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Snacks Redux posted:So I got my case and mobo yesterday and everything else today. My plan is to start my build after work but watching YouTube videos/my motherboard box has me worried about static. I definitely don’t want to brick anything. I planned on building it on my kitchen table (wood table, linoleum floors) and using the motherboard box to keep it off the table. Does that sound okay or are there any steps, besides buying the special straps, that I could take to avoid that? FWIW I think every PC i've built has been assembled with me standing on carpet in socks without any sort of static mitigation and I have never had an issue. Not saying that you should do that (It's basically the worst way to do it) or that it definitely won't happen, but it's a very low chance. If you're on wooden table, linoleum floor, and building on your motherboard box you're 99% of the way to fine.
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Jan 17, 2020 19:25
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Scruff McGruff posted:woof, for a router that old the ASUS will be fine. I would say it's time for you to consider upgrading the router even, I haven't seen a wireless g device in a while. Wireless N has been the standard for quite a while now, with wireless AC now being nearly as common and wireless AX devices finally starting to roll out at normal prices. You should really consider upgrading that, you're being limited to 54Mbps over wifi at most (and only on the 2.4Ghz band where you're much more likely to get interference from other devices) while a wireless N router can do 300Mbps and AC can do 1Gbps. Obviously if the speeds from your ISP don't exceed 54Mbps then it doesn't really matter but if you're paying for more than that you should take advantage of it. Cool, I just ordered the ASUS and it should be arriving on the same day as most of the other stuff. I'm going to contact Bell about upgrading our router, I did not realize that we were using ancient technology. I'm sure that they'll offer to do it for an extra $5/mth or something ridiculous. This has all been very stressful based on the amounts of money I'm tossing around, thanks for all the help so far guys!
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Jan 17, 2020 19:48
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Snacks Redux posted:So I got my case and mobo yesterday and everything else today. My plan is to start my build after work but watching YouTube videos/my motherboard box has me worried about static. I definitely don’t want to brick anything. I planned on building it on my kitchen table (wood table, linoleum floors) and using the motherboard box to keep it off the table. Does that sound okay or are there any steps, besides buying the special straps, that I could take to avoid that? Static is highly overrated as a potential danger while building a PC. You should take reasonable steps to avoid it -- I once had a pair of shoes that were amazing spark-generators on a wide range of surfaces -- but the wrist straps are silly for a home build. Even if you do have a bit of static charge on you, it's unlikely to zap a component unless there's a path to ground that runs through a chip. If you are doing the build in your kitchen, touch the faucet or metal sink hardware before you start. That's well grounded. Or the PSU thing Rexxed said. GutBomb posted:It can if you turn off “gear down mode” in the cpu/memory settings of your BIOS. God dammit that's been available since 2017, when I built my ryzen. And everything I've ever seen about the CAS rounding since then has never mentioned that.
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Jan 17, 2020 19:50
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Klyith posted:The Scythe Mugen is a giant heatsink, the only improvement from a noctua or bequiet is that those two companies have the best low-noise fans available. By contrast the scythe has a generic PWM fan that operates at the same RPM, but isn't as good as ones that noctua or bequiet put on their heatsinks. Given that quiet operation is more important to me than price, should I be looking at noctua or bequiet instead of the Scythe Mugen 5 PCGH Edition I currently have spec'd? Klyith posted:Static is highly overrated as a potential danger while building a PC. This I have found to be true. Klyith posted:If you are doing the build in your kitchen, touch the faucet or metal sink hardware before you start. That's well grounded. This may be less true now than you think, since copper pipes have largely been replaced by PEX, so it's a less reliable, er, touchpoint. Radiators used to be the go to when I was a kid, but who knows with those either now. The straps will work, provided you have properly earthed sockets, which it's my understanding isn't super common in the US, but the case of anything metal and electric in the kitchen is very likely to be earthed, like a toaster or an oven.
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Jan 17, 2020 20:30
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Don't build a computer in your socks, preferably don't do it on carpet, do the case thing for piece of mind, you'll be fine. There's no point in taking unnecessary risks but spend any time watching reviewers handle hardware and you'll realize they're pretty dang durable.
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Jan 17, 2020 20:36
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While I'm here, does anyone have a preference on brands for vesa monitor arms? I have an OK flexible wall mounted one now, but I'll need another and it'll need to carry a 32" display at full horizontal extension.
