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Edgar Allen Ho posted:EU4 tabletop could be really fun. Historical pike and shot and samurai but also Aztec tercios, 1600s muslim texans, renaissance’d steppe horde armies, and all the other crazy poo poo that shows up. That's kiiind of what I think we're gravitating towards. A setting more historical than say, Warhammer, yet open to some shenanigans. Maybe one "Fantasy as in 1560's samurai fighting 1490's Italians" version and one "Fantasy as in these landsknechts have Orc dobbelsoldners". The unifying point would be warfare that's roughly set between the Italian Wars and about the 30YW, with any Fantasy elements being less firebreathing dragons and more twists on historical subjects with a strong Renaissance theme.
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Jan 17, 2020 15:01
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Edgar Allen Ho posted:EU4 tabletop could be really fun. Historical pike and shot and samurai but also Aztec tercios, 1600s muslim texans, renaissance’d steppe horde armies, and all the other crazy poo poo that shows up. May I suggest: 
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Jan 17, 2020 15:57
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lilljonas posted:That's kiiind of what I think we're gravitating towards. A setting more historical than say, Warhammer, yet open to some shenanigans. Maybe one "Fantasy as in 1560's samurai fighting 1490's Italians" version and one "Fantasy as in these landsknechts have Orc dobbelsoldners". The unifying point would be warfare that's roughly set between the Italian Wars and about the 30YW, with any Fantasy elements being less firebreathing dragons and more twists on historical subjects with a strong Renaissance theme.
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Jan 17, 2020 16:00
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Arquinsiel posted:So imaginations vs a super low fantasy? Pretty much, yeah. Currently we’re looking at trying out Pike & Shot as a basis, once we have enough troops based.
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Jan 17, 2020 16:04
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Man I'd allowed myself to forget how utterly moronic Battlefront's content strategy is. I can buy a pdf on an app, but not anywhere else (So I can't read it on my laptop), but if I want to use their listbuilder I have to buy that content separately, which is only available in browser and not in an app I can use on my phone someone please explain to me why I shouldn't fly to new zealand and throw several bricks through battlefront's window, tia Acebuckeye13 fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Jan 19, 2020 |
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Jan 19, 2020 07:06
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It'd cost more than buying the PDF and the listbuilder.
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Jan 19, 2020 07:26
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Arquinsiel posted:It'd cost more than buying the PDF and the listbuilder. The brick would be more satisfying, though. Anyway, there's a 100 point mid-war tournament on Saturday I'm planning to go to in spite of A) not having played the new edition and B) not having played Flames at all in the past four years. Currently trying to decide between a balanced list with tanks, infantry, and artillery, or spamming as many T-34s and T-70s as I can cram into 100 points (16 and 4 if I have the math right, I believe). Thoughts?
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Jan 19, 2020 07:59
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Acebuckeye13 posted:The brick would be more satisfying, though. You can get away with tanks and guns but tanks is going to be pure suffering if you run into an infantry heavy list, in general play. Remember that infantry will not stay in a bad combat, and will be in front of the objective now, so you're relying on 1-3 swings (you'll be lucky if you can assault with more than that) with 5+ skill, since they don't have the infantry's extra attack, who can just shuffle back slightly and still be contesting. Conversely, artillery now makes infantry reroll saves on repeat barrages so get a template on them and laugh; either they get up and move, in which case your tanks can just hose them with MGs, or they don't and you assault the remaining three stands at some point. I've heard that the tournament meta is essentially an infinite amount of armoured cars and multiple platoons of marders/dianas, which is basically enough MGs to nibble down infantry and enough AT 12 to kill tanks. You might?? be meta-busting in that respect, since killing six shermans with marders is a ridiculously good trade, but killing 16 T-34s before you get shot to gently caress yourself is harder, and the T-34 essentially doesn't give a poo poo about armoured cars.
