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jarlywarly posted:I wonder how IBIS would play with in lens IS do they complement or are you best to turn one off? I believe lens and body stabilization are generally combined when both are present, as lens IS tends to be better in some situations, and body IS tends to have more stabilization axes (e.g. 5 vs 3). Specifics depend on the system, but generally when both are present the 5 stabilization axes will be split between body/lens, e.g. lens might handle 2 axes (pitch/yaw) and the body handles the remaining 3 (x/y/roll).
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# ? Jan 15, 2020 18:18 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 21:41 |
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Martytoof posted:That’s actually my question while I wait for my Sony 24-105 to arrive in the mail. Both the A7iii body and the lens offer stabilization. If I leave both on will they complement each other or will it cause a rift in time and space? Both you and the camera explode
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# ? Jan 15, 2020 20:03 |
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That’s going to make for a heckuva shaky photo
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# ? Jan 15, 2020 20:12 |
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Martytoof posted:That’s going to make for a heckuva shaky photo That's what the IBIS/IS is for, dingus.
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# ? Jan 15, 2020 20:13 |
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I'm planning to go on a whale watching cruise and want to rent a zoom lens to take pictures of whales. (I have no experience with lens renting but it sounds like a smart idea) I have a Z6 and F-to-Z adapter. Does anyone have recommendations for what lens I could rent and from where? Thanks!
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# ? Jan 18, 2020 20:08 |
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Lens renting owns. LensRental and Borrowlenses are seemingly always offering 15% off or close to that for mailing list subscribers.
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# ? Jan 18, 2020 20:32 |
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Sperglord posted:I'm planning to go on a whale watching cruise and want to rent a zoom lens to take pictures of whales. (I have no experience with lens renting but it sounds like a smart idea) Regarding what lens, you'll probably want something hand-holdable. Even if tripods are allowed (you may want to check) they aren't going to be as helpful on a deck that's moving around. I don't know the Nikon stuff but probably whatever's closest to the Canon 100-400. You could probably ask your tour operator what people seem happy with. They can probably tell you if you are likely to have whales breaching 40 feet from the boat or a quarter-mile away...
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# ? Jan 18, 2020 22:12 |
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The one time I went whale watching in California. There's a certain distance they have to stop from the whales. Then it's up to the whale if it wants to approach the boat. So mostly the whale will be a distance away and not right up next to you.
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# ? Jan 18, 2020 22:50 |
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And LensRentals.com is awesome.
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# ? Jan 18, 2020 23:03 |
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It's hard to use them a lot though, because if you look at the price of having a lens for a week and you think about doing that more than twice you inevitably start to think about if you'd just hung on to that money it would be a serious dent in paying for your own lens.
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# ? Jan 18, 2020 23:08 |
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Whale watching can be hard depending on the boat you're in. You get closer on smaller boats but bigger boats give you a more stable platform. I found a monopod to be incredibly useful on my Safari as well as my whale watching trip. When you see animals, the boats usually stop and turn off the engines. Have your settings figured out before the whales come. It's not like they're hanging out above the water very long. A 200mm equivalent lens or longer is nice to have. I wouldn't worry too much about a super fast lens as you should have more than enough light available. Maybe bring a circular polarizer to cut water glare. I don't think I ever got wider than 50mm on my A7iii. I mostly used a Canon 70-200 2.8. A lot of people had much longer lenses.
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# ? Jan 19, 2020 00:16 |
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One approach might be to rent a high MP camera and a 70-200. What reach doesn’t get you, cropping in can.
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# ? Jan 19, 2020 00:22 |
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Sperglord posted:I'm planning to go on a whale watching cruise and want to rent a zoom lens to take pictures of whales. (I have no experience with lens renting but it sounds like a smart idea) The 80-400 is relatively small and I really like mine. I actually bought it from Lensrentals used lens store. The 200-500 is bigger and possibly better quality but with 200 at the short end I don't know if it'd be too long if you were in a small boat and got close? It's a very cheap rental though. If you wanna pony up more money there are other fancier options too.
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# ? Jan 19, 2020 00:28 |
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I have been whale watching a couple of times recently and used my 70-200 both with and without a 2x extender. Every whale shot I took could have benefitted from some more reach. Even in case of a breach (which we haven’t seen yet), I can’t imagine zooming out to 140 wouldn’t have been wide enough. Laws vary (as does adherence to them), but here it’s at least 200 yards from orcas. That’s really far away. Stability is an issue. On a small boat in a bit rougher water I missed most of the best action because I couldn’t keep poo poo in frame. Enjoy a completely whiffed shot of an orca poking its head up. tk fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Jan 19, 2020 |
# ? Jan 19, 2020 03:46 |
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I didn’t nail a single whale breach with a 200-500 on a similar trip.
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# ? Jan 19, 2020 04:01 |
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Thanks for the responses, it sounds likes I need something in the range of 100-400. Looking at lens rentals, that gives some for ~$100: Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 -> lighter-weight and constant apeture Sigma 150-600 f/5 - 6.3 -> sport so slightly more weather sealed, but heavier Sigma 50-500 f/4.5 - 6.3 Nikon 80-400 f/4.6 -5.6 Does anyone know if any of these work with the F-to-Z converter and autofocus? Would I want more on the far end or near end? tk - I like that picture.