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Jan 17, 2020 20:56
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If you don't have any noncarpeted floor, take apart the cardboard box one of your components came in and stand on it. This has been a pro tip from some random dude who used to work at a local tech store like ten years ago when I asked him about static safety 
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Jan 17, 2020 21:20
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I’m starting to research parts for a new PC, and I’m sort of vacillating between going for mid-range parts or spending on something a little more upmarket. In particular, I’m thinking about going for a Ryzen 3900x over a 3600 because I’ve heard that the big 2020 releases from AMD will be in a new chipset, meaning I won’t be able to upgrade my CPU in the future, whereas I could grab a mid-range graphics card now and then upgrade to whatever the new mid-range is three years from now. However, I’m also thinking about whether I should just go for something lower cost overall, because realistically, while I do play FPS and strategy games on a 1080p monitor, I do most of my gaming on a home theater projector that will downsample it all to 720p anyways. I just want to be able to run the newest games at 60FPS. Also, is it a bad time to be building a machine in general? I’ve been seeing that the new Zen series is coming out soon?
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Jan 17, 2020 21:44
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Absolutely do not buy a 3900x if you are gaming at 1080p. That's an enormous waste of money. It's a pretty decent time to buy if you need or want to upgrade.
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Jan 17, 2020 21:46
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That’s what I needed to hear, thanks! What even is the new “standard” resolution these days? I know that 4k is a thing but that it’s a very high end thing right now. I keep seeing people reference 1440p? I do want to get a better monitor in the future, I’m interested in eventually getting a dual g-sync setup, but right now I just need a computer.
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Jan 17, 2020 21:51
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Thom P. Tiers posted:Absolutely do not buy a 3900x if you are gaming It’s likely going to be a long time before a 3900x offers any gaming performance boost over 3700x, and by that time it’s single-core performance will probably be pretty anemic. It doesn’t really matter what resolution you’re playing at, or even what refresh rate - single core performance is very close and no games can leverage the extra cores into significantly performance gains. While Zen 3 will come with a new chipset, nothing yet has suggested that it won’t also be backwards-compatible with existing chipsets. It’s possible, but I suspect AMD will continue backwards compatibility until desktop DDR5 (which isn’t going to be Zen 3).
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Jan 17, 2020 21:54
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Do you know what you are willing to spend? Personally right now, for 1440p gaming, I think a Ryzen 3600 and a 2070 Super (with 16GB of DDR4-3200 CL16) is the best buy. 1440p references a 2560x1440 resolution that usually runs at 144Hz+ (165 if you have GSync). The "standard" resolution is probably 1080p still for the majority of users, but in the gaming world a good chunk of people have moved towards 1440p and the current technology is pretty affordable to make it worthwhile as well. It looks great. EDIT: ^^ And yea I agree with stickman, I should have said the 3900x isn't worth it at all  Stickman knows all, listen to him.
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Jan 17, 2020 21:55
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That’s solid advice. Good 1440p/144Hz IPS GSync-compatible monitors regularly sell for as low as $300 right now. 4K is tougher - if you like cranking up settings in modern games you’d really need a super-expensive 2080 Ti, and high-refresh 4K is ridiculously expensive. If you don’t mind turning down settings and/or sticking to 60Hz, it’s still feasible with a 5700 XT / 2070 Super (or less, depending on how low you go with settings), and monitors are cheaper. I know some people swear by 60Hz 4K over high-refresh 1440p. Stickman fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Jan 17, 2020 |
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Jan 17, 2020 21:57
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Decided I want something a little nicer than the crappy AIO I've been using for the past 5 years. I want to put together something that can play the Halo stuff coming out for PC @ 1080p 60fps on medium settings (but am okay with going up higher on settings if I can-- I'm not a stickler.) My partner also would like to do some light video editing for YouTube vlogs. I'd like to stay in the $750 ballpark here if possible. I came up with this build based on thread recs. I guess I'm also pretty married to the smaller form factor this case offers. Going smaller on the case would be nice too, but this is a decent enough size I think. Also I'm in the US. I couldn't find an organic place to include that. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor Motherboard: Gigabyte B450M DS3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory Storage: *Silicon Power A55 512 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: *Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1660 Super 6 GB TUF GAMING OC Video Card Case: Fractal Design Focus G Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case Power Supply: EVGA GD (2019) 500 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter
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Jan 17, 2020 21:59
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Thom P. Tiers posted:Do you know what you are willing to spend? Personally right now, for 1440p gaming, I think a Ryzen 3600 and a 2070 Super (with 16GB of DDR4-3200 CL16) is the best buy. 1440p references a 2560x1440 resolution that usually runs at 144Hz+ (165 if you have GSync). I’m looking to spend under $1500, bearing in mind that I will be reusing SSDs from my current machine. Here’s what I’m looking at currently: GeForce GTX 1660 Super (I am interested in the 2070 Super as the performance increase seems pretty substantial) 2x8 GB DDR4 3600MHz RAM ASUS TUF Gaming X570 Motherboard EVGA SuperNOVA 650 watt PSU Ryzen 5 3600 And about $300 between the case, cables and peripherals to make my home network into something functional and organized.