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Jan 19, 2020 11:58
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I played my 3rd game of Field of Glory Napoleonic (2nd edition) game today French 1813 Infantry corps for the 2nd time vs a British Peninsula army with my own army list for the first time. I was quite distracted for 2/3s of the game. I might write a battle report later with a lot more details and photos later. The French attacked in a Oblique angle that would make old 'Fred proud and destroyed my Guards and KGL division without too much loss (less than 10% compared to 30%). I learnt a hell of lot: Don't put redoubts in the flank, put them in the centre. Don't put rough terrain where I might want to walk. Redoubts are pretty useless except as impassible terrain. Put terrain in the opponents half off table. If putting a unit in a redoubt, you can't put the rest of the division anywhere else on the table because the unit is trapped there (WTF rules?? You can order the entire army about but put them in a redoubt, and they can't even get out with disorder?!?! I don't care if they got ordered to defend it to the death, the rest of the army obeys its commands, so they should too!), Veteran Superior Guard units CAN hold off 2 divisions...for 1 turn, maybe 2., But not 3. Not 3 barrels... My army idea is bad and I should feel bad about it and need to re-work it, but fortunately it's a borrowed army, so I don't need to re-base or re-paint). Question - if you base and paint your army, how do you change it afterwards?!?! I don't know how to stop a combined arms attack (there doesn't seem to be a way to do it). My deployment matched no plan beyond set up the army in a line which is stupid. You can't move backward as fast as the enemy can advance forward. Defending a normal hill is bad and if done should be a steep hill. Don't take the positional defence unless I have a dedicated artillery unit OR more than 1 hill because 1 hill to hide behind doesn't give any advantage to using reverse slope unless your division behind it is "special". I need more skilled division commanders. I CAN use more than 1 ADC at a time its not complicated, you don't have to "save" your ADC to allow a charge in the opponents turn because you will have them back at the end of your last turn. Light infantry is awesome and why wouldn't you form your entire army out of it. Deploy divisions in chequerboard fashion to fill gaps and allow units to move up by reforming from extended line to tactical. Cavalry can be formed up in column if you don't know where it's going to move. Leave a 2 stand gap between terrain unless it's in the opponents have, in which case it will cause more problems than if it was just next to each other. ***THE RULE BOOK REALLY NEED AN INDEX***. ALL rule books need an index! The tables for pre-battle should be in the appendix along with the other tables. The strong point rule doesn't help unless I have a village close to the middle of the table. A village used as a strong point is not a defensive move its an offensive one. M sure I put my name on the OUTSIDE of the rule books, so they don't wander off (which to be fair, happened before I had a chance to write my name on it). If the enemy army is leaving a division behind, it is not a reserve as such, it's an oblique attack. Units can cross a table in 2 turns (which is ANOTHER reason not take positional defence). It's better to move units in a brigade and not in single units. When deploying in a village DO NOT DEFEND IT just occupy it you will have more than enough time to move to defend it if needed. Put my reserve division IN reserve and off the table for the 1st 1-2 turns, if its centre deployed it will have time to catch up. Next time try an envelopment. If I have 3 units of cavalry and one is in reserve behind the infantry line, the corps commander can order it thought he needs to join in. SOMEONE (not me!) should write an FAQ on Napoleonic warfare or tell me where one is because I know a lot of other people have had these questions or conclusions already from 1797 onward!
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Jan 19, 2020 13:40
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Comstar posted:
Well it might not be the easy solution but mine is pretty much to just get more guys if I want to field something else.
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Jan 19, 2020 13:53
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Comstar posted:My army idea is bad and I should feel bad about it and need to re-work it, but fortunately it's a borrowed army, so I don't need to re-base or re-paint). Question - if you base and paint your army, how do you change it afterwards?!?!
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Jan 19, 2020 18:23
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Arquinsiel posted:Need some more detail on the problem here. It doesn't matter, I thought about it and all miniature games have that issue. The solution is to never paint anything.
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Jan 19, 2020 21:02
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Comstar posted:The solution is to Fixed this for you. I really like that we refuse to play with unbased or unpainted duders.
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Jan 19, 2020 21:21
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zokie posted:Fixed this for you. I really like that we refuse to play with unbased or unpainted duders. We've begun doing this too. Best thing I ever did to actually get stuff painted.
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Jan 19, 2020 22:16
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Fish and Chimps posted:We've begun doing this too. Best thing I ever did to actually get stuff painted. It makes sense to do test games and stuff with proxies or even just blank bases, to see if you enjoy a game or a period. I'd hate to be in the position where I didn't play AT ALL because I didn't have enough painted minis. On the other hand, once I have painted stuff, I'm not going to bring on an unpainted PaK40 just because my painted PaK36 won't cut it. I'll suffer like a dog, and then go home and paint that PaK40 a lot quicker afterwards.