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# ? Jan 19, 2020 19:41 |
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I have the 80-400 with the FTZ adapter and it works fine. It’s also a lot lot smaller than the 200-500 (which should also be fine with the FTZ adapter.) I don’t know how the sigmas are with the adapter right now.
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# ? Jan 19, 2020 19:47 |
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Just got an odd useful thing for myself that others might find interesting. These are eyepiece correctors for my Minolta X570. The box is labelled as a No.6 which is -1 correction but the seller has thrown in 3 different ones. Their labelled 6, an 8 (-3) and one with no markings. I switched back to glasses from contacts and am a -3 myself so that's a bit of luck on my side to get the exact one I need. I'm a bit of an accessory collector for Minolta stuff so dropping $5 on something I might use was easy, but now I've got the exact one I need they'll definitely get used. Megabound fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Jan 20, 2020 |
# ? Jan 20, 2020 02:10 |
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Megabound posted:Just got an odd useful thing for myself that others might find interesting. Guessing this was before adjustable diopters in the viewfinders were a thing? Or were these to solve a slightly different issue?
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# ? Jan 21, 2020 15:16 |
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ReverendHammer posted:Guessing this was before adjustable diopters in the viewfinders were a thing? Or were these to solve a slightly different issue? Built in diopters usually can only go up a slight amount on older cameras so anything beyond the limit you need correction adapters. For instance my Minolta a7 can go to a max -2 so for someone who needs a -3 they would need to set the built in diopter to -2 and then use a -1 adapter.
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# ? Jan 21, 2020 15:24 |
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ReverendHammer posted:Guessing this was before adjustable diopters in the viewfinders were a thing? Or were these to solve a slightly different issue? Yeah, no such thing as adjustable diopters on Minoltas of that vintage. To my knowledge none of their manual focus bodies had that feature.
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# ? Jan 21, 2020 15:25 |
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Does anyone have any recommendations or advice in what to look for in a video tripod? I need one for doing some interview work for our department, but also I have a janky rear end lab video setup that's real unwieldy on my regular photo tripod, and that's unbalanced as hell on my regular photo tripod. It seems like everything's advertised the same way. Are leg spacers important?
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# ? Jan 21, 2020 16:12 |
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What’s your budget, how big of camera, and are you doing and tilts/pans, or is it just something you need to lock off? What’s your budget? The bare minimum thing I’d want is a leveler half ball. Doesn’t have to have a spreader, both of my video tripods work fine without one and one of them can’t even attach it.
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# ? Jan 21, 2020 17:33 |
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About $300, I've dealt with enough super cheap video tripods to not want to deal with them anymore. Camera + gear won't ever exceed about 12-15 pounds since I'm using either an XH1 or GH5 in the cage as the base. I don't need to do tilt/pans now, but I would like something that can do them decently enough for later b roll work.
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# ? Jan 21, 2020 17:52 |
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I feel like fluid heads get pretty expensive before they’re any good, but it’s also my job so I might be over demanding. This is a pretty good less expensive set that I’ve liked: https://www.lensauthority.com/products/sachtler-ace-m-fluid-head-with-2-stage-aluminum-tripod-mid-level-spreader Seems like a lot of people like Benro for less expensive video tripods.
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# ? Jan 21, 2020 19:49 |
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Built in diopters usually can only go up a slight amount on older cameras so anything beyond the limit you need correction adapters. For instance my Minolta a7 can go to a max -2 so for someone who needs a -3 they would need to set the built in diopter to -2 and then use a -1 adapter. President Beep posted:Yeah, no such thing as adjustable diopters on Minoltas of that vintage. To my knowledge none of their manual focus bodies had that feature. Ahhhhh... I never noticed something like that on the Pentax/Minolta cameras I've used. But even with me and my terrible vision (glasses for near sightedness) I never felt like I had problems with clearly seeing through the viewfinder. So I genuinely had no clue such things existed to solve for that. Camera history lesson!
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# ? Jan 22, 2020 03:16 |
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I have this head by Benro with their 3 section carbon fibre legs and it's good. the legs are lightweight, pack up small, but sturdy. The head is easy to set, doesn't sag or creep when you lock it. Came in at around $300 all in.
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# ? Jan 22, 2020 04:41 |
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I spoke to more folks and tried stuff out at the camera store and went with a Benro S6 head + leveler with aluminum legs and it's working great. I need a lot of practice working the fluid head but my b roll is already way, way smoother.
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# ? Jan 23, 2020 04:46 |
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So guess who just bought an Olympus M5 II hybrid camera ? Thanks a lot to this thread for the advice ! Now onto the fun part to understanding how all of this works Any recommended resources and/or tutorials, other than wildly googling around? The package came with a 14-150 mm lens - apparently not the best for image quality, but I needed something versatile for traveling and it was on sale. Any recommended lenses I should put on my wish list for the future? Also, kind of a related question: I will soon be backpacking around Asia for a few months, so naturally I wanted to put my new toy to good use. What would be a good backup solution? I'm kind of wary of lugging around a laptop and external HDD, but I'm not confident either in just sending back my full SD cards by mail... Thoughts on this? Thanks again!
