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the problem is that it's a BMW vehicle without plastic radiator end tanks. It's not in its natural environment. Cursed vehicle. It'll never be at peace.
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Dec 29, 2019 01:17
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Is it possible for an alarm to drain a battery? I was having issues with starting my Bonneville which persisted when I left it at a friend's place while in Europe for a month, and he reckoned it was an old battery so he got a new one put in. That was August and I've started having issues again. The alarm itself still works, ignition lights work, but I've had to jump start it. But as of today even jump starting it doesn't work. I don't ride it as much as I used to since I started working from home around August, and also semester ended here in November, but I'd say I still take it out at least once every week. Maybe every 10 days. That's not enough to let a battery die is it? edit - and no I don't have a multimeter
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Dec 31, 2019 05:19
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freebooter posted:Is it possible for an alarm to drain a battery? I was having issues with starting my Bonneville which persisted when I left it at a friend's place while in Europe for a month, and he reckoned it was an old battery so he got a new one put in. That was August and I've started having issues again. The alarm itself still works, ignition lights work, but I've had to jump start it. But as of today even jump starting it doesn't work. Get a multimeter? It certainly could be. It could also be something else. Without a multimeter we are all just dust in the wind, dude.
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Dec 31, 2019 06:44
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Yeah, get a multimeter. Then set it to current (milliamps) mode and, with the motorcycle off, disconnect the battery positive lead and connect the multimeter in its place. i.e. black lead on the battery terminal, red lead on the positive lead connected to the motorcycle. If you see any value that is not zero, then something is still drawing power while the bike is off. You can work out generally how long the battery will last in this state from your battery's reported capacity (in amp-hours) and the discharge rate. For instance, if something is drawing 20 milliamps and you have a 12 amp-hour battery, it will be fully depleted after 12/0.020 = 600 hours, 25 days, without charging.
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Dec 31, 2019 06:59
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I'll bet being a Bonneville it's something tastier than just the alarm butbuilds character posted:Get a multimeter? It certainly could be. It could also be something else. Without a multimeter we are all just dust in the wind, dude.
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Dec 31, 2019 08:34
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Do manufacturers other than Yamaha do the giant-loose-washer-between-the-grip-edge-and-throttle-body-housing thing? My MT-07 has it, and the XT250 at MSF had it, but I don't remember my GS500 having one (but that could either be PO fuckery or memory failure on my part). Anyway I got an Atlas throttle lock for Christmas, if I need a bit of extra clearance to install it can I remove that big throttle washer without dying horribly or whatever
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Jan 1, 2020 02:36
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I replaced the stator in my 05 KLR650 today with an aftermarket high output one (OEM one had a wiring repair that wasn't going to last forever, thanks to PO idiocy). I put everything back together, refilled with oil, and fired it back up - didn't have my multimeter handy, but noticed brightness of my Neutral light did vary a bit by RPM. Didn't really notice much of a difference in headlight though. Any cause for concern? Was about to take a 2-3 day ride. In related news, I *really* wish I had a shed with a lift. Tried to be careful but my back is killing me... ironically may wind up scrubbing the ride now if I'm not feeling better in the morning 
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Jan 1, 2020 09:09
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When attaching an accessory relay to switched power, the lead that gets attached to the bike’s switched power (I.e., license plate light, tail light) needs to go to a positive lead, right?
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Jan 5, 2020 21:00
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Yep.
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Jan 5, 2020 21:26
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Poop. Wish I hadn’t shrink wrapped every inch of the section of wiring that was labeled.
HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Jan 5, 2020 |
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Jan 5, 2020 21:47
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Diagnosis question: My bike (2014 FZ-09, Red, 9K miles, Pirelli Angel GTs, Chinese eBay Mirrors) has been exhibiting some surging and hesitating behavior at constant throttle. It doesn't happen that often (it's super unpredictable), and it's not super severe, but it's disconcerting and it makes me not trust it, ESPECIALLY at track days. It's been way more than like 3 or 4 different tanks of gas, and it seems like it happens less often at higher RPM ranges, but it does happen all over the tach. Internet doesn't help bc a lot if it is people complaining about the typical FZ behavior of snatchy throttle and whatnot, which this isn't. Any ideas?
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Jan 6, 2020 22:54
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Disable all the side stand and clutch interlocks and see if it goes away.