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Jan 19, 2020 22:26
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Played at the League of Ancients vs Cameron's French and I'm using Richard's army one again. My own list. Battle report here that's got better formatting. Following their victory vs a surprise Russian assault, the Anglo-Portuguse army settled down for the night. However, Napoleon was dissatisfied with his erst awhile allies and decoded to send in his own troops once again. THIS time the French strategy would work...  The Allied army had moved further inland and deployed around the small village of Canoroa. With no French units detected by the Hussar's (who were drunk), the army deployed in a long line, with the British Guards unit on a hill to the left, the main British units on the road and the Portuguese sleeping in the village and fields to the right. The Militia unit dug themselves in and refused to leave, fearing a surprise Cossack Invasion At Night.  On the next morning, the Guard Division observed French units coming into view in the distance to the North. The army stood too, but insisted it must Brew Up Tea before the battle could start.  The main British division on the road got their tea ready. No French units in site.  The Portuguese units slept in.  The British Cavalry stayed in reserve and tried to get overt their drunkenness.  The French army deployed in the field, with the majority on the British left flank. An Conscript division full; of Élan raced forward, followed by the heavy French Artillery brigade.  The Guards division tried to move back to get close to the rest of the Allied army, but it was too late. The divisional commander decided to defend the hill. His orders HAD been to act as the armies reserve, but everyone forgot that when it was discovered that the army's pay book HAD BEEN STOLEN BY A FRENCH SPY! Later it was found to have been sold by accident by the army paymaster and everyone was quite embarrassed about it. This issue served to distract commanders at all levels until the last hour of the battle.  The French army moved far faster than any of the Allied side could believe! Only 20 minutes to cross the entire battlefield! This was faster than an Imperial Guard army from 40000 years in the future! The Allied corps commander was dumb founded at the speed of the French advance.  Over half the Allied army was out of position. The Impetuous British Cavalry was determined to attack the left flank of the French army, but found it had to go around the village of Canoroa and fields first. Instead, they should have remained as the armies reserve and bolstered the centre and right flank. But the Impetuous British Cavalry was never going to listen to any battle plan!  The French army baring down on the British Centre Division. French Heavy and Medium Artillery lead with Currissers behind.  The British Guards Regiment formed line and prepared to engage two French Divisions in musketry.  The British Guards Regiment took a beating, but held their heads high and fell back two paces. HUZZA!  In an effort to hold the line, the KGL regiment tried to flank the incoming Conscript Division. But they were out of position. If they were occupying the small village to their left, it would have complicated things for the French Divisional commander. Instead, they could only try to hold on till the Allied right flank had marched to attack.  The 1st (Vanguard) division formed tactical line with the Rifle unit flanking them. The 3rd Brigade in support.  Meanwhile, the British right flank SLOWLY moved to the attack. The Portuguese were still sleepy and found moving out of Canoroa and the muddy fields slowed them down to a crawl. The Militia brigade point-blank refused to leave their revetment and threatened to shoot the Division Commander! The Allied General was disgusted by the whole affair and could not believe it. This was against all the rules of warfare!  The British right flank moved to attempt to attack the oncoming French horde.  It failed! The 1st Brigade, 2nd Division was driven back and ran through clear to the other side of the supporting Heavy Dragoons.  A large hole had developed in the British line.  The hole widened when another Brigade was forced back by the firepower of the French Heavy Artillery. They could not withstand firepower of this magnitude.  Desperate to try to save the day, the Guards Regiment advanced and attempted to win a close range fire duel as the 2nd Brigade rallied. The Heavy Dragoons moved to a position to prepare for the French Currissers to charge.  On the Allied right flank, the Portuguese Division was almost in a position but still agonisingly slow. The British Hussars and Light Dragoons forced the French regiment into square, but were unable to do much else and the Portuguese infantry to far away to take advantage and were lacking in artillery support.  On the left flank, the KGL and Guards regiment started to waver. Units fell back and the French Conscripts advanced.  The decisive moment arrived. Two French Conscript units supported by heavy artillery charged the Foot Guards. The defensive fire checked and forced them to flee...but not rout. Completely unworried by their failed charge, they will still able to fire at short range, and routed the entire Guards and KGL division!!!!!  The Allied General was aghast and horrified. How could this happen?!??! French conscripts, being checked and forced back by disciplined veteran guard troops, stopped their retreat and were able to fire back and rout the disordered and wavering British and KGL infantry! THIS WAS IMPOSSIBLE!  