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# ? Jan 24, 2020 15:35 |
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Chikimiki posted:So guess who just bought an Olympus M5 II hybrid camera ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Na5D0VFI1AQ
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# ? Jan 24, 2020 16:07 |
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Thanks, that's a surprisingly well done tutorial! Very very helpful
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# ? Jan 26, 2020 14:36 |
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Chikimiki posted:Thanks, that's a surprisingly well done tutorial! Very very helpful The Northrups are pretty divisive in the PhotoTube community, but this kind of instructional thing they do very well.
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# ? Jan 26, 2020 19:42 |
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Having an internal debate on whether or not to get a Gorillapod 3K for travel. I quite literally don’t do any tripod-setup photography abroad, but I would love a small compact tabletop that I can put on a wall, table, or wrap around a branch to get okay night shots or long exposures and the like. Only hesitation is that it looks a little large and if I’m going to try to fit it into my 10L Peak messenger then at that size I might just go with an actual tripod instead, even though I’d expect it to get no use. If it had like.. three less nubs per foot I think it would be the perfect size. My a7iii with 24-105 would total somewhere around 3lbs which puts it out of the 1K’s weight limit, though I don’t know how set in stone that limit is.
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# ? Jan 29, 2020 21:29 |
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I have a 5k and really enjoy having it, even given its limitations. But if you're going to be in spots with poles or you want to be 8 inches off the ground it's pretty fantastic. Cramming it into a 10L will definitely be an issue, it'll still be infinitely easier to tote around than a full size tripod. As for weight, in my experience they don't lie. If you go over the advertised weight limit you will get horrible sag. Fun trick for hiking: if you are out with multiple people you can borrow one of their trekking poles and use yours to build a tripod you can wrap the legs of the gorillapod around. Kinda janky but if weight is a huge concern it's doable.
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# ? Jan 29, 2020 21:44 |
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Martytoof posted:Having an internal debate on whether or not to get a Gorillapod 3K for travel. I quite literally don’t do any tripod-setup photography abroad, but I would love a small compact tabletop that I can put on a wall, table, or wrap around a branch to get okay night shots or long exposures and the like. The nice thing about the Gorillapod design is that a razor saw and some rubber cement or epoxy will fix that size issue right up for you.
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# ? Jan 29, 2020 21:44 |
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Oh gross, the 3K doesn’t come with an arca-compatible mount in the year of our lord two thousand and twenty. I guess I can do the 3K body only and order a low profile ball head off Amazon. What I’ll do is probably check one out in-store and decide then. Alternately just wait until I’m in Japan and buy one there if I really really need it.
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# ? Jan 29, 2020 22:05 |
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Right, the arca compatibility is a PRO FEATURE restricted to the 5k ballhead.
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# ? Jan 29, 2020 22:19 |
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Oh that’s so chintzy it hurts E: Fondled one at the LCS and ended up picking up the body only. Will find a sufficiently cheap ball head to hold up ~3lbs which will, hopefully, not set me back a fortune. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Jan 30, 2020 |
# ? Jan 29, 2020 23:37 |
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Chikimiki posted:
Quoting myself because I'm still hesitating on what to do... I basically need something to do local backups, and upload them to the ~cloud~ for redundancy. Maybe some editing if I can be bothered. Is anyone else used to traveling with camera equipment for a long time, and may have a few tips ready? Currently considering the following options:
2. Use an external HDD with an integrated SD card reader; could be a good compromise, but it doesn't seem easy for uploading pics to the web. 3. Use my current smartphone as an SD card reader, and upload everything to the net. Cheapest option, but lacks a local backup. Also pretty slow, going from experience. 4. Buy SD cards on the go and send them back home when full. Easy solution, but doesn't seem to be the most reliable. Thanks in advance!
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# ? Feb 4, 2020 11:13 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 21:41 |
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Chikimiki posted:Quoting myself because I'm still hesitating on what to do... I basically need something to do local backups, and upload them to the ~cloud~ for redundancy. Maybe some editing if I can be bothered. Is anyone else used to traveling with camera equipment for a long time, and may have a few tips ready? My honest opinion is take a phone for social pics, any camera gear you are going to be carrying that's worth the hassle over a good phone camera (recent model iPhone/Pixel etc) you are going to want to edit the photos back at home on a monitor. this is what I did when I went to New Zealand, carried my Pixel phone for social media stuff and my DSLR with telephoto for the "real photography" shots backed up the SD Cards to a HDD and then edited/published once back at home. If I thought a RAW was a "cannot lose at all costs" shot I uploaded to my dropbox via my Phone. I found the most useful gear was Camera bag with rain shield. A good USB powerpack. Portable mini HDD with SD Reader. USB host cable for my phone. USB SD Card Reader.
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# ? Feb 4, 2020 12:25 |