Jan 15, 2020 17:55
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You didn't ask about it, but the house we bought has cheap laminate that the previous owner (an old woman living by herself) was very proud of, but now that it's getting heavy traffic by four adults and a toddler, it is showing it's quality more and more. So I'd say, whatever you do, pay for quality.
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Jan 15, 2020 17:56
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We weren't thinking of going super cheap on laminate, but even the good quality laminate is more affordable than a quality bamboo and tile. Cork is something I didn't consider, will have to look into that thanks MetaJew. I would normally do the installation myself but I'm physically not able to, so I'm going to have to worry about a contractor doing the job right. With a house being lived in it's going to be a giant pain in the rear end to tear out the old poo poo and putting in new while moving everything around I'm really not looking forward to it lol. Also, is it typical for flooring to be done in the kitchen first and then put cabinets over it, or cabinets first then flooring around it? Because the previous owners did it the first way so the old tile will have to be cut where the cabinets are, that will be fun too 
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Jan 15, 2020 18:07
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Put in tatami and go full weeb.
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Jan 15, 2020 18:17
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Jaded Burnout posted:Put in tatami and go full weeb. Especially in the kitchen. Actually, I really liked my tatami floors when I lived in Japan and if I had a choice, I'd have at least one room with tatami. But they're a pain to take care of, need to be replaced semi-regularly, and I don't know how they hold up with pets (esp. cats) but I'm going to go with "poorly".
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Jan 15, 2020 18:41
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Also, is it typical for flooring to be done in the kitchen first and then put cabinets over it, or cabinets first then flooring around it? Because the previous owners did it the first way so the old tile will have to be cut where the cabinets are, that will be fun too It depends on the flooring. Wood, laminate, LVP or anything else that needs to be able to expand/contract must not go under the cabinets, because they will stop it from doing so and it will buckle. Really, the only advantage to flooring under the cabinets is the ability to move/replace the cabinets, which nobody really does anyway. Probably more likely that the flooring is replaced before the cabinet footprint is changed, which like you said, is a problem if it is under the cabinets. Flooring under the stove and fridge, and pay special attention to the dishwasher. It's common for people to trap the dishwasher with flooring and not be able to replace it.
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Jan 15, 2020 19:00
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Applebees Appetizer posted:We have decided to completely redo the floors in our house in Florida which is about 1300 square ft and currently has half tile half carpet. The carpet is horrible and the tile is cheap. We are trying to decide between Bamboo, nicer bigger tile, or some of the new vinyl waterproof flooring that's available now. I did a floating bamboo floor almost 10 years ago, and I wouldn't do it again. It hasn't really held up that well and it's kind of noisy to walk on (though this may be the case for a lot of floating floors).
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Jan 15, 2020 19:41
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Is your floating floor over an existing wood floor? We have terrazzo underneath if that makes any difference. And before anyone says to refurbish the terrazzo I would love to but it's an awful color and in really bad shape. [e] some of the tile that's made to look like wood is actually pretty cool, but again it's loving textured why the gently caress would they do that? I just want a smooth finish that's easy to clean. I just put some new tile in the bathroom that's slightly textured and it sucks, I have to scrub the floor on my hands and knees to get it clean. [e2] the more i look into floating floors it's probably not a great idea....Maybe if I were doing it myself but if I'm gonna have professionals do it might as well have it done the the best way possible Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Jan 15, 2020 |
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Jan 15, 2020 19:52
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My classroom has soft vinyl sheeting over the concrete slab. It's very obvious which parts of the floor get used more. Complete cleaning requires a deck brush and detergent, and rinsing rag mops often. The bathrooms with vinyl sheeting are awful (and also outside my range of responsibility.) Our house has engineered laminate and it's easy to vacuum and wipe. Stain resistant, scratch resistant… there are dents from falling objects, but real wood would have dented/stained even worse. Every room, including the kitchen, has wood look laminate. The bathrooms have tile look laminate. We're happy with our choice.
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Jan 16, 2020 01:04
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I laid some laminate planks from Sam's club a few months back, we're really happy with the quality and finish! It was really easy to DIY, but I'm also on a flat concrete slab so that may factor into it
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Jan 16, 2020 01:17
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peanut posted:My classroom has soft vinyl sheeting over the concrete slab. It's very obvious which parts of the floor get used more. Complete cleaning requires a deck brush and detergent, and rinsing rag mops often. The bathrooms with vinyl sheeting are awful (and also outside my range of responsibility.) Laminate that is constructed in Japan is higher quality than stuff that gets shipped to the US. I noticed this too while looking through Japanese catalogs when I was bored.