No matter what the Allied Corps commander thought of the matter, his Guards and KGL had fled the field. The Portuguese division was still out of position. The Light Dragoons attempted a doomed charge to try and save the day but were routed by the French Currissers. With too many units now routed or wavering, the entire Allied army collapsed and retreated. ALLIED DEFEAT. The French attack was a perfect example of an attack on the Oblique line. A text book example perfectly executed. The Allies walked into it with their eyes closed. So many mistakes were made. So many mistakes. The reserve division is not IN reserve. It's deployed on the left flank. It's not deployed in the village it can use to anchor the flank. The division reserve is right behind the main unit, it should be in between both units and 4 inches (ca. 10 cm) further back. It can move up when needed. The unit on the hill should be behind the hill in a reverse slope and hidden until the enemy army is deployed. In FOGN you don't show your army list until it is all on table. The middle division needs its reserve brigade between them in chequer board fashion. The unit in the strong point village should be occupying it, not defending it. The strongpoint should, be in the opponents half or my army must be behind it. The redoubt needs to be 2 unit blocks apart and if nothing else forward of the strongpoint. The rough terrain should be further in the opponents half. The entire army should, be behind the strong point and redoubt. Having 2 redoubts AND a strongpoint will complicate matters for the enemy unless I then don't deploy my army behind it! A single cavalry unit is not a good reserve. I should have put the left and centre flanks behind the right flank and only fought on that side of the table. A smaller army needs a small area to fight in. Comstar fucked around with this message at 13:30 on Jan 20, 2020 |
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Jan 20, 2020 13:25
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Is FoT 3 a good ruleset for 6mm company level battles? 1 stand = 1 squad or 1 vehicle
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Jan 21, 2020 06:28
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goodness posted:Is FoT 3 a good ruleset for 6mm company level battles? 1 stand = 1 squad or 1 vehicle It's usually 1 stand = 1 platoon, but it has a dedicated page on the rulebook for conversion to 1 stand = 1 squad.
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Jan 21, 2020 08:00
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If you like CHARTS and CHARTS and referencing CHARTS. Comstar your batreps are great!
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Jan 21, 2020 08:03
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Cassa posted:Comstar your batreps are great! Thank you Goonsir. I can't think of a way to find to beat a combined arms attack. The French had their artillery blasting away next to an infantry brigade next to the cavalry brigade. I can't charge my infantry in because the cavalry will counter charge. I can't stand and shoot vs heavy artillery.
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Jan 21, 2020 14:28
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I've started on my Napoleonic Russians, and finally (mostly) settled on a painting scheme! Two quick question on basing though: I love the look of round bases ranked up in a square tray with cutouts, but where do get something like that? And should I use 20mm or 25mm round bases for 28mm figures? 25mm looks better and more stable, but I feel like 20mm will rank up nicer.
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Jan 21, 2020 15:55
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moths posted:I love the look of round bases ranked up in a square tray with cutouts, but where do get something like that? Google "sabot bases" and you'll get a lot of options. moths posted:And should I use 20mm or 25mm round bases for 28mm figures? 25mm looks better and more stable, but I feel like 20mm will rank up nicer. This depends on what rules you're using. It also depends on the figures - some 28mm figures with a wide marching step won't fit on a 20mm round base (but might on a 20mm square if they're slightly diagonal.) Personally I base my Napoleonics on individual 20mm square magnetic bases (Shogun Miniatures sells them) and then I put them onto 60mm x 40mm steel rectangles (Wargame Accessories), six to a base, which is a common standard that works for many Napoleonic rules sets. I can take them off and use them individually to represent skirmishers, or keep them on the rectangles for bigger games.
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Jan 21, 2020 16:02
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That's perfect, thanks! I wouldn't have come up with "sabot base" in a million years.
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Jan 21, 2020 16:07
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moths posted:I've started on my Napoleonic Russians, and finally (mostly) settled on a painting scheme! You want these, more specifically the close order sabots. Some "people" base on 25mm and put it in sabots with gaps/spacers between each base. It's horrible! I liked how we're base for SP2 until we're started experimenting with multibasing and squeezing down the frontage to 15mm per dude, which is still too wide in scale. Now 20mm looks like a skirmish line to me You marched elbow to elbow, because how are you going to march in a straight line if everyone keeps turning their heads to find their neighbour?
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Jan 21, 2020 16:17
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Oh those look really good. I might try making my own with a circle cutter and a dremel, but I'll probably go with those when it turns out to be too effort-intensive.
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Jan 21, 2020 16:49
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JcDent posted:It's usually 1 stand = 1 platoon, but it has a dedicated page on the rulebook for conversion to 1 stand = 1 squad. Awesome. 1 platoon per stand is a bit too abstract for me so I will check that out.