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Jan 17, 2020 22:04
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Jaded Burnout posted:Given that quiet operation is more important to me than price, should I be looking at noctua or bequiet instead of the Scythe Mugen 5 PCGH Edition I currently have spec'd? If you have the extra dosh go for it, but it really isn't that big a difference. The awesome expensive fans that noctua & bequiet make are a few dB quieter than a decent generic fan. Setting up good custom curves for all the fans in your system is the biggest part of a quiet system. Most of the rest is the case, and fan brand is like the last 10%. We haven't heard back from the guy complaining about his mugen being loud, so I'm betting it was just running at full blast all the time. DACK FAYDEN posted:This has been a pro tip from some random dude who used to work at a local tech store like ten years ago when I asked him about static safety Industrial flooring is often super static-y for some reason. One place I worked as a computer janitor many years ago had plain sealed concrete floors, it gave me sparks big enough to really hurt. I wore a static strap there.
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Jan 17, 2020 22:14
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DACK FAYDEN posted:If you don't have any noncarpeted floor, take apart the cardboard box one of your components came in and stand on it. Don't do this with your case box though. Save that somewhere so that if you ever move or need to ship your computer or something you can pack it up with a box and packing materials designed for that case.
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Jan 17, 2020 22:45
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I always do that and also stuff all the component boxes in the case box in case of any returns or say you wanna upgrade your video card later and sell the used one on sa-mart. Also good idea for tv boxes if you have some space to stuff them.
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Jan 17, 2020 23:06
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We used to have a bunch of computers with Antec Sonata at work. When wearing suitable clothes I could charge myself sitting on my chair, then touch the USB port cover on the Antecs and reliably reboot the computers. I could never figure out how that was possible. The cover was just a chromed plastic part attached to the plastic case front. It had no electrical connection to the USB ports or any other part of the computer. I'd like someone to test how damaging static can be. For example, zap a RAM stick and test what it takes before it starts producing errors.
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Jan 17, 2020 23:12
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Been looking around at future upgrades, like the Ryzen and a new gfx card and all that. (for gaming) I noticed my current mobo accepts up to a i7-7700K. Looking for feedback if it's worth upgrading to that instead of a new mobo/ram etc. Current system: Core i5 6600K Gigabyte Z170X-Gaming 3 Rev 1.0 Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo Radeon RX 480 (want feedback on the CPU before I'd upgrade this) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2x8GB 2400mhz Thermaltake Smart 700W I'm OK running stuff at 1080p/60 fps Roman fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Jan 18, 2020 |
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Jan 18, 2020 01:59
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Recommendations for the cheapest 2TB NVME drive for gaming/multimedia work? It would be the primary drive.
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Jan 18, 2020 02:04
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Saukkis posted:We used to have a bunch of computers with Antec Sonata at work. When wearing suitable clothes I could charge myself sitting on my chair, then touch the USB port cover on the Antecs and reliably reboot the computers. I could never figure out how that was possible. The cover was just a chromed plastic part attached to the plastic case front. It had no electrical connection to the USB ports or any other part of the computer. If you're getting zapped, the electricity is getting from you to ground via some path. That path just had to cross the right/wrong thing and boom, restart.
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Jan 18, 2020 02:04
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space marine todd posted:Recommendations for the cheapest 2TB NVME drive for gaming/multimedia work? It would be the primary drive. Right now, HP ex950, but if it’s just gaming and multimedia save $30 and get an mx500 instead.
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Jan 18, 2020 02:17
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Roman posted:Been looking around at future upgrades, like the Ryzen and a new gfx card and all that. (for gaming) The problem with intel is that since they refuse to make anything work in the same socket as the previous generation, there are no deals on old CPUs. Anyone looking to sell a good CPU can charge more, or just sell the whole system. An i7-7700K is $350-400 used and that's a terrible deal. If you're ok running at 60fps, upgrade the video card and OC the CPU to within an inch of its life. Wacky Delly posted:If you're getting zapped, the electricity is getting from you to ground via some path. That path just had to cross the right/wrong thing and boom, restart. Yup, static electricity can go through / around non-conductive things. The spark goes through a little bit of air and air is a great insulator. So in that story the static charge was earthing in the USB port and thus into the mobo, causing it to reboot.