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Jan 6, 2020 23:03
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captainOrbital posted:Diagnosis question: My bike (2014 FZ-09, Red, 9K miles, Pirelli Angel GTs, Chinese eBay Mirrors) has been exhibiting some surging and hesitating behavior at constant throttle. It doesn't happen that often (it's super unpredictable), and it's not super severe, but it's disconcerting and it makes me not trust it, ESPECIALLY at track days. It's been way more than like 3 or 4 different tanks of gas, and it seems like it happens less often at higher RPM ranges, but it does happen all over the tach. Internet doesn't help bc a lot if it is people complaining about the typical FZ behavior of snatchy throttle and whatnot, which this isn't. I think it's probably either the mirrors or the red.
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Jan 6, 2020 23:14
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captainOrbital posted:Diagnosis question: My bike (2014 FZ-09, Red, 9K miles, Pirelli Angel GTs, Chinese eBay Mirrors) has been exhibiting some surging and hesitating behavior at constant throttle. It doesn't happen that often (it's super unpredictable), and it's not super severe, but it's disconcerting and it makes me not trust it, ESPECIALLY at track days. It's been way more than like 3 or 4 different tanks of gas, and it seems like it happens less often at higher RPM ranges, but it does happen all over the tach. Internet doesn't help bc a lot if it is people complaining about the typical FZ behavior of snatchy throttle and whatnot, which this isn't. Any mods to air, fuel, exhaust? Undo those, see if it improves.
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Jan 6, 2020 23:39
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Dirty injectors, vacuum leak, or intermittent misfire?
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Jan 6, 2020 23:57
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Or just improving rider skill making the factory lean hole really obvious.
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Jan 7, 2020 00:01
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captainOrbital posted:Diagnosis question: My bike (2014 FZ-09, Red, 9K miles, Pirelli Angel GTs, Chinese eBay Mirrors) has been exhibiting some surging and hesitating behavior at constant throttle. It doesn't happen that often (it's super unpredictable), and it's not super severe, but it's disconcerting and it makes me not trust it, ESPECIALLY at track days. It's been way more than like 3 or 4 different tanks of gas, and it seems like it happens less often at higher RPM ranges, but it does happen all over the tach. Internet doesn't help bc a lot if it is people complaining about the typical FZ behavior of snatchy throttle and whatnot, which this isn't. Try unplugging your TPS, cleaning the connector, and plugging it back in. There have been a handful of similar complaints on the FZ-09 forums and that seemed to fix them.
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Jan 7, 2020 02:11
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Noticed my chain has a tight spot in it now. How much of a difference between the loosest and the tightest part is ok before I have to replace the chain? Right now I'd say that there is an inch of slack in the tightest spot (which is to spec), but maybe 1.5 inches of slack on the loosest part. It can't reach to slap the swingarm on the bottom yet, but I assume eventually it'll either hop the sprocket or start hitting stuff...
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Jan 8, 2020 02:23
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Mirconium posted:Noticed my chain has a tight spot in it now. How much of a difference between the loosest and the tightest part is ok before I have to replace the chain? Right now I'd say that there is an inch of slack in the tightest spot (which is to spec), but maybe 1.5 inches of slack on the loosest part. It can't reach to slap the swingarm on the bottom yet, but I assume eventually it'll either hop the sprocket or start hitting stuff... That's fine and a pretty normal level of tight-spotness, when the tight:loose ratio gets to like 2.5:1 is when you start seeing problems.
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Jan 8, 2020 02:30
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Slavvy posted:That's fine and a pretty normal level of tight-spotness, when the tight:loose ratio gets to like 2.5:1 is when you start seeing problems. Good to know, ty!
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Jan 8, 2020 05:24
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How horrifying would it be to adapt gsxr 600 fairings to a sv650? I can see there are brackets like part# 94511-29G03 available, I assume all the lower mounts would have to be custom
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Jan 11, 2020 22:35
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A lot more horrifying than just getting some factory SV ones and bolting them on. This has some part numbers for you.
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Jan 11, 2020 22:45
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But that would make sense and be straightforward rather than insane and overcomplicated
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Jan 12, 2020 00:06
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 Am I reading this diagram right that the only thing the clutch switch does is allow you to start the bike in gear, and that if it's removed the bike will still start so long as it's in neutral? I hope so because tl;dr: I managed to destroy the clutch switch 
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Jan 18, 2020 19:05
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Renaissance Robot posted:
That's probably correct. I'm terrible at reading circuit diagrams but I think the symbol just below the letters R/B is a diode, so current can flow left to right on that line but not the other way
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Jan 18, 2020 19:22
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Renaissance Robot posted:
Correct, at least until your neutral sensor (which is I assume what they mean by "shift switch") also breaks. That's also the clearest and most readable circuit diagram (and most explicable wiring layout) I've ever seen on a bike. mewse posted:That's probably correct. I'm terrible at reading circuit diagrams but I think the symbol just below the letters R/B is a diode, so current can flow left to right on that line but not the other way It's quite a neat design - the coil side of the starter relay grounds through the switch, so if the switch is open (clutch pulled in) it goes via the neutral sensor, which is closed when the bike's in neutral. The diode stops current to the neutral sensor being able to get to ground via the clutch sensor switch (which would mean your neutral light, on the same leg, would come on every time you pulled in the clutch).