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Jan 16, 2020 07:27
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Construction starting tomorrow. We completed and pulled the permit after a 3-month process with the city (and 1.5 months before that for architectural construction) for a 1200 sqft interior remodel with structural modifications). So I moved up to the second floor - this is what the part that is going to be remodeled looks like when completely empty, prior to asbestos tile removal tomorrow: https://imgur.com/a/lKJUcXT
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Jan 16, 2020 07:32
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thoughts and prayers
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Jan 16, 2020 08:57
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ntan1 posted:Construction starting tomorrow. We completed and pulled the permit after a 3-month process with the city (and 1.5 months before that for architectural construction) for a 1200 sqft interior remodel with structural modifications).
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Jan 16, 2020 18:56
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ntan1 posted:Construction starting tomorrow. We completed and pulled the permit after a 3-month process with the city (and 1.5 months before that for architectural construction) for a 1200 sqft interior remodel with structural modifications). That is.. bad. I hope you're going to put in a vent that goes directly outside.
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Jan 16, 2020 19:06
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totalnewbie posted:That is.. bad. God drat, I seethe at hood vents that just recirculate. Yet at the same time, I have't lived in a place that has a REAL outside-venting exhaust hood since the early 2000's in college, so at this point I'm just sort of used to it. But what gets me is that last 4 places I've lived (current house, GF's apartment over the summer, some dude's house I was renting from him last winter while he was in FL, and my last house) ALL HAVE STOVES ON EXTERNAL WALLS! Jesus Christ, why couldn't the builders spend two extra loving hours to put in an external exhaust? To be fair, I guess I could have retrofitted one in at my last house, but the ex and I were saving p for a kitchen remodel and were just going to do it then, rather than just sort of half-rear end something. I plan to retrofit one in my current home this summer because it'll be a long time before I really tackle a full kitchen remodel at my current place.
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Jan 16, 2020 19:15
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Actually, this brings up something about my current hood. I've got a viking range hood, basically an older one of these. Problem is, there's a gap around the lights so a lot of oil/smoke/grease pulls up through the light socket instead of going back into the big open ventilator space. Any thoughts? Maybe I'm missing a cover/seal? Maybe I've got the wrong light bulbs? quote:But what gets me is that last 4 places I've lived (current house, GF's apartment over the summer, some dude's house I was renting from him last winter while he was in FL, and my last house) ALL HAVE STOVES ON EXTERNAL WALLS! Jesus Christ, why couldn't the builders spend two extra loving hours to put in an external exhaust? See, that takes work.
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Jan 16, 2020 20:16
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totalnewbie posted:That is.. bad.
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Jan 16, 2020 21:43
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totalnewbie posted:That is.. bad. That vent does go outside, but yes our newvent will indeed vent outside (it's not legal to install a recirculating one in CA I think). Update to construction - Asbestos contractors found more asbestos underneath all of the ceramic tile.
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Jan 16, 2020 22:31
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Whoever built our kitchen solved the problem of the vent going to nowhere by instead having it blow down onto the stovetop.
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Jan 16, 2020 23:12
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Dang My parent's apartment has a recirculating vent on the bottom of a microwave. Maybe it vents into the roof. It sucks hard.* Ours is so powerful that I have to close the kitchen window or my vent sucks delicious smoke back into the house :3 And it's flat and ｍａｇｎｅｔｉｃ luv ya vent buddy *the bad kind of sucking hard, not actual sucking which is a good thing for vents peanut fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Jan 17, 2020 |
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Jan 16, 2020 23:18
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Japan gets all the cool poo poo.
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Jan 17, 2020 00:09
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My outside vent was terrible until I went to clean the filter and found some one jammed a solid sheet of metal behind the filter.
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Jan 17, 2020 00:26
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I put a vent in the ceiling because my cabinets couldn’t handle a range hood There Is Always A Way
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Jan 17, 2020 00:27
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We may end up moving to a place that has a ton of houses with them, so someone give me the lowdown on wood foundations. I get that wood + water = rot but I'm trying to understand if there's a reason they'd be so commonplace in this area, other than cost or builder convenience.
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Jan 17, 2020 00:29
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Got the plumber out today to replace my clogged/failed sewer main. That's a 4" pipe that was somehow still draining.  
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Jan 17, 2020 00:37
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Wow
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Jan 17, 2020 00:59
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Flooring removal in progress:  
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Jan 17, 2020 02:59
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