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Jan 18, 2020 02:33
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Mysticblade posted:Hi, with Windows 7 getting support dropped, I figured it was time I finally upgrade. Can't really make any excuses to put it off now. I helped someone else out in Aus a few weeks ago, so I'll just point you to my 1080p mATX wishlist on PC Case Gear, which would have similar prices to most other Aus retailers. It includes a 1TB SSD and 2TB HDD, and you can always carry over other HDDs you already have. Of course, it''s a bit over your budget, but there's plenty we can do! - You almost certainly have a 1080p 60hz monitor already, so we can eliminate that. We're down to ~AU$1550, almost at your budget already! - For just 1080p gaming, we can drop down to a Ryzen 5 2600 and cheaper mobo, which are already in your list there. We also use a cheap aftermarket cooler, as it will be both quieter and more efficient than the stock one. - We can also swap in slower memory that's already in your list (since it's all your mobo can support, though the difference would be minimal anyway) and probably a cheaper network card too, since you likely don't need Bluetooth. - Your case is also quite expensive. I've replaced it with a simple, windowless case that comes with two fans, runs quiet, and I've used before, though case choice is totally personal preference and up to you. - Looks like PCCG have a sale on one particular RX 590 model, like you said in another post, so maybe go for that? You're kinda right that graphics cards don't really get much good until you hit ~AU$400 or so, when the 1660S/Ti comes in to play. - On the other hand, I'd recommend you get a much more reliable power supply. I wouldn't touch anything less than a 80 Plus Gold rating. While I understand that power supplies are expensive right now, so would be replacing your whole rig if a cheap one fails catastrophically. If you're willing to part with $20, going up to the 650W in the same family will give you some headroom for later upgrades, like dropping in a Ryzen 5 3600X and a better graphics card. That leaves you with this cheaper 1080p mATX build coming in at a flat AU$1300 as of me writing this. Obviously you've stated that you don't want to use your whole budget, but just in case you did, put it into the graphics card, or even that monitor for my original list - especially for fast-paced games like Tekken 7, having a monitor with higher frame rate support will look fantastic and play much better. Coucho Marx fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Jan 18, 2020 |
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Jan 18, 2020 03:04
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Coucho Marx posted:especially for fast-paced games like Tekken 7, having a monitor with higher frame rate support will look fantastic and play much better. It's a fighting game - it's gonna be frame locked to 60 fps like any fighting game would be. There isn't any higher FPS for smoothness in games like tekken, it'd defeat the equal experience between players and play super fast or w/e.
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Jan 18, 2020 03:15
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The safest way to build is strip down completely naked on hardwood floors
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Jan 18, 2020 03:35
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Sniep posted:It's a fighting game - it's gonna be frame locked to 60 fps like any fighting game would be. There isn't any higher FPS for smoothness in games like tekken, it'd defeat the equal experience between players and play super fast or w/e. Well, then, you learn something new every day! In that case, all the other games will play better. And with a better PC, they'll have more options too!
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Jan 18, 2020 03:54
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Mu Zeta posted:The safest way to build is strip down completely naked on hardwood floors Cast a ring of salt about yeself, to ward off viruses.
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Jan 18, 2020 04:27
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So after a couple hours, I plugged the tower and monitor in and it took me to the boot menu. There was no horrible beep or error message and the fans on the CPU and case are all running. I still can’t seem to shake the feeling I did something wrong or forgot to plug something in. I had to watch about 4 different build videos and consult google a lot so I was honestly shocked when it booted up. Gonna try to install windows/drivers and check how everything is running. Thanks again guys. Glad I decided to build and save some dough.
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Jan 18, 2020 04:49
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Snacks Redux posted:So after a couple hours, I plugged the tower and monitor in and it took me to the boot menu. There was no horrible beep or error message and the fans on the CPU and case are all running. I still can’t seem to shake the feeling I did something wrong or forgot to plug something in. I think the same thing every time I do anything with the innards of my computer so I know how you feel. But if it's starting up you probably did fine. The parts are tougher than they seem.
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Jan 18, 2020 05:06
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Jaded Burnout posted:While I'm here, does anyone have a preference on brands for vesa monitor arms? I have an OK flexible wall mounted one now, but I'll need another and it'll need to carry a 32" display at full horizontal extension. Ergotron is the gold standard but costs a lot. I think amazon basics has rebranded them in the past. I've used some cheaper stands from amazon vendors like North Bayou that are solid but I can't vouch for their whole product line, I'd definitely go by reviews and look for any problems. The monitor thread probably has some opinions, too.