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Jan 18, 2020 19:35
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This discussion is making me realize my neutral switch might be broken because when I got my bike safetied it wouldn't start until we activated the clutch
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Jan 18, 2020 19:54
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goddamnedtwisto posted:That's also the clearest and most readable circuit diagram (and most explicable wiring layout) I've ever seen on a bike. Probably because it's 125 with nothing complicated on it, and also because that's just the circuit diagram. The wiring diagram is still the usual mess: 
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Jan 18, 2020 20:01
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captainOrbital posted:Diagnosis question: My bike (2014 FZ-09, Red, 9K miles, Pirelli Angel GTs, Chinese eBay Mirrors) has been exhibiting some surging and hesitating behavior at constant throttle. It doesn't happen that often (it's super unpredictable), and it's not super severe, but it's disconcerting and it makes me not trust it, ESPECIALLY at track days. It's been way more than like 3 or 4 different tanks of gas, and it seems like it happens less often at higher RPM ranges, but it does happen all over the tach. Internet doesn't help bc a lot if it is people complaining about the typical FZ behavior of snatchy throttle and whatnot, which this isn't. Weird behavior often gets solved with a new battery.
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Jan 18, 2020 20:51
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mewse posted:This discussion is making me realize my neutral switch might be broken because when I got my bike safetied it wouldn't start until we activated the clutch Check your manual, because some bikes won't start without the clutch in regardless of gear position. Does your neutral light come on?
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Jan 18, 2020 23:18
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Check your manual, because some bikes won't start without the clutch in regardless of gear position. Does your neutral light come on? Suzukis often need a clutch pull regardless of gearbox position, my bandit and sv were definitely like that anyway. Why they then also have a side stand switch anyway is a loving mystery.
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Jan 19, 2020 00:38
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Renaissance Robot posted:Am I reading this diagram right that the only thing the clutch switch does is allow you to start the bike in gear, and that if it's removed the bike will still start so long as it's in neutral? Yeah when i put new controls on my ex500 the new clutch lever's switch had differently sized spade terminals. in a fit of laziness i just took the old switch off the mangled lever and plugged it in and taped it to the clutch line. It thinks the clutch is perma-depressed and I can start it in gear. And if you factor in the fact that i have a battery tender for it, this technically makes my ninja a plugin hybrid. <ducks>
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Jan 19, 2020 05:46
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Jonny 290 posted:It thinks the clutch is perma-depressed The 2020est of bieks
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Jan 19, 2020 05:56
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On a completely different note, is there anything in particular I shouldn't use black moly lithium grease for? Specifically, is it suitable to use with wheel bearings?
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Jan 19, 2020 11:13
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Renaissance Robot posted:On a completely different note, is there anything in particular I shouldn't use black moly lithium grease for? Specifically, is it suitable to use with wheel bearings? This is a little out of my wheelhouse but afaik you can use it in wheel bearings if it's marked EP (extreme pressure), otherwise it'll just turn runny and disappear when the bearings get hot.
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Jan 19, 2020 22:32
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For anything to do with the wheels, brakes, tires and suspension, I would use what the manufacturer recommends or an equivalent. If a bearing seizes up you're going to have a real bad day. Use something that's specifically rated for bearings at least
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Jan 19, 2020 22:39
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What kind of bike are you even riding that it's got unsealed wheel bearings??
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Jan 19, 2020 22:46
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Not for injecting inside the actual bearings, just like, when you've got your wheels off and the handbook says "when you put this back together just slop lube on everything". Black moly is what I've got to hand and I just wanted to know if it'd hurt anything.
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Jan 19, 2020 23:04
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Oh, for that kind of general assembly grease yeah you can probably use whatever. I smear the axles with a can of red synthetic stuff that I've had for a decade and it seems fine.
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Jan 19, 2020 23:31
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| # ? May 16, 2024 19:54 |
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A tub of Bel Ray waterproof grease is about $10 and will last a long long time.
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Jan 20, 2020 17:27
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