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Jan 21, 2020 17:42
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moths posted:I've started on my Napoleonic Russians, and finally (mostly) settled on a painting scheme! The only time you should ever consider using a 25mm base for napoleonics, IMHO, is if you have skirmishers with very wide poses that are difficult to fit on 20mm, or if you want a leader for said skirmishers to stand out a bit. For example, Victrix has a few kneeling poses that would be pretty much impossible to fit on 20mm round bases. Ranked troops on 25mm bases will be much too dispersed to look like napoleonic units. They would rank up elbow to elbow, after all. I use 15mm frontage for multi-basing, but 20mm for single mini basing as it's pretty much impossible to do 15mm round bases. E: these are Warlord with 15mm frontage. Looking nice and tight there, gentlemen!  These are on 20mm single bases. Look at all that space between them, but 15mm would have been difficult on sabot basing:   lilljonas fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Jan 21, 2020 |
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Jan 21, 2020 17:50
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I'm pretty sold on (US) pennies at this point, the figures I have seem like they'd be a good fit and with a 3/4" cutter I should be able to make all the Sabot bases I'll ever need. From what I've read, British pennies are a little better, but the one extra mm doesn't seem like it'd be worth hunting them down (I'm in the US.) E: Those are gorgeous!
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Jan 21, 2020 18:12
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moths posted:I'm pretty sold on (US) pennies at this point, the figures I have seem like they'd be a good fit and with a 3/4" cutter I should be able to make all the Sabot bases I'll ever need. Thanks! We have a bunch of Russians on the blog if you haven't checked them out before, for inspiration: https://krigetkommer.weebly.com/napoleonics-blog
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Jan 21, 2020 18:33
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Thanks for that link! And you just saved me from making a very silly mistake. The Perry insert gives these instructions:  I had read the color coding on the bottom left as the flat top of the shako. That certainly would have looked interesting en mass.
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Jan 21, 2020 19:58
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moths posted:
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Jan 21, 2020 20:17
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What are your favorite Wild West skirmish rules? I'm going to be moving into a house that will finally allow for a wargaming table and I've always wanted to print up a bunch of Whitewash City buildings and do my own little spaghetti westerns.
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Jan 21, 2020 21:39
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I really like Legends of the Old West, but it's super out of print. I've heard good things about Dead Man's Hand, though.
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Jan 21, 2020 21:57
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There are also zero plastic western miniatures, which is a real bummer. I was able to keep my Frostgrave purchases to like $1 per mini because of Wrath of Kings being dirt cheap and the North Star boxes, but I think I'm gonna have to pay for metal for this particular pipe dream.
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Jan 21, 2020 21:59
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Lumbermouth posted:What are your favorite Wild West skirmish rules? There are several good games: Dead Man's Hand. Fistful of Lead. Dracula's America also covers wild west shootouts, but with fantasy elements added.
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Jan 21, 2020 22:04
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My group has been playing Dracula’s America. You can play it with or without the supernatural stuff. It’s very similar to Frostgrave but plays even faster since there aren’t a bunch of spells to deal with. I like it. You really only need like 6-8 models per side. I’d also highly recommend Black Scorpion miniatures. They’re not cheap but they are extremely well made and look awesome painted. I’m on my phone atm but if you look at my post history in this thread you can see some of them that I posted a month or so ago.
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Jan 22, 2020 00:16
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Lumbermouth posted:There are also zero plastic western miniatures, which is a real bummer. I was able to keep my Frostgrave purchases to like $1 per mini because of Wrath of Kings being dirt cheap and the North Star boxes, but I think I'm gonna have to pay for metal for this particular pipe dream. Wrong! https://www.blackscorpionminiatures.com/index.php?cPath=28&osCsid=k1uqcvfqgj2iffuin7fcnkmpo7
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Jan 22, 2020 00:51
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I'm putting together a bunch of Eastern Front boards for a Bolt Action event I'm running later this Spring so I've been scraping up any terrain I can on the cheap. I saw somewhere that Pegasus Hobbies 1:72 buildings are passable for 28mm miniatures so I picked up a couple sets since they were like $6 each. Despite being all ostensibly the same scale there are some, uh, major size differences between individual buildings:  I assembled the one on the right first and was patting myself on the back for getting such a good deal for a nice building that looks pretty close to 28mm. The middle one had me doubting my decision. Leftmost one had me chuckling, it's like a quarter of the size of the one on the right. The building mostly out-of-frame on the left is an actual 28mm cabin. Ah well, win some, lose some.
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Jan 22, 2020 01:46
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As long as you space them out on a table I don't think it'll matter and, to be fair, real life buildings are all different sizes.
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Jan 22, 2020 02:43
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They do look approximately the right size relative to each other at least, it's just that one is a shack and the other is a decent cottage with a second floor/attic. I should assemble these free Germans I got with Wargames Illustrated at some point, so I can do a lineup of 15mm to 28mm mans and people can see the actual difference at each step.
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Jan 22, 2020 03:51
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