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Jan 18, 2020 05:08
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The Megathread FAQ pretty much answered my question on whether or not i should upgrade my aging system or build another one from scratch. I have an I3-2120, pretty sure it's Sandy bridge, and 8 gigs of ram on an aging motherboard, with the newest part being a Geforce 1060 GTX 3 GB. It's done it's job with flying colors over almost a decade but i think it's time for a new change of pace. I've been using Intel Processors for all my life, and I've always heard of AMD having some sort of problem, but that was like the early 2000s. At first I was thinking of just building around either an i5 or i7 of the newest gen, but I am hearing that the Ryzen Series is really good. I set my eyes on the Ryzen 5 3600, but what's this about a Ryzen 7 2700X? Is it just a better version of an older model? I'm looking for recommendations because I don't think this i3 has much life left. Fargin Icehole fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Jan 18, 2020 |
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Jan 18, 2020 06:45
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The 2700 is an 8 core/ 16 thread processor that can be had for less than $150 pretty easily. The 3600 is a 6 core / 12 thread processor on a newer architecture revision and process node, making it's cores 10-15% more powerful than those in the 2000 series. Right now 8 core CPUs don't offer much in the way of gaming benefits over 6 core, though some people fear that may change in the next couple years. The other processor to consider is the 2600, which is a 6 core that can be had for under $120 (or the 1600 AF revision, which is actually a 2600 as well, but for $85 - long story, good deal if you can find it). If you have a 60hz monitor the 2000 series will be plenty, they have lots of headroom and the extra cost for the 3000 series will never be worth any potential extra life. If you have a 144hz monitor the 3000 series processors will put you over 100+ fps on a lot of games the 2000 series can't.
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Jan 18, 2020 07:27
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Fargin Icehole posted:At first I was thinking of just building around either an i5 or i7 of the newest gen, but I am hearing that the Ryzen Series is really good. I set my eyes on the Ryzen 5 3600, but what's this about a Ryzen 7 2700X? Is it just a better version of an older model? As someone who faced this same choice and went with the 2700X, I wish I'd gotten the 3600. One thing to consider is the RAM speeds supported by your chosen motherboard. 3rd gen (like 3600) supported higher clock speeds on mine.
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Jan 18, 2020 14:35
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Just to be 100% sure: I am not supposed to connect both connectors of this motherboard cable (the 24 pin ATX) to the PSU, right? Just the bigger one.  The motherboard is a x570 Aorus Elite so if I'm not mistaken it doesn't require the smaller, 4 pin connector: 
Elman fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Jan 18, 2020 |
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Jan 18, 2020 15:59
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Elman posted:Just to be 100% sure: I am not supposed to connect both connectors of this motherboard cable (the 24 pin ATX) to the PSU, right? Just the bigger one. Both sides need to be plugged in to the PSU, and the mobo uses the full 24 pin connector. I don't know why they split them up like that, probably the whole second connector is going to the ground plane or something so it was easier to put them all together. Or maybe to have a definite PSU side and mobo side that can't be reversed. edit: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/blog/Explanation-of-RMi-New-Type-4-Cables Klyith fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Jan 18, 2020 |
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Jan 18, 2020 16:16
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Elman posted:Just to be 100% sure: I am not supposed to connect both connectors of this motherboard cable (the 24 pin ATX) to the PSU, right? Just the bigger one. Seems like you have a fancy PSU with a 28 pin outlet. Check your box for some sort of 28 pin to 24 pin converter.
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Jan 18, 2020 16:30
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This is what the manual says: I find it fairly confusing cause the 24 pin end that goes into the motherboard doesn't have a dettachable component. The dettachable part is the one that goes into the PSU. Sounds to me like I'm supposed to plug in both into the PSU but I'm definitely wary of messing something up that way.
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Jan 18, 2020 17:11
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Elman posted:This is what the manual says: Yes both ends go into the PSU, and the mobo end is just a plain 24 pin. Has nothing to do with 28 pin server stuff or whatnot. edit: And the detachable 4 pin thing on the mobo end may have some thin plastic you can break away to seperate 4 pins and make it a 20-pin ATX. Just in case someone buys a new high-end PSU to put into a computer from 2005. The extra pins on the PSU side are voltage sense wires that let the PSU detect voltage droop at the mobo end of the wire. Klyith fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Jan 18, 2020 |
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Jan 18, 2020 17:20
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